Should I run new speaker wire for new upgraded speakers?

[thomaspuzio]

I replaced all four door speakers. I replaced the factory sub and added a sub amp to power it.

I recall when installing the door speakers that the factory wire was VERY thin (24gauge?). I have read a bunch of articles about speaker wire, however the jury seems to be out. In this case there is a cost/benefit ratio which must be considered. The cost of the wire is negligible, but the cost of labor to install the new wire may be a full day for me. The benefit is the big question. So I have some questions:

1. Would running new speaker wire to all four doors create a discernible difference when listening to my system versus the stock speaker wire I currently am using?

2. Assuming I decide to run new wire, which gauge should I choose? (14 or 16?)

3. Where do the speak wires run once they leave the speaker? Do they all go back to the stock amp inside the rear passenger side panel? Would newer, thicker speaker wires fit into whatever the original stock speaker wires terminate in?

4. I have an after market head unit which uses a wire harness adapter to create RCAs and interface with the stock amp. Would I be able to run new RCA cables from the stock amp to my after market head unit to eliminate the additional wire connections that happen along the way (just plugging directly from the amp to the head unit)?

5. If I already have the side panel off, should I just replace the stock amp with an aftermarket one? Will that impact my rear pillar and front center speakers? How can I keep those working with an aftermarket amp?

 

[RedSled]

You don't say what kind of equipment you are using, but unless it is very high end stuff, i would not bother running new wire. But thats just my opinion, i'm sure others will chime in soon.

 

[drei4runner29]

If you are replacing the stock amp with an aftermarket one, might as well replace the wiring too. Either 14 or 16 ga is fine, but I would invest in OFC wires instead of the cheaper CCA wires.


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[Bumbo]

It's like asking what size shoes do I need to buy without measuring your foot...

Impossible to answer without more information... its all going to come down to power and current handling requirements.

I also doubt the factory wire is as small as 24 AWG... even relay / signal control wiring in a typical car is bigger than that. Use a wire stripping tool as a gauge and report back with new equipment power specs.

 

[Brian3676]

It's not needed in your case. You still have the stock amp. Stock wattage is going to your speakers.

I did my speaker wire, but I also have $800 Focal components in my front doors with $500 Focals in my rear doors. The amp pushs 150 rms watts to each speaker. The only wiring worth changing in your case of the sub wiring since you are pushing more power to it.

Honestly my system sounded fine even with stock wiring. I was just board and wanted to see what some 14g OFC twisted wiring would do. I can honestly say its maybe 5% better and even that might just be my head telling me that.

If your still going to do it, use good wire, not the cheap stuff off Amazon. My wire was about $80 for the 4 doors.

 

[riceandpho]

i would run new speaker wire from the radio to each door to bypass the factory amp, that's only if you got decent speakers. now if you are set on using a different amp to replace the factory amp, its ok to use stock speaker wires, but for me personally, I do fresh everything, I can label each wire out and plan what the wire will do.

 

[thomaspuzio]

my equipment

Since it seems relevant...

My front door speakers are:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/IRa8efGGNLmKPsCs2

My rear door speakers are:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/lpZDiHSqHNjvT1xc2

My sub was replaced a few years ago, and honestly I don't recall which Kicker 8" sub I used, probably their less expensive model, but whichever model it was it fit in the factory opening. The sub was installed by a pro shop with this JL amp:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/elu0Ix5JAGjzlczn1

They ran the all the wires for the sub at that time.

