Show me your Odyssey 31M-PC2150 single-battery setups, please!!

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After much searching and ending up down many rabbit-holes, I thought I would ask to see/hear about your Odyssey 31M single-battery setups. I've got my ARB fridge and a huge summer trip to the mountains planned so I'm trying to get this all sorted out. So many of the past discussions were tangled in the DieHard days and I'm hoping to keep this specifically about the Odyssey 31M-PC2150 and the challenges it poses for replacing the stock starter battery.

I know I "need":
-Odyssey 31M-PC2150 (duh)
-Pelfreybilt battery cage

What else? Terminal extensions? Stud adaptors? Cable wrap? I'm getting pretty turned around on what else I might need for the simplest setup.

Thanks for any help you can provide. I've kind of researched myself in a circle. If there's some thread I haven't seen that answers this specific question, please let me know.
 
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you will also need a voltage booster and a battery charger that works with your battery (i bought a much cheaper battery so no idea if my charger is within spec for your battery)



(and you don't need a pelfreybilt cage, you could get a less expensive cage or tray.)
 
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you will also need a voltage booster and a battery charger that works with your battery (i bought a much cheaper battery so no idea if my charger is within spec for your battery)



(and you don't need a pelfreybilt cage, you could get a less expensive cage or tray.)

Right, I wrote that word and figured it would be mentioned. Ha!

I thought I found the charger I wanted but read so many reviews of it boiling people's batteries that I kinda gave up on that too. Would love to hear any recommendations on tried and true models. Thanks!
 
Someone posted a little while back that Odyssey recently switched the polarity of the poles in the 31m-PC2150.

Mine has the positive pole in the same location as the stock battery, closest to the engine.

You can get a 31R-PC2150 but lose the extra threaded set of terminals. You will more that likely need to craft a bus bar to extend the length of the stock terminals. Since I suppose you are fabbing a bus bar anyway you could still get the 31M and put it in terminals forward.

Extreme Series Battery Specifications ? ODYSSEY battery

Anyway just an FYI post.

(and you don't need a pelfreybilt cage, you could get a less expensive cage or tray.)

I would add as long as it keeps the battery from moving during rough driving you should be good. I recall [MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION] talking about his scenario running a 31 and his inner fender started cracking, EDIT: may or may not have been from the battery moving. IIRC he wasn't the only one to have this happen they we others too.
 
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Someone posted a little while back that Odyssey recently switched the polarity of the poles in the 31m-PC2150.

Mine has the positive pole in the same location as the stock battery, closest to the engine.

You can get a 31R-PC2150 but lose the extra threaded set of terminals. You will more that likely need to craft a bus bar to extend the length of the stock terminals. Since I suppose you are fabbing a bus bar anyway you could still get the 31M and put it in terminals forward.

Extreme Series Battery Specifications ? ODYSSEY battery

Anyway just an FYI post.



I would add as long as it keeps the battery from moving during rough driving you should be good. I recall [MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION] talking about his scenario running a 31 and his inner fender started cracking, apparently from the battery moving. IIRC he wasn't the only one to have this happen.
People are getting cracking even with the pelfreybilt cage

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Any thoughts on terminals, extensions, etc.? I'm up for whatever. Just want to get this going.

I did the titanpat method; hammering 1/2" copper tube flat and drilling holes.
The guy that was/is running the GB on a X2 battery and cage; claimed he was making/fabbing his own buss bar extentions, maybe give him a shout
 
Figured I'd post mine here. When I started this build 3 years ago, I selected a single battery setup (Odyssey 31M) for simplicity. Didn't really have time to clean things up really before installing last-minute stuff ahead of trips. It quickly turned into a rat's nest of wiring, although everything was sealed and crimped properly. Cleaned it up a couple months ago ahead of my Baja trip.

Previously I had flattened cables to get them to reach the further posts on the Odyssey battery, now cleaned up with Slee extenders. Still running the Bussman RTMR as I still prefer relays/fuses for circuit protection over electronic controls/capacitors/circuit boards (like the sPod and Switch Pros).

