zgensler31
Senior Member
Is this just the radiator for a manual trans 3.4l? Does it have the tyranny cooler in it?
Sniv's Custom Long Travel Build
- Thread starter snivilous
- Start date
Is this just the radiator for a manual trans 3.4l? Does it have the tyranny cooler in it?
4Running Daily
New member
You won't be able to tell a difference. Running a different temperature T-stat will net you a more noticeable difference.
Nice work on the heads so far Sniv!
Last edited:
snivilous
Senior Member
I thought it was a manual radiator originally, looking back I guess it's a 2WD auto radiator. So it has a tranny cooler integral too it, but for some reason it's smaller for the 2WD...
Thanks man! This is probably the worst job I've had to do so far, I would much rather drop the tranny than go through this again :wacko:
snivilous
Senior Member
Just got done pulling the heads off.
Drivers side
Passenger side
I guess I'll vacuum them out and soak up the oil. I'm not sure why the passenger side is so nasty, the middle cylinder just has dirt in it from pulling the head off and dirt and shit falling everywhere.
I had to unbolt the exhaust manifold from the downpipe since I couldn't get to the manifold-head bolts, then had to unbolt the downpipe from the rear of the exhaust because there wasn't enough play in the exhaust to get the heads over the alignment pins... And in that process I ended up shearing off one of the exhaust studs on the downpipe/rear exhaust coupler. Luckily that was my only exhaust bolt issue (so far).
Getting lunch and buying some calipers, since I have to swap shit over to the new heads I may as well see if any of the lifter shims are thicker to fix the ones on the new heads that are out of spec.
Finally I reached the peak of the journey, everything from here on out is reassembly!
Drivers side
Passenger side
I guess I'll vacuum them out and soak up the oil. I'm not sure why the passenger side is so nasty, the middle cylinder just has dirt in it from pulling the head off and dirt and shit falling everywhere.
I had to unbolt the exhaust manifold from the downpipe since I couldn't get to the manifold-head bolts, then had to unbolt the downpipe from the rear of the exhaust because there wasn't enough play in the exhaust to get the heads over the alignment pins... And in that process I ended up shearing off one of the exhaust studs on the downpipe/rear exhaust coupler. Luckily that was my only exhaust bolt issue (so far).
Getting lunch and buying some calipers, since I have to swap shit over to the new heads I may as well see if any of the lifter shims are thicker to fix the ones on the new heads that are out of spec.
Finally I reached the peak of the journey, everything from here on out is reassembly!
snivilous
Senior Member
Heads prepped and ready
Dropped on, and getting the stupid upper idler pulley on. Some people said you could rotate the AC compressor out of the way, how you would do that I have no idea, let alone reach the bolts. I had to unbolt the compressor and the bracket, which has like 7 bolts holding it to the block, and finally could loosen the tensioner. Luckily I didn't have to pull it off and compress it, I was able to get enough play by loosening the bolts to get the idler pulley on and then just torqued it back down.
My beautiful work place. It started raining today, I liked it a lot more when it was snowing since now I get soaked. Still need to crawl under the truck to bolt the exhaust together, that'll be fun.
And this is how I left the engine today.
Mainly just have to go back through my photos and figure out where all the hoses and stuff goes. I should be cranking it over tomorrow afternoon, and hopefully everything goes smoothly!
Dropped on, and getting the stupid upper idler pulley on. Some people said you could rotate the AC compressor out of the way, how you would do that I have no idea, let alone reach the bolts. I had to unbolt the compressor and the bracket, which has like 7 bolts holding it to the block, and finally could loosen the tensioner. Luckily I didn't have to pull it off and compress it, I was able to get enough play by loosening the bolts to get the idler pulley on and then just torqued it back down.
My beautiful work place. It started raining today, I liked it a lot more when it was snowing since now I get soaked. Still need to crawl under the truck to bolt the exhaust together, that'll be fun.
And this is how I left the engine today.
Mainly just have to go back through my photos and figure out where all the hoses and stuff goes. I should be cranking it over tomorrow afternoon, and hopefully everything goes smoothly!
snivilous
Senior Member
snivilous
Senior Member
Hahaha thanks man! Yea, everything I've done is just using the tools I carry in the runner all the time, and most of those are from my Crescent tool set. And that's a good analogy! What I hated about this is the lack of upgrades I did, like you said, usually I go fast and break something and come back with something stronger or better--all I got out of this whole fiasco was "upgrading" to a shorter radiator as a band aid fix until I get new skids. Oh well :/
snivilous
Senior Member
I got the engine back together today. First time trying to crank it and it started puking fuel everywhere. At first I was scared I had blown a head gasket or something horrible until I checked the coolant and oil and they were at the same level, then I realized it was fuel. Turns out one of the fuel injector top o-rings had moved off of its groove and been shoved down so the injector wasn't sealing with the fuel rail.
