So Cal 4Runner BS Thread

[MENTION=133319]MACT4R[/MENTION] & [MENTION=128995]TK-422[/MENTION] and anyone else who can drop some knowledge:

So i'm setting up my Blue Sea fuse box. The fuse box will eventually hook up to lights, fridge and other junk.

I've since learned that the fuse box cannot link up to ARB air compressor or (I think) ARB front and rear lockers because they need higher amp fuses.

What I'd like to do though is to put the fuse box behind a circuit breaker/kill switch. I'd like the ARB air compress or and lockers to be behind that same circuit breaker/kill switch. This is mainly so I can shut off the kill switch and so the switches won't work inside the cabin.

I was originally going to put in a 100A kill switch since that'll cover the fuse box just fine. Do I need to go higher if I want the air compressor and lockers behind it also? Does any of this make sense to you guys?

I'd like to put in the fuse box and all wiring leading up to the fuse box soon, so that when it comes time to install lockers, I can tell the shop where to wire it rather than having them do whatever they feel like.

Thanks.
 
They like to repeat that it's a "Trail Edition (Black Roof Rails)" a lot - especially since it has a Gobi!
 
[MENTION=133319]MACT4R[/MENTION] & [MENTION=128995]TK-422[/MENTION] and anyone else who can drop some knowledge:

So i'm setting up my Blue Sea fuse box. The fuse box will eventually hook up to lights, fridge and other junk.

I've since learned that the fuse box cannot link up to ARB air compressor or (I think) ARB front and rear lockers because they need higher amp fuses.

What I'd like to do though is to put the fuse box behind a circuit breaker/kill switch. I'd like the ARB air compress or and lockers to be behind that same circuit breaker/kill switch. This is mainly so I can shut off the kill switch and so the switches won't work inside the cabin.

I was originally going to put in a 100A kill switch since that'll cover the fuse box just fine. Do I need to go higher if I want the air compressor and lockers behind it also? Does any of this make sense to you guys?

I'd like to put in the fuse box and all wiring leading up to the fuse box soon, so that when it comes time to install lockers, I can tell the shop where to wire it rather than having them do whatever they feel like.

Thanks.

The fridge should be able to run off of the Blue Sea just fine, assuming that you have appropriate gauge wire going to the fuse box from the battery. Now the 100 amp fuse, there is a calculation for gauge of wire and the distance it runs with the voltage in order to determine what that the fuse should be rated at. I have 4 gauge wire running 15 feet and it was recommended that I use a 50amp anl fuse.
 
The fridge should be able to run off of the Blue Sea just fine, assuming that you have appropriate gauge wire going to the fuse box from the battery. Now the 100 amp fuse, there is a calculation for gauge of wire and the distance it runs with the voltage in order to determine what that the fuse should be rated at. I have 4 gauge wire running 15 feet and it was recommended that I use a 50amp anl fuse.

i'll have a 4 gauge wire going from battery to the kill switch. probably be around a foot in length. to determine voltage, do I add the air compressor and the blue sea? is it just that simple? i'll have to figure out the voltage of the air compressor and lockers i guess.
 
[MENTION=133319]MACT4R[/MENTION] & [MENTION=128995]TK-422[/MENTION] and anyone else who can drop some knowledge:

So i'm setting up my Blue Sea fuse box. The fuse box will eventually hook up to lights, fridge and other junk.

I've since learned that the fuse box cannot link up to ARB air compressor or (I think) ARB front and rear lockers because they need higher amp fuses.

What I'd like to do though is to put the fuse box behind a circuit breaker/kill switch. I'd like the ARB air compress or and lockers to be behind that same circuit breaker/kill switch. This is mainly so I can shut off the kill switch and so the switches won't work inside the cabin.

I was originally going to put in a 100A kill switch since that'll cover the fuse box just fine. Do I need to go higher if I want the air compressor and lockers behind it also? Does any of this make sense to you guys?

I'd like to put in the fuse box and all wiring leading up to the fuse box soon, so that when it comes time to install lockers, I can tell the shop where to wire it rather than having them do whatever they feel like.

