Sonoran Steel lift install

[Styer]

Spent almost all of Saturday installing my Sonoran Steel lift and Camburg UCAs. I started the lift install around 10am. Finished installing the fronts around 3pm and then took a break for lunch. After lunch I attacked the rears and the replacement adjustable panhard bar. Finally finishing up around 6pm.

STOCK Measurements Floor to Fender

Front Driver 34 1/4"
Front Passenger 34 7/8"
Rear Driver 36 1/2"
Rear Passenger 36 1/4"


LIFTED Measurements Floor to Fender

Front Driver 37 3/8"
Front Passenger 38"
Rear Driver 38 3/8"
Rear Passenger 38 1/8"

OVERALL LIFT
FRONT= 3 1/8"
REAR= 1 7/8"(should mention I have the 3rd row option)

Kept some of the factory rake which is exactly what I wanted.

 

[sschaefer3]

Looks Good!

 

[IceCold81]

Going to check back here shortly, don't have to much time to chat... But [MENTION=1795]sschaefer3[/MENTION] your a local fella and I sure do like some of the things I'm reading! Would love to chat soon.



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[IceCold81]

[MENTION=52646]2010riddle[/MENTION] This is exacty what I'm thinking I'm trying to accomplish! You have my exact truck only mine doesn't have tires/lift yet.

I like your stance and you said your at about a 2" lift in front right? Hows everything feel?

Hey [MENTION=1795]sschaefer3[/MENTION] anything like this you offer? I'm not looking to push the 3" lift level, just looking for a bit more height on a solid set of gear.

Another satisfied customer posting to vouch for Steve's incredible service & great product.



I went a little different route and installed the TRD springs on the 2nd perch (0.85") of the 5100's, which yielded me exactly 2" upfront and I am exactly level driver to passenger. I also went with the Camburg BJ arms through Steve and I got 3.2+ caster both sides and 285's clear with no rubbing (I did Harper7's fender liner mod before tire install). The SAW springs are from another member who ran them with a rear bumper for a bit, so I ended up with only 1.5" rear lift. Thanks again Steve!

 

[sschaefer3]

We don't carry the 1.5" rear springs just the 2" rear springs. I don't think 1/2" in the rear is going to make much of a difference. The front is adjustable and can be set lower. You could do a 2" front and 2" rear.

Steve

 

[IceCold81]

We don't carry the 1.5" rear springs just the 2" rear springs. I don't think 1/2" in the rear is going to make much of a difference. The front is adjustable and can be set lower. You could do a 2" front and 2" rear.

Steve

Pardon my ignorance lol this is ALL new to me, I've NEVER owned a truck before or done suspension/lift mods... So if I put a new coil in back, with whatever set up you have it would actually raise 2" from it's current stance correct? So with a 2" in front I would still have the factory rake right? Is there any way of doing a SLIGHTLY higher lift in front to try to level with whatever the coil option is for the rear? Or at least come close to level? I just don't want to go jacking the truck way up in the air due to fear of alignment, Control arm and CV angle issues etc.

What do you think would be a good setup to get my stance right

Btw, I want to thank you for any feedback or advice in advance

 

[2010riddle]

[MENTION=52646]2010riddle[/MENTION] This is exacty what I'm thinking I'm trying to accomplish! You have my exact truck only mine doesn't have tires/lift yet.

I like your stance and you said your at about a 2" lift in front right? Hows everything feel?

[MENTION=127718]IceCold81[/MENTION] - Feels perfect - no regrets or anything I would change. I replaced my UCAs for better alignment - highly recommend that decision. I know its a significant additional cost, but its made an even greater significant impact on the overall handling.....

 

[sschaefer3]

Pardon my ignorance lol this is ALL new to me, I've NEVER owned a truck before or done suspension/lift mods...


So if I put a new coil in back, with whatever set up you have it would actually raise 2" from it's current stance correct?

*** YES

So with a 2" in front I would still have the factory rake right?

*** YES

Is there any way of doing a SLIGHTLY higher lift in front to try to level with whatever the coil option is for the rear?

*** Yes it goes higher and lower.

Or at least come close to level?

*** I would do 3" front and 2" rear, that is very close to level and if you put cargo init will not sag.

I just don't want to go jacking the truck way up in the air due to fear of alignment, Control arm and CV angle issues etc.

*** You will not have any issues as long as you follow the formula.

What do you think would be a good setup to get my stance right.

*** Same as everyone else, 3" front and 2" rear.

 

[IceCold81]

lol [MENTION=1795]sschaefer3[/MENTION] I like your style! That was efficient level PRO! haha.

Hey so I guess now that your saying 3" am I going to have fear of CV angle distress issues with the topic I see floating around.

And going all the way to 3" in the front is that going to create an absolute "NEED" for UCA's to be replaced?

I'm in a position now where I am obsessing over the details and options that exist for our trucks regarding lifts so I do it once the right way and not twice to fix the wrong way ya know?

Pardon my ignorance lol this is ALL new to me, I've NEVER owned a truck before or done suspension/lift mods...


So if I put a new coil in back, with whatever set up you have it would actually raise 2" from it's current stance correct?

*** YES

So with a 2" in front I would still have the factory rake right?

*** YES

Is there any way of doing a SLIGHTLY higher lift in front to try to level with whatever the coil option is for the rear?

*** Yes it goes higher and lower.

Or at least come close to level?

