88tanrunner
New member
Man, that is a clean truck! What kind of rim's are you running?
Sold Range Rover Classic and bought a gen 1
- Thread starter mscuil
- Start date
They came on the truck, but believe they are American Racing AR172 Baja. Not my cup of tea, but I have plenty of other things I want to change like removing the body lift which also means bumpers... I'll get there eventually
Redthies
New member
Going from 33-12.50 to 33-10.50s would help a LOT! Steering, braking, acceleration and fuel economy will all improve substantially by going 2” narrower. You could gain some more by going to 31s, but I think 33s are the perfect size for these 1st gens. You highway speeds may actually decrease with 31s due to higher overall gearing. You would be quicker up the hills (possibly) but slower at higher rpm on the flats. Just keep in mind that you are driving a 30+ year old truck. It’s not meant to be quick!
Going to 10.5's would allow me to remove the body lift as well? (if I read correctly) I understand the truck is old, but my International Scout could still cruise at 75 without overdrive, as well as the Range Rover Classic. The 4R just wasn't geared for the tire size by the po so trying to decide if I rather go to 4.88's or move to a smaller tire. I do love the 33's on it though, just don't much like seeing so much of the frame.
I did a bit of work on my day off yesterday, first trying to replace the vent window seal that causes quite a bit of noise. Unfortunately the part that I ordered did not match what is actually on the truck. The truck has a seal that extends to a point at the front, whereas the replacement seal that I ordered through a dealer is flat, which would leave a large gap. I will need to research this a bit before ordering again.
I then removed the sad original horn which sounded like a sick sheep, and installed a Stebel Nautilius. This may piss some of you off but I trimmed the grill to fit it rather than mounting in the engine bay. The grill already has cracks and flaws so I did not mind cutting into it.
Finally I installed a mount for my portable radio. I am in the middle of studying for the HAM Technician License, testing in August, so excited to be able to use it.
Redthies
New member
What engine do you have? 22RE? My truck is fine with 33x10.50s with the V6 auto and 4.30 gears. The 5 speed should be a bit better? Is your suspension original? I’m running OME and have lots of wheel well clearance. I’m not a fan of body lifts either, but if your springs are still original, you will probably want to upgrade them whether you go to 31s or skinny 33s. They do make a 32x11.50 as a middle ground, or if you go to 16” or 17” wheels the metric size options are huge.
The truck is a 3.0 with a 5 speed. Unsure on suspension, assumed oem.
Redthies
New member
You most likely have the 4.10 gears then. One relatively easy solution is to swap out the 3rds for 4.88 ones. They are quite common in the 2nd Gen 4Runners, and bolt right in. That would bring up your mpgs and help with drivability. In the pics you’ve posted, the frame doesn’t look like it sticks out too much. Probably easier to keep rust at bay if you can get to the top of the frame too?
That is one optimistic way of looking at it, and is a good point. I am in Michigan after all. I will take a look at the thirds and think on it for awhile.
After growing tired of the missing side emblems, I ordered a set.
I then adjusted the passenger side mirror which keeps losing adjustment:
The truck gets its first longer shakedown this weekend. I am taking my gf and pup up to camp and follow a GAIA route i worked on in the national forest a few hours from me over the weekend. I am very excited.
Nice looking truck! Nice Range Rover too. A friend of mine just bought one and broke a door handle (exterior). Has managed to find a new one but it's $300AUD! Made me glad to own a Toyota.
Regarding the vent window seal, the one you've received looks like it is for a later model with the door mirror in the corner. Googling confirms 88-94. P/No. for your truck would be 6818189105 (RH) and 6818289105 (LH).
If you do end up going new rubbers, a quick rundown of how they're installed would be great. I've started swapping the doors on my truck as it didn't come with vents, and have got one rubber installed though the door trim does not sit properly and the vent window does not open/close properly.
Regarding the vent window seal, the one you've received looks like it is for a later model with the door mirror in the corner. Googling confirms 88-94. P/No. for your truck would be 6818189105 (RH) and 6818289105 (LH).
If you do end up going new rubbers, a quick rundown of how they're installed would be great. I've started swapping the doors on my truck as it didn't come with vents, and have got one rubber installed though the door trim does not sit properly and the vent window does not open/close properly.
boscounderfoot
New member
Nice 4Runner, you're definitely going to have fun with it. The soft top is the way to go, I have not had my hard top on since I bought my softtopper three years ago. The things are pretty bullet proof provided you don't try rolling the sides or back up when it gets below 40ish.
