gimlithepirate
New member
I need new inner tie rods and boots. Should I just go ahead and replace the steering rack? Steering has always been heavy, but I have no idea if there is actually a steering rack problem...
Should I replace the steering rack?
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montijo505
Senior Member
Unless it leaks or needs bushings, I’d leave it be. Have someone turn the wheel while you watch the rack, if it shifts the bushings are done. The bushings, if memory serves, are a pain. Easier to buy a rebuilt rack and replace. CVJ sells them remanned, if you want new buy from McGeorge online, best prices around.
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Drcoffee
Senior Member
Its probably the intermediate shaft u-joint
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-...-column-u-joint.html?highlight=Heavy+steering
On mine, I added 1oz of AT205 to recondition the rack seals.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-...-column-u-joint.html?highlight=Heavy+steering
On mine, I added 1oz of AT205 to recondition the rack seals.
Warwicke36
New member
Make sure it IS indeed the inners and not the rack bushings...they display in a similar manner when shaking a tire back and forth. Have someone else work the tire back and fort and get your hand on the joint. If the whole thing is going up and down its more likely the bushing... you should be able to tell fairly easily.
If its the Inner tie rods IMO just replace those.
If it's the bushings in the rack do the rack.
gimlithepirate
New member
Ok, so let me make sure I understand. Put my hand on the inner tie rod joint (which is under the rack and pinion boot), and have someone turn the steering back and forth. If its the tie rod, it will just be sloppy. If it is the rack bushings the whole rack will move up and down as the wheels are turned?
Warwicke36
New member
The easiest way to tell is to pull the inner tienrod boit off at the rack and watch as some one shakes a wheel back and forth (at the wheel not steering wheel)... If its the rack bushings you can see the rack part of the rack move up and down where it goes into the rack body. You can feel for this through the boot too. If its the inner joint you can feel it AT the joint but the rack (inner part hidden beneath the boot, not the outer body) shouldn't have movenent. Does that make sense? Its hard to describe via text. I am not a great technical writer, esp on my phone.
Jah; heavy steering can be caused by old fluid.
My '15 with 65k miles was very heavy until I changed; it was surprising how much lighter the steering was after a couple of drain & fills.
gimlithepirate
New member
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Any opinions on if this is too much play up and down?There is possibly a little play up and down, definitely the joint is shot.
The boot had a bunch of fluid in it, though none of it looked like PS fluid. More looked like the Grease from the failed joint combined with water...
First, that video looked perverted :lmao: There should be no liquid inside that boot unless the boot is split and you possibly drove through or splashed water into it. Anything else would be PS fluid and the only way it would be there is failed seals. I really can't tell from the video how much up and down movement there is but if you had liquid in the boot my vote goes for replacing the rack.
Warwicke36
New member
Based on the video I say do the rack. I have had a few beers but I see movement in the bushings.
Also you can grab the exposed rack ans move it up and down and check for any play. If it clunks at all ita shot and will only get worse rather quickly
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Flesh Eater
Member
How many miles are on this? Kind of curious what the life span is on these steering racks.
gimlithepirate
New member
180k miles
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gimlithepirate
New member
The boot was split, complicating the issue -_-
Looks like I may be ordering from the rack doctor.
gimlithepirate
New member
Thanks to everyone for opinions. I'm stumped on this one. The shaft isn't moving when I hoss on it directly, but the boot was full of stuff.
I'm really gunshy right now, because since January 1 I have replaced PS pump, alternator, valve cover gasket, UCA, LCA, sway bar end link, pcv valve, and an ABS wire... So this car is trying to get away from me. Makes me see ghosts in places they might or might not be.
I'm really gunshy right now, because since January 1 I have replaced PS pump, alternator, valve cover gasket, UCA, LCA, sway bar end link, pcv valve, and an ABS wire... So this car is trying to get away from me. Makes me see ghosts in places they might or might not be.
Flesh Eater
Member
When I get into these situations, there's only one question I ask which dictates what I do: Am I going to keep this for as long as I possibly can, drive it, and enjoy it? If that answer is yes, I just keep fixing/upgrading parts.
If you want to put 300,000 miles on this, and plan to, just keep on building it and know you've got an old vehicle that's still dependable. These are just wear items you're replacing. If the drive train is still in great shape, I would do all new steering and run it another 180k miles. But, the newest vehicle I own is a 2010, and my lowest mileage vehicle is around 109k miles and 12 years old. So most people think I'm "crazy."
Also, when they're paid off...it's a no brainer for me.
gimlithepirate
New member
I've only had this one a year, and am a bumper (which arrives Monday) short of having it where I want it. So I would like to get a while out of it.
I do all my own wrenching, and when it is spaced out quite enjoy it. When I have to do it all at once though, it gets old fast. Plus, while a steering rack is diyable, it's not an easy diyable. If it needs to be done I'll do it, but if I'm just borrowing trouble... It doesn't help that the steering rack isn't clearly broken one way or another, and that most steering racks come with parts I have to buy (inner tie rods, boots)
Anyway, I've flip flopped 4 ways since this morning. I'm sure I'll come up with another flip flop or two before ordering parts tomorrow.
I think you're just going through a patch of problems right now. Once you get these things straight I believe you'll be fine. My 05 is just 600 miles short of tripping 300K and still going strong. Compared to that yours is just a baby, lol. Sometimes I worry about mine, with it having that many miles. Especially when I'm 20-30 miles from pavement in the GSM National park on some forest service road with no cell signal. But, I'm planning on keeping this thing long term and fixing whatever breaks. Hopefully I'll have warning and can make repairs before it fails and not get stuck in the middle of nowhere. My point being, your runner's still got plenty of reliable miles ahead of it.
gimlithepirate
New member
Driver side boot was full of fluid, so that makes replacing the steering rack a definite thing I need to do. Ordering from rackdoctor today, and moog tie rods from Amazon.
Should I do the lower steering shaft as long as I'm at it? I know I've got to disconnect it to get it off. The one that's in there is original, the U joint looks mediocre at best, and I've always thought the steering seemed stiffer than it should...
Should I do the lower steering shaft as long as I'm at it? I know I've got to disconnect it to get it off. The one that's in there is original, the U joint looks mediocre at best, and I've always thought the steering seemed stiffer than it should...
montijo505
Senior Member
Did you check CVJ’s price on a reman’d rack? I’ve never checked the price versus rackdoctor but worth a look.
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