Simple Noob Solar Question

[SirWilliamGoes]

I'm sure it may be somewhere and if so post the link cause I'm lost!!

I need a complete, inexpensive, decent solar solution to power my Indel fridge 24/7 in my runner. I would like to have the solar panel on the roof preferably unseen. I'm guessing I need the panel, connect to a battery. Inverter connect to battery and fridge to inverter. The problem is the amount of options and price range. Any help would be great.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[mgreen6616]

Don't do an inverter, it is inefficient to convert DC to AC. The Indel B will work more efficiently using the 12V DC plug over the AC plug. Get a cheap battery box, 33Ahr or better AGM battery, NOCO or Battery Tender etc. AC battery charger (to charge the battery from the rear AC port when driving), A BlueSea fuse block and bussman 100A circuit breaker and a BlueSea 12V plug. Put the battery in the box. Put attach the circuit breaker and panel inside the box and run install the BlueSea 12 plug into the side of the battery box with 8Ga wire to the BlueSea Fuse box. You can attached the ring terminals from the NOCO AC battery charger and run the quick disconnect cable out the side of the box. This setup will give you a Goal Zero Yeti function, with the portability for $180 (I added all to Amazon cart). For the solar get the 100W Renology with built in solar controller for $200. For $380 you will have a 33Ahr (or larger) portable battery box and 100W solar charging system. For reference, I bought the Goal Zero Yeti and 100W Goal Zero panel and it was $1000. The other option is to get an Odyssey main battery for your 4Runner and run a new 12V outlet in the rear and then use the solar panel to charge that battery when stationary. About the same cost, all in.

 

[mgreen6616]

I would recommend not permanently mounting the panel to the roof. You can store it up there but get it down and position it for optimal solar exposure (on an angle) and move it with the sun. Check out [MENTION=44305]weeeee[/MENTION] setup for inspiration.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/112823-weeeees-build-thread-6.html#post2309370

 

[Titanpat57]

......

 

[mgreen6616]

Unless you are TitanPat and can make it look that freakin' good

 

[Titanpat57]

Unless you are TitanPat and can make it look that freakin' good

lol...thanks

That's the beauty of this place, though....you never know what someone is going to come up

 

[SirWilliamGoes]

......

That's what I had in mind

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[SirWilliamGoes]

So am I hearing that I can get a panel to charge the regular battery. Run an additional 12v or make my current one always on and just recharge the regular battery with solar?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[Titanpat57]

So am I hearing that I can get a panel to charge the regular battery. Run an additional 12v or make my current one always on and just recharge the regular battery with solar?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

Yes...exactly

Here's the link that may explain a little better...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/213730-2016-roam-4runner-build.html

 

[SirWilliamGoes]

Yes...exactly

Here's the link that may explain a little better...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/213730-2016-roam-4runner-build.html

Nice, can't wait to read about ROAM. Thanks

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[weeeee]

Solar is pretty inexpensive nowadays. Since you'd like yours on the roof, spend a few extra bucks (if you can) on a good charge controller and a polycrystalline solar panel. It'll run more efficient since the roof isn't always at an ideal angle for solar capture.

I'm currently running a portable 100w solar suitcase since I don't have any roof rack space. I can move it around and adjust the angle if I want. More details in my build thread linked above.

Some good places to look:

Solar Blvd (cheap panels and controllers)
Renogy (solar suitcases, some good high end panels)

If you can't spend the extra bucks don't fret. Some solar is better than nothing. Get the biggest battery you can and keep it properly charged.

 

[mgreen6616]

You will read conflicting information (imagine that) on making the 12V in the back always on but the general consensus is that the wire is too thin a gauge (considering the long run to the back of the truck) for a fridge/freezer and that you should make a separate run. I would read the pro's and con's and know that the ARB kit is some decently thick wire.

 

[mgreen6616]

Solar is pretty inexpensive nowadays. Since you'd like yours on the roof, spend a few extra bucks (if you can) on a good charge controller and a polycrystalline solar panel. It'll run more efficient since the roof isn't always at an ideal angle for solar capture.

Sound advice on the charge controller. You want to maximize the conversion of sunshine into energy. Since you are talking about doing the TAT again you are going to want to maximize charging efficiency for those less than ideal locations and weather.

 

[jwkilgore]

So am I hearing that I can get a panel to charge the regular battery. Run an additional 12v or make my current one always on and just recharge the regular battery with solar?

Just keep in mind that standard auto batteries aren't designed for deep-cycle (long slow drain) use, and solar doesn't work at night. Once your battery is a few years old, a long night running your fridge plus any lights may mean no crank-up the next morning.

