Rear Hatch Lighting
I am hoping this is the policy, but I plan to update this post whenever I Add a new Mod/Upgrade? or just figure something new about the 5th..
This newest Mod happened while waiting for the Wife to get an Out Patient Procedure done. So with minimal Tools and a Parking lot of on lookers wondering WTH I was doing.
Tools:
Drill
Dykes
Molding Removal Tool
Supplies:
-Under Hood LED Kit (*I purchased the below kit expecting a single 24" Strip of LED's, I was surprised to find that it was 4 24" connected strips)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Underhood-LED-Light-Kit-w-Hood-Switch-Size-and-Color-Options-Available/291157773341?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=590308031148&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
-Clear Double Sided Tape
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9GPJM9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-1 Meter LED Channel with Cover (I ordered a 6 pack, only needed 2)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M09PBYX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
First thing I did was measure to make sure everything would fit, and it was perfect without having to cut anything. I did have to overlap LED strips in order to avoid Soldering (I was in a parking Lot, not home).. I marked where the end of the channels would fall. These marks were important when it was time to drill holes for the Wiring.
-Once the measuring was complete, I added the double sided Tape to the Aluminum Strips (Cleaned with Alcohol Wipes).
-The next step was to add the LED strips to the Aluminum Strips.
*At this point I cut 2 of the strips off, leaving me with 2 sections of 2 LED strips. Because of where I cut the wire, I did not have to do any soldering, I had wiring at the end of each pair.
Just peel the backing and apply pressure with your fingers.. Keep in mind, I did overlap the LED strips. It wasnt much, and not necessary. I could have cut the LED strips and resoldered the leads, but decided overlapping wouldnt hurt output or performance. *Pic shows what I mean when I say I overlapped*
-Based on my marks, it was time for me to drill the holes I needed in order to run the wires behind the Hatch Panel. I wanted it to appear as clean as possible, so I drill the holes as reasonably close as possible to my marks. *Sorry I dont know the size of the Bit I used, but it was tiny, the smallest one I own.
*I also didnt take pics, so the below pic is after the installtion was complete.
Before setting the Lights in place, I needed to figure out which wires I wanted to tap into for the Lights to function as needed. To do this I use my molding tool to remove one of the Hatch light housing and take a look at how it works. I determined the Red Wire and the Solid Blue Wires were the ones I needed. These Wires allowed the LED's to be on whenever the Hatch is open.
* I have since soldered these connections, but while in the parking Lot, I just spliced the wires with what I had on hand as seen in the pics.
- I cleaned the Hatch panel with Alcohol wipes and prepared th strips by peeling the backing off the Double sided Tape. Placed the Strips and added the needed pressure to ensure proper seating. These Aluminum Strips are flexible, and were able to bend as much as needed to conform to the curves of the panel.
*The Panels come with mounting Hardware, but because of my setting, I decided to hold off on using them, but I saved them just in the case the Double Sided Tape doesnt hold up. I'd prefer to not add any unnecessary holes in the panel. So far I have had no issues, even though it has been quite hot here in Central FL.
-Added the End Caps that came with the Aluminum Channels
- To get to the wires of the Hatch lights, I used my Molding tool and pried the panel down and ran the wires to the lights.
-This is what you see when closed.
When Open
Shots at Night
