SOS! Mounting Bizarro Symptoms!!

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rwh963

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I may need an electrical genius lol. if you have a couple of hours to spare, below are links to two threads discussing weird issues i have been experiencing.

Brake lights constantly on?

Weird throttle/acceleration hesitation

if you don't have two hours to spare, here is a very brief summary:

1) people notified me my brake lights are constantly on
2) VSC/TRAC/SLIPPERY CAR SYMBOL is always on
3) acceleration drop outs chronically occurring
4) door locks may be locking themselves
5) most recently, brake lights (all three) are remaining on AFTER the key is removed. they may spontaneously go off/back on, sometimes flicker if i slam doors, sometimes go out if i slam doors.
6) key-in-ignition chime may stay on even with key out of ignition

these are the most prominent symptoms. i don't know if there are others.

i had even previously bit the bullet and endured a $300 investigation into the situation (number 1 and 2), and they "determined" i needed a new ABS module. they only see one or two a year! i didn't like to odds of it being the epicenter of my problems, but who knows.

if anyone possibly has endured this type of progressive and expanding issue, please step forward and be heard!

i now have to unplug my battery if i am parking anywhere for long. unendureable!
 

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I would start going over all your harnesses and look for signs of shorting out, check all the ground connections and mounting points for any signs of corrosion, probably need to go over all the bulkhead connections and examine the fuseboxes for issues.

There's always kerosene and a match....
 
rwh963 said:
I may need an electrical genius lol. if you have a couple of hours to spare, below are links to two threads discussing weird issues i have been experiencing.

Brake lights constantly on?

Weird throttle/acceleration hesitation

if you don't have two hours to spare, here is a very brief summary:

1) people notified me my brake lights are constantly on
2) VSC/TRAC/SLIPPERY CAR SYMBOL is always on
3) acceleration drop outs chronically occurring
4) door locks may be locking themselves
5) most recently, brake lights (all three) are remaining on AFTER the key is removed. they may spontaneously go off/back on, sometimes flicker if i slam doors, sometimes go out if i slam doors.
6) key-in-ignition chime may stay on even with key out of ignition

these are the most prominent symptoms. i don't know if there are others.

i had even previously bit the bullet and endured a $300 investigation into the situation (number 1 and 2), and they "determined" i needed a new ABS module. they only see one or two a year! i didn't like to odds of it being the epicenter of my problems, but who knows.

if anyone possibly has endured this type of progressive and expanding issue, please step forward and be heard!

i now have to unplug my battery if i am parking anywhere for long. unendureable!
Click to expand...

2)Without getting into much details the abs module is bound to happen sooner or later, no getting away from it as far as I know.

3)For the acceleration issue, are there codes besides the abs related? Start with a full tune up, (throttle body clean, spark plugs, air filter, even an oil change if its due)

4)Door lock themselves? can you elaborate on this? If you try to lock the doors does the driver unlock itself?

5)Brake lights always on, check the brake light switch just above the pedal from what you describe looks like your problem's there.

6)Not common on toyotas but a faulty ignition can replicate what you are experiencing with the doors.

hope you get it sorted out
 
miller507 said:
2)Without getting into much details the abs module is bound to happen sooner or later, no getting away from it as far as I know.

3)For the acceleration issue, are there codes besides the abs related? Start with a full tune up, (throttle body clean, spark plugs, air filter, even an oil change if its due)

4)Door lock themselves? can you elaborate on this? If you try to lock the doors does the driver unlock itself?

5)Brake lights always on, check the brake light switch just above the pedal from what you describe looks like your problem's there.

6)Not common on toyotas but a faulty ignition can replicate what you are experiencing with the doors.

hope you get it sorted out
Click to expand...


btw, one family owned v6 4wd sr5 w/230k miles.

to address your replies:

1) do you mean module, or wheel sensors? service tech told me they essentially never see abs module failure (different than the brake booster. this is the electronic unit on the booster). about a retail $2500 repair.

2) acceleration issue started AFTER visit to dealer. actually, it seemed to happen right after using cruise for the first time ever. air filter just replaced, new plugs at 200k, throttle body properly cleaned, oil new)

3) door locks: recently observed issue. as mentioned, noticed doors locked going back out to the car. once, locks closed while i was in the car with key in hand.

4) brake switch is recent. that was the first thing i checked. put in a new on, did nothing. returned it and used the one that was in it, which was replaced around 150k. all that was also checked during diagnosis.

5) 230k on original ignition switch: can that be causing all these issues? is that something to replace to see? is it DIY, need new keys, etc?

an independent suggested the body module, which i believe is on the backside of the dash fuse box.
 
could my troubles be a failing ignition switch? one definition:

The ignition switch is part of an assembly, or system, that includes the ignition lock cylinder. The entire mechanism is responsible for starting your car as well as providing power to specific areas of the vehicle, such as the electronic accessories, the ignition, and the engine.
 
new clue: went to u-haul to rent a trailer. hooked up for the light test. on trailer i wanted, no brake lights, one directional. suggested testing a second trailer. no brake lights, two directionals. my brake lights on all the time. no trailer for me :(
 
rwh963 said:
btw, one family owned v6 4wd sr5 w/230k miles.

to address your replies:

1) do you mean module, or wheel sensors? service tech told me they essentially never see abs module failure (different than the brake booster. this is the electronic unit on the booster). about a retail $2500 repair.

