Some Rust and Lift Questions

[Mandelbaum]

Hello everyone!

I finally got the truck up on a lift the other day so I could do a good inspection of the suspension components and other parts of the undercarriage. I'm in the process of shopping for lift components but I wanted to beseech some of the more experienced members here to give me their opinion on my rust problems. To me, it looks only like surface rust for most of the components but I'm not experienced enough to notice if I'm missing anything important. I'd like to continue to modify the truck to include a 3" suspension lift but my issue is debating whether or not to find the "rust free honey" I've always wanted or to consider what I have as good enough.

Truck was bought in New York where the salt does some work.

On a second note, my dust shields by the front brakes are rusted through. Is there anything wrong with me taking a cutoff wheel to it to remove the corroded metal?

Gas tank skid is in terrible shape and I'll probably be looking for/fabricating a new set of plates in the future.

 

[Scramble]

wow, I've never seen dust shields that bad. The big problem could be frame rot. Take pics of the frame & post them here. Especially on the rear passenger side. It really bothers me when previous owners don't take care of their rig when they live in the salt belt.

 

[Scramble]

See the drain hole. That doesn't look so hot.

 

[LookAtThatDog]

That's pretty much how mine looks. I lifted mine and daily drive it. It comes down to money really - You're never gonna get the money you put into the truck back out of it. I had this same predicament and just used the truck I had. I knew it had been taken care of, and I knew all the stuff wrong with it. The problem with new cars/trucks is that you don't know what's wrong with them, and there's always something wrong with them.

There's no clear answer for me. I won't blame you if you try to find something less rusty or if you just work with the one you have. Both mentalities exist on this site. Good luck!

 

[Kmurt]

Too much rust for my liking. My 4runner spent all of its life in NJ and doesn't look anything close to that.

When I look at buying any vehicle the first thing I do is look at the undercarriage before anything else. My .02 cents.

 

[bmodo16]

I just replied to your post on my thread. Mine is in a similar state to yours I'd say. Can you weld? Or do you know anyone? That makes up for rotting away metal. That was my key to taking on my project. I have a few things that need serious attention and other that can wait. It all depends on your skill and how much of a project you want to take on. I'm new to runners but not to offroad vehicles or rusty ones at that. Hit me up if you've got more questions.

A good grinder and wire wheel will answer a lot of questions. Is the frame soft?

 

[SpidermanGeek]

That's pretty much how mine looks. I lifted mine and daily drive it. It comes down to money really - You're never gonna get the money you put into the truck back out of it. I had this same predicament and just used the truck I had. I knew it had been taken care of, and I knew all the stuff wrong with it. The problem with new cars/trucks is that you don't know what's wrong with them, and there's always something wrong with them.

There's no clear answer for me. I won't blame you if you try to find something less rusty or if you just work with the one you have. Both mentalities exist on this site. Good luck!

I constantly fight the urge to needlessly dump money into my rig as well. The undercarriage on my rig would be considered rusty (but still solid as far as I can tell), but it comes down to trying to decide on what preventive maintenance is a good idea and letting other things just slide into the If-it-ain't-broke-don't-fix-it column.

It's a 19 year old truck with 180K Miles on it. It's paid its dues (and still continues to). Considering what I paid for it, I should just drive it until it falls apart and it would pay for itself that way...BUT.. I love this rig and I fantasize about doing a full frame off resto of it, lol. Pipe dreams.

 

[madcanvis]

I constantly fight the urge to needlessly dump money into my rig as well. The undercarriage on my rig would be considered rusty (but still solid as far as I can tell), but it comes down to trying to decide on what preventive maintenance is a good idea and letting other things just slide into the If-it-ain't-broke-don't-fix-it column.

X2
Glad I'm not the only one!! Crazy but true

And when you do go to fix it add an hour to the time required estimates because you're either going to prepare the bolts under there for removal or god forbid snap a bolt head.

Be sure to keep an eye on that welded on rear dif cover.

 

[m88tow]

You should be checking both sides of the inner frame right where the lower control arms mount, so right next to the muffler and right behind the gas tank....that is the first part these frames usually fail in. Only thing you can do is patch the frame to what's left of solid frame....I have done it on my truck and it's working well. But if you want to spend thousands on a suspension set up then I think you should find something cleaner to start with otherwise eventually you will be pulling it all off the rusty frame truck and selling it or transferring it to your new truck.

