Signs of A340F transmission going out
- Thread starter nathanroyse
- Start date
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Yes, it would start to shift bad every time and progressively get worse and start to slip or drift when shifting. Like I said, it's really hard to diagnose a 'feel' sort of thing over an internet forum. My 4Runner shifts hard when cold but once the fluid heats up it shifts smooth, except when I get on the throttle then it shifts very quick and hard again. If one were to drive mine for the first time, one might think there's something wrong with it but in actuality it's working exactly how I want it to. There are slight adjustments that can be made for shifting behavior using the above mentioned kickdown cable that's on the throttle body, and more drastic measures by modifying the throttle body. That's more for firmer shifts, not smoother shifts though.
ShoresMike
New member
Thank you. This isn’t that. This is delayed engagement of the transmission. It will act like it is in neutral, and then when I give it gas it will rev then slam into gear if I’m not careful. Also happens when I make a turn and the trans downshift. It will downshift into “neutral”, then slam into gear. I can feel when it’s in “neutral”, so I can baby the throttle and it shifts “smoothly” into a gear.
nathanroyse
New member
I made this post a while ago while I was fighting to figure out whether or not I need to plan on replacing my transmission. I’ve learned some new things and tried changing some things in order to try and get it to start shifting normal but nothing really seems to make any difference… previously I was adjusting the kickdown cable to “factory spec” or the measurements that were written in the factory service manual which states that the little rubber knob should be sticking 0-1mm out of the rubber housing. However when I do that, the transmission kicks into gears while driving. I loosened the cable so that the knob is inside the rubber housing(I’ll attach a picture) and that’s the only way it shifts smooth. Also, when I take my foot off the gas petal and then press the gas again, there’s an initial jolt, then it downshifts and goes. Does anyone else’s car do this? I feel like it’s probably not a good thing if the line pressure has to be really loose for it to shift normally. For those of you who have older model 4Runners, if you have time can you look and see where your cables are adjusted to? Literally any information will help. Thank you!
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T4R2014
Elite Member
The accelerator and kickdown cables on the majority of these trucks could use replacement at this point. Even if you get adjustment correct, the cable may not operate smoothly anymore. FSM adjustment likely does not factor in stretching over time as well.
That being said, yours looks incredibly loose. You could undo the cable without even loosening the nuts.
That being said, yours looks incredibly loose. You could undo the cable without even loosening the nuts.
nathanroyse
New member
I’ve tried looking for replacements but all I can seem to find is aftermarket. And I’ve learned my lesson several times too many with buying aftermarket parts. I know the cable is too loose, I was basically trying to show how loose it has to be in order for it not to kick when driving. If the cable was worn, wouldn’t it stretch therefore need to be tightened?
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T4R2014
Elite Member
It can also stick in certain positions while driving. I have had this issue with an accelerator cable on my Land Cruiser. Upon removal it moved completely fine. My hunch is that once it is mounted and routed to spec, it wears in the areas it bends. Issue was only resolved with a new cable. You can try lubricating the cable, but they are not meant to be serviced regardless. The OEM cable has to be out there. You may need to search using your VIN.
OEM part number 35520-35190 2000 toyota 4Runner Cable assembly, throttle. Atm, transmission, driveline - 3552035190 - Genuine toyota Part
Same part number for 96-00 by the way since I couldn't remember what year you have.
nathanroyse
New member
Thank you! It looks like this is for the throttle assembly. Have you seen one for the transmission kickdown cable?
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Maybe one of your solenoids is going out? I just ordered new solenoids for mine because sometimes after a cold start it feels like it's starting out in 3rd gear when i'm in drive. I'll give it a lot of gas and it barely moves. Reverse works fine and manually shifting to L works fine also. Then after it warms up a little it works fine and I have no issues.
That's the one for the transmission. If you look at the parts diagram in the link it will give you a better idea.
EDIT: What you and most people call the "kickdown cable" is actually used to control the line pressure in the transmission. This is the one for the accelerator pedal to the throttle body: 2000 toyota 4Runner Cable assembly, accelerator control. Interior, body, link - 7818035260 - Genuine toyota Part
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nathanroyse
New member
Transmission line pressure* I knew that. Thank you again, I just ordered a new pressure and throttle cable from Toyota. I’ll change them out and see if it makes a difference. I think I’m going to have to remove the valve body to change the cable… is there anything I should look for specifically while I’m in there? Anything that would let me know if the trans has any problems?
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nathanroyse
New member
Interesting. I’ve never got any codes or CELs for a solenoid but since I’m cracking the pan open again to change the cable it might be worth just replacing them while I’m in there. Mine has plenty power… it’s actually the fastest out of a couple of other 4Runners that my buddys have. Haha
You’re welcome. Nothing more that I can think of that you haven’t already done. Some people have replaced their shift solenoids with rockauto ones with good results, but the shift solenoids may not be your issue. I haven’t changed the line pressure cable but I recall another member saying you could do it without removing the valve body. Take careful note of the routing as the cable doesn’t have any extra length to it.
nathanroyse
New member
I picked up a new line pressure cable today. But it looks like there’s some adjusting you need to after you install it. It doesn’t appear to have a little nob on the wire, instead you have to crimp it on yourself. Has anyone done this or knows how to do it so it’s positioned right?
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nathanroyse
New member
Thank you! Those instructions are kinda vague but I guess I’ll do the best I can lol. Thank you for all your help. I’m going to also change the solenoids because I think the first clunk I’m getting is the lockup solenoid not unlocking the torque converter smoothly. Hopefully this makes a difference.
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