Thanks.

Can easily run the compressor off the battery, it does come with a wiring harness. I have 1/0 gauge running from my house battery to a fuse block in the rear fused @ 200a ANL fuse. I connected my ARB wiring harness directly to the pole that the 1/0 positive wire goes to, thereby passing the fuse block since the wiring harness has an inline fuse. Most of those fuse blocks just don't want you to exceed a total of 100a at the same time, likely to prevent melt down.

The fridge should be able to run off of the Blue Sea just fine, assuming that you have appropriate gauge wire going to the fuse box from the battery. Now the 100 amp fuse, there is a calculation for gauge of wire and the distance it runs with the voltage in order to determine what that the fuse should be rated at. I have 4 gauge wire running 15 feet and it was recommended that I use a 50amp anl fuse.

I just went overkill and made sure I had big enough wire to handle 100+ amps off the rear fuse block. I'll probably blow up the fuse block before I melt the wires or blow the fuse, haha. I won't even have 100a running off it at the same time though, at least that's the idea.
 
[MENTION=133319]MACT4R[/MENTION] & [MENTION=128995]TK-422[/MENTION] and anyone else who can drop some knowledge:

So i'm setting up my Blue Sea fuse box. The fuse box will eventually hook up to lights, fridge and other junk.

I've since learned that the fuse box cannot link up to ARB air compressor or (I think) ARB front and rear lockers because they need higher amp fuses.

What I'd like to do though is to put the fuse box behind a circuit breaker/kill switch. I'd like the ARB air compress or and lockers to be behind that same circuit breaker/kill switch. This is mainly so I can shut off the kill switch and so the switches won't work inside the cabin.

I was originally going to put in a 100A kill switch since that'll cover the fuse box just fine. Do I need to go higher if I want the air compressor and lockers behind it also? Does any of this make sense to you guys?

I'd like to put in the fuse box and all wiring leading up to the fuse box soon, so that when it comes time to install lockers, I can tell the shop where to wire it rather than having them do whatever they feel like.

Thanks.

I believe the arb compressor has there own wiring harness with a fuse. You can direct wire to a battery and bypass the fuse box. As far as the fridge, it's recommended to direct connect to the battery as well with an inline fuse. I have the 12v socket direct wired to the house battery with 10awg then the fridge plugs into the 12v socket. All I'm using the blue sea is the accessories such as led bar, pods, etc.
 
that's the idea of the fuse! [MENTION=123332]Drunner97[/MENTION]

Determine Fuse Size [MENTION=125434]violation[/MENTION]
Yeah I know, haha. I'll probably throw a 100a breaker in at some point. Reality of it is that I likely won't exceed 100a anyway. I've got the rear pods and a 12v plug at 30a each, and my USB plugs are fused at 10 each. That's 80a on the fuse block. Arb single and fridge are basically wired directly to the battery via the 1/0 gauge. Eventually I'll throw an led light strip up too, but I can fuse it at 10 or less. So I'll be just under the 200a on the 1/0 total.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
Can easily run the compressor off the battery, it does come with a wiring harness. I have 1/0 gauge running from my house battery to a fuse block in the rear fused @ 200a ANL fuse. I connected my ARB wiring harness directly to the pole that the 1/0 positive wire goes to, thereby passing the fuse block since the wiring harness has an inline fuse. Most of those fuse blocks just don't want you to exceed a total of 100a at the same time, likely to prevent melt down.

I believe the arb compressor has there own wiring harness with a fuse. You can direct wire to a battery and bypass the fuse box. As far as the fridge, it's recommended to direct connect to the battery as well with an inline fuse. I have the 12v socket direct wired to the house battery with 10awg then the fridge plugs into the 12v socket. All I'm using the blue sea is the accessories such as led bar, pods, etc.

ok fellas,

so the air compressor consumes 56 amps at maximum air flow, according to the ARB website.

the rear locker (RD132) runs a 30 amp fuse.

the front locker (RD90) runs a 30 amp fuse.

so it seems to me that i can run the front and rear lockers through the blue sea unit. i bought the 12 slot unit since i counted out that i wanted 8 total, though those 8 included the fridge, which means i've got more than enough slots.

let's assume i run the lockers through the blue sea unit. does that mean i need a kill switch rated at 160amp (100 for the blue sea + 60 for the air compressor)? alternatively, if i run the lockers separately using their own inline fuses, that means i need a 200amp breaker (100 + 60 + 30 + 30 with 10 to spare).

i don't know if i'm missing something after reading all of your posts, but i think i get how to measure what thickness/gauge of wire i need. but i'm trying to figure out what size circuit breaker/kill switch i want to run behind the battery but before both the air compressor and the blue sea unit.

