Sound Deadening Advice
- Thread starter DreamsOfDirt
- Start date
Wanted to do this on my 4 runner, But thought I would test it out on my old F150. I did the floor and the doors with dynamat. the Doors made the biggest difference they sound a lot more solid. the floor not so much. what it did do was made the floor a little cooler as the truck is a utility style with just a vinyl floor. It took two days, I took my time. My wife was out of town so I had the whole garage to myself.
As stated above you will get better the more you do and the hard roller is a must (They usually come with the Kit).
Would I do this to my 4runner? Yes but just the doors. I think the floor has enough ribs to make it rigid. all I would do is add some light weight carpet mat under the existing carpet (don't have a third row seat). Also as others have stated if you add this to the rear hatch you may need to up grade your door shocks.
As stated above you will get better the more you do and the hard roller is a must (They usually come with the Kit).
Would I do this to my 4runner? Yes but just the doors. I think the floor has enough ribs to make it rigid. all I would do is add some light weight carpet mat under the existing carpet (don't have a third row seat). Also as others have stated if you add this to the rear hatch you may need to up grade your door shocks.
How to Install Second Skin Materials - Second Skin Audio
The reason people aren't getting good performance from the floor is because you are using a vibration damper, not a sound absorbing material.
Floor should be ~25% coverage with butyl / aluminum tiles, full coverage with mass-loaded vinyl, then a decoupling layer such as close cell foam to isolate vibrations from passing through the mass loaded vinyl.
covering with just dynamat is the same as using all butyl / aluminum tiles. You're having to put multiple layers because that's no the intent of that material.
This is something I put together from the old Sound Deadener Showdown. Don was one of the pioneers in the sound deadening for actual performance and not just slapping 5 layers of dynamat and calling it good.
Dropbox - Sound Deadener Showdown.docx - Simplify your life
The reason people aren't getting good performance from the floor is because you are using a vibration damper, not a sound absorbing material.
Floor should be ~25% coverage with butyl / aluminum tiles, full coverage with mass-loaded vinyl, then a decoupling layer such as close cell foam to isolate vibrations from passing through the mass loaded vinyl.
covering with just dynamat is the same as using all butyl / aluminum tiles. You're having to put multiple layers because that's no the intent of that material.
This is something I put together from the old Sound Deadener Showdown. Don was one of the pioneers in the sound deadening for actual performance and not just slapping 5 layers of dynamat and calling it good.
Dropbox - Sound Deadener Showdown.docx - Simplify your life
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So all 4 doors....anything else worth doing or is that the best juice for the squeeze?? Not looking for competition level but wouldn't mind putting in the extra time if its going to be worth it and only take another couple hours. Can you get away with doing just a portion of tailgate without having it be an issue weight wise?
DUBBZ_CEMENT_PRO
New member
Agreed 100%. Did this throughout my full interior. Dropped sound by 10 decibels.
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ads2539
New member
I have had a lot of free time this year thanks to covid19, but I can’t go several days without the use of my 4Runner, so I have been doing my sound deadening a few hours (or a full day) at a time. I did the passenger side doors one day, then the driver’s side doors the next day, then the rear hatch, then under the hood, then the roof, etc. For my situation, it is working well. I guess I would put myself in the audiophile category (entire JBL system long gone), so I’m sound deadening everywhere I can. I still have to do the floors, the rear cargo area and the firewall.
Are you doing full 3 step process or just putting down SDM?? What did you go with?
How has it gone so far?? Was looking for MLV but am scared I will not be able to fit the door back on if doing so. Any issues so far with getting the door back on with the 2 layers??
***EDIT***
Have read a couple threads about moisture issues long term. Being in FL am I missing anything by just doing the SDM and MLV?? Any issues to be aware of???
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ads2539
New member
I was able to get all four of my doors put back together with no issues, but I did avoid putting insulation on the high spots on the doors. I left all the factory “padding” on the door cards. The only issue I ever have when working on my 4R is having bolts and fasteners left over after I’m done putting everything back together.
I don’t know anything about dealing with the moisture/humidity issues of sound insulation/deadening. It gets humid in Chicago, but nothing like Florida. The closed-cell foam I used is allegedly waterproof, and I assume the sound deadener is too. I can’t see how it would attract/retain water at all.
I don’t know anything about dealing with the moisture/humidity issues of sound insulation/deadening. It gets humid in Chicago, but nothing like Florida. The closed-cell foam I used is allegedly waterproof, and I assume the sound deadener is too. I can’t see how it would attract/retain water at all.
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point1
New member
How to Install Second Skin Materials - Second Skin Audio
I was looking through the steps and seems fairly straight forward for the doors. My concern however is that the materials look pretty thick when layered and that putting back the door panels might be a challenge??
Car Door Insulation Kits for Your Vehicle - Second Skin Audio
this is what I am looking at (4 door kit) and using luxury liner pro.
Factory padding?? I guess I will find out once I take off the doors.
Anyone have any experience with this stuff??
Amazon.com: Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro - Mass Loaded Vinyl Soundproofing for Cars, MLV Sound Barrier with Closed Cell Foam (1 Sheet): Automotive
Anyone have any experience with this stuff??
Amazon.com: Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro - Mass Loaded Vinyl Soundproofing for Cars, MLV Sound Barrier with Closed Cell Foam (1 Sheet): Automotive
What products did you use for this?? Curious as the only reason I shy away is every video I see or at least most only have 2 layers. That site was very informative but for the doors (sounds like the biggest impact) I am afraid that it will be too thick, creating issues with putting the door on/ windows working normal/ layer falling off inside the door.
I will take my time and am in no rush but it will be the first time taking a crack at this so just want to keep things as simple as possible
I came across this on a VW site that I am on, restored a 72 for my wife, and did the whole car, front to back for less than $100. I had a buddy come over who owns a car audio shop, and he was blown away at how much it is exactly like dynomat and the other name brand deadeners. $16 a roll, 6" wide and 50' long. Can't go wrong. I ended up doing my 4runner doors with it, I was able to do all 4 doors with 1.5 rolls. I havent done the lift gate yet, but thinking I have enough to do with. It works....
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Read through the dropbox link. I just took the Sound Deadener Showdown | Your Vehicle Quiet website and made it a word document. you won't find their products anywhere now, but you can find essentially exact replacements from companies like second skin. the document (or website) will guide you through what needs to be used where
I just spoke with an audio shop and they told me 90 percent of the noise will be coming through the doors, so I decided to only do the doors
I know this is an old thread and there is a lot of information out there on it. I have seen a few posts about not applying it to the outside wall of the sheet metal, on the inside of the door, due to possibly inviting rust from trapping condensation etc. Seems like most people using it do apply it there. Has anyone out there experienced a rusted door or any discoloration to the door in the area where the deadening material has been applied? I would like to do this but am paranoid after dealing with my 4th generation rust problems, prior to getting my 5th gen. Thanks for any insight
