Sound Deadening Advice

[DreamsOfDirt]

After reading several threads on sound deadening I posted the below question, but it was a 4th gens thread and I only received one response. Reposting here to see if anyone with a 5th Gen has thoughts:

Question for those that have installed their own sound deadening:

What are the pros or cons of doing the install over several days/weeks in 2 hour blocks?

I'm planning on doing the doors and tailgate, potentially the rear panels in the cargo area. Not likely the roof or floor.

I'm weighing the cost of having a stereo shop do the install or doing it myself. It doesn't seem technically complex (although as this and the threads note, there are a few watch outs). The big downside of DIY seems to be time required to do the job.

This vehicle is my daily driver so, realistically I could work on it for two hours a night. Maybe I could eek out 3-4 hours on a weekend, but with kids it won't likely be more than that. I'm wondering if it's practical to approach it like this or if I'm going to end up taking off a door panel and being cramped for install time. Obviously, the 2 hr time isn't an absolute hard cut off, but that would be ideal.

Any insight or advice the group can give is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Original post/thread: http://http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/91953-sound-deadening-new-audio-setup-4.html
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[tigger]

Depends on what you are doing for sound reduction. Are you just installing CLD (like Dynomat) or are you going full out by adding closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl?

If you are just doing CLD, it pretty easy to do in sections. You get quicker as you go. I can do a full door from start to finish in under 30 minutes including cleaning.

The tailgate takes longer as you are working at weird angles and a larger surface.

The rear panels will depend on if you are willing to drive with a partially assembled vehicle. You could try doing a section then putting it back together, but I find it easier to tear out the whole thing, install the sound reduction then reinstall it all. The back could take you 4 to 8 hours or more.

Mine took about 2 weeks along with a stereo install. I did all 3 layers.
But i gutted the interior and did everything.

You can see some of the work here if interested Tiggers Install

 

[JSparky]

I lined the doors in my cruiser with Noico sound deadener. Taking the interior panels off is the hardest part. As an amateur, I’d probably not do it again. It’s not hard but is enough of a hassle where I’d just have an audio shop do it, if it’s within your budget. I’d probably save up and have some nicer speakers, amp, and equalizer put in at the same time.

I went that route with my last 5th gen and it was all done in a few hours. Stereo sound was hugely improved, even without a sub. Just find a good audio shop who won’t jack up your wiring with the install, plenty of good ones out there, but also lots of bad ones, so you gotta do your research. Just my experience.

 

[FamousAv8er]

Those of you who have used sound deadening on the roof (and other parts of the vehicle), how did that help to decrease on wind/road noise?

 

[Neauxla]

Depends on what you are doing for sound reduction. Are you just installing CLD (like Dynomat)

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I did this on my 4 doors and it's not hard at all. The hardest part is getting the door panel back on. Still need to add it to my rear hatch.

or are you going full out by adding closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl?

I tried doing this as well on one door but couldn't get the panel back on so I had to rip everything off. Also, the MLV was a pain to work with and keep on the door. I gave up and threw it all away.

 

[DreamsOfDirt]

Depends on what you are doing for sound reduction. Are you just installing CLD (like Dynomat) or are you going full out by adding closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl?

If you are just doing CLD, it pretty easy to do in sections. You get quicker as you go. I can do a full door from start to finish in under 30 minutes including cleaning.

The tailgate takes longer as you are working at weird angles and a larger surface.

The rear panels will depend on if you are willing to drive with a partially assembled vehicle. You could try doing a section then putting it back together, but I find it easier to tear out the whole thing, install the sound reduction then reinstall it all. The back could take you 4 to 8 hours or more.

Mine took about 2 weeks along with a stereo install. I did all 3 layers.
But i gutted the interior and did everything.

You can see some of the work here if interested Tiggers Install

Tigger - It seems like if I'm going to go to the trouble of doing the cargo area over the wheel wells, I might as well do the floor. From the pics on your thread it seems like the carpet would come up pretty easy once I had the side panels off. Am I missing anything?

Thanks!

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

Did mine top to bottom. Made a huge difference.

 

[rushrunner]

Don't take the wife or girlfriend = sound deadening.

 

[tigger]

Tigger - It seems like if I'm going to go to the trouble of doing the cargo area over the wheel wells, I might as well do the floor. From the pics on your thread it seems like the carpet would come up pretty easy once I had the side panels off. Am I missing anything?

