Sniv's Custom Long Travel Build

Nice work! I kind of liked your skinnies on the 4Runner but the 35's look really good. If you were able to somehow redo your steering to get rid of the spacer, would that help your clearance? I'd assume you want to stay away from body lifts. Don't know if it's a huge deal since I'd imagine when your suspension is at maxim uptravel your wheels are probably pretty close to straight anyways. (Not that you'd want to jump it with your wheels turned anyway)
 
Nice work! I kind of liked your skinnies on the 4Runner but the 35's look really good. If you were able to somehow redo your steering to get rid of the spacer, would that help your clearance? I'd assume you want to stay away from body lifts. Don't know if it's a huge deal since I'd imagine when your suspension is at maxim uptravel your wheels are probably pretty close to straight anyways. (Not that you'd want to jump it with your wheels turned anyway)

Thanks man, yea removing the steering spacer would make it so I might not need the wheel spacer. The issue with removing the steering spacer is it's only on there to correct my bump steer--which I still have, but makes it minimal enough on the street it behaves well. I think the whole issue is because I'm not using the stock A-arm mounting locations, so I had to modify the steering locations to make up for that. I really really hate the stock spindle, time and time again it bites me in the ass so when I get the chance I'm gonna fab an entire spindle myself and get rid of the weak upper arm mounts and LBJ mounting bolts and steering knuckle stuff for a sleek and sexy and correct spindle.
 
Inspected the beadlock torques yesterday and everything checked out fine. Lubed the shit out of all my heims and uniballs again. Inspected the front suspension bolts and joints and everything else. All the usual twice a week maintenance haha. Trying to keep the truck reliable and catch any issues fast since I don't have the money to fix/mod the truck much for the next few months.

I ordered some leaf spring perches to use as bump stop striking pads in the rear, hopefully get those in this week so I can actually hit some trails and try the beadlocks out.

The tires squeal when I turn sharp, I adjusted the steering a little on the passenger side today since it looked a little toed in. Sometimes the camber looks off, but if I'm driving straight and stop and get out it looks dead nuts in the front so I haven't adjusted it at all. I'm gonna ask around and see if I can get a free alignment check, I just don't want toe/camber wearing the tires fast, otherwise I honestly don't care what everything is set at (along with caster) since I set everything by feel so it drives how I like it. Tires don't seem to have any weird wear going on right now regardless.

And I compared the runner to my buddy who has a stock 3rd gen (for the moment) and I think I might not have any lift at all, I would be surprised if it's over an inch at all. Truck is pretty low, which I like. Only downside is the rear end has maybe 4" of up travel, where as the front has I think 8" right now. Oh well.

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Little update: So I installed the rear bump stop cans and used a leaf spring perch on the axle to bump off of, I notched the frame as much as I could and shoved the can in--it's not very far since the bump stop is longer than the can and I didn't want to modify the body, but it helps. I go and get the bumps charged at 150psi, they're 4" stroke so figure I don't need a lot considering I have the front at 250psi. Well, one of the schrader valves just plain won't hold pressure. The shop said they replaced the core but it still wouldn't hold anything, so somehow the actual valve is jacked. Keep in mind these are brand new bump stops. Also keep in mind I go to college and have other stuff besides my already insanely expensive suspension, so that's why I don't have King hardware that costs over 2x as much. So I take the bumps back, clamp it in a vice and put a wrench on it--a quarter inch ratchet driver for the record, not a breaker bar or anything big--and the schrader shears in half at the threads. So it's labor day weekend, I feel like a complete ***** because all I've posted for weeks is mostly mall crawler pictures and I haven't actually wheeled it with the beadlocks and 35s, let alone the new rear bump stops and now I have to wait who knows how long to get a new bump stop from FOA. Or I could try to fix it, which I have looked everywhere and can't find a valve that works which assumes I take the bump stop apart and heat the body (because there's tons of lock tite I realized post-shearing in half) to melt the lock tite and hopefully use an EZ out or reverse bit to get the remains out, which could also lead to needing to tap a new valve that no one has.

So that really pissed me off on Friday since I was hoping to go jump the truck a little and play around on some rocks, but now I have one working bump stop and another one that will be annoying to fix and hasn't been used even once. If FOAs gear wasn't so cheap I wouldn't run it, and you get what you pay for in shocks. Just waiting for that piece of paper so I can make good money and buy some good shocks and not worry about metal shavings or snap rings not sized properly or shims not the correct thickness or bump stops THAT WEREN'T PRESSURE TESTED. I swear no one in offroading has quality control, hell my buddy got a Toytec kit in the other day and one of the shock bushing sleeves is jacked as all hell. This is one of the reasons I want to start an offroad shop since REAL ENGINEERING and REAL QUALITY CONTROL will be the baseline for everything, and will be derived from my experience in aerospace where if you have one issue your career is destroyed and you can't afford screw ups. I guess that doesn't apply when you make 5000 of something, but holy shit is it annoying, especially when it literally takes 10 seconds of someone filling it with 15psi to see if the bump stop appears to work or 10 seconds to look a shock over and see the sleeve got mangled.

