SnowLizards Build thread

I'm more like AZbub, 14 gal's when the light turns on, but using the scan-guage I go till I have about 50 miles left on the tank.
 
No more drone...

Ok I'll try to explain this so bear with me...

ahh forget that... I'm gonna EDIT this guy's post to relate to our trucks... please go read this forum for more info...

and another place to read about it... LINK


NOTE ME!!! said:
The concept behind drone is pretty simple; nearly everything has a resonant frequency...exhaust systems, electronic RLC circuits, even gravitation has resonance. At peak resonance, the amplitude of the wave at the resonant frequency shoots up to many times higher than normal amplitude. With sound resonance, it pops up when a certain frequency emitted from the engine resonates with the exhaust system and muffler to create that nasty in-cab drone. Unfortunately this resonance often has its peak right in the area where you want to cruise, between 55-75mph.

The solution is a 1/4 wave resonator tube. Simply put, it is a small piece of exhaust pipe with a flat capped end welded nearly perpendicular to the exhaust flow post-muffler that serves to take some of the resonant amplitude and shoot it back into the exhaust pipe out of phase with the resonant frequency to bring down the amplitude. If you've ever taken a physics class, this is in the 'standing wave dynamics' chapter. Mufflers are designed to bring down the amplitude or volume of the exhaust note at all RPMs, but they typically can't do anything about resonance. Corsa mufflers have a built-in resonator that works decent, but only with the entire exhaust kit. Sometimes you'll run across a setup that drones at an RPM the Corsa muffler and exhaust wasn't designed to combat, so theres a chance the internal resonator will do little to no good.

Things you need to know to build the resonator:

-RPM that drone occurs at
-Number of cylinders (4runners 6 or 4)

You will also need to know the speed of sound. It varies with temperature, but is generally accepted to be 343m/s.

Say your V6 truck resonates at 1800rpms the loudest. You'll need to find the frequency of the drone. Units here are pulses per second, or Hertz.

f = RPM * pulses/rev * (1/60)

f = 1800 rev/min * 3 pulses/rev * (1/60)

f = 90 pulses/second = 90Hz

At 1800rpms, your V6 fires 3 times per revolution. RPM is in minutes, so divide by 60 to reduce to seconds. Now you need to find the length of the wave at the frequency you just calculated. Wavelength is denoted by lambda (λ), units are meters.

λ = v/f = speed of sound / frequency

λ = (343m/s)/(90Hz)

λ = 3.8111 meters

This gives you the length of a full sound wave. The idea here is to reintroduce a sound wave into the exhaust that is 180° out of phase with your drone frequency. To do this, you build your resonator tube at exactly one-fourth the length of the resonant wave. By the time the sound wave enters the resonator tube, bounces off the end and re-enters the exhaust stream, the amplitude is exactly opposite of the drone frequency and will lower or eliminate the volume of the drone.

Dividing the wavelength by 4 gives you 0.9527m, or about 3.1258 feet (37.51inches). Its long and kind of awkward, but someone who has had to deal with a droning truck on a road trip will likely sacrifice the space to make it fit

The diameter of the tube you'd need is debatable, as I haven't tried different sizes of tubing. When I built mine, I took a shot in the dark and went with 1.75" pipe on my 2.25" exhaust... I assume a larger resonator tube would allow more sound to bounce back and cancel more of the drone noise....

The reason for this is simply the fact that sound waves do not necessarily 'flow' with whatever medium they are travelling in. Sound is a pressure wave, and any obstacle (bends) will return the wave prematurely. To minimize 'obstables' in the resonator tube, the straighter it is, the better it will work. The intent is not to randomly scatter the sound wave as a radius will tend to do, but to send it back to the exhaust precisely when it is needed.
Click to expand...

so my math that I used...
((Speed of sound in feet per sec/((Drone RPM) * (# of Cyl / 2) * (1/60)))/4)*12)
((1126/(1900*(6/2)*(1/60)))/4)*12= 35.55789474 inches

I claim I'm no expert, I don't fully understand, and am not responsible for what you do.

my experience...

I went a 36 inch long pipe. imo my drone was right below 1900 rpm. I didn't mandel bend it, just normal exhaust bending here...
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Before, I liked the exhaust tone/note, the deep growl and it was 'loud' but not to the point that I'm afraid of waking the neighbors. on the other hand the drone DROVE me nuts mostly around town, it reverberated through the cab, my wife doesn't notice it or refuses. it has quieted 'some' (since the muffler install), but the drone is still there, and I don't like it. freeway wise, it's louder, I can't hear the wind or tires on the road. The music volume is louder to compensate, and we talk in a louder volume while driving.

