Simple Frame Rust Repair/Prevention.

[MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION] I'm thinking of tackling this Tuesday and Wednesday if needed. How's it holding up? My frame looks in similar condition to yours with most of the rust on the welds. How did you go about painting the top of the frame near the gas tank?

Got any updated pics?
 
Yeah. Haha I was going to get you some but looked and it was the exact same so I didn't bother. Just look at my previous pictures and that's it!
 
Before I Monstalined the body, I hit the majority of the rust with Chassis saver. It went on nice, and thin is in with this stuff. 2 coats is mandatory and again, the thinner the better.

Before....

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After.....

1000778_4455147716828_2125266485_n.jpg
 
Oh yeah... Im going redneck on the inside of the frame. I bought a 1 gallon yard sprayer from Home Depot and rust converter from "The Rust Store." Havent tried it yet, but it should work. Then Ill use the sprayer for an annual underbody treatment of some concoction to keep things under control.
 
I just did this about a month ago because it was really starting to bother me. I'll get pictures up next week but this is what I did after reading and reading up on rust prevention. I decided I wanted something that was spray on instead of paint on, bc brushing seems too messy.

1. Took my 4runner to a manual car wash and washed the underside, I think I spent $5 in quarters. I just used water.
2. Waited for it to dry, then the next day removed the spare tire.
3. Got underneath the truck with a cordless drill and a wire brush. My was pretty bad so I had a lot of stuff come flying off. Wear long sleeves, eye protection and a mask!! I think I spent about 2 hours wire brushing everything I could get my drill into.
4. Then I briefly wiped everything down acetone, I got pretty lazy with this part bc I really wanted to start spraying.
5. I ended up using 3 cans of Eastwood Internal Frame Coating and tried to coat the inside of the frame as best I could. It comes with a long tube/hose so you can get it pretty deep inside. Wear eye protection and a mask, this stuff seems pretty toxic! One area I was noticing that saw more rust then normal was rear trailing arm connection point to the frame. I guess since it sticks out and is open, salt and water can build up in this area. Note to self remember to wash this area off more often.

Amazon.com: Internal Frame Coating Rust Prevention w/Spray Nozzle: Automotive

6. Then I used 2 cans (maybe 3 I forget) of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Paint - Black Aerosol. I only did one coat of this, but it seem to cover pretty well. The first can was fun bc you're covering everything up, the second can (or the rest) was just tedious. I think this part took me around 2 hours.

Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Paint - Black Aerosol 15 oz : Amazon.com : Automotive

7. Then I let it sit for 24 hours to dry.
8. Next day I used 1.5 cans of Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black Paint Satin Aerosol 14oz. This was a slight pain bc it was hard to paint black on black primer. I wish there was a different color for the primer. I think this took less than 2 hours. Remember to wear long sleeves, eye protection, a mask and gloves!! this stuff is hard to get off. Always wear latex gloves anytime you paint anything, that's what I've learned.

Amazon.com: Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black Paint Satin Aerosol 14oz: Automotive


I never removed a wheel, but I bet I could have done a better job with the front wheels off. Actually I had to fix a squeaking coming from my front driver side brakes (my rusted brake shields were touching my rotors) and I ended up spraying encapsulator in that area.

If I could go back I would have added one step before the encapsulator... Eastwood Rust Converter Aerosol Stop & Prevent Rust.

Eastwood Rust Converter Aerosol Stop & Prevent Rust : Amazon.com : Automotive

But now I'm not embarrassed when people look at the 4runner. It actually looks pretty good. I forgot to check but when I jacked up the frame I was wondering if the paint would chip on not. I dont think it did.

-------------

Too much text with out pictures is boring. Sorry I'll get some up soon.

I'm going to tackle this soon as well. How did the Eastwood products turn out? Can you throw up some pics? Called around most autoparts stores around me and no one carries this brand, so I'll have to wait for to arrive from amazon.
 
