Should I Man Up?
- Thread starter Brian757
- Start date
Brian757
New member
So from what I gather, it seems that the eBay order is overkill with the replacement parts? So, should I attempt this instead? Or is it too little? I guess i would only need the power steering, alternator and AC belts.
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=180651555010
Let me know!
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=180651555010
Let me know!
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mikebontoft
New member
how do your belts look anyway? Usually you don't change them but they have to come off anyway...
TheDurk
Elite Member
The OEM Aisin pump never had a paper gasket. The original just had a groove and used FIPG. Then they switched to a metal/rubber gasket that does fine with no sealant at all If you have a paper gasket, you are using the wrong pump.
mikebontoft
New member
You make a very good point for the OP as well. Check out the difference between the gasket included with the GMB pump in the second link to the Aisin posted in the first link. Metal/rubber combo vs paper.
Either way, my point of using weatherstrip adhesive was that it makes it much easier to line up the gasket and not have to worry about it dropping out of place during installation. It is NOT meant to be used as a sealant.
TheDurk
Elite Member
Well, you can do it your way. I don't think there is a need for the 'yellow snot' because there are three studs and two alignment dowels on there so this particular gasket stays where it is supposed to without having to use gunk that might get into the system. That's why they stopped using FIPG--it caused problems when people used too much.
Also, as to the using your own marks thing--how do you know that the guy who put the belt on wasn't off by a tooth when he did it or that it was starting to stretch and jumped one all by itself? Or the crank pulley is loose and starting to shear the key? I've only done three of these, but I checked the metal marks before I took the belts off and all were spot on so no need for my own marks. I use the belt marks on the new belt as a convenience to help you get the hard marks right the first time, in my opinion, but the hard marks are the gold standard. If the metal marks were off at the beginning I would take a hard look at why rather than just repeat it that way.
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Forrrrest
New member
You might get a pm in a year or so, or how ever long it takes to drive 10000 miles
Ahhhaha no problem! I'm always down to help a fellow yota guy out. Speaking of wanna help me swap my clutch and throw on my lift tomorrow!?!
?! Ha OP I'd change the belts because you're in there and there is more room to work. Plus who onows when the last time they were changed. I tend to fo over board sometimes on maintenance. But hey I like my stuff running prime!
mikebontoft
New member
[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] I didn't notice there were dowels and studs on that one. Definitely no need for the gorilla snot on that gasket. I used the water pump as the first thing I thought of. A lot of engines do have paper gaskets and nothing to really line them up. It works for plenty of other gaskets though. Just be smart about it.
As for concerns about making your own marks... Again you have to be smart about it. If you are willing to go this deep into your engine, you should be able to notice if it starts to run rough. If it's for a customer, ask if they have noticed a drop in mileage or power. An engine a tooth off is going to run like crap. If you bought it that way and suspect it was done wrong, check the timing... otherwise if it's just routine maintenance, marking the engine ensures that you don't end up off and it saves time.
As for the crank pulley, hopefully you know to remove that first before marking the gear. You have a point to check the keyway and pulley for any looseness or signs of wear.
Sometimes if you have to set the timing, the marks aren't very clear. Fortunately Toyota does seem to be pretty good about that. Unfortunately for me, when I was rebuilding my engine I didn't know how it ran (junkyard motor) so I set it to the factory marks. The dimple on the crank gear looked like the timing mark on the opposite side. I consulted someone else and the diagram, but we had a disagreement over which was the mark. I should have gone with the one I was going to use as it ended up 180 out. No big deal though.
I don't mind the debate by the way. I know I've only been doing this for about 3-4 years so I'm a n00b, but I have done at least 20 timing belt jobs that I can think of.
As for concerns about making your own marks... Again you have to be smart about it. If you are willing to go this deep into your engine, you should be able to notice if it starts to run rough. If it's for a customer, ask if they have noticed a drop in mileage or power. An engine a tooth off is going to run like crap. If you bought it that way and suspect it was done wrong, check the timing... otherwise if it's just routine maintenance, marking the engine ensures that you don't end up off and it saves time.
As for the crank pulley, hopefully you know to remove that first before marking the gear. You have a point to check the keyway and pulley for any looseness or signs of wear.
