Skid Plate Bolts

[delucat2]

The bolts being stripped isn't what the problem is.

The threads the bolt has to hold onto - in the nut that is spot welded to the under-carrige / the threaded hole in the metal being damaged is the problem. Re-tapping with M8 is only a solution if there is enough material left to cut some decent threads into.

I just ran the M8 through all 8, and one in the very front is so torn up that a new bolt will still slip. 7 of 8 isn't bad, but that one now needs a m10 or 5/16ths to really get into some good metal. I hate this situation because if someone else ever pulls off the skidplate, one bolt being different will result in a total cluster putting it back together for 8 / 10 mechanics nowadays.

I want to punch the value engineer in the face who decided to use self tapping rather than tap and use a decent bolt. All for the sake of 2 minutes and $2. Stupid.

 

[cmoore50]

It is a well known issue that the factory skid plate bolts are self tapping and therefore easily cross threaded.

While I have heard of this issue since purchasing my 1999 4R 8 years ago, I never had any experience with it as I have always changed my oil myself, dropping the skids every time, and never had an issue at all. Just been very careful to hand thread them as much as possible before using the ratchet.

Now on my 2007 4R, I noticed immediatly when dropping the skids to install the lift kit that the 3 of the bolts were cross threaded from the factory. :bash: I did not address the issue until changing my oil for the first time as I didnt have the stuff on hand to fix the issue.

I thought I would post about this to inform others of how easy it really is to fix. I had never used a thread tap before and was worried that it would get screwed up even worse at first.

I picked up a set of craftsman thread taps at sears. The size you need is M8x1.25. Also a tap wrench and some cutting oil. And new bolts sized M8x1.25x25mm.

I picked up enough to replace all 8 bolts as the socket needed to undo these bolts is 13mm rather than the 12mm for the factory bolt heads. This way only one socket is needed while removing the skids.

Tapping the threaded bolt holes is very simple. Just put a some cutting oil on the tap and screw it into the hole slowly and be sure to keep the tap straight. It will self feed into the hole. As you sense resistance, back the tap out a half turn to break up any cuttings, then start to screw in again putting even pressure on both sides of the t-tap wrench handle.

On the front most holes of the factory skid plate (the ones with the hooks on it), I needed to use a dremel to widen the holes (in the skid, not the threaded mount) a hair as the hole is very tight and precise alignment of the skid and threaded hole must be made to avoid re cross threading.

Thats it very simple and the bolts went back in as they should.

Materials...

Note the factory bolts cross threaded...

I know this is an OLD post, but I just wanted to thank the OP.

I did this last weekend. Four of the eight bolt heads had broken off in December of last year when I took the skids off. The ridiculous winter made me hold off on fixing this until now.

I was able to successfully drill out and tap three of them. I tapped the threads on the others and have seven out of eight with the new bolts.

I put anti-seize on all of the new bolts and am glad to know that I won't have to worry about stripping or breaking the bolts.

 

[J.A.]

Great! Glad it helped a bit.

 

[zopperman]

I'd like to add another solution if you are lazy like myself which will work for the front 2 bolts. Mine had sheared off so I punched them out with an air hammer. I stuck the point on the shank and gave it a few pops, the welded nut broke off the back and I'm using a standrad nut/bolt. Way easier than tapping. This will only work for bolts where you can access both sides. I will weld the nut in place eventually...

 

[Toydeluxe]

I guess I'm one of the less lucky ones.
Of the 4 bolts for the front/main skidplate, only 1 would tighten up with the new M8 bolts. When I tried cranking them down tight, the threads skipped. I guess I'll tap it to a M10, and see what happens. Might try use split washers and see if I can get away with less torque. It sure did seem like the metal of those nuts is really soft. It was pretty easy to tap.

 

[Dawgz]

these work well, from Fastenal.

SKU# M82580020A40000

M8-1.25 x 20mm DIN 933 A4-70
Stainless Steel Hex Cap Screw

 

[ncpinz]

^^ poster above...I would have put a flat washer under the bolt head. Its just good practice.

We pulled the aftermarket skids off my son's rig this weekend to do a transmission fluid change. One bolt got snapped off on the front skid. A portion of the bolt is showing so I'm going to get a local guy to weld a nut onto the remains and see if I can work it out.

All bolts were rusting and were replaced with M8x1.25 grade 8.8 stainless steel bolts and flat washers I found at Lowes.

 

[Utopia]

Pulled mine this weekend but I was lucky as none of seemed stripped and Toyota had it off last week to change the transaxle fluid.

 

[J.A.]

Pulled mine this weekend but I was lucky as none of seemed stripped and Toyota had it off last week to change the transaxle fluid.