It's holding up pretty well. There are some spots where it's flaking off, but I think it's because I didn't get all the loose rust off the first time. I think some touch up would work. The real test will be how it survives this winter. At least now I enjoy looking under the truck.

zlifFkd.jpg


So far I've been happy with the results.
 
i bought my truck and it had a fresh coat of under coat , didnt take long for the rust to bleed through . i took the read diff out and all suspension pieces and had them sand blasted . then por-15 everything , awesome product , very tough .
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I sand blasted the rear axil and frame rails from the front doors all the way back to the rear bumper.

Found this
ana7u5e8.jpg


I spent two 5 day off stretches under it with the welder, sandblaster, and paint. (ZeroRust, rusty metal primer from rustolum)
 
Good writeup! My car has been a Central California/SoCal car all of it's life, but I do see several spots of surface rust. I'm just going to sand them off for time being before spraying them.

Question: Is there anything I shouldn't spray down there with the Rustoleum? Or can I just go crazy with the spray can and spray the entire bottom with it?
 
Good writeup! My car has been a Central California/SoCal car all of it's life, but I do see several spots of surface rust. I'm just going to sand them off for time being before spraying them.

Question: Is there anything I shouldn't spray down there with the Rustoleum? Or can I just go crazy with the spray can and spray the entire bottom with it?

spray it up if its the black metal parts. your aluminum parts like transmission/x-case wont rust. (they oxidize but not the same or as bad) so i would say no worries. let the paint fly.
 
Ive been using this for the past few years with great results

Black Rocker Guard | Canadian Tire

I cleaned out most loose stuff, then just wire brushed and sprayed on, has a nice black sheen finish, did a few extra coats where the splash zones were more apparent, I did a complete spray down ( 5 cans) 3 years ago and every year i use one can and just touch up a few spots. Haven't seen any signs of rust on the entire underside to date.
 
Just got started on this project today. Definitely should be a summer project for 2 reasons: this stuff needs a surface temp of 50+ (I went through a lot of propane in the shop), and second for ventilation! It would be ideal to do on a warm summer day in the driveway. But I had no choice just buying this rig 4 weeks ago and didn't want to give that oxidation a second longer than I had to on my 4runner.

Before
2D65B553-DCBF-49EE-A917-B5F70C790CA5-21622-0000157E814E6836_zpsa0614685.jpg~original


135ADF1D-C558-437B-9123-925D46D54944-21622-0000157EA759D8CE_zpsbe6256f2.jpg~original


About 1.5 hours with a wire wheel
675316BA-F9A5-4528-A343-A80B5759D489-21622-0000157EC099E3A6_zpsd423837a.jpg~original


Better angle now that I'm down to metal and it's reflecting
8A2DBD4A-E0F7-4063-97E1-3BCBE3D27E6C-21622-0000157EDB04F25A_zpsdb476ced.jpg~original


First coat of Eastwood rust converter
6754CA70-622D-4506-9929-F012E4B3A391-21622-0000157F045316C4_zps69ebcef0.jpg~original


Second coat
16B7B980-3410-407A-B8D8-71899D97208A-21622-0000157F412F22EF_zpsa474c1f8.jpg~original


I think it already looks WAY better. This stuff has to cure 48 hours, then come Eastwood encapsulator, then chassis black.
 
i have done this to pretty much all of my rigs, although i use a epoxy paint designed to fight corrosion from salt and road spray and rock chips ect. i do this every fall. i take a wire brush, a drill with a wire wheel, some degreaser and some parts cleaner, and clean the frame, crossmembers, axle, links ect. i get all the debris off from the road and trails and any leaks i may have had through the year, scuff all the surfaces i can to get a good clean bond and then spay the whole frame. i have ZERO rust issues with my vehicles, and yes washington state uses a de-icer chemical on the roads, its basically a liquid salt, basically the same stuff they spray on airliners in the winter before taking off.. yeah it will eat metal if not washed off and or treated. we dont have the issues with rust out here like you guys back east and midwest only because we dont see as much snow as you guys do, but if we did we would be in the same situation out here. but even still i see cars that have rust issues from our salting, but typically they are cars that are much older.
 
Anyone got a good solution for cleaning out the inside of the frame?

I know mine has been trashed by Boston winters for the first 10 years of its life.

I stuck my pressure washer nozzle in there on full power. Still, there are loose pieces of rusted metal in the frame under the doors.

I can't figure out how to get that out of there.
 

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