4Running Daily
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I think [MENTION=100116]D Farms[/MENTION] and I are going to try and build some stock length Lower Control arms pretty soon
Sniv's Custom Long Travel Build
- Thread starter snivilous
- Start date
4Running Daily
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snivilous
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Called the shop up today about my wheels, they called back saying they're getting here tomorrow. Turns out tomorrow was today :boink:
I probably won't install them until I buy new tires. I want to make sure the truck is running well and not have an extra new part in that makes diagnostic work harder. Anyways, this week is getting good fast :banana:
I probably won't install them until I buy new tires. I want to make sure the truck is running well and not have an extra new part in that makes diagnostic work harder. Anyways, this week is getting good fast :banana:
snivilous
Senior Member
She fired right up on the first try and backed out of the garage!
I extended the sensor wire on the tranny and the alternator to fuse box (I think) power wire, then had to tap 3 holes into the shock cage for the fuse/battery grounds, welded the cage in a little, extended one of the intake hoses and an emissions hose, and then put the passenger side together.
No real issues, I had forgot I stuffed a paper towel in the throttle body so that screwed me up a little but the engine didn't suck it in. I had even thought yesterday to not forget to remove that :ybrick:
The tranny seems to be fine. I haven't driven it more than 30 feet since it started raining a little and not everything has been fully painted so don't want to get it wet if I can avoid it. The tranny seemed to engage fast and firmly, and isn't making any screeching noises like before. I'll go on a more in depth test drive soon and slowly advance from there. I seem to have plugged everything back together correctly, no check engine lights or weird codes. I didn't plug the front ABS sensors in yet, so have those lights but otherwise so far (knock on wood) she seems good.
Everything is zip tied for the moment, and obviously the reservoirs are just laying up top (will probably mount them to the frame like before). Soon I'll replace all the zip ties with good mounting brackets and grommets, though it's already a vast de-gheto-ization of how the engine bay was.
Ride height (currently)
So as of July 31st:
New engine oil/filter, new tranny oil/filter, new torque converter, new CV differential seals, new CVs, new power steering fluid, new brake fluid, new brake line on drivers side, bump stops, shock cage, springs, limit straps, extended various hoses and plugs and wires for routing.
Bumper is super rusted, until I mount the shocks I'll just leave them up top thus no hood, and leaving the fenders off since they'll just be a pain in the ass while I still have stuff to touch up. Hopefully get some neat pictures later on showing how the suspension is. In less than two weeks I'm going to Salt Lake for a wedding and want to bring the 4Runner for a long distance test, so that's my deadline for wrapping up most of the stuff.
I extended the sensor wire on the tranny and the alternator to fuse box (I think) power wire, then had to tap 3 holes into the shock cage for the fuse/battery grounds, welded the cage in a little, extended one of the intake hoses and an emissions hose, and then put the passenger side together.
No real issues, I had forgot I stuffed a paper towel in the throttle body so that screwed me up a little but the engine didn't suck it in. I had even thought yesterday to not forget to remove that :ybrick:
The tranny seems to be fine. I haven't driven it more than 30 feet since it started raining a little and not everything has been fully painted so don't want to get it wet if I can avoid it. The tranny seemed to engage fast and firmly, and isn't making any screeching noises like before. I'll go on a more in depth test drive soon and slowly advance from there. I seem to have plugged everything back together correctly, no check engine lights or weird codes. I didn't plug the front ABS sensors in yet, so have those lights but otherwise so far (knock on wood) she seems good.
Everything is zip tied for the moment, and obviously the reservoirs are just laying up top (will probably mount them to the frame like before). Soon I'll replace all the zip ties with good mounting brackets and grommets, though it's already a vast de-gheto-ization of how the engine bay was.
Ride height (currently)
So as of July 31st:
New engine oil/filter, new tranny oil/filter, new torque converter, new CV differential seals, new CVs, new power steering fluid, new brake fluid, new brake line on drivers side, bump stops, shock cage, springs, limit straps, extended various hoses and plugs and wires for routing.