Your 33's look really good, but I agree with you on the body lift being less than ideal, and pretty unattractive as well. I'm currently running....or was running before I began the 1uz swap.....285/75Rx16 on stock Toyota 16x7 18-hole steelies. I went a different way on the lift this time, 10 turns on the stock torsion bars up front, with a 2" lift block kit on the rear and Bilstein HD shocks all the way around. Even with the ARB bumper and winch, the truck doesn't rub at all.....and I wheeled the crap out of it (duhhh) after installing the front and rear ARB air lockers and 5.29's. It's been a stellar setup, so much so, I installed the same thing on my '92 4Runner.
I would avoid the OME rear springs, I had them on my old '89 from eight years ago and they were unbelievably stiff and rode way too harsh. I even pulled the pack apart and eliminated two of the leafs and found little difference, although the rake wasn't as severe. Also the same goes for the torsion bars......way too stiff. Stock bars can be adjusted comfortably to 1.5" provided your running aftermarket bumpers, winch, etc.
Beautiful rig dude!!!
Your 33's look really good, but I agree with you on the body lift being less than ideal, and pretty unattractive as well. I'm currently running....or was running before I began the 1uz swap.....285/75Rx16 on stock Toyota 16x7 18-hole steelies. I went a different way on the lift this time, 10 turns on the stock torsion bars up front, with a 2" lift block kit on the rear and Bilstein HD shocks all the way around. Even with the ARB bumper and winch, the truck doesn't rub at all.....and I wheeled the crap out of it (duhhh) after installing the front and rear ARB air lockers and 5.29's. It's been a stellar setup, so much so, I installed the same thing on my '92 4Runner.
I would avoid the OME rear springs, I had them on my old '89 from eight years ago and they were unbelievably stiff and rode way too harsh. I even pulled the pack apart and eliminated two of the leafs and found little difference, although the rake wasn't as severe. Also the same goes for the torsion bars......way too stiff. Stock bars can be adjusted comfortably to 1.5" provided your running aftermarket bumpers, winch, etc.
Beautiful rig dude!!!
Attachments
Redthies
New member
I don’t get it. Everyone slams OME suspension for the 1st gens, yet that is what the PO installed in mine just before I bought it, and it rides amazingly well. Not stiff or harsh at all...
You guys do know OME offers lifts in “light”, “medium” and “heavy”, right? If you buy “heavies” and then install them on a truck that runs around empty, yes, they will ride like crap. “Lights” are for empty trucks, “mediums” for winch bumpers and swingout tire/Jerry carriers, and “heavies” for full blown expo rigs with drawer systems, roof racks etc too.
You guys do know OME offers lifts in “light”, “medium” and “heavy”, right? If you buy “heavies” and then install them on a truck that runs around empty, yes, they will ride like crap. “Lights” are for empty trucks, “mediums” for winch bumpers and swingout tire/Jerry carriers, and “heavies” for full blown expo rigs with drawer systems, roof racks etc too.
Thanks for the tip! No luck sourcing that part however, as they are discontinued and the last two orders were cancelled and refunded due to the dealers not actually having them in stock. I will keep searching.
I got around to having the muffler replaced to nip some leaks:
The previous was welded straight on, so the shop installed a flange to make future replacements easier:
I was practicing route planning using Gaia this weekend with the pup:
I started tracking dispersed campsites as waypoints so I can have options for quick overnights:
As the gf was not with us, rather than setting up a tent, I decided to try sleeping inside the truck. I think I want to somehow add a folding section to either side to make the platform wider when sleeping, but still allow access into the quarters:
I destroyed a cv over the weekend, so truck is going to the shop for a new axle up front before a few upcoming trips. I started digging into it yesterday but quickly decided a shop with a bigger compressor will make quick work of it.
The previous was welded straight on, so the shop installed a flange to make future replacements easier:
I was practicing route planning using Gaia this weekend with the pup:
I started tracking dispersed campsites as waypoints so I can have options for quick overnights:
As the gf was not with us, rather than setting up a tent, I decided to try sleeping inside the truck. I think I want to somehow add a folding section to either side to make the platform wider when sleeping, but still allow access into the quarters:
I destroyed a cv over the weekend, so truck is going to the shop for a new axle up front before a few upcoming trips. I started digging into it yesterday but quickly decided a shop with a bigger compressor will make quick work of it.
The truck started idling slightly worse recently. I came home from work yesterday and the truck sat maybe an hour, cooling, but on my way to my HAM Technician test on the highway, the truck started missing badly, almost like a surge or no power then back on, causing quite the bucking. It seems to be much worse at low rpm and high load, 5th gear on the freeway for example, under 3k rpm. The engine temps looked normal but the truck was warm from having been driven from work to home and then to the test. The CEL came on but then went back off a couple of times. The same happened on my way home from the test, about an hour later.