EDIT: wait so i just re-read the ozium link. i guess the load doesn't matter so all my maths don't matter? Or does it mean i should run a wire thick enough to run 160 or 200 amps depending on the two options i described above (i.e., 1 or 2 gauge according to that chart) prior to the breaker?
 
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realistically though, i dont need a breaker ahead of the fuse box, right? i mean, it'll just be a fuse in front of other fuses.

all i need is this (battery kill switch):

http://amzn.to/2h0D9lU

mounted near the battery and ahead of everything else so i can turn it all off that way nobody can turn on my lockers, air compressor or any accessories unless they know to pop the hood and look for a kill switch. but some dumbass valet probably won't do that.
 
It was pretty much covered. I use the Blue Sea fuse block for the smaller amp stuff such as the headlights, off-road lights, Cadillac Horns when I get around to hooking them up.

For the larger draw stuff like air compressors and winches I would run them strait to the battery with an inline fuse of their own. To run everything off one kill switch you would want it to be able to run at max capacity like everything was all running at once. You would still have separate fuses for each device.
 
It was pretty much covered. I use the Blue Sea fuse block for the smaller amp stuff such as the headlights, off-road lights, Cadillac Horns when I get around to hooking them up.

For the larger draw stuff like air compressors and winches I would run them strait to the battery with an inline fuse of their own. To run everything off one kill switch you would want it to be able to run at max capacity like everything was all running at once. You would still have separate fuses for each device.
^ this. Compressor, lockers, winches, fridge, battery. Lights, comms, horns, 12v, USB ports, fuse block.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
It was pretty much covered. I use the Blue Sea fuse block for the smaller amp stuff such as the headlights, off-road lights, Cadillac Horns when I get around to hooking them up.

For the larger draw stuff like air compressors and winches I would run them strait to the battery with an inline fuse of their own. To run everything off one kill switch you would want it to be able to run at max capacity like everything was all running at once. You would still have separate fuses for each device.
[MENTION=125434]violation[/MENTION] TK summed it up best!

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 
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fvck. there's an ARB fridge group buy now.

If you're thinking about getting a fridge I would go with the indel B. I bought mine from truckfridge TruckFridge.com - Quality true 12 volt DC compressor refrigeration with freezer - Georgetown, KY Exit 129 next to Piolt Truck Center - many models to choose from.. Cheaper and has the Danfoss compressor, same as in the ARB. They had a sale and free shipping. I got a great deal with both fridge and slider discount & free shipping. I would call them and see if they have the same deal.
 
If you're thinking about getting a fridge I would go with the indel B. I bought mine from truckfridge TruckFridge.com - Quality true 12 volt DC compressor refrigeration with freezer - Georgetown, KY Exit 129 next to Piolt Truck Center - many models to choose from.. Cheaper and has the Danfoss compressor, same as in the ARB. They had a sale and free shipping. I got a great deal with both fridge and slider discount & free shipping. I would call them and see if they have the same deal.

Don't forget the portable washing machine since you guys are taking everything else...hahaha!!! You guys planning on living like Gypsies? That's not me BTW, cause not Asians look alike.

18smxl7kqi6jljpg.jpg
 
Don't forget the portable washing machine since you guys are taking everything else...hahaha!!! You guys planning on living like Gypsies? That's not me BTW, cause not Asians look alike.

18smxl7kqi6jljpg.jpg

:hurt: Who would think that's you Danny! You have a little longer hair! HAHA! That's another thing to add in the rig.
 

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