Round two of trying to get it to start and I still have nothing. The crank is definitely spinning, it definitely has fuel pressure, definitely has air, not sure on spark yet since my girlfriend is at work so I don't have anyone to crank it so I can test the plugs. Truck doesn't even sound like it's trying, it's just cranking but not even a burble of trying which makes me think it's an electrical issue. I talked to my dad and he said I should check my fuses, which I had totally ignored. 7 hours of working on the truck made me tired so I'll check it out in the morning, I'm guessing it is a fuse or something simple. The fact the engine won't even fire on one cylinder makes sense that it would be a fuse shutting everything down.
By the way, if anyone knows of a part number for the exhaust crossover gasket, let me know. I went to O'reilly and they ordered some other gasket after I grabbed two that didn't work. I might just go to the dealership, in the meantime I'll just have a loud exhaust for the first time ever. Hopefully get the beast cruising tomorrow!
Round two of trying to get it to start and I still have nothing. The crank is definitely spinning, it definitely has fuel pressure, definitely has air, not sure on spark yet since my girlfriend is at work so I don't have anyone to crank it so I can test the plugs. Truck doesn't even sound like it's trying, it's just cranking but not even a burble of trying which makes me think it's an electrical issue. I talked to my dad and he said I should check my fuses, which I had totally ignored. 7 hours of working on the truck made me tired so I'll check it out in the morning, I'm guessing it is a fuse or something simple. The fact the engine won't even fire on one cylinder makes sense that it would be a fuse shutting everything down.
By the way, if anyone knows of a part number for the exhaust crossover gasket, let me know. I went to O'reilly and they ordered some other gasket after I grabbed two that didn't work. I might just go to the dealership, in the meantime I'll just have a loud exhaust for the first time ever. Hopefully get the beast cruising tomorrow!
Unner
New member
Glad to hear you got it all back together. Go over and check all your plugs around the throttle body and stuff. You may have missed one there since our 2001's are drive by wire so we have a lot more electrical connections. Good news is it sounds like a simple issue hopefully. Good luck!
Cartzo
New member
I have that tarp
Shoulda grabbed our creeper from my moms! That's funny the injectors weren't seated properly. Exact same thing happened to me the first time I put the 22RE back together
My beautiful work place. It started raining today, I liked it a lot more when it was snowing since now I get soaked. Still need to crawl under the truck to bolt the exhaust together, that'll be fun.
Working like a boss out in the weather. You are one tough dude!
rideexileex
Senior Member
I have that tarp
I must be getting old... I found the cheap anti-fatigue mats from HF are great for working out on the cold pavement
snivilous
Senior Member
I didn't know those were a thing haha. It wasn't that bad honestly, though I was wearing a sweater plus a jacket and fleece pants under cargo pants. I had my warmest and most padded gear for working outside so I wouldn't freeze.
snivilous
Senior Member
So! IT RUNS!!!!!!! 
-- For anyone who doesn't want to read all of this, I have a question: what is the sensor that plugs into the power steering pump? It's one wire, and I ripped the plug off of it, what does it do and is it important?
And what a cluster it was to get it going. So I checked the fuses, needless to say that didn't help at all. I spent all day today working on it today, checking everything. Checked the fuses again. Checked to make sure the air intake was all clear. Checked for fuel. Checked for spark. Cranked it over and it started puking fuel out of the exhaust. The crossover pipe isn't bolted into the rear of the exhaust since I can't find the right gasket, so at the flange there, there was literally fuel dripping out of it. So somehow I ended up flooding the engine, so pulled the plugs and let it air out. I've come to truly hate the intake plenum. I pulled the timing cover and checked the camshaft position sensor since I had pulled it off, but it appeared to be fine. I talked to my dad, and he thought maybe I just wasn't getting a good crank/spark since I was using my jump start unit plus jumpers to my girlfriends car, and even that wasn't great (remember the old battery is stone cold dead, not even enough juice to illuminate the "doors open" light on the dash).
I bought a new battery, threw it in, cranked it a bunch until it started puking gas again. Gave up and went inside and did a quick search of the engine not starting but having fuel, air, and spark. I saw a thread where a guy said to check the camshafts, and make sure that one dot was aligned with a double dot :ybrick:
And therein lies my issues! I 100% blame this on my Haynes manual. In the manual it says in one spot, with a terrible picture, "line up the dots on the cams". What I assumed this meant, after doing everything I could to figure out the stupid photo, was that one dot lines up with one dot, and the double dots line up with the double dots--after all, it said line up the dots, not mix and match them. Thank god we have interference engines! It totally makes sense too, my exhaust cams were 180 degrees out of time, which meant that on the compression stroke the exhaust valves were opening and all the fuel being sprayed into the cylinder was being shoved out the exhaust by the piston--meaning, all the fuel was being dumped into the exhaust and there was no gas or compression for the spark plugs to ignite.
So I tore the intake down again, pulled my valve covers off, yanked the exhaust cams and rotated them 180 degrees, threw it back together and she fired up after 10 seconds! In retrospect it's kinda obvious, and could of easily been figured out by a compression test. I had the mindset that the heads were totally fine, and that I had an issue of not putting all the hoses and plugs back together. I mean the heads themselves are pretty straightforward, and like I said, I thought I had lined the cams up correctly.