Bumper is super rusted, until I mount the shocks I'll just leave them up top thus no hood, and leaving the fenders off since they'll just be a pain in the ass while I still have stuff to touch up. Hopefully get some neat pictures later on showing how the suspension is. In less than two weeks I'm going to Salt Lake for a wedding and want to bring the 4Runner for a long distance test, so that's my deadline for wrapping up most of the stuff.
snivilous
Senior Member
The UCA have adjustable heims, so I can screw in/out one or both to adjust camber or caster.
farmerjon
Senior Member
Sweet, sweet, sweet! I keep checking your build when it pops up, hoping to see this closer to being finish - am not disappointed with this last round of updates. I know that feeling of something starting right up on first try after having it all apart - nothing like that, eh?
Keep it up - I like how beefy this setup looks, but also very clean and thoughtfully laid out (like the engine cross braces and how the cage looks when it is together). Should be a pretty unstoppable setup!
Keep it up - I like how beefy this setup looks, but also very clean and thoughtfully laid out (like the engine cross braces and how the cage looks when it is together). Should be a pretty unstoppable setup!
snivilous
Senior Member
Thanks man! First go through of the LT was to get the performance, and this summer has all been about making it properly reliable now. Maybe someday you and I can meet up for a trip since I'll be heading through WY soon to go back to USU.
snivilous
Senior Member
Gone on a few drives. After my first trip into town I went and did my usual national forest loop that connects with my road. Near the end I was checking everything and the radiator was leaking. New one should be here tomorrow, pretty sure it just failed from not being used for 8 months and then with a little pressure it blew. Not a super bad leak, I drove it yesterday on the same loop with my girlfriend and today we took it to another spot with a lot of dips and took a little video that I'll post later so I could see how the suspension is doing.
Three times now I've had the engine totally stop, I didn't lose power but the engine just stops. Nothing consistent about it either, it seems like if I hit the right frequency something rattles and stops making contact for a second since today we hit some stuff hard and nothing but then got on the dirt road and it died. Probably just an electrical connection I'll have to chase down, everything I extended I soldered though and all the grounds are bolted through a tapped hole into the engine cage which the battery directly grounds too also. Otherwise, I extended that fusebox power line that snakes into the top and the fusebox plug so I'll start there...
Otherwise the front end is working great. Need to extend the lower uniball bolts so I can run some castle nuts on them. Next week I plan to get some reservoir mounts to put on the frame, I'm also think I can stuff the 600lb/in x 10" spring I bought into the shock if I use the truck to initially compress the 800lb/in so we'll see how that works. Though having the 500 as a tender and already bottomed out so the 800 is always engaged at ride height is feeling really good actually on and off road. Valving in the front isn't great offroad, but it's easily 10x smoother than anything else I've ever ridden in which I'm happy about and onroad it's smoother than our 4th gen or tundra so I'm happy about that too.
The rear is obviously a big issue still. I was going to buy 35s next week but going to hold off and put the skinnies on the beadlocks after I get back from my trip to Utah next week since they have 90% tread. Then I'm gonna buy some 2.5 resi shocks for the back, not sure what brand I'll go with yet... and then probably get some hydros too. I know, not a great setup with the stock links but I hit the rear bump stops every time I've gone out since the valving isn't good--I've hit the front bumps only once and that was today, and I only used about 3/8" of their travel--point being I need to upgrade the rear much more than upgrade the tires. Anyways, here's a few photos and I'll post that video later for anyone interested in seeing the suspension in action a little, don't get too excited though, it's fairly anticlimactic.
Three times now I've had the engine totally stop, I didn't lose power but the engine just stops. Nothing consistent about it either, it seems like if I hit the right frequency something rattles and stops making contact for a second since today we hit some stuff hard and nothing but then got on the dirt road and it died. Probably just an electrical connection I'll have to chase down, everything I extended I soldered though and all the grounds are bolted through a tapped hole into the engine cage which the battery directly grounds too also. Otherwise, I extended that fusebox power line that snakes into the top and the fusebox plug so I'll start there...