This morning, the truck seemed fine, so possibly temp related. Now as I dont know the entire history of the truck, I figured I better start with checking the coil, cap/rotor, plugs and wires to ensure nothing is arcing. I also figured I could check for vacuum leaks while the truck is running with some carb cleaner but i would think a vaccuum leak would cause a constant rough idle, not just on the highway or under load. I did not get any CEL this morning, and the truck ran without losing power, but I also did notice that if I was under 2500rpm, I felt the roughness, maybe just a cylinder not firing (injector, coil pack, compression, etc?)
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I am supposed to be taking it on a four hour drive to Hocking Hills this weekend.
This morning, the truck seemed fine, so possibly temp related. Now as I dont know the entire history of the truck, I figured I better start with checking the coil, cap/rotor, plugs and wires to ensure nothing is arcing. I also figured I could check for vacuum leaks while the truck is running with some carb cleaner but i would think a vaccuum leak would cause a constant rough idle, not just on the highway or under load. I did not get any CEL this morning, and the truck ran without losing power, but I also did notice that if I was under 2500rpm, I felt the roughness, maybe just a cylinder not firing (injector, coil pack, compression, etc?)
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I am supposed to be taking it on a four hour drive to Hocking Hills this weekend.
I pulled the code, 14 Ignition signal. I have new plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor, and a fuel filter on the way. Figured I should take care of those anyways seeing the age they show. I need to read up on testing the coil. Hoping it's something along those lines rather than the igniter. Fingers crossed.
Knowing it was ignition related, I decided to just replace most of the components simply due to their age. It is a good thing I did, as it looked to be a combination of the rotor having a broken connection inside, as well as the cap being worn down. The wires looked ok on initial inspection but I didn't test them, simply replaced. I am used to a Rover so was very surprised and thrilled at the cost and availability of parts.
The air filter had an interesting hole, maybe from a mouse when sitting at the po's home:
My first look at the rotor:
The broken connection, which could have been fractured and simply died once i pulled the rotor off:
Inside the cap:
I also replaced the coil even though it passed my tests, but will keep it as a spare for the trails. I cleared the code and voila, the cel flashed constant when checking for the code. The truck idles so much better, and feels like a different vehicle. Thank goodness! :dancin:
The air filter had an interesting hole, maybe from a mouse when sitting at the po's home:
My first look at the rotor:
The broken connection, which could have been fractured and simply died once i pulled the rotor off:
Inside the cap:
I also replaced the coil even though it passed my tests, but will keep it as a spare for the trails. I cleared the code and voila, the cel flashed constant when checking for the code. The truck idles so much better, and feels like a different vehicle. Thank goodness! :dancin:
I had a few issues with the combined switch, namely that occasionally over a bump, the headlights would go out and the high beam indicator would be on. I found a helpful post here and decided to clean the contacts before ordering a replacement. The lights worked flawlessly on the 5 hour drive to Hocking Hills this weekend. The truck was also MUCH better on the highway, only needing me to shift on long hills.
We stayed at a small "rustic" cabin complete with a refrigerator for drinks and a hot tub. It was nice not having anything to set up when we arrived late Friday evening.
We stayed at a small "rustic" cabin complete with a refrigerator for drinks and a hot tub. It was nice not having anything to set up when we arrived late Friday evening.
After losing power after coming home from work yesterday, I decided I had better get around to replacing the spark plugs as I had already replaced many other components in the ignition system. I got to the last plug and SNAP, it sheered off, leaving the threads in place. I was out of gas for my torch so was unable to remove using the spiral extractor. I will pick up gas and more penetrating oil today, and have a square extractor set being delivered today. Fingers crossed that I can get the threads out.
I also noticed, when getting my tool roll out of the truck, that the swingout bumper that came on the truck has a nice sized crack in it. I imagine the tire is too heavy for the material used. Debating on having it repaired versus dropping cash for a 4x4 Labs bumper. Not a great afternoon. I dont want to replace it until I figure out what lift to run, so I can remove the body lift rending the bumpers useless without cutting and welding.
I also noticed, when getting my tool roll out of the truck, that the swingout bumper that came on the truck has a nice sized crack in it. I imagine the tire is too heavy for the material used. Debating on having it repaired versus dropping cash for a 4x4 Labs bumper. Not a great afternoon. I dont want to replace it until I figure out what lift to run, so I can remove the body lift rending the bumpers useless without cutting and welding.
