Spacer lift on top of suspension lift

Rushingman

New member
Don't know if I didn't search the right thing, or if it hasn't been asked yet.
But is is possible to add a spacer lift on top of a suspension lift?
I have a toytec boss lift on my 07 4Runner v8 4wd. With 35s
 
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Yes. Front I would do the top mount type and the rear just a spring spacer. Like the Daystar kit.

Depends on how much lift you are talking though.
 
I currently have 4 inches total


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At 4" total then no - can do the FJ 6" lift with drop bracket if you want or add a Roger Brown aka 4Crawler bodylift - I have ran 2 of this bodylifts in the past and swear by him, responds to emails and is a great guy, been a part of the forums and communities since before they were big, we were buddies back on TrailTalk aka 4x4wire back in the late 90's:) He does 1, 1.5, 2" standard or he can build you what you want - I know a couple run up to 2.5" bodylifts on here...
 
Even with diff drop and upper control arms you will have binding on your cv's like crazy at 4" of suspension and then adding more honestly at 4" of suspension your pushing it past the "safe level". If you want more lift will need a full drop bracket lift or to add body lift:)

Otherwise blown cv's constantly, ball joints ate up constantly and good luck with alignment. If your 2wd different story but then you would want a knuckle lift to go higher.
 
Even with diff drop and upper control arms you will have binding on your cv's like crazy at 4" of suspension and then adding more honestly at 4" of suspension your pushing it past the "safe level". If you want more lift will need a full drop bracket lift or to add body lift:)



Otherwise blown cv's constantly, ball joints ate up constantly and good luck with alignment. If your 2wd different story but then you would want a knuckle lift to go higher.



I only have a 3 inch suspension, but then a 1" body.


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As having fun hit the nail on the head with the first response I'll just expand on it. A spacer lift doesn't change the stroke of your shock (full compressed to full droop) it just moves it down further in relation to the frame meaning that your arms/CV's are at a greater angle when you're at the same position of stroke. This is fine and dandy at full compression but at full droop somewhere just over 3" you'll start to bind CV shafts. You can try it by installing your top hat spacer with both front wheels off the ground, can you spin the wheels without getting a CV clunk? It varies vehicle to vehicle, I couldn't run anything over 3" without bind on mine with the down travel of 5100's so that's where I topped out, others do seem to run 4" suspension "no problem".
 
As having fun hit the nail on the head with the first response I'll just expand on it. A spacer lift doesn't change the stroke of your shock (full compressed to full droop) it just moves it down further in relation to the frame meaning that your arms/CV's are at a greater angle when you're at the same position of stroke. This is fine and dandy at full compression but at full droop somewhere just over 3" you'll start to bind CV shafts. You can try it by installing your top hat spacer with both front wheels off the ground, can you spin the wheels without getting a CV clunk? It varies vehicle to vehicle, I couldn't run anything over 3" without bind on mine with the down travel of 5100's so that's where I topped out, others do seem to run 4" suspension "no problem".

What he said. When I put on my tophat spacer lift, the first try it came out to 3.25 inches and the CV's were locked up at full droop. I pulled it apart, trimmed 3/8" off the spacer with the bandsaw to drop the lift back to about 2.5inches, and all is good now.

Definitely check the CV's for binding at full droop before you head out offroad. Otherwise you stand a good chance of snapping a CV the first time you lift a wheel.
 
You could also run into compression issues too. A top spacer on a shock will lower the travel range down which will make the shock bottom out sooner. If the shock bottoms out before the arm hits the rubber bump stop, you'll have a blown or a bent shock in no time.
 
You could also run into compression issues too. A top spacer on a shock will lower the travel range down which will make the shock bottom out sooner. If the shock bottoms out before the arm hits the rubber bump stop, you'll have a blown or a bent shock in no time.
An often over looked point in regards to spacer lifts.
 

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