sandcrawler
Senior Member
which t-case skid is that?
Skid plate experiences
- Thread starter coltm4
- Start date
Jetboy
New member
It's one I built myself. It's kinda crude mostly due to my lack of a metal brake, but it cost next to nothing and works for me. There are quite a few people around here that push a lot harder than I do, so this type of skid isn't for everyone. If anyone wanted to build one I think I probably have the DXF file somewhere still to cut the plate you'd bend to make the shape. Pretty much any local cut shop can cut the blank for you. I think if you're outsourcing it you'd probably be better off buying a Trail Gear one and modifying it. Or going with one of the other systems.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/218259-minimalist-crossover-tcase-skid.html
wfo9
New member
I took the RCI tCase cross brace and modified it so it is raised up about an inch ( I could do this because I also re-routed the crossover pipe...) Talk about a huge difference on the trail.... It's now flat with the trans cross member... Really amazing what a difference such a small change made.
I actually run the aluminum skids. They are beat up good but still 100% functional. The span on the trans skid is the only real concern for durability.
The gas tank skid and the passenger side rear LCA bracket skid take the most abuse on my truck. Everything gets scraped here and there, but those are the most common spots.
CharlestonFisher
New member
My rig is lifted 2.5-3". I had it done professionally and it took a little bit to get used to. After a week I barely noticed. Wife wasn't thrilled, but again, after a week that went away. I replaced the UCAs, but I haven't experienced any additional maintenance issues. I've got 15,000 miles on them.
If you plan on doing any significant off-roading, you'll need a lift. Armor isn't going to prevent you from getting high centered on an obstacle. I'd rank sliders and winch before full skids.
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To be frank, lifts on these Runners don't improve performance that much offroad to say other vehicles like the JK (talking the most popular 2.5-3" lifts - nothing crazy). It gives you some better approach/decent angles, but nothing substantial. You go from a 265 > 285 tire, not substantial in terms of added ground clearance. Suspension articulation is better...but again, not night and day.
It not like when you lift a JK wrangler 2.5-3 inches, and fit 35" tires from a stock 32" inch tire. There you are gaining approx 1.5 inches of ground clearance...a lifted 285 4R is maybe gaining .5" ground clearance.
For western states, skids are more important in my opinion that east, southern, midwest states...you just don't have the obstacles/rough terrain that demands as much protection. Not saying there isn't any...but just speaking overall. The difference in performance between a lifted 4R and stock one (with good tires) is very marginal. The difference between a stock 4R and one with added protection (aftermarket skids/sliders) can make a world of difference when the times comes.
My buddy is a little too wild with his 2013 Trail....his stock front skid plate looks completely crushed in. The stock skids are fine for what I call cosmetic protection...but they will fold like a beer can if any real contact is met.
It not like when you lift a JK wrangler 2.5-3 inches, and fit 35" tires from a stock 32" inch tire. There you are gaining approx 1.5 inches of ground clearance...a lifted 285 4R is maybe gaining .5" ground clearance.
For western states, skids are more important in my opinion that east, southern, midwest states...you just don't have the obstacles/rough terrain that demands as much protection. Not saying there isn't any...but just speaking overall. The difference in performance between a lifted 4R and stock one (with good tires) is very marginal. The difference between a stock 4R and one with added protection (aftermarket skids/sliders) can make a world of difference when the times comes.
My buddy is a little too wild with his 2013 Trail....his stock front skid plate looks completely crushed in. The stock skids are fine for what I call cosmetic protection...but they will fold like a beer can if any real contact is met.
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wfo9
New member
I'll agree that just a lift won't turn your t4r into a JK... but it makes a substantial difference in what you can do. Offroading in extreme uneven terrain is literally a game of inches. Stock height can still go some places... but it will scrape and hang up all over the place. This is not theory.. it is easily proven with a little geometry. What has always surprised me though is how much difference just an inch can make. .
But you are right in that the biggest limiter on these trucks is travel (mainly droop) Increase that and it is a different animal (not easy up front with IFS)...
Engineer
New member
I don't know any man would wouldn't take another 1/2".......:bolt:
apollo
New member
evident in the replies in this thread is that so much of our performance criteria depends on our unique circumstance...geography, driving style and skill, cargo load weight, terrain, climate, familiarity or aversion to maintenance, expectation of reliability, ego, etc...all contribute to our ability to determine and prioritize our goals and understand the criteria necessary to achieve such
i like the look of a 2-3" lift, i admit--looks badass, however, i'm thinking through this very slowly before going that route because i understand the compromise with lifting a vehicle, and especially with lifting IFS...i'm not yet convinced that it is necessary for our particular needs, although it's leaning that direction...and honestly, something about doing things with a stock vehicle is satisfying and simple
similar thinking with armor in that, thus far, we've done quite well with the stock skids...a couple of bumps, but nothing that worries me to the point of immediately needing full skids...however, an experience on Black Gap Road in the less-traveled region of Big Bend a few years ago, in a different vehicle, educated me on the importance of transmission protection, and how a small slip of a tire from top of a rock can mean a big impact on the undercarriage (also educated me on importance of good tires)...so, i'm considering some additional protection for trans and transfer case...maybe before lift, maybe after
then with rock sliders, again, haven't had them...we've gone everywhere we want or need to go thus far without them and without damage...yet i know that a minor slip here or there could mean major damage to rocker panel...so i'm considering sliders even with the added weight
as mentioned, it's like the loose thread...in some ways, it makes sense to lift, armor, all at once and enjoy...in other ways, it makes sense to keep the engineered reliability and still get most places anyway with careful driving...the factor of increased weight for amor just magnifies the cargo weight and placement of that weight for our excursions...circling back to suspension upgrades...
