shootmymime
New member
Chilling with Toby for the weekend!
Sniv's Custom Long Travel Build
- Thread starter snivilous
- Start date
shootmymime
New member
D Farms
New member
Hey toby, if you want a shorter light bar, it is actually pretty easy to chop off about 10 inches, on the inside they use a board for every 10 inches and you can just cut the aluminum heatsink on the back. then you can have a 40" bar on top and make some end covers for the 10" section and put that part somewhere else.
D Farms
New member
Im only a small town pizza lawyer, but If you change the angle of the uniball cups so they are horizontal to the ground at ride height you will get the magic 50/50 of up and down travel. or just give them a bit more clearance before they bind at the max droop you want.
shootmymime
New member
One problem. Like on mine I have the combo style bar. It would look weird if I took the left side flood off to shorten it.
D Farms
New member
One problem. Like on mine I have the combo style bar. It would look weird if I took the left side flood off to shorten it.
you can rearange the reflectors quite easily, just move them.
snivilous
Senior Member
Not entirely true. Droop/bump ratio is based on desired ride height. Right now my uniballs do limit me, true, and I will be running a horizontal setup in the future. However I have 4-5" of droop travel and then the CV starts to get unhappy and binding up, however on my up travel that is purely limited by the uniball and the CV is totally fine at full bump. So if I run a horizontal uniball I would potentially gain more up travel, but not more down travel (and consequentially I still wouldn't have a 50/50 ratio). I'm not sure if a 50/50 setup is realistic since I've never been around an LT setup I didn't design, but I think the main driver is my geometry is out of wack and limiting my down travel--so you're right that a horizontal uniball setup will pull me more travel, but it's a bit more complicated than just giving the joints "unlimited" travel.
Another way to think of it is ideally the CV limits your up travel and down travel, but if you are lifted at all your CV is angled down meaning you inherently can't have a 50/50 ratio if you are fully utilizing your CVs capability and want to be lifted.
That's good to know, I'm thinking I'm just gonna pull it off for the time being and in the future I'll do a low profile rack and integrate a bar in.
Last edited:
snivilous
Senior Member
So obviously Patrick came by and spent the weekend. He's currently still sitting at my house waiting on a supercharger pulley to show up while I'm working haha. Needless to say I didn't get a lot done on the runner, but Patrick helped me paint the bumper and rear flares and throw those on as well as put the synthetic winch line I got last Christmas on. This is the only picture I have of the two runners since Patrick didn't want to move his ever 
hwell:
And then last night after installing the bumper we took a bunch of photos. I have shock reservoir mounts coming in, hopefully before I leave for SLC on Wednesday, so the resis are duct taped to the hood hinges haha. Otherwise the hood could be put on. A few more things to do before the trip but in general the truck is doing great. Bought a bunch of other toys too that I'll be installing once I get back from Utah next week
hwell:
And then last night after installing the bumper we took a bunch of photos. I have shock reservoir mounts coming in, hopefully before I leave for SLC on Wednesday, so the resis are duct taped to the hood hinges haha. Otherwise the hood could be put on. A few more things to do before the trip but in general the truck is doing great. Bought a bunch of other toys too that I'll be installing once I get back from Utah next week
So much sexy! :drool:Continuing the evolution of the runner...
snivilous
Senior Member
My girlfriend and I got back from a couple day road trip yesterday. Last Friday marked 2 weeks that the Runner had been running because of its issues at the beginning of the year. So with less than 2 weeks on the clock, we went for a 1200 mile trip leaving Wednesday. The primary objective was to visit an old friend of mine who was getting married in Salt Lake City, at the same time I had picked up a W56 transmission for [MENTION=89531]Cartzo[/MENTION] and was delivering that. On the return trip we then dipped into Moab for a day and finally spent the last night in a hotel in Glenwood Springs, CO.
First fuel up in Silverthorne:
We then took a highway (forgot what it's called) north towards Steamboat and eventually turned off to head towards Craig and bypass Steamboat.
For some reason the dash light fuse was blown, which we pulled over to fix. Oddly it blew again later on in the trip, so somewhere something is shorting but it's not a constant issue.
Spent the first night at a state park north of Vernal, UT.
Our "camping" setup was throwing a double mattress in the back. In the future, probably once I graduate, the plan is to a get a teardrop and deck it out. I would get a rooftop tent but there are too many bears and other large animals where we live (and plan to travel too in the future) that a soft tent is out of the question.
Following day, Thursday, we made it into SLC for the wedding. I had to get a photo of the 4Runner imposing on my buddies car since he used to have a nice Mustang.