After, my idle is more quiet, my cruise noise is quiet, I hear a hum on the freeway. when I'm on the throttle, the deep growl is still there, the sound is still amazing, and it can still get loud, and I'm enjoying it even more now that it doesn't reverberate... the Drone is kinda still there, I'd say an honest 65-70% is not there... it's a much more acceptable level of drone volume.
in the end, I'm happy, if you want an exhaust, but afraid of the drone, this is for you. it was worth the price I put in it.

my friend even noticed the difference, on how 'cleaner' the exhaust sounds inside the truck driving around before/after.

all in all, I spent 100 for the muffler, 65 muffler install, and 60 for the pipe. so for 225, on a nice exhaust that's not droning me crazy, I'm content. now on to the next 'mod'
 
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been researching wheels and options... I've come to the conclusion that wider rims aren't better, which is complete opposite of what I set out to research/believed.

So from what knowledge I have gathered from the interwebs/google... is that the thinner rim keeps the bead better than the wider rim. still go BIG on the tire width to help the bead.

the thinner rims are 'technically' called 'poor mans beadlock' and many have successfully run 35x12.5r15 at 6-8psi without poping beads on a 15x8 rim... my goal is a 32x11.5r16 at 10psi, and someday a 33x11.5r16 at 10psi also...
both on my 'stock' tacoma or 4runner rims, 16x7...

at least this is what I have gathered thus far, I think a realistic 10psi is not that bad. anyone with actual experience with that low of pressure on non-beadlock rims have any issues, please comment/verify... I'll try it out some day. but not today.

with my stock 265/70r16 tires I'll stick to 15psi offroad for now.

sadly the widest 32inch tire I can get is 285 (nitto's)... or 11.4-11.6 inch wide.. if they offer wider in overall 32inch tall, please point me... I'll consider...

some good sites
Wheel Width Affect On Tire Performance - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
Bead locks vs standard wheels | The Official Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum
https://arbusa.wordpress.com/2011/10/26/the-lowdown-off-road-tire-pressures/
http://www.overlandexperts.com/docs/articles/offroad_tire_taller_or_wider.pdf

search:
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=poor+man+beadlock
https://www.google.com/webhp?source...ie=UTF-8#q=rim+size+and+tire+pressure+offroad
 
On my '87 4Runner I ran my 33x12.50x15 TSLs at 10-12 psi on the stock 15" steel rims. I believe they are 7 or 7.5" wide. I recently changed from 16x8 Lexus rims on my 2001 4R to 16x7.5 rims and really like the way the tires look and ride. I have not had the new rims off road yet so I am not sure about airing down but I am confident that they will go down to 15 psi. The 8" wide Lexus rims held a bead fine at 20 psi last time I was off roading.
 
thanks [MENTION=129885]tx_shooter[/MENTION]

I've ran 17psi before off road, even in snow... I did want to go lower for a better ride, but I was play'n it safe. some day I'll run 10-12psi on my stock tires just to 'try it'...

I'm thinking of some sort of beadlock 'might' be in my future.

edit: far future
 
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Not sure bead locks are necessary unless you plan to get crazy. I wheel with someone who runs 35's and he airs down to 10-12 psi and does just fine and he runs the 5 star factory rims


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I just commented on your internal beadlock thread, but I clicked on your build also so will answer your other questions :bounce: I've run a few different pressures and setups. Before getting beadlocks last summer my go to pressure was 10-12psi. The only time I've actually blown a bead (in the snow) was running 8psi on some old FJ40 wheels and some 33x9.50R15s. Granted the wheels were pretty narrow, but that can give you a decent perspective that I wasn't blowing beads with a 9.5" wide tire on probably a 7" wheel until I was in the single digits, and honestly it was a bad move on my part since I was trying to do like a 30 point turn in the middle of this group so I wasn't moving and just turning the wheel wit some tall skinny tires and the bead just got pulled off from the snow.