2) acceleration issue started AFTER visit to dealer. actually, it seemed to happen right after using cruise for the first time ever. air filter just replaced, new plugs at 200k, throttle body properly cleaned, oil new)

3) door locks: recently observed issue. as mentioned, noticed doors locked going back out to the car. once, locks closed while i was in the car with key in hand.

4) brake switch is recent. that was the first thing i checked. put in a new on, did nothing. returned it and used the one that was in it, which was replaced around 150k. all that was also checked during diagnosis.

5) 230k on original ignition switch: can that be causing all these issues? is that something to replace to see? is it DIY, need new keys, etc?

an independent suggested the body module, which i believe is on the backside of the dash fuse box.
Click to expand...

Those are some odd issues you got, to be honest none seem to be related.

1,4) Once the brake booster starts acting up its better to swap the whole thing, not really cost-efficient to interchange parts from one another.
Can't say the brake lights constantly on have something to do with the vsc/trac lights on the dash because I've dealt with quite my fair share of those PITA issues with the brake booster and none have cause the constant brake lights on.

2) I'd check plugs, coolant sensor may cause a weird hesitation when flooring it, never had a code light up.

3) any aftermarket alarms or addons?

5) Hard to tell its the culprit, never done one but it those look like a quick swap.
 
About your throttle situation, and I don’t know much about these systems so it’s just a suggestion for consideration, but could this be a fuel pump/fuel filter problem? I just replaced my fuel sending unit and did the fuel pump & filter as PM. The filter is a 2-part thing with the strainer that clips to the bottom of the assembly and filter media inside the fuel pump housing itself. I also have an ‘07 at 228K and while the strainer looked good, the media in the housing was black. Just a thought.

Also, re: your electrical issues, what’s the history of your truck? Are you certain it’s never been in a flood?
 
as noted, one family ownership. i know the full history. no flood.

certainly possible i am dealing with separate issues.

behavior examples: started car, VSC type light not on (they usually come right on). drove about a mile, stopped to get out to check to see if brake lights on, yes they were. so no dash light, brake lights on. drove a little more, then dash lights came on. at home, removed #3 10 amp fuse from under hood to shut brake lights off. after a while, put fuse back in. brake lights stayed off (for now). brake lights could stay on for hours, sometimes shut off spontaneously. its all over the place. brake lights on, if i slam a door, i can see it flicker, sometimes.

as for the dead zones in acceleration (or maintaining pace), sometimes i won't notice anything for hours, sometimes it is in/out regularly.

so, nothing seems consistent. these are chronic conditions, but there doesn't seem to be a predictable pattern.

if it was a bad coil, or plug, or clogged fuel filter, it should be consistently noticeable. i could replace all the plugs cheaply. but after that, i don't want to start throwing money at things blindly.
 
dealer had told me after diagnosis of ABS module that it could render ABS-type functions inoperable. today, i had to accelerate from stop up a hill in 2wd. the dash lights were not on. as i accelerated, i noticed the slippery symbol appear and heard/felt the clatter of the ABS. so, ABS system is functioning? maybe the dash lights on almost all the time don't have to do directly with the ABS module. brake booster is not making any noises.

and, during this whole year plus, i have never sen the brake, ABS, or CEL light come on.
 
The door slamming makes it sound to me like you have a bad wire or a wire shorting to ground. Tough to find of course but if you have a harness rubbing somewhere you could have a couple wires shorting out. Get the right one and you'll have some crazy issues. I'd suggest when the light is on to have someone watch it while you start wiggling various harnesses to see if one makes it go out.
 
unfortunately, that is what i'm thinking as well. slamming the door, causing a momentary vibration throughout the vehicle, could have an origin anywhere. and most wires are buried. i would start the search close to the drivers door. btw, are there any wires running under the drivers carpet?
 
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So far no one has mentioned checking your battery/charging system.

If it is on the low side it can wreak intermittent havoc with the ECMs in a vehicle.

Your battery voltage should be at least 12.6V engine off and at least 13.8V when engine running and alternator charging. If it measures OK with engine off turn on the headlights for a min or 2 and see if it stays at 12.6V. If it starts going down fast your batt could be going bad.

I've had all kinds of problems due to weak batteries or flakey alts on different vehicles thru the years.
 
fourwd1 said:
So far no one has mentioned checking your battery/charging system.

If it is on the low side it can wreak intermittent havoc with the ECMs in a vehicle.

Your battery voltage should be at least 12.6V engine off and at least 13.8V when engine running and alternator charging. If it measures OK with engine off turn on the headlights for a min or 2 and see if it stays at 12.6V. If it starts going down fast your batt could be going bad.

I've had all kinds of problems due to weak batteries or flakey alts on different vehicles thru the years.
Click to expand...
so, just checked battery with meter:

engine off: 12.17
engine on: 14.04
 
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