Thursday night we spent awhile looking for a place to camp, ended up in this canyon parked next to a weird forest service gate but it was the only "pull out" that wasn't labeled as no parking. Beauty of car camping!
Friday we went back into SLC and got breakfast with my buddy who used to have the XJ in a lot of my photos, he ended up selling it recently because of its lack of reliability. After that [MENTION=89531]Cartzo[/MENTION] meant us and I did the hand off of the transmission we had been hauling. After that we headed down to Moab through Price, UT. We ran the first two parts of Fins and up to the river overlook on Hell's Revenge. Obviously nothing hard, but considering it had been 2 weeks since the truck had first fired up I didn't want to push anything. I also didn't have any front skids, I stayed aired up at 40psi, no traction aids since my ABS system is all jacked, etc. Mainly just wanted to take my girlfriend crawling and show her some cool sights.
Friday night camped at the base of Fins n Things
Saturday we headed to Glenwood Springs and I didn't get many other photos, cruised up Little Lion's Back on the way out because why not.
Besides the fuses blowing for the dash no real issues though. We only measured our mpgs on the way to SLC but of the three fill ups we did we got 17, 17, and 20 which isn't too bad. I removed the 50" LED bar since it was pretty ugly, especially with the fiberglass and wide front end having the top be wide just looked wrong. I'm sure that helped my aerodynamics a lot, I also think the new torque converter made a considerable difference in power delivery and efficiency.
My speedometer isn't working, need to figure that out. I think a plug somewhere is messed up which is annoying. Before leaving I put the steering heims into double shear which was my main safety concern, even though I had run the analysis on single shear and obviously run that setup a lot but I feel a lot more comfortable with the double sheared knuckles. The suspension worked great, we checked it every time we stopped to make sure nothing was loosening up and everything was great and the fluids all remained in check too. The Runner seemed to run great and be back to its old reliable self! Now 2 weeks until I drive back to Utah for school, and a ton of little things to do in the mean time.
First fuel up in Silverthorne:
We then took a highway (forgot what it's called) north towards Steamboat and eventually turned off to head towards Craig and bypass Steamboat.
For some reason the dash light fuse was blown, which we pulled over to fix. Oddly it blew again later on in the trip, so somewhere something is shorting but it's not a constant issue.
Spent the first night at a state park north of Vernal, UT.
Our "camping" setup was throwing a double mattress in the back. In the future, probably once I graduate, the plan is to a get a teardrop and deck it out. I would get a rooftop tent but there are too many bears and other large animals where we live (and plan to travel too in the future) that a soft tent is out of the question.
Following day, Thursday, we made it into SLC for the wedding. I had to get a photo of the 4Runner imposing on my buddies car since he used to have a nice Mustang.
Thursday night we spent awhile looking for a place to camp, ended up in this canyon parked next to a weird forest service gate but it was the only "pull out" that wasn't labeled as no parking. Beauty of car camping!
Friday we went back into SLC and got breakfast with my buddy who used to have the XJ in a lot of my photos, he ended up selling it recently because of its lack of reliability. After that [MENTION=89531]Cartzo[/MENTION] meant us and I did the hand off of the transmission we had been hauling. After that we headed down to Moab through Price, UT. We ran the first two parts of Fins and up to the river overlook on Hell's Revenge. Obviously nothing hard, but considering it had been 2 weeks since the truck had first fired up I didn't want to push anything. I also didn't have any front skids, I stayed aired up at 40psi, no traction aids since my ABS system is all jacked, etc. Mainly just wanted to take my girlfriend crawling and show her some cool sights.
Friday night camped at the base of Fins n Things
Saturday we headed to Glenwood Springs and I didn't get many other photos, cruised up Little Lion's Back on the way out because why not.
Besides the fuses blowing for the dash no real issues though. We only measured our mpgs on the way to SLC but of the three fill ups we did we got 17, 17, and 20 which isn't too bad. I removed the 50" LED bar since it was pretty ugly, especially with the fiberglass and wide front end having the top be wide just looked wrong. I'm sure that helped my aerodynamics a lot, I also think the new torque converter made a considerable difference in power delivery and efficiency.
My speedometer isn't working, need to figure that out. I think a plug somewhere is messed up which is annoying. Before leaving I put the steering heims into double shear which was my main safety concern, even though I had run the analysis on single shear and obviously run that setup a lot but I feel a lot more comfortable with the double sheared knuckles. The suspension worked great, we checked it every time we stopped to make sure nothing was loosening up and everything was great and the fluids all remained in check too. The Runner seemed to run great and be back to its old reliable self! Now 2 weeks until I drive back to Utah for school, and a ton of little things to do in the mean time.
snivilous
Senior Member
Alright, so after a lot of time putting the beadlocks together they're mated to the 35s and on the truck!