A few other times I ran into the single digits, but it was for really bad situations and I didn't have much other choice and didn't have issues with the beads. Like I said, it seemed like 10psi was always totally fine, and going lower was fine, but the key without beadlocks and dropping below about 10 or 12psi was being smart about what the tires were doing and what they were pressing against and having an idea of the situations that might try to peel the bead off. That's the main benefit of the beadlocks I think, is I can run stupid low pressures and not have to worry if the hill side I'm against will peel the bead off when I turn into it, even if I'm not moving at all.

There's also offroad oriented wheels you can get that have a fatter lip for the bead to try and lock it down more. My beadlocks have that on the inner side, and I used to be worried about blowing the inner bead but it is on there HARD and I think they use some techniques where there are big lips and maybe even double lips to keep the inner bead from easily sliding off. My point being I think some wheels do that on both sides, so if you don't have beadlocks it's still pretty hard to get the bead to pop off. Food for thought anyhow.
 
pictures ...

installed my rear bumper!! woot


so first the bumper...
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then I did my water pump and clutch fan...

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I recently did my timing belt earlier (maybe a month ago... did I post that? ah yes I did) and thought my water pump was 'fine'....

well, it was leaking. the 'paper' gasket was gone at the bottom of the t stat housing... did not have 'toyota' or 'asisin' inscripted on it.... it was cheap replacement...

I took my time and cleaned off the old paper gasket from the block, used purple power to make it squeaky clean...

I made sure to put in a toyota asisin pump with a metal with rubber gasket...

I'm little crazy and applied a very 'thin' bead of copper ATV (seriously thin) on the outside of the gasket area... very careful to not get any on the rubber seal on OEM gasket... didn't grab any pics. oh well..

the clutch fan I put was from o'riely's... it works great on my 97 and I figure IF it does give me beef, I'll easily swap for asisin.
 
next was the suspension/steering...

so...
all 4 shocks (Bilstein 5100 tundra)
OME rear 906 springs
Toyota OEM inner tie rods
Toyota OEM outer tie rods
sway bar bushings (not links)
Toyota OEM upper ball joints
Toyota OEM lower ball joints (and OEM bolts from dealer it was $10 for all 8, google 'New Twist on Lower Ball Joint failure')

things to know... O'Riely's has the '4wd ball joint adapter set' for rent to press off your ball joint... to press on, use that same set (different adapter) and supply your own flat metal... and google 'upper ball joints the easy way toyota'

make sure to do the rear first if you have adjustable 5100's... I did and I'm glad I did.

don't use the spring compressor that hooks to the sides of the springs.... find the one with a 'horse' shoe design... I think Harbor freight has it... and just buy it.

an air impact on the spring compressor will save you hours of tightening/loosening... I had battery and it died, then used a regular drill... almost died...

HAVE A BUDDY HELP YOU... seriously, work was so much easier and FASTER with a 2nd person...

ok pictures...

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some specs...

before....
Front
driver .... passenger
34.37 ..... 34.5
34.63 ..... 35
rear

after...
front
driver .... passenger
36.37 ..... 36.25
36.25 ..... 36.37
rear

I'm 'level' and what's strange is the 'opposite' corner... but could be tire pressure/angle of tape measure... human error... what ever...
 
and if anyone asks....

my trailer hitch with the lift is now 22.5 inches off the ground.

originally 12.75

that's nearly 10 inches (9.75) of a raise... way better departure angle.

now to save for tires and the rest of the armor...

overall, I'm thinking of leaving the lift where it is... with a bumper and armor it will bring the front down and give me that subtle rake that I like... so now all I have to do is go find some trails and test these shocks out!
 
SnowLizard said:
and if anyone asks....

my trailer hitch with the lift is now 22.5 inches off the ground.

originally 12.75

that's nearly 10 inches (9.75) of a raise... way better departure angle.

now to save for tires and the rest of the armor...

overall, I'm thinking of leaving the lift where it is... with a bumper and armor it will bring the front down and give me that subtle rake that I like... so now all I have to do is go find some trails and test these shocks out!
Click to expand...

I was about to ask about this, that's a crazy improvement right there. I never realized how low the stock trailer hitch was without any lift or anything.
 