*** I would do 3" front and 2" rear, that is very close to level and if you put cargo init will not sag.

I just don't want to go jacking the truck way up in the air due to fear of alignment, Control arm and CV angle issues etc.

*** You will not have any issues as long as you follow the formula.

What do you think would be a good setup to get my stance right.

*** Same as everyone else, 3" front and 2" rear.

 

[sschaefer3]

Hey so I guess now that your saying 3" am I going to have fear of CV angle distress issues with the topic I see floating around.

*** No

And going all the way to 3" in the front is that going to create an absolute "NEED" for UCA's to be replaced?

*** No, but you will get a better alignment with them. Do it right the first time.

 

[IceCold81]

Hey so I guess now that your saying 3" am I going to have fear of CV angle distress issues with the topic I see floating around.

*** No

And going all the way to 3" in the front is that going to create an absolute "NEED" for UCA's to be replaced?

*** No, but you will get a better alignment with them. Do it right the first time.

I guess the issue I've been seeing is when replacing the UCA's there's a open ball joint in comparison and requires more "Attention/care" then the stock option? Still uncovering details on all this stuff so I know what I'm getting myself into.


Hey but again... I really appreciate you taking the time to comment with feedback. Every bit I can get is invaluable while I work on what my decision will end up being.

 

[Styer]

I guess the issue I've been seeing is when replacing the UCA's there's a open ball joint in comparison and requires more "Attention/care" then the stock option? Still uncovering details on all this stuff so I know what I'm getting myself into.


Hey but again... I really appreciate you taking the time to comment with feedback. Every bit I can get is invaluable while I work on what my decision will end up being.

Go with the Camburg UCAs with Moog BALL JOINTS. These ball joins are the exact same style as factory. They will be much more reliable. You can get them already assembled from wheelers.

What you are thinking about are the UCAs with uniballs which are stronger but require more regular maintenance.

 

[sschaefer3]

The 2 arms I recommend both used sealed ball joints. There is no exposed ball.

Camburg or Light Racing, both are seal ball joint arms.

 

[IceCold81]

Go with the Camburg UCAs with Moog BALL JOINTS. These ball joins are the exact same style as factory. They will be much more reliable. You can get them already assembled from wheelers.

What you are thinking about are the UCAs with uniballs which are stronger but require more regular maintenance.

Ohh yea my bad, see told ya... rookie lol... those are the ones I meant the Uniballs. Thanks for clearing that up for me
[MENTION=117087]Styer[/MENTION] is wheelers a good site to buy from? I'm unfamiliar


.

 

[IceCold81]

The 2 arms I recommend both used sealed ball joints. There is no exposed ball.

Camburg or Light Racing, both are seal ball joint arms.

Perfect! That helps me then feel better about maybe doing them. Hey so [MENTION=1795]sschaefer3[/MENTION] do you do all this stuff like install/sales etc?



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[sschaefer3]

Yes. Install is $450.00

Lift Kit is here:

Sonoran Steel Toyota 4 Runner Lift (2010+) - $1,270.00 : Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts

 

[Bighead2001]

It's almost like Steve has done this before....

:thumb:

 

[Partitanium]

I feel like I'm asking a dumb question but the 1.2 and 2.5 system is only for the 3rd generation 4runners right? I have a 2011 4runner LE. I have researched countless lifts and Sonoran steel seems to be the best on road comfort i can find especially for a reasonable price and also good off road. I'm going to be ordering a lift this week on your site so expect it .

 

[Styer]

I feel like I'm asking a dumb question but the 1.2 and 2.5 system is only for the 3rd generation 4runners right? I have a 2011 4runner LE. I have researched countless lifts and Sonoran steel seems to be the best on road comfort i can find especially for a reasonable price and also good off road. I'm going to be ordering a lift this week on your site so expect it .

Yep those are for the 3rd gen. The 5th gen lift only comes in one flavor. So far I am loving mine. Only had it installed for a week so far. On road ride is great! Just a little firmer but really takes care of the nose dive and floatyness problems. Haven't really tested it off road yet. But I am headed to choccolocco mountain this weekend if my schedule allows for the SFWDA meet and ride.

 

[sschaefer3]

The company started in 2001 with 3rd gen 4Runners. At that time there were no 2.5's and the offering for the 4Runner was slim.

The 1.2, 7.2 and old 3.0 kits are all 3rd gen specific. The old 3rd gens need more tweeking to get to the same place the 5th gens and FJ's get to easier.

Once there they are on par, but is is easier to lift a newer 4Runner.

The plan old Sonoran Steel 5th gen 4Runner lift kit is moving the 3rd Gen 1.2 over to the 5th gen. There is no 7.2 or 3.0 equivalent for the 5th gen.

The 5th gen has options like the Radflo or other companies 2.5 shocks. These kits have much more bling, but all the kits will wheel and drive very well.

Radflo shocks are rebuild-able and serviceable, Bilstein 5100 you throw away and get a new one. Both will run a very long time. Radflo, Icon, King etc do not have to be re-built all the time that is an internet myth, but they do loose the nitrogen charge faster than a canister shock like the Bilstein 5100. The hand made shocks can be re-charged on the truck by anyone with charging equipment. Poly Performance sells the gear to re-charge hand made shocks. Bilstein 5100 series you throw away and get a new one.

So we have the TRD/Bilstein based kit which is the 1.2, 3rd gen kit moved over to a 5th gen and then the Radflo 2.5 kits.