all in, it's dependent on individual circumstances...we have a 4runner trail because it is the most spartan vehicle available with the closest off-road capability to a Jeep JK when we purchased that has good rear-seat safety ratings from IIHS...that is an important criteria for us, uniquely, for a very personal and important reason, that isn't prioritized by everyone...so i'm navigating the options
i like the look of a 2-3" lift, i admit--looks badass, however, i'm thinking through this very slowly before going that route because i understand the compromise with lifting a vehicle, and especially with lifting IFS...i'm not yet convinced that it is necessary for our particular needs, although it's leaning that direction...and honestly, something about doing things with a stock vehicle is satisfying and simple
similar thinking with armor in that, thus far, we've done quite well with the stock skids...a couple of bumps, but nothing that worries me to the point of immediately needing full skids...however, an experience on Black Gap Road in the less-traveled region of Big Bend a few years ago, in a different vehicle, educated me on the importance of transmission protection, and how a small slip of a tire from top of a rock can mean a big impact on the undercarriage (also educated me on importance of good tires)...so, i'm considering some additional protection for trans and transfer case...maybe before lift, maybe after
then with rock sliders, again, haven't had them...we've gone everywhere we want or need to go thus far without them and without damage...yet i know that a minor slip here or there could mean major damage to rocker panel...so i'm considering sliders even with the added weight
as mentioned, it's like the loose thread...in some ways, it makes sense to lift, armor, all at once and enjoy...in other ways, it makes sense to keep the engineered reliability and still get most places anyway with careful driving...the factor of increased weight for amor just magnifies the cargo weight and placement of that weight for our excursions...circling back to suspension upgrades...
all in, it's dependent on individual circumstances...we have a 4runner trail because it is the most spartan vehicle available with the closest off-road capability to a Jeep JK when we purchased that has good rear-seat safety ratings from IIHS...that is an important criteria for us, uniquely, for a very personal and important reason, that isn't prioritized by everyone...so i'm navigating the options
coltm4
New member
You pretty much sum up my issues. And I tend to agree a lift on our IFS is not as big a bang for buck as on a Jeep. That said, who wouldn't want even a 1/2" more? :hiding: My desire for a really modest lift really makes the lift too marginal a gain for me to justify this early on.
I'm not necessarily maintenance averse, but I don't like the idea of rebuilding uniballs (understanding there are other options) considering the reason why I bought a well engineered product to begin with, which is known for low maintenance needs. My thought on rock sliders and armor in general is that I need to protect what I have before I add "more" to the vehicle in the performance sense. What good is a lift if my doors don't open or come down hard on a rock with a lift and no armor?
Everyone has been super helpful thus far and I thank you for your input. Just trying to prioritize the mods.
Cymon
New member
When reading this it instantly made me remember our instructor Kyle's voice when my wife and I took a 4x4 101 course at Rausch creek off road course in Pennsylvania this past summer. He kept emphasizing "protect your investment".
That resonated with my wife and I throughout the day. It also has been the backbone of what I have done with my vehicle in terms of modifications. Adding protection has also been easier to get signed off by the wife for spending $ on as well. I know others on here will state that by adding a lift or suspension components you are in essence doing the same thing but I completely get where you are coming from as I have had the same approach with my truck.
Would I like a lift/suspension change? sure. Would it help off road? Absoultely! Will it be a benefit the extra 99% of the time I'm on road? Debateable. When I look at the cost/benefit for "Me" and how I use my truck is it worth the financial investment? Not at this time.
Just my .02, and a long winded way of saying I get what your doing and agree with your approach.
Jono.ful
New member
Completely incorrect. While I do not doubt that you have no had issues with your UCA's yet, you will eventually. The uniballs and bushings are consumable parts, meaning they wear with use. With moderate trail use, I find I get about 18 months out of uniballs (uca's seem to wear more quickly than lca's), and bushings last about 24 months. In the intrim, both the uniballs and bushings require lubrication, especially after fording deep water (as does the drive shaft).
New parts on a '15 just haven't seen enough use to wear to the point where they start making noise.
mwray8909
New member
This is the stock skid that I hammer out here and there. I took a HARD hit at rowher on Thursday. The stock skids are almost as strong as the aluminum ones I think. I have are ton of confidence in the stock skid.
There's not supposed to be a gap at the front
Just behind the KDSS it is creased up where it should be flat
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There's not supposed to be a gap at the front
Just behind the KDSS it is creased up where it should be flat
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Jono.ful
New member
Can't for the life of me find the image now, but when I was shopping for new skids a couple months ago, one manufacturer had an image of a 4r with a tire on one of their upside down aluminum radiator skids to illustrate the strength. Not to belabour the point too much, but the stock skids are tin foil compared to a decent aftermarket setup, steel or aluminum.
Cymon
New member
Correct, the stock skids are certainly more malleable, but that does not necessarily correlate to stronger.
e60ral
Banned
If you stick your head up there and look it's a pretty good gap to the sway bar, like at least an inch
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Unless you think you'll absolutely be scraping your skids along those rocks, I would say the stock skids are fine. Sure, they aren't as robust as the aftermarket offerings, but they work for anything short of MOAB-like terrain.
LandCruiser
New member
I've been running the stock skids.
I've replaced the engine plate with one I found at a junkyard--those places usually have a good supply of undamaged Toyota skids.
I've replaced the engine plate with one I found at a junkyard--those places usually have a good supply of undamaged Toyota skids.