Then I recently replaced my head unit with a Pioneer AVH-1330NEX
https://photos.app.goo.gl/FcXVwvxVITy6r0IC2

When I installed it, I was installing it to replace an older Pioneer unit I had best buy install. Here's some photos of what Best Buy did to my truck:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BPUqUSEHdG1s2Ss63
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZZ2YJpPkpnzqyvZ93
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zJxa1Pwn6DgybuYv1

They didn't solder anything. They just twisted wires and electrical taped it. After years of being in my dash the adhesive from the tape turned into black tar that I then spent several hours cleaning off the wires. They made small splices of wire (like a two inch piece) which then butt into another wire, which then connected to a third wire. I was so confused. So I removed everything. I live in an apartment and had to do this work on the street. I don't own a soldering iron (and if I did I wouldn't have a way to power it at the street in front of my building), so don't hate me for using butt splices that I crimped. I figure the twist and tape method Best Buy did worked for four years so this had to be better. I tried to organize everything so it made sense, plus putting it all back into the dash was much easier.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KgtcO1LsPHxoJz2x2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Sv4rmFfAQ3AyAfAi1

I have also upgraded my big three. I noticed when I did the big three the sub seemed to perform better which led me to asking the question about the speaker wires.

 

[drei4runner29]

Since it seems relevant...

My front door speakers are:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/IRa8efGGNLmKPsCs2

My rear door speakers are:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/lpZDiHSqHNjvT1xc2

My sub was replaced a few years ago, and honestly I don't recall which Kicker 8" sub I used, probably their less expensive model, but whichever model it was it fit in the factory opening. The sub was installed by a pro shop with this JL amp:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/elu0Ix5JAGjzlczn1

They ran the all the wires for the sub at that time.

Then I recently replaced my head unit with a Pioneer AVH-1330NEX
https://photos.app.goo.gl/FcXVwvxVITy6r0IC2

When I installed it, I was installing it to replace an older Pioneer unit I had best buy install. Here's some photos of what Best Buy did to my truck:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BPUqUSEHdG1s2Ss63
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZZ2YJpPkpnzqyvZ93
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zJxa1Pwn6DgybuYv1

They didn't solder anything. They just twisted wires and electrical taped it. After years of being in my dash the adhesive from the tape turned into black tar that I then spent several hours cleaning off the wires. They made small splices of wire (like a two inch piece) which then butt into another wire, which then connected to a third wire. I was so confused. So I removed everything. I live in an apartment and had to do this work on the street. I don't own a soldering iron (and if I did I wouldn't have a way to power it at the street in front of my building), so don't hate me for using butt splices that I crimped. I figure the twist and tape method Best Buy did worked for four years so this had to be better. I tried to organize everything so it made sense, plus putting it all back into the dash was much easier.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KgtcO1LsPHxoJz2x2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Sv4rmFfAQ3AyAfAi1

I have also upgraded my big three. I noticed when I did the big three the sub seemed to perform better which led me to asking the question about the speaker wires.

If the stock speaker wires are connected to the the new Pioneer HU and you’re happy with the way it sounds and you’re not planning on adding another amp, then just leave it the way it is.

Only reason some of us said to replace the wires was if you’re planning on adding an amp to power your door speakers.


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[thomaspuzio]

I am currently running the speakers off the factory JBL amp (my truck is the Limited model).

I like the fact that I get additional high end from the center front and rear pillar speakers. If I wired off the new Pioneer head unit or switched out the factory amp for something else, wouldn't I lose those speakers?

The sound is pretty good right now as is, but I don't know what it MAY sound like with the alternatives

1. same setup, just new speaker wires (and possibly straight run RCAS from head unit to amp, instead of the wiring harness adapter i have in my dash)
2. same setup, new speaker wires directly to doors, skip the factory amp
3. new amp for doors, new speaker wire to those speakers, lose the center channel and rear pillar tweeters

 

[osugsxr]

Looking into new speakers from taco tunes. Front and rear doors only for now. Are there better options for the price?

Headunit sony 8100 trail grid pro
taco tunes 4 channel amp TXD3204v3
Front Image Dynamics CTX65CS Component
Rear whatever is on their site

Its been years since I’ve installed car audio. The amp has two rca cables which connect to the stereo front/rear. I then have to run the speaker wires from the amp to the speakers? Do i disconnect the speaker wires at the headunit? The amps speaker connection is a pnp, where can i find this part?