- Odyssey Group 31 (PC2150)
- Slee Terminal Extenders
- Blue Sea HD Battery Disconnect (rated for 600a continuous, 900a intermittent): this is my in-line winch disconnect in case of a winch solenoid stuck open. I've seen people use regular battery connectors or a high amp solenoid. Most are not rated for the amp rating of the winch.
- Upgraded factory Warn winch wiring from 2AWG (very undersized for current load) to 1/0AWG to match power draw
- Blue Sea 300A 4-post power bussbar: this eliminated all the power wires that previously hung off the terminals that need a direct power source and cannot run off the relay box. Most of the high amp circuits are now separately fused through this connection: (2) 40A circuits to the ARB compressor, (1) 40A circuit to a 4AWG direct to my internal Blue Sea fuse box in the rear cargo area (powers fridge, HAM radio, and some other in-cabin electrical accessories). Also have a National Luna single battery monitor/alarm in the back.
- Blue Sea 80A circuit breaker: Protects the 300A bussbar circuit and the Bussman RTMR relay box from overloading. Technically the 300A Bussbar has double failsafes (the circuit breaker and the individual high-amp fuses in each circuit).
- Bussmann RTMR circuit box: All circuits are on a relay: rock lighting, light bars, air compressor, etc.)
- Everything wrapped in Raychem DR-25 milspec sleeving in the engine bay, terminals with double layer heat shrink for added protection from the elements. This is heat, chemical, and corrosion resistant and way better than that split loom plastic sleeving at the auto parts store. Everything in the cabin is wrapped in PET sleeving.
- Battery is protected via alarms and fridge low-voltage cutoff (really the fridge is the only thing that's running while the engine is off), supplemented by a high voltage charging diode to properly charge the battery and also solar power.


BEFORE:
39259280985_6ebe37cd9e_c.jpg


AFTER:
39259274845_b8b1313166_c.jpg

39446800874_e62821deb1_c.jpg

39259268055_fccb7ac0ae_c.jpg
 
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highly, highly recommend this:

https://www.hkbelect.com/

Before this, I ran my old diehard 31M dead over a period of 2 years with an otherwise stock setup. Replaced with an Odyssey PC2150 and added the HKB voltage booster and its still fully charged, even with intermittent use over the last year.

I used stud to post adapters that I bought here so that I didn't have to change the stock terminals at all. Both the diehard and the Odyssey required 3/8 inch thread positive and 5/16 inch negative thread SS stud terminals - which transferred perfectly to my Odyssey a year ago - but you may want to confirm if this still applies.

I have the Pelfrey cage and it looks & works great and also gives me piece of mind, but of course you can go with out it. I think some of the issues with the cracked fenders may also be due to the larger battery being so much heavier than stock setup, which a cage won't help with. Then again I don't wheel mine like any of the guys who have had issues and I don't have any cracking or trouble, so don't take it as anything hot air from me.
 
Well, I'm glad someone made a thread like this because I know jack crap about batteries. My wife has been nagging and nagging for a fridge setup for our longer camping days. Hates having to always stop for ice every couple of days, but more importantly hearing it slosh around in the cooler on the offroad routes (granted I can admit this does get a bit annoying).

I've been told by numerous people a 31M will do the trick, and a lot have recommended the Odyssey batteries.

What exactly is the process of doing this? Is it a simple remove the one add the Odyssey and done. I see you all mentioning voltage boosters, terminal extenders, etc.

My current setup is just my fogs, winch and lightbar running off it. The only additional thing would be the fridge, which has the battery monitor.
 
I recommend going with a 27F and 4th gen battery tray, fits soooooo much better, no terminal mods needed and almost same capacity.
 
I recommend going with a 27F and 4th gen battery tray, fits soooooo much better, no terminal mods needed and almost same capacity.
Significant Ah difference though, if you want to have a chance lasting a weekend with a fridge you need 31m

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Significant Ah difference though, if you want to have a chance lasting a weekend with a fridge you need 31m

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Mine lasts just fine through the weekend with 27F and 50QT fridge. Gone 4 days with fridge running and starts just fine. It's more likely to have an issue with all those crazy terminal adapters than benefit from that 10% AH increase, 91AH vs 103AH.
 
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Mine lasts just fine through the weekend with 27F and 50QT fridge. Gone 4 days with fridge running and starts just fine. It's more likely to have an issue with all those crazy terminal adapters than benefit from that 10% AH increase, 91AH vs 103AH.
What battery? I thought group 27 is usually 65-75Ah.

EDIT: Nevermind, I was confusing 27 and 34

4 days is about the limit with a 31 in the summer with the fridge on the med shutoff setting, i don't think it's realistic to get that with a smaller battery unless the temps are mild. i trend all of my battery voltage and in 90+ degree ambient temps I hit the high (11.9V) shutoff on day 3 with a 31 and 40 qt on day 3 and can post the graphs
 
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dur, i was thinking 34 not 27

27 will work, 34 is too small IMO

(27 is basically the same size and weight as 31, ~1" shorter and a few lbs less)
 
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dur, i was thinking 34 not 27

27 will work, 34 is too small IMO

(27 is basically the same size and weight as 31, ~1" shorter and a few lbs less)

Fits correctly and has 4-year warranty vs 3-year on Marine Barreries.
 

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