Anyways, sorry for the rant, offroading stuff pisses me off which is why I do as much stuff as I can myself. Speaking of which [MENTION=89531]Cartzo[/MENTION] and I have been making a sweet engine cage in his LT 1st gen which people should check out, in the meantime here's 3 photos of more retarded mall crawling :dammit:

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Hope everyone is having a good weekend, hopefully I'll have my bump stops fixed soon enough and can finally show something mildly interesting.
 
Today has a bit more exciting news. First of all I put my one good bump stop in just to see how it is, too long unsurprisingly. I'll pull it out and shorten it to a 2" stroke. Contacted FOA and they're gonna send me new schrader valves, so I'm just gonna take both bump stops apart and fix the bad one and shorten both of them. As I understand it there's just a sleeve that controls how far they can droop, and you just cut a new sleeve out of electrical conduit or something similar. After doing all that I did a quick suspension check and came across the bottom cap which screws into the seal retainer and has it's own O-rings integral to it, had somehow become unscrewed and moved down on the drivers side... No idea how that happened, maybe FOAs policy of being finger tight on that was supposed to be better than when I rebuilt it and cranked it down... Anyways, fixed that.

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Now it gets exciting. Plan was to go up providence canyon and take some pictures.

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The truck seemed to be doing well, and making sure I was controlling my speed and where I was placing the truck I could avoid having my one non-bump stopped tire from rubbing for the most part. Somehow I only got one video, I guess I missed the record button when I thought I hit it but this is a screenshot I did grab. I hit this little bump in the road at about 40mph, I wanted to get off the ground a little but not totally wreck the back end.

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Ironically I actually ****ed the front end :cry2:

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That's right, the passenger spindle--a "new" one, but the same side that failed at the beginning of the year--snapped again. Though this time it was on the top, which ultimately is a MUCH easier trail fix than the bottom since the upper arm is barely loaded nominally and is just there to keep the spindle pointing up (versus the lower arm which holds the truck essentially).

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I'm honestly not sure how this happened, I checked my bump stop on that side and it still had plenty of pressure (I just depressed the valve for an instant). It looked like the passenger side bottomed out the bump stop, I'm just guessing this from the fact I couldn't see any dirt rings on the bump stop which usually you can see on the shock how far the suspension compressed based on where it's clean from the wipers/O-rings/seals going down the shaft. So if that's true, then the bump stop probably fully compressed and that created a radial load spike on the upper arm and spindle, and the spindle just couldn't take it. That explains why the outer portion disconnected as the spindle moved inwards. I knew my compression valving was soft but I didn't feel like I actually bottomed out, and in the video the drivers side doesn't look like it bottoms out. Maybe that bump stop was low on pressure, maybe the shock was, maybe it just happened to land harder, I don't know.

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Not sure if the CV is okay, boot got jacked which I'm also not sure how that happened since it looks like it rotated... Really not sure how that happened especially since the slip joint is on the inner CV so I must've sheared the outer CV to get the boot to spin like that. I was in 2WD though so that's the weirdest part.

As I said, fairly easy trail fix to get it home.

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I had to revise the ratchet strap job twice but by the end I was able to do 20mph through the back roads and felt safe and everything seemed solid.

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And a final picture I took before driving it back, luckily where I was is essentially a dirt road. Cartzo and I come here fairly often since it has some of the deepest woops from some puddles that form every year plus some decent jumps on the road which I assume are meant to just channel water away. So unless you go further up there's nothing technical luckily. Tomorrow I'm gonna try to weld the two halves back together, tack-back gouge-weld, make it strong enough to get to school but then later this week I'm thinking I'll fully box the spindle and gusset everything I can together. Obviously this was a totally stock spindle, not gusseted with the Total Chaos gussets like my last set, but I want to go more indepth than that since the TC gussets don't reinforce the base much where you develop your peak moment and overall are pretty simplistic so I want to really beef these up since I'm gonna have to run them for a few months. Anyways, fun time, easy fix relatively speaking, truck wasn't hurt otherwise (though I lost one of my rear fenders somewhere and need to go back for it), and luckily all my homework is due towards the end of the week and not tomorrow!