Don't jinx it

 

[NinjaOne]

You guys make it sound sooo easy.

My two front bolts are missing. One of the weld nuts is missing and the other is sheered off with an "Ez-out" also sheered off inside of the bolt.

I didn't notice in time to get the mechanic who sheered if off to fix it. =/

 

[Dawgz]

^^ poster above...I would have put a flat washer under the bolt head. Its just good practice.

We pulled the aftermarket skids off my son's rig this weekend to do a transmission fluid change. One bolt got snapped off on the front skid. A portion of the bolt is showing so I'm going to get a local guy to weld a nut onto the remains and see if I can work it out.

All bolts were rusting and were replaced with M8x1.25 grade 8.8 stainless steel bolts and flat washers I found at Lowes.

Yea I have washers on them now, this was just a test fit.

 

[eaglesfish]

If anyone is wondering whether it makes a difference or not if all the front skid bolts are present or not, I had a slight high pitch noise when driving on the highway (>60 mph). The cause was from a small air gap between the skid plate and frame since one bolt was missing (front near bumper, passenger side bolt). Once I put a bolt in where it was missing, the noise went away. Hope this helps someone else.

 

[Gondi]

It is a well known issue that the factory skid plate bolts are self tapping and therefore easily cross threaded.

While I have heard of this issue since purchasing my 1999 4R 8 years ago, I never had any experience with it as I have always changed my oil myself, dropping the skids every time, and never had an issue at all. Just been very careful to hand thread them as much as possible before using the ratchet.

Now on my 2007 4R, I noticed immediatly when dropping the skids to install the lift kit that the 3 of the bolts were cross threaded from the factory. :bash: I did not address the issue until changing my oil for the first time as I didnt have the stuff on hand to fix the issue.

I thought I would post about this to inform others of how easy it really is to fix. I had never used a thread tap before and was worried that it would get screwed up even worse at first.

I picked up a set of craftsman thread taps at sears. The size you need is M8x1.25. Also a tap wrench and some cutting oil. And new bolts sized M8x1.25x25mm.

I picked up enough to replace all 8 bolts as the socket needed to undo these bolts is 13mm rather than the 12mm for the factory bolt heads. This way only one socket is needed while removing the skids.

Tapping the threaded bolt holes is very simple. Just put a some cutting oil on the tap and screw it into the hole slowly and be sure to keep the tap straight. It will self feed into the hole. As you sense resistance, back the tap out a half turn to break up any cuttings, then start to screw in again putting even pressure on both sides of the t-tap wrench handle.

On the front most holes of the factory skid plate (the ones with the hooks on it), I needed to use a dremel to widen the holes (in the skid, not the threaded mount) a hair as the hole is very tight and precise alignment of the skid and threaded hole must be made to avoid re cross threading.

Thats it very simple and the bolts went back in as they should.

Materials...

Note the factory bolts cross threaded...

Old but still useful post! Thanks!

 

[darkTangent]

I'm going to buy a set of these.

Alfa Romeo Body & Fender Bolts- Qty.15- M8-1.25x25mm- 13mm Hex- 24mm Washer-#169 | eBay

 

[L8Shift]

Great post! OP.. :trophy:

Stainless, flange, serrated.. M8s

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07874PBRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 :keyboard:

 

[Strider]

Very helpful post! Picked up 6 bolts with washers at Home Depot for $3-4. Both mine and my wife’s 4Runner are missing 2 of the bolts.

I still don’t understand outside of price why the frame or bolts on these things weren’t made of when possible a non corrosive metal or sprayed with something. I’m sure Toyota knows what it’s doing, but that’s been one of the drawbacks with these. Still love it and wouldn’t trade it though. Shoot, yesterday I was spraying primer and undercoating on the skid plate and other frame areas. It’s become a 3-6 routine mnt. Item.

 

[deegs]

Just did an oil change on my new (to me) truck and noticed a few of the bolts sheared off on the front spoiler. Are these the same size as the skid plate bolts? (8mm tap, M8-1.25x25)?

If I remember correctly, the 7 bolts on the spoiler were 10mm bolt heads while 4 on the skid plates were 12mm. Just making sure I don't need to pickup any more parts for when I take care of the next oil change.

Thanks all!
D

 

[5vzT4R]

Another option is just drilling out the old holes and putting any kind of bolt and nut in the factory holes for the skid plate. This is what I had to do, mine were damaged too much to re thread.

 

[digi]

Great post! OP.. :trophy:

Stainless, flange, serrated.. M8s

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07874PBRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 :keyboard:

That size will fit the stock size, correct? thank you very much

 

[L8Shift]

That size will fit the stock size, correct? thank you very much

Yes, those bolts fit the factory holes. (bolt size and thread pitch)