 

[volkinator]

Most of it looks superficial. Mine wasn't in much better shape... the dust shields were definitely not that bad though. One concern for my would be the panhard bracket on the axle. Looks a little more than surface. I'd also be curious about the inner frame rail where the Lower Control Arm bracket is in the rear. Both sides (exhaust and gas tank) That's where you'll actually get the rot...

With mine, I spent a good weekend underneath with wire wheels on an angle grinder. worked wonders and got all the flakes off. Went through with the eastwood rust converter and chassis paint afterwards and it looks good as new.

The rear axle doesn't look bad. Definitely doesn't look like any concern. the 'orange peel' isn't horrible. I used POR15 on my axle, and it also worked really well and went on easy.

None of it is cheap, but if you want it to last longer, it's a good place to start. I did all of that this summer, and this fall used fluid film on it. It cleans up nicely now in the slushy winters. I'll have a better idea in the spring when I can do a thorough inspection underneath.

IMHO it's worth taking the time to do it right... I think I've put ~$200 into 'rust mitigation' but it's the labor that's a lot. I've probably got 40+ hours into it all said and done.

 

[Scramble]

Most of it looks superficial. Mine wasn't in much better shape... the dust shields were definitely not that bad though. One concern for my would be the panhard bracket on the axle. Looks a little more than surface. I'd also be curious about the inner frame rail where the Lower Control Arm bracket is in the rear. Both sides (exhaust and gas tank) That's where you'll actually get the rot...

With mine, I spent a good weekend underneath with wire wheels on an angle grinder. worked wonders and got all the flakes off. Went through with the eastwood rust converter and chassis paint afterwards and it looks good as new.

The rear axle doesn't look bad. Definitely doesn't look like any concern. the 'orange peel' isn't horrible. I used POR15 on my axle, and it also worked really well and went on easy.

None of it is cheap, but if you want it to last longer, it's a good place to start. I did all of that this summer, and this fall used fluid film on it. It cleans up nicely now in the slushy winters. I'll have a better idea in the spring when I can do a thorough inspection underneath.

IMHO it's worth taking the time to do it right... I think I've put ~$200 into 'rust mitigation' but it's the labor that's a lot. I've probably got 40+ hours into it all said and done.

This is what I need to do. I also need to research spraying the inside of the frame.

 

[volkinator]

This is what I need to do. I also need to research spraying the inside of the frame.

I've heard good things about lifting the front and spraying down into the frame to get as much junk out as possible. Let it dry. Then I'd recommend something like this. 3M Internal Frame Wax

I work for 3M and we make some pretty awesome stuff. I also know that eastwood makes a similar product. Either way, it's a good idea. And the Fluid Film for everything on the outside. That's what I did, and it seems to be holding up well.

 

[Scramble]

I've heard good things about lifting the front and spraying down into the frame to get as much junk out as possible. Let it dry. Then I'd recommend something like this. 3M Internal Frame Wax

I work for 3M and we make some pretty awesome stuff. I also know that eastwood makes a similar product. Either way, it's a good idea. And the Fluid Film for everything on the outside. That's what I did, and it seems to be holding up well.

I do spray out the inside with the power washer but definitely need to look into the Internal frame wax. Thanks!

 

[volkinator]

I do spray out the inside with the power washer but definitely need to look into the Internal frame wax. Thanks!

No problem! Now get the SC installed! c'mon!

 

[Scramble]

No problem! Now get the SC installed! c'mon!

I know! I was supposed to do it before the winter but now it's too cold. I don't have a garage. I'm trying to set up a Saturday soon with an old friend who's a mechanic. He's only about 45 min from me.

 

[Mandelbaum]

Thanks all for the replies. I'll head out soon and snap a few more pictures of the frame points that got brought up.

Anybody have any input on whether I need the dust shields or if I can just cut parts of them off? I'd prefer not to disassemble the entire bearing just to remove the decrepit dust shield but I imagine that cutting off the outer portions of the disk would prevent shards from ending up in my tires.

 

[m88tow]

Just cut them off, they are shot anyways.

 

[volkinator]

Yeah, I'd cut them off. Easier and be done with it. Everything should be pretty well protected unless you run some ridiculous spacers or something.