The beadlocks were easy to put together but annoying. The installation instructions don't say anything about anti-seize, so after putting two together and thinking about it and talking to my dad that pointed out that they would get galvanic corrosion between the bolts and wheels, I took the bolts out on the first two I put together and coated them in anti-seize along with the remaining two. The bolts are 3/8" fine threads, so I looked up the torque spec and the lube spec is about 25% less than the dry torque, so I scaled the torque spec back that the instructions had said (20ft-lbs, so did 15ft-lbs). The valve stems also bolt in, and I had heard they might leak so I gooped them in RTV to ensure they sealed. Finally, I had to install 1.25" spidertrax spacers up front since my steering heim was contacting the wheels, and with the double sheared knuckles it has even less clearance now so no way of removing the spacers with these rims... the idea of removing them is because the front looks like this:
Initially I was pretty bummed since the front is waaaay wider than I was expecting, it sits about 6" wider than my fiberglass does. The rear looks perfect I think. It'll grow on me, a lot of people have told me they think it looks really sweet which made me happy. I'm gonna modify the fiberglass a bit which will hopefully make it look not quite as wide. Hopefully next year I can swap a full width into the back to match the front.
I think I'm just used to the skinnies, I think trimming everything and maybe lifting it all an inch or so will make it look a bit better. Need to trim all the armor to clear, will do that later this week.
The beadlocks were easy to put together but annoying. The installation instructions don't say anything about anti-seize, so after putting two together and thinking about it and talking to my dad that pointed out that they would get galvanic corrosion between the bolts and wheels, I took the bolts out on the first two I put together and coated them in anti-seize along with the remaining two. The bolts are 3/8" fine threads, so I looked up the torque spec and the lube spec is about 25% less than the dry torque, so I scaled the torque spec back that the instructions had said (20ft-lbs, so did 15ft-lbs). The valve stems also bolt in, and I had heard they might leak so I gooped them in RTV to ensure they sealed. Finally, I had to install 1.25" spidertrax spacers up front since my steering heim was contacting the wheels, and with the double sheared knuckles it has even less clearance now so no way of removing the spacers with these rims... the idea of removing them is because the front looks like this:
Initially I was pretty bummed since the front is waaaay wider than I was expecting, it sits about 6" wider than my fiberglass does. The rear looks perfect I think. It'll grow on me, a lot of people have told me they think it looks really sweet which made me happy. I'm gonna modify the fiberglass a bit which will hopefully make it look not quite as wide. Hopefully next year I can swap a full width into the back to match the front.
I think I'm just used to the skinnies, I think trimming everything and maybe lifting it all an inch or so will make it look a bit better. Need to trim all the armor to clear, will do that later this week.
snivilous
Senior Member
Big post, I'll try to keep the text to a minimum. I clearanced the front as much as I could to clear the 35s.
I cut back until I was within 1/2" of the door hinges, which was still nowhere near enough to clear for the majority of my up travel. At ride height I can turn in both directions fully, when one side touches the bump stop I have about 50% turning in that direction, and at full compression I have like 10% turning in that direction. I can turn fully into the front of the truck, all that needed clearancing was the bumper and fenders for that. The fenders I took probably 2-3" off, and I'm about 3/8" of clearance if that at full compression. Yes, I could of gotten elaborate and tried to relocate the door hinge but in the end I didn't want to clearance the door itself--which with how wide the front end is, is ultimately the limiting factor in firewall clearance when compressing the front end.
I also didn't realize this from the few write ups I looked at, because all of them cut small sections relatively, but my floor mats don't fit very well now, and I can't even get the front trim piece on the drivers side to even seat at all so I still need to trim those. I'm sure everyone knows how to clearance the firewall so moving on.
This is the morning, the day before I drove to Utah for school:
Current suspension setup. New updates include obviously the 1.25" wheel spacers as said in previous post to clear double sheared steering heims, updated spindle interface with UCA via two machined adapters being pinched (much more simple, vastly stronger than a C-clip design, no tolerance issues, much easier to install, etc.), UCA uniball bolt now also has cotter pins/castle nuts like the lowers, and I have "legit" reservoir mounts finally that I had ordered with the tires.