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That sucks :(. I can't say I've seen any broke at the base. I have seen multiple broke on the top and the TC gusset is the simplest solution. You could easily beef the TC gusset, then you don't have to spend the time making the rest. They're cheap insurance for sure. Good Luck.
 
Total chaos makes a weld on spindle gusset kit...

Yea but it's like 1/16" sheet that I could make in 20 minutes, and it doesn't reinforce the critical areas as much as I want.

That sucks :(. I can't say I've seen any broke at the base. I have seen multiple broke on the top and the TC gusset is the simplest solution. You could easily beef the TC gusset, then you don't have to spend the time making the rest. They're cheap insurance for sure. Good Luck.

Yea that's true, I'm just gonna take the torch and cut some 3/16" out and box in most of it and run some boxed gussets over to the caliper mounts and stuff. I don't want to wait potentially until next week to get some TC stuff either. I just want the day I can machine and fabricate a full spindle including steering knuckle...
 
Yea but it's like 1/16" sheet that I could make in 20 minutes, and it doesn't reinforce the critical areas as much as I want.



Yea that's true, I'm just gonna take the torch and cut some 3/16" out and box in most of it and run some boxed gussets over to the caliper mounts and stuff. I don't want to wait potentially until next week to get some TC stuff either. I just want the day I can machine and fabricate a full spindle including steering knuckle...

at least the part that broke wasnt something you had made, you can just get another spindle. that being said, get a new spindle, then make a prototype beef spindle with that broken one, make your own beef cake ball joint mount and be done with it.
 
at least the part that broke wasnt something you had made, you can just get another spindle. that being said, get a new spindle, then make a prototype beef spindle with that broken one, make your own beef cake ball joint mount and be done with it.

That's not a bad idea actually, one of my buddies told me tonight of a 01 being parted out too which I was thinking of checking out their spindles.
 
That's not a bad idea actually, one of my buddies told me tonight of a 01 being parted out too which I was thinking of checking out their spindles.

if you had the bolt inline with the piece coming up on the spindle, that would be ideal, so its not leveraged over. really anything you can do will be better than what was there, its like a soda tab haha.
 
Sniv this has been amaizing...
Finally made it start to finish through the whole process to now. I had a week off so read through it all every chance I got...(I think I feel my eyes bleeding) but well worth it.

It has been fantastic following you throught the whole process. Thank you so much for taking the time to post so much detail for us all here to follow and learn from. I for one have learnt a sht ton...

Just wanted to put in $0.02 for support and congrats.
Can't wait to see how you sort out all the loose ends as it comes together.

RIG LOOKS/IS AMAIZING!!! :eyebrows:
 
Sniv this has been amaizing...
Finally made it start to finish through the whole process to now. I had a week off so read through it all every chance I got...(I think I feel my eyes bleeding) but well worth it.

It has been fantastic following you throught the whole process. Thank you so much for taking the time to post so much detail for us all here to follow and learn from. I for one have learnt a sht ton...

Just wanted to put in $0.02 for support and congrats.
Can't wait to see how you sort out all the loose ends as it comes together.

RIG LOOKS/IS AMAIZING!!! :eyebrows:

Thanks man!! That means a lot and I appreciate the compliments, I wonder a lot how many people even read my stuff so it's really nice to hear stuff like that :D
 
Thanks man!! That means a lot and I appreciate the compliments, I wonder a lot how many people even read my stuff so it's really nice to hear stuff like that :D

I think I speak for many here when I say that we always look forward to reading your posts in this thread. Very cool stuff!
 
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Initial things out of the way: FOA ended up sending me four schrader valves, I just have to figure out how to take the bump stops apart since I need to shorten them as well as fix the one side. I messed with one of them and couldn't get either the wiper cap or the set screw on the top out, not sure what to do but I might give them another call and see if they disassemble differently than their shocks for some reason. I also pieced together a CO2 setup which I should be getting my tank for in the next day. Nothing fancy, I ordered the fixed regulator from Poly which is set at 150psi and also have a tire chuck and heavy duty air line off of amazon, then got a 10lb tank off a home brewing store. My logic being in the near future I'll be in the snow and be airing down more often than I'll be wishing I had better rear shocks, and I want to air up and not be stuck at 2psi for 50 miles. On the note of shocks I may also be getting some 2.5 10" travel piggyback SAWs for $200, but that's up in the air at the moment.

Its been raining a lot in northern Utah recently, and this morning there was snow on the peaks so I decided to head up and check it out. Ended up getting two of my buddies who have 3rd gens to come as well. One of them is dual locked and armored on 35s (albeit bald) and the other was the guy who got the Toytec lift last week and he also got new wheels and 33s at the same time.

