So I R&R'd my CV axles

B

blackfc3s

New member
And it was fun.

Basically I looked underneath my rig and found these problems...
IMG_3277_zpsjy8b7rhs.jpg~original

IMG_3282_zpsu56xylvd.jpg~original


Was not happy and since I had dealt with crappy chinese CV axle replacements from AutoZone before on an Audi, I decided an OEM reboot and re-grease was in order.

IMG_3276_zpscvae2bum.jpg~original


Don't forget those seals!

Halfway through
IMG_3278_zpsuu8orc9k.jpg~original


Fully disassembled and cleaned.
IMG_3279_zpsiyj9fwbf.jpg~original


Awaiting the grease.
IMG_3280_zpsni4tfxcf.jpg~original


annndddd DONE
IMG_3281_zpsk8j6c8a5.jpg~original



Overall, would do again. Its a messy job, but if you have a lot of rags and some brake clean, you'll be fine.
 
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So what all parts did you buy for the rebuild. I don't recognize everything you have there.

Considering doing this to my originals for spares.
 
having fun said:
So what all parts did you buy for the rebuild. I don't recognize everything you have there.

Considering doing this to my originals for spares.
Click to expand...

2x - Toyota Boots kits
2x - Steering knuckle seals
2x - differential oil seals (different part numbers for the drivers and passenger sides
 
Great thread! Thanks for posting your experience!

Would appreciate it if you could post the part numbers... Also, what grease did you use to pack them?
 
you're far more patient than I. I tried to do it with my OEM axles but it was such a mess i gave up. Nice work.
 
Nice work. I don't have the tools or the constitution for CV grease to take this on myself, but good on you.

I'm actually having buddy do this for me today. Reboots on both sides, a new water pump, a new serpentine belt, and a new radiator. The WP and radiator were leaking ("weeping") slowly, so I figured it was time.

$700 out the door. Ouch? Yes, but it could have been WAY worse from the crooks at the Yota dealership. They told me $1,900 sans radiator... ABSURD.

Should be good to go for many, many more miles.
 
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Bob J said:
Great thread! Thanks for posting your experience!

Would appreciate it if you could post the part numbers... Also, what grease did you use to pack them?
Click to expand...


00_4runner said:
Mind sharing the part numbers for the seals? I can't make out some in the pictures. Thanks!
Click to expand...

04427-60140 is for the boot kits. This includes both inboard and outboard boots, cv bands, grease for both boots, and clips. Stealership price $48.37 per kit.

90311-47013 is the passengers side differential seal. Stealership price of $17.41

90311-47012 is the drivers side differential seal. Stealership price of $10.49

(X2) 90316-A0001 is the seal for the steering knuckle. This keeps dirt, water, and other debris out of your wheel bearing. Stealership price of $34.16

I paid $192.96 when the dealership quoted me $749.99 for the same job. It was a no brainer for me to do the work myself. I bought some tools for the job and still made out ahead.

Buy online and avoid the stealership markup.
 
LTDSC said:
you're far more patient than I. I tried to do it with my OEM axles but it was such a mess i gave up. Nice work.
Click to expand...

The only thing that motivated me was the green I would be saving by doing it myself and Big Sky Brewing Moose Drool at the end. :cheers:
 
blackfc3s said:
04427-60140 is for the boot kits. This includes both inboard and outboard boots, cv bands, grease for both boots, and clips. Stealership price $48.37 per kit.

90311-47013 is the passengers side differential seal. Stealership price of $17.41

90311-47012 is the drivers side differential seal. Stealership price of $10.49

(X2) 90316-A0001 is the seal for the steering knuckle. This keeps dirt, water, and other debris out of your wheel bearing. Stealership price of $34.16

I paid $192.96 when the dealership quoted me $749.99 for the same job. It was a no brainer for me to do the work myself. I bought some tools for the job and still made out ahead.

Buy online and avoid the stealership markup.
Click to expand...

Looks good. I went through this same process when dealing with mine. The OEM boot kits were so expensive, it was cheaper for me to get remanufactured OEM axles from Autozone or NAPA. Think I paid $90 plus the aftermarket differential seals from NAPA (worked perfectly and six months later still leak free), excluding core charge. I had to go to a couple different stores before finding two acceptable axles, but I didn't want to take the time and deal with the mess of rebooting, especially when the cost favored the reman.
 
bamma said:
Looks good. I went through this same process when dealing with mine. The OEM boot kits were so expensive, it was cheaper for me to get remanufactured OEM axles from Autozone or NAPA. Think I paid $90 plus the aftermarket differential seals from NAPA (worked perfectly and six months later still leak free), excluding core charge. I had to go to a couple different stores before finding two acceptable axles, but I didn't want to take the time and deal with the mess of rebooting, especially when the cost favored the reman.
Click to expand...

I just have never trusted cv axles from Napa or AutoZone. I got some remans for my old audi and one didn't even have any grease in it. Id rather do it once and pay a little more to have the job done right.

To each their own.
 
blackfc3s said:
I just have never trusted cv axles from Napa or AutoZone. I got some remans for my old audi and one didn't even have any grease in it. Id rather do it once and pay a little more to have the job done right.

To each their own.
Click to expand...

I agree, I just dont have the patience to reboot when it costs me more $$$. As much as I like working on my car, if a good mechanic can do it cheaper, I am not doing it. I am guessing the oem boots are probably better too. That is why I carefully select the ones I purchase. Cardone had different grades of remans that get sent to NAPA, but NAPA has no way to differentiate. I always take the time to find top grade remans. They have held up well for me.
 
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