Friday I went down the hill to get the tires and wheels balanced. As of Friday night, the tires had only one trip of more than 5 miles on them and maybe 50 miles total--and I was driving 500 miles to school the following day. When the tires went to get balanced, which Big O did great and got dead nuts (only one needed more than 4oz of weights), at some point on the drive down one of my drivers caliper bolts fell out. I'm GUESSING I somehow forgot to torque the caliper, which I'm not sure how I would do that but is the most plausible option :noidea: So when the tech backed the truck out the caliper rotated forward and dug into the wheel. So my brand new $1400 beadlocks with 25 miles on them had these gouges on the inside. My view: oh well, they're offroad racing wheels and I'm gonna beat on them anyways so not a big deal. The guys at Big O found me another bolt and got it in and no issues. I could send the beadlock back to TR since they have a no-questions warranty, but like I said I'm not concerned about it and it's definitely not worth the shipping cost and time to send it back--shit happens, no one got hurt. Saturday morning I left for Utah with my mattress on the roof.
Every fill up I averaged 14-15mpg, majority of which was 3rd gear with the torque converter locked up and cruising around 3000rpm. I'm happy, considering my average before was lucky to be 14mpg I think the torque converter helped a lot since even with the mattress on top and doing 3000rpm for 500 miles it got decent (for it) mileage.
Have to trim the rear bumper a bit more, I removed some frame mounting brackets for the bumper during my first round of trimming and the bumper kinda rotated forward as such so need to fix that. Also need to install the rear hydro bumps so the tires rub if I flex much, not going wheeling until I get that done. And here's a closing photo from chilling at a lake today.
I cut back until I was within 1/2" of the door hinges, which was still nowhere near enough to clear for the majority of my up travel. At ride height I can turn in both directions fully, when one side touches the bump stop I have about 50% turning in that direction, and at full compression I have like 10% turning in that direction. I can turn fully into the front of the truck, all that needed clearancing was the bumper and fenders for that. The fenders I took probably 2-3" off, and I'm about 3/8" of clearance if that at full compression. Yes, I could of gotten elaborate and tried to relocate the door hinge but in the end I didn't want to clearance the door itself--which with how wide the front end is, is ultimately the limiting factor in firewall clearance when compressing the front end.
I also didn't realize this from the few write ups I looked at, because all of them cut small sections relatively, but my floor mats don't fit very well now, and I can't even get the front trim piece on the drivers side to even seat at all so I still need to trim those. I'm sure everyone knows how to clearance the firewall so moving on.
This is the morning, the day before I drove to Utah for school:
Current suspension setup. New updates include obviously the 1.25" wheel spacers as said in previous post to clear double sheared steering heims, updated spindle interface with UCA via two machined adapters being pinched (much more simple, vastly stronger than a C-clip design, no tolerance issues, much easier to install, etc.), UCA uniball bolt now also has cotter pins/castle nuts like the lowers, and I have "legit" reservoir mounts finally that I had ordered with the tires.
Friday I went down the hill to get the tires and wheels balanced. As of Friday night, the tires had only one trip of more than 5 miles on them and maybe 50 miles total--and I was driving 500 miles to school the following day. When the tires went to get balanced, which Big O did great and got dead nuts (only one needed more than 4oz of weights), at some point on the drive down one of my drivers caliper bolts fell out. I'm GUESSING I somehow forgot to torque the caliper, which I'm not sure how I would do that but is the most plausible option :noidea: So when the tech backed the truck out the caliper rotated forward and dug into the wheel. So my brand new $1400 beadlocks with 25 miles on them had these gouges on the inside. My view: oh well, they're offroad racing wheels and I'm gonna beat on them anyways so not a big deal. The guys at Big O found me another bolt and got it in and no issues. I could send the beadlock back to TR since they have a no-questions warranty, but like I said I'm not concerned about it and it's definitely not worth the shipping cost and time to send it back--shit happens, no one got hurt. Saturday morning I left for Utah with my mattress on the roof.
Every fill up I averaged 14-15mpg, majority of which was 3rd gear with the torque converter locked up and cruising around 3000rpm. I'm happy, considering my average before was lucky to be 14mpg I think the torque converter helped a lot since even with the mattress on top and doing 3000rpm for 500 miles it got decent (for it) mileage.
Have to trim the rear bumper a bit more, I removed some frame mounting brackets for the bumper during my first round of trimming and the bumper kinda rotated forward as such so need to fix that. Also need to install the rear hydro bumps so the tires rub if I flex much, not going wheeling until I get that done. And here's a closing photo from chilling at a lake today.
4Running Daily
New member
Did you ever order rear shocks?
snivilous
Senior Member
Nope, due to a change up in what I'm doing for housing this semester I can't afford new shocks right now
4Running Daily
New member
Too bad I don't have 3 sets of Icon's in my garage like I use to. I'm sure you could pick up a set of 10" or 12" 2.0's with resi's for $300 and build rear shock hoops for them.
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