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The trip wasn't anything super exciting, nothing broke and it was meant to be a quick excursion to see how deep the snow was. I ran lead for most of it since no one wanted to feel like they were holding me back. Once we got on the trail, which any car can do easily, I used my automatic air downs and dropped the tires to 10psi just to smooth the ride out. A few days ago I aired down to 10psi for a test run of the beadlocks on a local trail, and 10psi coupled with the LT is insane and in decent sized rocks and baby heads the truck is amazingly smooth. Even though I know this trail/road isn't very rocky I figured I have them so may as well use them, and if the snow does get deeper than expected I'm already aired down.

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The rear end is AWFUL. I try not to bottom out--I bottom out. I shouldn't bottom out--I bottom out. It's flat--I bottom out. It's a miracle those shocks work at all, since they're certainly don't do anything on the trail. The funny part is even though the rear suspension is so horrible I'm still 2-3x faster it seemed than the other guys since I could soak up bumps, just not hit the deep stuff as fast as I should be able.

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There was 2-3" of snow at the top, more than the powdering I was expecting. We passed one 1st gen and there was another 1st gen at the top who was pulled off the side, and when we all went to leave I had to pull him back onto the road. Kinda neat seeing/having so many 4Runners out wheeling.

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Mount Logan, been here a lot. Overlooks the city.

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Nothing exciting on the way down. Truck did great except the rear end which hopefully I get decent shocks for soon. Still have to revalve the front, probably run two big 10s and all 15s, or two 8s then 10s then 15s. Compression and rebound are too soft for high speed, on the small stuff the truck feels good most of the time. Might bump my front bump stops to 300psi too, which is probably what I'll run the rears at. The beadlocks so far seem awesome, like I said running 10psi on everything really compliments the suspension. I need to ask around since I'm worried if I run too low of pressure when I'm going fast the wheel will slice through the tire. Done a lot of hard turns and bumps which I guarantee would of blown a bead before. Obviously they'll show how awesome they really are when we get into the deep snow wheeling trips, which might be coming sooner than I thought.

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Have some camping and wheeling plans this weekend so hopefully get some good stories and pictures!
 
Looking good man! Cant wait to see the rear's as well. Clearly you don't do anything easy so I think we can all assume that you will be doing something sweet out back as well.

On a more immediate topic, what are you doing in terms of sealing off the door jams from the elements like snow and dirt. running glass I assume you cannot retain the factory splash guards. I may be in the same boat as you with the fenders sooner or later and this is not something I want to risk with the doors. I was thinking some sort of thick rubber, mudflap like, and cutting it to fit, caulking it shut, then you just pull it off and re-caulk it back in if ever needed.
 
On a more immediate topic, what are you doing in terms of sealing off the door jams from the elements like snow and dirt. running glass I assume you cannot retain the factory splash guards. I may be in the same boat as you with the fenders sooner or later and this is not something I want to risk with the doors. I was thinking some sort of thick rubber, mudflap like, and cutting it to fit, caulking it shut, then you just pull it off and re-caulk it back in if ever needed.

I haven't done anything to the doors. I clean the hinges out and keep them lubricated but don't get a lot of build up of mud or snow. My seals are completely fine so I've had no reason to do anything, like I said I lubricate the door hinges every now and then since they might start to squeak but that's it.
 
CO2 setup seems to work, though I haven't done anything besides testing it. The guy at Praxair was super cool, I had bought a 10lb tank and when I went to fill it up he said the smallest size they had was 20lb tanks so he upgraded me to a 20lb tank for free. I need to buy a holder for it since right now I just have a bungy cord keeping it from falling down. I'm a little sketched out at the idea of driving around and the tank leaking and suffocating, not sure if this is a realistic concern since lots of people have home breweries or have CO2/nitrogen onboard setups. The tank is obviously pressure tested and sound, but regardless...

Went camping up Franklin Basin, not sure if we were far enough north to be in Idaho. Got pretty chilly and frosted at night, I backed the runner up to the fire and just left the tail gate open and laid my sleeping bag in the back. Nothing special, no wheeling. My buddy with the LT 1st gen rode along, and another friend of ours who was up from southern Utah for the trip had his 1st gen and then there was a Jeep. Few long exposure shots and pictures of the CO2 setup.

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Hey what are your plans for the rear set up?
Im running a 2.0 X 4" bump stops and icon 2.5's (bolt in) in the rear and I finally had the opportunity to run my camburg front lt kit this past weekend.

The rear couldnt keep up with the front at all even bumped, so im really interested to see what you do with yours and how it works out.
 

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