Anyways, she runs! When I was doing the passenger side valve cover, I pulled the plug off of the temp gauge sensor since I had pulled the wiring harness up which the plug is attached too. In my attempt to plug it back in, since the metal tab for the plug is so wimpy, it snapped off so that's great. I also had the wire rip out of the plug that goes into the power steering pump (does anyone know what this even does, it's one wire?). Also, my lower radiator hose blew. I went to O'reilly the other day to get a new hose for the shorter radiator, and the woman was kinda dumb and couldn't just get me a new hose, so she got me this retarded inner tube piece so I could cut out a section of the stock hose and essentially splice the two ends together, and that broke as soon as the system built pressure. And then lastly, my crossover pipe isn't bolted on still because I don't have a gasket as I said.
Tomorrow I'll try to find a good radiator hose and fix some of the other shit and drive it around a bit. It's super loud obviously. Honestly I think it's the best sound I've ever heard from the 3.4, all the mufflers are annoying and don't sound good I think, which is why I've always kept the stock one. Needless to say having essentially open headers sounds extremely mean and powerful haha
Hopefully get some pictures up soon
-- For anyone who doesn't want to read all of this, I have a question: what is the sensor that plugs into the power steering pump? It's one wire, and I ripped the plug off of it, what does it do and is it important?And what a cluster it was to get it going. So I checked the fuses, needless to say that didn't help at all. I spent all day today working on it today, checking everything. Checked the fuses again. Checked to make sure the air intake was all clear. Checked for fuel. Checked for spark. Cranked it over and it started puking fuel out of the exhaust. The crossover pipe isn't bolted into the rear of the exhaust since I can't find the right gasket, so at the flange there, there was literally fuel dripping out of it. So somehow I ended up flooding the engine, so pulled the plugs and let it air out. I've come to truly hate the intake plenum. I pulled the timing cover and checked the camshaft position sensor since I had pulled it off, but it appeared to be fine. I talked to my dad, and he thought maybe I just wasn't getting a good crank/spark since I was using my jump start unit plus jumpers to my girlfriends car, and even that wasn't great (remember the old battery is stone cold dead, not even enough juice to illuminate the "doors open" light on the dash).
I bought a new battery, threw it in, cranked it a bunch until it started puking gas again. Gave up and went inside and did a quick search of the engine not starting but having fuel, air, and spark. I saw a thread where a guy said to check the camshafts, and make sure that one dot was aligned with a double dot :ybrick:
And therein lies my issues! I 100% blame this on my Haynes manual. In the manual it says in one spot, with a terrible picture, "line up the dots on the cams". What I assumed this meant, after doing everything I could to figure out the stupid photo, was that one dot lines up with one dot, and the double dots line up with the double dots--after all, it said line up the dots, not mix and match them. Thank god we have interference engines! It totally makes sense too, my exhaust cams were 180 degrees out of time, which meant that on the compression stroke the exhaust valves were opening and all the fuel being sprayed into the cylinder was being shoved out the exhaust by the piston--meaning, all the fuel was being dumped into the exhaust and there was no gas or compression for the spark plugs to ignite.
So I tore the intake down again, pulled my valve covers off, yanked the exhaust cams and rotated them 180 degrees, threw it back together and she fired up after 10 seconds! In retrospect it's kinda obvious, and could of easily been figured out by a compression test. I had the mindset that the heads were totally fine, and that I had an issue of not putting all the hoses and plugs back together. I mean the heads themselves are pretty straightforward, and like I said, I thought I had lined the cams up correctly.
Anyways, she runs! When I was doing the passenger side valve cover, I pulled the plug off of the temp gauge sensor since I had pulled the wiring harness up which the plug is attached too. In my attempt to plug it back in, since the metal tab for the plug is so wimpy, it snapped off so that's great. I also had the wire rip out of the plug that goes into the power steering pump (does anyone know what this even does, it's one wire?). Also, my lower radiator hose blew. I went to O'reilly the other day to get a new hose for the shorter radiator, and the woman was kinda dumb and couldn't just get me a new hose, so she got me this retarded inner tube piece so I could cut out a section of the stock hose and essentially splice the two ends together, and that broke as soon as the system built pressure. And then lastly, my crossover pipe isn't bolted on still because I don't have a gasket as I said.
Tomorrow I'll try to find a good radiator hose and fix some of the other shit and drive it around a bit. It's super loud obviously. Honestly I think it's the best sound I've ever heard from the 3.4, all the mufflers are annoying and don't sound good I think, which is why I've always kept the stock one. Needless to say having essentially open headers sounds extremely mean and powerful haha
Hopefully get some pictures up soon
rideexileex
Senior Member
Was it a pink wire? My schematic shows a "power steering oil pressure switch"
snivilous
Senior Member
Yea, I think it was red-ish. That sounds right, and it sounds like something I should fix. Thank you sir!
solsnowbarger
New member
Congrats man! That's a feat for being done in below freezing temps outside. And I can't lie, that does sound awesome.
Similar threads
