Single Deep Cycle install, another battery thread!!

e60ral said:
A fuse is to protect the wire, so any fuse between the max amps for the wire and your total load, maybe a 20A or 30A for this use

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what about the fuse block that I have will it work?
61uwOhVoRGL._SL1000_.jpg
 
Yeah your diagram will work just fine (I can't speak to the fuse block itself with just a pic, I assume it's rated sufficiently for 80A), I was just saying that if you're annoyed that your setup is complex you could simplify it if you wanted to. If you want a rear fuse block for expandability in the rear move forward with your plan

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e60ral said:
Yeah your diagram will work just fine (I can't speak to the fuse block itself with just a pic, I assume it's rated sufficiently for 80A), I was just saying that if you're annoyed that your setup is complex you could simplify it if you wanted to. If you want a rear fuse block for expandability in the rear move forward with your plan

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I want it to be simple as possible and work correctly powering my fridge full time. The breaker that I have is 80 amps could I use that and be ok? earlier someone said that the 80amp would not work with the 8ga wire. I still have the 8ga wire so if I could use that then I would be happy I guess I can just go pick up a 40 amp breaker/fuse if I have to
 
You can use the 8 gauge for just your fridge, or to a panel, but not with an 80A breaker. The fuse block is not required if you want it to be as simple as possible.

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e60ral said:
You can use the 8 gauge for just your fridge, or to a panel, but not with an 80A breaker. The fuse block is not required if you want it to be as simple as possible.

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So get a 20-40 amp regular in line fuse like what I would run for a stereo system and run the fuse block since I already have it then run what gauge off the block to the panel I have?
 
If you want to use the fuse block use 40A or whatever the max s for 8AWG for your circuit length, a car stereo type fuse will work fine

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e60ral said:
If you want to use the fuse block use 40A or whatever the max s for 8AWG for your circuit length, a car stereo type fuse will work fine

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This 80amp one that I have won't work on the 8ga wire though? Right?

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Ok so of all places Wal Mart was the only place I could find locally that had want I needed tonight. I'm gonna give this a try during this week's camping trip and hope for the best. Later I will likely upgrade to the breaker.
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SIRWILLYSC said:
Great thanks. I will hopefully have everything installed this Thursday. I wish that I was able to just always on the factory outlet without being an issue, this has been a damn headache!!!

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It's really only challenging because you are making it so complex. I ordered this ARB kit (likely overpriced but whatever) with my 50 qt fridge:

https://www.amazon.com/ARB-10900027...rd_wg=M0Ckl&psc=1&refRID=G82VMDD35HP7W4QCYPNA

My wife installed our Odyssey Group 34 battery and ran the wire all the way to the rear over the course of about 45 minutes while I was at work.

I have a voltmeter I can use to test the battery if I'm parked a long time and feel I need to. Having a built in one would be nice, but it's not like I'll be running it down daily.
 
Trixx said:
It's really only challenging because you are making it so complex. I ordered this ARB kit (likely overpriced but whatever) with my 50 qt fridge:

https://www.amazon.com/ARB-10900027...rd_wg=M0Ckl&psc=1&refRID=G82VMDD35HP7W4QCYPNA

My wife installed our Odyssey Group 34 battery and ran the wire all the way to the rear over the course of about 45 minutes while I was at work.

I have a voltmeter I can use to test the battery if I'm parked a long time and feel I need to. Having a built in one would be nice, but it's not like I'll be running it down daily.
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SOB!!!! Had I only known!!

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Trixx said:
It's really only challenging because you are making it so complex. I ordered this ARB kit (likely overpriced but whatever) with my 50 qt fridge:

https://www.amazon.com/ARB-10900027...rd_wg=M0Ckl&psc=1&refRID=G82VMDD35HP7W4QCYPNA

My wife installed our Odyssey Group 34 battery and ran the wire all the way to the rear over the course of about 45 minutes while I was at work.

I have a voltmeter I can use to test the battery if I'm parked a long time and feel I need to. Having a built in one would be nice, but it's not like I'll be running it down daily.
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The reason I have been making it so complex is because 1 I have no idea what the hell I'm doing!!! Two I plan on adding a solar set up very similar to Weeeee's build so I figured I needed all this

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Can anyone suggest why in the ARB it they use two wires knowing it's a long run.? when everyone suggests it's best to run the long hot wire then ground close to the final destination point.

Is it there just in case you wouldn't have a ground at the end of the line?
 
omaguz said:
What battery you ended up with???
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XS Battery from Batteries+ group 24 I believe. Whatever they recommend for a 4runner. 160 reserve after he did the calculation for me he said I should get at least 55hrs of run time with no charge

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Ok so apparently sometime last night or yesterday the fridge tuned off but I do not believe it was voltage turn off instead the 12v plug is loose. Any recommendations on perhaps a better 12v female? Or maybe Anderson poles?

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SIRWILLYSC said:
Ok so apparently sometime last night or yesterday the fridge tuned off but I do not believe it was voltage turn off instead the 12v plug is loose. Any recommendations on perhaps a better 12v female? Or maybe Anderson poles?

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does your fridge tell you if it shutoff from voltage (my dometic will blink the status light). If it was at night vs. randomly while driving i'd bet voltage over a bad connection.

As far as better 12v, i use the locking marine kind since the dometic plug is the locking kind http://a.co/cukmYjh
 
e60ral said:
does your fridge tell you if it shutoff from voltage (my dometic will blink the status light). If it was at night vs. randomly while driving i'd bet voltage over a bad connection.

As far as better 12v, i use the locking marine kind since the dometic plug is the locking kind http://a.co/cukmYjh
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I have one that's similar to that, though I don't think they locked it. I don't think voltage cause It read 12.7 volts and on brand new deep cell battery. I'm not sure if it tells me if it cut off due to voltage that would be good

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