Sometimes if you have to set the timing, the marks aren't very clear. Fortunately Toyota does seem to be pretty good about that. Unfortunately for me, when I was rebuilding my engine I didn't know how it ran (junkyard motor) so I set it to the factory marks. The dimple on the crank gear looked like the timing mark on the opposite side. I consulted someone else and the diagram, but we had a disagreement over which was the mark. I should have gone with the one I was going to use as it ended up 180 out. No big deal though.
I don't mind the debate by the way. I know I've only been doing this for about 3-4 years so I'm a n00b, but I have done at least 20 timing belt jobs that I can think of.
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TheDurk
Elite Member
Ok, fair answer. I think things are clearer now for those reading the thread. I thought you were saying to ignore factory marks on the motor and leave timing the way you found it as a general principle. Glad to hear that is not the case and you were just trying to suggest a shortcut. We can agree the marks can be confusing, but they are not going to be wrong. Worth clearing up. I would not button up an engine without confirming the hard marks, however. I don't do this for money, so I double check everything. I'm related to all my 'customers.'
Likewise, worth clearing up that this WP gasket has no need of sealant.
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Diagram14
New member
I vote man up. The only marks that matter are the ones that come from Toyota. Those would be the ones on the pulleys and their corresponding alignment marks. Line those up, place your t-belt, and spin the crank twice (the cam pulleys are twice the size of the crank) while hold some tention on the belt with a free finger. If your pulley marks (only the pulley marks, disregard the marks on the t-belt) all line up agian "its a bingo!," just pop the tensioner and reassemble.
On this motor, being non-interference, the only thing that will mess up your timing is a misalignment of the "timing"-belt. When you line up the crank pulley marks your #1 is at TDC. Then the marks on your cam pulleys will make turn that into the compression stroke when aligned. Spin them however you feel necessary beforehand, it makes no difference.
Toyota made this one so even I could understand it. Wrench on...
On this motor, being non-interference, the only thing that will mess up your timing is a misalignment of the "timing"-belt. When you line up the crank pulley marks your #1 is at TDC. Then the marks on your cam pulleys will make turn that into the compression stroke when aligned. Spin them however you feel necessary beforehand, it makes no difference.
Toyota made this one so even I could understand it. Wrench on...
mikebontoft
New member
Oh yeah definitely not... that would be ignorant. lol. Well I thought I made that explanation but looking back at it, it's not as clear as I thought it was. Don't hate on my late night cell phone posts haha.
TheDurk
Elite Member
No hate involved. I appreciate the contribution. I was just trying to help the other readers who haven't done this job.
mikebontoft
New member
I know. Just joking anyway 
. And so am I, but I do lack a good explanation for my reasoning sometimes.
. And so am I, but I do lack a good explanation for my reasoning sometimes.
Brian757
New member
Ok, so now I am back to thinking I will purchase the overkill package and do everything, i figure no harm done if i change a belt out that will never need changing. I will jus do it all. I will also invest in the tool. Thank you everyone!
[MENTION=80102]shadow247[/MENTION]: I think i will use your brain and hands for this job. Let me know what beer you like and how many dead presidents!
[MENTION=80102]shadow247[/MENTION]: I think i will use your brain and hands for this job. Let me know what beer you like and how many dead presidents!
t4r4life
Elite Member
Dang i wanna help you out too but im doing my rear axle seals and bearings at BAMF tomorrow. If you Don't do your lift tomorrow Im down to help you whenever. fastest lift i've done was 1 hour and 58 mins Maybe i can break PR lol
A pic is worth some serious $.
It might be a bit grainy in the pic, but you'll find only 1 dimple on the face of the crank timing gear, more or less around 3 o'clock when the mark on the oil pump cover (12 o'clock) is aligned with the mark on the crank sensor wheel.
OK now I did it :bluejump: This was the missing link for your perfect timing belt job done easily every time.
It might be a bit grainy in the pic, but you'll find only 1 dimple on the face of the crank timing gear, more or less around 3 o'clock when the mark on the oil pump cover (12 o'clock) is aligned with the mark on the crank sensor wheel.
OK now I did it :bluejump: This was the missing link for your perfect timing belt job done easily every time.
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Brian757
New member
Yeah, I noticed that tool in the pictorial I provided in my first post. I think I am going to purchase that tool, get all of my parts(the overkill one), and I will give you a call.