Thanks!

There is very little else to remove to get the carpet out. Mainly just the bridge between the rear and back seat (2 row only, third row vehicles will be different)

 

[docsnavely]

Curious myself what the typical total weight is after a full job like this is done.

 

[Mindflex]

I did the entire floor and sides (not ceiling) from under the front seats all the way back.

Having the right tools, a ratchet set and pry tool is key. The hard part isn't putting in the sound deadening, its getting everything out of the car.

I highly recommend doing it all at once. Start with removing panels from the very back and work your way forward.

I put down both the dynamat equivalent and a sound barrier. The sound barrier was a little tricky because you have to cut it away in certain places to get everything back in place.

I also put a new sub and wired an amp while I was at it. I should have also ran a always on 12v but didn't.

If you remove the front seats or unplug them, unplug your battery.

I need to do the doors but that's it. The floor in the front already has factory sound deadening so limited benefits to adding more there.

I noticed a good amount of road noise reduction and better audio.




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[Mindflex]

Would add if you haven't done this before. Give yourself at least 6 full hours to take everything out of the car. Apply the sound deadening and then put everything back.

This is one of those things that once you do it you could don't faster the 2nd time, probably 4 hours.

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[2016 4Runner SR5]

This should take a lot more than 6 hours to do right. You need a hard plastic roller, you absolutely must use the roller to form the deadening material to the sheet metal panel. If you don't and there are voids between the material and metal, the whole thing is pointless. As for additional weight, about 250 pounds of material to do the whole truck top to bottom with a quality product.

 

[2016 4Runner SR5]

Ah and don't use crap from Home Depot, use materials made to be used in cars and designed to be used as a sound deadener.

 

[point1]

​

I know this is an older thread but 250 pounds of material carrying around. How much did your MPG drop? Was it worth it in the end? Contemplating on doing this but questioning how much this will improve sound.

Maybe as a compromise, I only do the doors?

 

[GX4SEVEND]

I guess I’ll give my input for what it’s worth......
I have about 2-300 pound of extras and 35’s before i did the sound deadener. I was getting 13.5 mpg so it’s not getting worse than that. I did two layers on each door and 2-3 layers on the rear hatch. Worth every penny and an afternoon installing it. Installed front focals and the power bass in the rear doors and hatch with a 10” JL sub.

Definitely less road noise and no rattling on the outside. With the windows up you don’t hear much at all outside the vehicle. The mpg on these isn’t impressive to begin with so I wouldn’t let that be a deciding factor.


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[Tonka23]

Also want to try at least doing all the doors but have never done this before and would be following a video. No problem taking my time but does anyone have any tips from those who have done it or have knowledge??

 

[85GT-79FJ40]

If you're only going to do one area I would do the doors. I've done this on several different cars and the doors always seems to make the biggest difference. Don't use home depot stuff. Get something made for automotive use that's actually sound deadener. Quick roof isn't that. On my 2011 I just did behind the speakers on the doors and tailgate. Probably a square foot in each door. Not a big difference just for good measure. We use lizard skin a lot for builds at work and I plan on that for my upcoming fox mustang build. That stuff really makes a big difference.

 

[point1]

I guess I’ll give my input for what it’s worth......
I have about 2-300 pound of extras and 35’s before i did the sound deadener. I was getting 13.5 mpg so it’s not getting worse than that. I did two layers on each door and 2-3 layers on the rear hatch. Worth every penny and an afternoon installing it. Installed front focals and the power bass in the rear doors and hatch with a 10” JL sub.

Definitely less road noise and no rattling on the outside. With the windows up you don’t hear much at all outside the vehicle. The mpg on these isn’t impressive to begin with so I wouldn’t let that be a deciding factor.


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Did you do the floors also??
Wondering if its worth thee hassle for the floors

 

[point1]

If you're only going to do one area I would do the doors. I've done this on several different cars and the doors always seems to make the biggest difference. Don't use home depot stuff. Get something made for automotive use that's actually sound deadener. Quick roof isn't that. On my 2011 I just did behind the speakers on the doors and tailgate. Probably a square foot in each door. Not a big difference just for good measure. We use lizard skin a lot for builds at work and I plan on that for my upcoming fox mustang build. That stuff really makes a big difference.

ok doors are the biggest impact. How about the floors? Floors seem to be the most work intensive.