Slider mounting? Time sensitive

ARC

New member
Will be dropping my runner off in a few hours to get sliders fabbed and mounted. Been looking at a lot of threads trying to find as much info as possible finalize design before leaving it at the shop. One question I have not found an answer to is how much room is needed between the slider leg and the pinch weld?
 
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2nd?

Also the guy doing the work is very knowledgeable, but admits he has more experience with uni-bodys (Heeps). He suggested putting the main square tube directly under the pinch weld as he usually does on uni-body projects. I think this makes sense for them since the body/frame flex together not like our vehicles where body and frame can move some what independently. So unless some one can convince me otherwise I am going to ask him to make the legs long enough to put the main tube just outboard of the pinch weld.
 
You're going to get a lot of different opinions. None of them are wrong. I like my sliders high and tight - this gives more clearance before the sliders have to get busy, but it also means I'm more likely to take damage to my door or quarterpanel. I'm good with that, but if you aren't, then you definitely want the main tube outside the body seam.

Either way you want them nice and high. Measure where the legs will intersect the body seam, and then cut out or pound flat those portions of the seam. Give yourself maybe a 1/2" of room for the legs to flex a little bit, and you should be good to go.
 
You're going to get a lot of different opinions. None of them are wrong. I like my sliders high and tight - this gives more clearance before the sliders have to get busy, but it also means I'm more likely to take damage to my door or quarterpanel. I'm good with that, but if you aren't, then you definitely want the main tube outside the body seam.

Either way you want them nice and high. Measure where the legs will intersect the body seam, and then cut out or pound flat those portions of the seam. Give yourself maybe a 1/2" of room for the legs to flex a little bit, and you should be good to go.

Kevin, thanks for the fast reply. I was thinking about 1/2" sounded about right and will likely have to notch the pinch weld just a bit to make it happen. Definitely want them high and right but don't want the slider flexing up into to rocker panel.

Anyone else?
 
I mounted mine about 1/2" from the pinch weld. I also had the first tube directly under the pinch weld. This allowed me to fully protect the body panels, and allow the kickout to push away from the back tire.



 
I mounted mine about 1/2" from the pinch weld. I also had the first tube directly under the pinch weld. This allowed me to fully protect the body panels, and allow the kickout to push away from the back tire.




Do yours have any angle up? Your kickout seems like it would perform well like you said but your whole slider seems too far out for my wheeling style.

Thanks for the info!
 
I do not have angle up. I mounted mine so they would double as steps for my wife to get in, so they are perfectly horizontal.
I only get out to wheel a few times a year, so I needed them more for steps than protection...although they have definitely saved the body a few times out.
 
I would say to follow BAMF Offroad's slider designs and grab 2 jack stands and prop the sliders at various heights prior to welding the legs to the frame. Don't feel like your irritating the shop workers by being specific and changing your mind, it's YOUR vehicle, you'll drive it and look at it everyday.

We can't tell you what you'll like. Some of us here are 4'11" and range to around 6'4". We will all have our own opinions. Decide whether your sliders will protect you from rocks or if it'll be used for more of an aggressive looking step. Then go from there.

Good luck bud!
 
Thanks guys. These will be used as sliders since this is my trail truck. Unfortunately I don't think I'll be able to be there for a lot of the build so I am hoping to communicate everything I want really well before I go and then trust the professionals expertise for the rest. Any more
Input is appreciated.
 
9e8e3eja.jpg


I put my TG sliders up tight (about 1/4" away) and it rubs like crazy on the welds. I'm getting a body lift soon though so it will fix that issue. I would go 1/2" next time and I think that would be perfect.
 
9e8e3eja.jpg


I put my TG sliders up tight (about 1/4" away) and it rubs like crazy on the welds. I'm getting a body lift soon though so it will fix that issue. I would go 1/2" next time and I think that would be perfect.

Thanks for all the input guys, I dropped it off and am very confident I am going to be happy with the results. I will upload pics when complete.
 
Thanks for all the input guys, I dropped it off and am very confident I am going to be happy with the results. I will upload pics when complete.

hey arc, your 1/2" plan sounds good. but for some reason they rub or you are not satisfied, let me know ill hook you up with a 1/2" body lift or any other size for that matter.

be sure to post pic when you get the truck back!!! :hungry:
 
Ideal set up is 1/2" gap between the main tube and the pinch seam with the main tube directly beneath the pinch seam, that way if the slider flexes enough the contact the body the blow will be evenly distributed along the entire rocker panel and likely do no damage at all.

Now, so many of our customers place so much emphasis on the slider being able to be used as a step that we cant always to this, so not all of our are built this way. Just decide how you want your sliders to preform and go from there. Like I said though, the above mentioned set up is IDEAL for strength and function for a rock slider, that is being used as a rock slider.
 
Picked it up and am very happy with the results. Will put an update up later this evening. Thanks everyone for you help.
 
As promised here are some pictures. They aren't great quality as I was rushed for time. I think they came out great; subtle, strong, and functional.

As you can see ended up going with a very simple design. After mocking a few things up this morning I the decided less is more slider fit my build the best. They are designed so that in the future I can use them as base to build off of pretty easily.

On to the PICS!







 
Those are good looking welds. I think you picked a good shop.

Ugh...now I have to add sliders to my "wish list". You guys are killing me.

Why? If you were wheeling hard enough to need sliders they would have been on your wish list a long time ago. You know your truck isn't a dress-up doll, right?
 
Considering I'm new to the 4 wheeling realm and my truck has only seen dirt when pulling into my in-laws driveway so far I'm on the learning curve side of things right now. I do plan on wheeling it in the near future just because I love getting away from the crowd when I go camping.

Besides, I'm not really feeling the way the stock step rails look. Too much "soccer mom" style for my tastes. I always go for functional over looks given the chance as well.

And my comment was meant as a compliment to ARC's setup. Looks RTG (Ready To Go) and sturdy.
 
Considering I'm new to the 4 wheeling realm and my truck has only seen dirt when pulling into my in-laws driveway so far I'm on the learning curve side of things right now.

Cool. A friend of mine decided to leave the steps on while he shopped for a set of rock rails - the "factory sliders" (his words) kept his rockers intact while he shopped, but they didn't survive the experience :).

Don't wait for the mods - get on a trail and get your truck dirty.
 

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