If I were using the same power supply for both high-amp starting and deep cycle I would either seriously upgrade the OEM battery, or else always keep a back-up battery available like a jump-starter pack. [MENTION=129859]mgreen6616[/MENTION]'s idea is best, though, and you could even wire it such that under full sun the solar panel charges both your car battery and the fridge battery.

 

[SirWilliamGoes]

So can I upgrade stock battery to a really good deep cell and keep a charge pack with me and be good?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[Drunner97]

......

If my Prinsu ever shows up this is exactly what I'm doing with my solar panel as well.

So am I hearing that I can get a panel to charge the regular battery. Run an additional 12v or make my current one always on and just recharge the regular battery with solar?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

If you aren't going to run dual batteries, this is how I would do it.

So can I upgrade stock battery to a really good deep cell and keep a charge pack with me and be good?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

Yes. My Indel B 51 qt set at 36 degrees with me in and out of it for beers all night only drained my battery from 12.4 to 12.0 over night without running the vehicle a single time. I am however running dual batteries so it's not something I think about. Just make sure you set the voltage cutoff on the fridge to something that will still allow you to start if you need to move in a hurry before the sun hits the solar panel and starts charging it again.

 

[weeeee]

So can I upgrade stock battery to a really good deep cell and keep a charge pack with me and be good?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

Yep, just make sure you make note of the charging requirements of whatever deep cycle battery you have. For instance, Odyssey's require around ~14.6ish for float charge which the OEM alternators cannot put out, so you'll never be at a full charge even if you drive around all day. If you put it on a charger you'll be golden. I throw my charger on there monthly, and again right before a trip so I'm at full charge.

For me, a single battery if it is sufficient for your power needs is the way to go. Even with two deep cycles, you can run into issues with your house battery or primary not getting charged. Just less complicated in my opinion. But you have to be careful about not fully discharging it at camp.

 

[SirWilliamGoes]

Yep, just make sure you make note of the charging requirements of whatever deep cycle battery you have. For instance, Odyssey's require around ~14.6ish for float charge which the OEM alternators cannot put out, so you'll never be at a full charge even if you drive around all day. If you put it on a charger you'll be golden. I throw my charger on there monthly, and again right before a trip so I'm at full charge.

For me, a single battery if it is sufficient for your power needs is the way to go. Even with two deep cycles, you can run into issues with your house battery or primary not getting charged. Just less complicated in my opinion. But you have to be careful about not fully discharging it at camp.

Which battery do you recommend? Also, if I get a solar panel and keep it hooked up wouldn't that charge it?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[nevada]

Just keep in mind that standard auto batteries aren't designed for deep-cycle (long slow drain) use, and solar doesn't work at night. Once your battery is a few years old, a long night running your fridge plus any lights may mean no crank-up the next morning.

If I were using the same power supply for both high-amp starting and deep cycle I would either seriously upgrade the OEM battery, or else always keep a back-up battery available like a jump-starter pack. @mgreen6616's idea is best, though, and you could even wire it such that under full sun the solar panel charges both your car battery and the fridge battery.

I don't have any experience with ARB(or any other 12v compressor fridges), but I cant imagine they are cycling on too often at night, are they?

I suppose if you are somewhere that its not cooling down at all, it would run more. but just being out of the sun, it should cool things down considerably, and allow the fridge more rest between cycles.


to the OP, I have a similar set up to what you are wanting on my hunting trailer. but I used 2 100W Renogy panels wired in parallel for 12v, but 10+amps. they are hard mounted on the roof, and cannot be aimed. while not ideal, it doesn't seem to make much difference. it keeps the battery charged VERY well, even with indirect sun.

 

[jwkilgore]

I don't have any experience with ARB(or any other 12v compressor fridges), but I cant imagine they are cycling on too often at night, are they?

I also have no idea, but if they are properly insulated and sealed the biggest heat source would be opening it up. So even if the temps dropped to the 50's, it will pull power if you kept opening it up to get stuff out and/or put warm stuff in.

But mainly my comment was on using the power source needed for cranking your vehicle for something else. Once a battery gets near the end of its life it doesn't take much to drain it so far it won't crank. I was stranded in a school car line once when a battery cranked fine in the morning, then was effectively dead after about 10 minutes of listening to the radio at low volume.

It's just my opinion, but if I were in a remote area and needed a constant power draw, I would get a second power source. Either a deep-cycle wired to the solar panels and any non-cranked loads (fridge, lights, fans, etc.), or else wire the fridge to your vehicle battery and keep a "jump starter" handy.