MattJakobs said:
I was about to ask about this, that's a crazy improvement right there. I never realized how low the stock trailer hitch was without any lift or anything.
Click to expand...

it really shocked me too, and with the sag on my wife's 97, it's even lower... I'm keeping my 99 tall coils for her 4 runner. I'll probably swap that next week after the starter is rebuilt.

just think... with taller tires and weight up front it might bring the hitch up more. I won't be surprised if I get to 24 inches. the problem now, is what kind of hitch I'm gonna use, was thinking something universal/overland type hitch. but that will be level with hitch meaning the trailer is gonna get a 'huge' lift to make it 'level'... but if I drop it any then the hitch being so high won't make any sense...
 
Went camping, slept in the back with the seat down... not bad, it was way more quieter than a tent... until it started to hail/slush/snow on us.

sorry for crappy cell pics... this whole thread is made from my cell phone pics...

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/133970401@N04/26881238476/in/dateposted-public/" title="20160507_064023"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7604/26881238476_0838bcbe57_b.jpg" width="1024" height="576" alt="20160507_064023"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/133970401@N04/26914632615/in/dateposted-public/" title="20160507_111054"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7233/26914632615_0e26df430b_b.jpg" width="1024" height="576" alt="20160507_111054"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

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went trail exploring in the morning with Father-In-Law...
we saw this grey squirrel, I first thought it was a large rabbit, it was HUGE, at least my knee height, so 1-1.5ft tall... don't know if FIL got a pic...
also saw a turkey, but it jumped off the cliff before I could get a pic...
and lots of vista's...

good time, really enjoyed just getting out and exploring.
 
notes on suspension change...

*the ride is 'nice' it's not too stiff, I do enjoy the dirt roads even with full tire pressure... I could not before.
*the 'sway' in noticeable. on high speed turns I do slow down, I might go with a bigger front end sway bar. I'm still using stock links, will longer links change this feeling?
*the extra height is nice, I feel the front is higher than rear, but I know it's lvl.
*Having an alignment done is really nice, I think that my mpg is 19.8 because of the alignment, cause being lifted would not increase mpg, so... alignment, just do it.

*Firestone asked if I was 'Lifted' and I said no, I have towing springs in the rear and leveled the front to match. any lift was 'un-intentional' and did admit the 1.5 inch raise in the rear. the sales guy didn't but his supervisor behind him said it wasn't an issue lol.

In all honesty, it really only looks like I have too small of tires on the truck. gotta fix that, then it'll look OEM ish...
 
SnowLizard said:
next was the suspension/steering...

so...
all 4 shocks (Bilstein 5100 tundra)
OME rear 906 springs
Toyota OEM inner tie rods
Toyota OEM outer tie rods
sway bar bushings (not links)
Toyota OEM upper ball joints
Toyota OEM lower ball joints (and OEM bolts from dealer it was $10 for all 8, google 'New Twist on Lower Ball Joint failure')

things to know... O'Riely's has the '4wd ball joint adapter set' for rent to press off your ball joint... to press on, use that same set (different adapter) and supply your own flat metal... and google 'upper ball joints the easy way toyota'

make sure to do the rear first if you have adjustable 5100's... I did and I'm glad I did.

don't use the spring compressor that hooks to the sides of the springs.... find the one with a 'horse' shoe design... I think Harbor freight has it... and just buy it.

an air impact on the spring compressor will save you hours of tightening/loosening... I had battery and it died, then used a regular drill... almost died...

HAVE A BUDDY HELP YOU... seriously, work was so much easier and FASTER with a 2nd person...

ok pictures...

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/133970401@N04/26727577882/in/dateposted-public/" title="20160502_163338"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7084/26727577882_42fc6dcace_b.jpg" width="1024" height="576" alt="20160502_163338"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

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some specs...

before....
Front
driver .... passenger
34.37 ..... 34.5
34.63 ..... 35
rear

after...
front
driver .... passenger
36.37 ..... 36.25
36.25 ..... 36.37
rear

I'm 'level' and what's strange is the 'opposite' corner... but could be tire pressure/angle of tape measure... human error... what ever...
Click to expand...
The opposite corner is do to the OME 906 springs in the rear. They are side specific springs, on the little paper tag on the spring coil they are labeled. Coil A is a little longer and should be put on the left hand side to compensate for the weight of the gas tank and Coil B is for the rear right.
 
SnowLizard said:
Went camping, slept in the back with the seat down... not bad, it was way more quieter than a tent... until it started to hail/slush/snow on us.

sorry for crappy cell pics... this whole thread is made from my cell phone pics...
Click to expand...

The pictures are great man, crystal clear. What kind of cell phone do you have? lol
 
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