Otherwise the front end is working great. Need to extend the lower uniball bolts so I can run some castle nuts on them. Next week I plan to get some reservoir mounts to put on the frame, I'm also think I can stuff the 600lb/in x 10" spring I bought into the shock if I use the truck to initially compress the 800lb/in so we'll see how that works. Though having the 500 as a tender and already bottomed out so the 800 is always engaged at ride height is feeling really good actually on and off road. Valving in the front isn't great offroad, but it's easily 10x smoother than anything else I've ever ridden in which I'm happy about and onroad it's smoother than our 4th gen or tundra so I'm happy about that too.
The rear is obviously a big issue still. I was going to buy 35s next week but going to hold off and put the skinnies on the beadlocks after I get back from my trip to Utah next week since they have 90% tread. Then I'm gonna buy some 2.5 resi shocks for the back, not sure what brand I'll go with yet... and then probably get some hydros too. I know, not a great setup with the stock links but I hit the rear bump stops every time I've gone out since the valving isn't good--I've hit the front bumps only once and that was today, and I only used about 3/8" of their travel--point being I need to upgrade the rear much more than upgrade the tires. Anyways, here's a few photos and I'll post that video later for anyone interested in seeing the suspension in action a little, don't get too excited though, it's fairly anticlimactic.
4Running Daily
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I'm telling you to run ADS, you won't regret it 
4Running Daily
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I see what you mean about the ass end haha
snivilous
Senior Member
Where did you purchase your ADS shocks from?
4Running Daily
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snivilous
Senior Member
New radiator arrived and swapped it in. Also did a quick analysis of some grade 5 castle nuts I had for the lower uniball bolt, and they should stand up to higher loads than the LCA before they tear out so I put those on and drilled the bolts that were in there for cotter pins.
Drove into town and for the first time in awhile the runner got a full tank of gas. On the way home my girlfriend and snivilous and I ran the national forest loop in reverse. I need to put a lot of time on the new suspension and figure out where I want to go with tuning it. Big hits are amazingly smooth, but I think the "small" stuff can be tuned out. Super small stuff like washboard and cracks are (or nearly) non-existent feeling though. The rear is awful of course and I felt bad for snivilous riding in the back seat since the rear hit HARD at one point and even ripped one of the ABS lines since my speedometer went dead.
[MENTION=75445]4Running Daily[/MENTION] I couldn't find any smooth body resi shocks from ADS anywhere, it appears they make air shocks and bypasses and coilovers but not just a normal shock? Am I missing something?
Planning to order shocks this weekend for the rear and bumps. I'll need to build a new bash plate for the front before I go to school since I'm worried about hitting the radiator since I have so much up travel. Lots to do.
Drove into town and for the first time in awhile the runner got a full tank of gas. On the way home my girlfriend and snivilous and I ran the national forest loop in reverse. I need to put a lot of time on the new suspension and figure out where I want to go with tuning it. Big hits are amazingly smooth, but I think the "small" stuff can be tuned out. Super small stuff like washboard and cracks are (or nearly) non-existent feeling though. The rear is awful of course and I felt bad for snivilous riding in the back seat since the rear hit HARD at one point and even ripped one of the ABS lines since my speedometer went dead.
[MENTION=75445]4Running Daily[/MENTION] I couldn't find any smooth body resi shocks from ADS anywhere, it appears they make air shocks and bypasses and coilovers but not just a normal shock? Am I missing something?
Planning to order shocks this weekend for the rear and bumps. I'll need to build a new bash plate for the front before I go to school since I'm worried about hitting the radiator since I have so much up travel. Lots to do.
4Running Daily
New member
You can't really find their catalog online. You can call Downsouth and they have the catalog, or you can just write down collapsed and extended length you want, what diameter shock, and how you would like the reservoir mounted and DSM can order it for you. You can get anything because every shock is built to order
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