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285 70-17 Michelin AT2 on Konig Countersteer X

Fender liners adjusted and mud flaps removed. Fronts rub slightly on body mount at full lock in reverse (why only in reverse? this puzzles me). I'm guessing the rub can be eliminated with caster adjustment, if not I'll chop the body mounts.
 
Done all the searches looking for a couple more shots. The at3 seem like a good tire not sure have an aggressive look. and can't tell from that shot.
 
They will rub a little when the wheels are turned full lock.
If you move the fenders(mod posted on this site) they wont rub. Just got back from a trip, i would have posted sooner

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Should be ok without spacers bud probably rubbing. Put spacers in and guarantee rub on flap and body mount.

So, effectively moving the wheel outwards causes rubbing? i am thinking of buying the Konig Contersteer wheels and they have a 10mm offset built into them (same as adding a 10mm spacer?). Will this increase or decrease the likeliness of a rub?
 
So, effectively moving the wheel outwards causes rubbing? i am thinking of buying the Konig Contersteer wheels and they have a 10mm offset built into them (same as adding a 10mm spacer?). Will this increase or decrease the likeliness of a rub?

[MENTION=89787]SShink[/MENTION] look, you have posted the same question in several threads. Here is the deal:

285's will fit with some rubbing on a stock TE wheel with no lift or even with a lift there could be some minor rubbing. Take off the mudflap and move the inner fender liner forward and you should be golden.

With that said, of course 275's will fit also.

If you CHANGE OFFSET OR BACKSPACING by going to a different wheel, all bets are off. You could rub, you could not, you could have to move the liner, you could have to change the caster a bit on alignment or you could have to do a body mount chop. NONE OF THESE MODS ARE HARD. Everything is easy peasy except the body mount chop and even that is not real hard. The only way you are guaranteed to not rub is keep stock wheel and stock tire size. Anything else and you might rub. OK?
 
[MENTION=89787]SShink[/MENTION] look, you have posted the same question in several threads. Here is the deal:

Look, here is the deal;
This is the first time I have asked anything about rubbing with a spacer or additional offset. I just saw a guy mention that in a post that I found while doing a search on this subject. Not the same question.

The point of the forum is to discuss/learn from others that have similar set-ups. Your post does noting to specifically explain anything I already didn't know.

Spacing a wheel outboard, whether with spacers or offset would seem to alleviate rub on some spots, but could make it happen in other spots. I suppose because it moves the turning radius of the tire's cross section outwards. I'd rather not hack-up my new 4Runner and if asking a few specific questions allows this, I'm not afraid to ask.

Give me a break, man.
 
Look, here is the deal;
This is the first time I have asked anything about rubbing with a spacer or additional offset. I just saw a guy mention that in a post that I found while doing a search on this subject. Not the same question.

The point of the forum is to discuss/learn from others that have similar set-ups. Your post does noting to specifically explain anything I already didn't know.

Spacing a wheel outboard, whether with spacers or offset would seem to alleviate rub on some spots, but could make it happen in other spots. I suppose because it moves the turning radius of the tire's cross section outwards. I'd rather not hack-up my new 4Runner and if asking a few specific questions allows this, I'm not afraid to ask.

Give me a break, man.

I'm sure you have read all kind of posts on tires rubbing at full lock correct? Think for a minute: Where do the tire edges go if I turn the steering wheel all the way to lock? Correct - they go towards the place where the center of the tire is when the wheels are straight except they go further forward and backward because of simple geometry. Right now at full lock with stock sizes the tire edges don't touch anything but they are close to the liner and the mudflap. By putting a spacer on or using a wheel with incorrect offset or backspace what will happen is this:
When wheels are straight the tire will stick out further by the thickness of the spacer. When you turn the wheel to full lock the spacers that widened the stance in the straight position will now move the tire edges much further backwards and forwards, which will cause the rubbing. Taking off a mudflap or moving the inner fender liner forward by a 1/4 inch is not hacking anything up. Body mount chop is a little different story.
 
I'm sure you have read all kind of posts on tires rubbing at full lock... off a mudflap or moving the inner fender liner forward by a 1/4 inch is not hacking anything up. Body mount chop is a little different story.

Thank You, I completely get it now. That's mechanical knowledge that I can certainly use.
Seems like stock wheels with bigger tires is a good place to start OR offset wheels with stock tires.
I do product development for a living and built race cars for years, so modifying something is not a problem...I just know that with modification, consequences often arise later down the road. I'd hate to create a happy pocket for corrosion to start by moving the inner fender and/or removing the mud-flap. They salt the heck out of the roads up here in Rochester, NY and I plan to get 10 years out of this vehicle...so I am hyper-concerned about corrosion.
 
[MENTION=89787]SShink[/MENTION] look, you have posted the same question in several threads. Here is the deal:

285's will fit with some rubbing on a stock TE wheel with no lift or even with a lift there could be some minor rubbing. Take off the mudflap and move the inner fender liner forward and you should be golden.

With that said, of course 275's will fit also.

If you CHANGE OFFSET OR BACKSPACING by going to a different wheel, all bets are off. You could rub, you could not, you could have to move the liner, you could have to change the caster a bit on alignment or you could have to do a body mount chop. NONE OF THESE MODS ARE HARD. Everything is easy peasy except the body mount chop and even that is not real hard. The only way you are guaranteed to not rub is keep stock wheel and stock tire size. Anything else and you might rub. OK?

Bad day today, oh-wise-one?
 
Hello, ok here goes.

I just spoke on the phone with someone from my local tire store that I go for the last 5 years and he told me that if I switch from stock tires/wheels 265/70R17 to 285/70R17 it will mess up my transmission and my ABS won't work properly.

Also he told me that if I want to do it he would have to reprogram the transmission with a chip which costs about 200$. He also didn't want to sell me that size because it's illegal or something here. I know he has to follow protocol or something.

Happy he didn't try to just sell me stuff but explained to me the situation. He also said that the Trail Edition has a different type of wheel spec and to look on the door or call Toyota and ask them the max I can go.

I have been reading threads almost every day and I learned a lot here, my question is. Should I get 285/70R17 or what, the dude kind of messed my plans.

I know a lot of you guys have this size so I am a bit confused. What should I do. Thank you.
 
Hello, ok here goes.

I just spoke on the phone with someone from my local tire store that I go for the last 5 years and he told me that if I switch from stock tires/wheels 265/70R17 to 285/70R17 it will mess up my transmission and my ABS won't work properly.

Also he told me that if I want to do it he would have to reprogram the transmission with a chip which costs about 200$. He also didn't want to sell me that size because it's illegal or something here. I know he has to follow protocol or something.

Was this the guy you spoke to?

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I wouldn't listen to him.
 

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