Spc upper control arms

[kammando808]

Sup everyone just wondering how many of you have experience with these uca and what's your pros and cons on them? I've recently got these as a gift and want to know your inputs on them, also if it's a difficult task to get them on. I found a video on YouTube on how to but I figured I'd ask and see if any of you have some tips on getting them installed,



MAHALO "thank you" lol

Brandon

 

[ARC]

Had them on my 2011 tacoma. Install is straight forward and will correct any alignment issues you might have. By far the most adjustable UCA I know of. Performance will be very similar to stock and will allow stock geometry in lifted trucks.

One thing I found to be very helpful is to take the alignment instructions sheet with me and give it to the tech when you get it aligned. Encourage them to read it and it will be a breeze. Some want to be stubborn and assume they know how to do it and will struggle until they read the instructions.

 

[ARC]

As far as cons they will not allow for big gains in wheel travel like a uniball or similar UCA. If you plan to run them with stock length shocks I think you will be happy.

 

[kammando808]

As far as cons they will not allow for big gains in wheel travel like a uniball or similar UCA. If you plan to run them with stock length shocks I think you will be happy.

Thanks for the respond, I ask for tips because of the tools that I have is kinda limited as I have no press whatsoever , I'm planning on using the methods from Tacoma Suspension - Control Arms , I'm sure I can tackle the job myself , hopefully I can make a trip to my local auto store this weekend and get the tools, soo we'll see how it goes!

 

[eatmorechickenx]

I believe they are the exact same as the light racing arms.

 

[toyoKühl]

what is the P/N, price and where did you order from?

 

[AZ_Trails]

I got my Light Racing (SPC) UCAs from Fat Bob's Garage. I think it was around $390 shipped.

 

[ARC]

Thanks for the respond, I ask for tips because of the tools that I have is kinda limited as I have no press whatsoever , I'm planning on using the methods from Tacoma Suspension - Control Arms , I'm sure I can tackle the job myself , hopefully I can make a trip to my local auto store this weekend and get the tools, soo we'll see how it goes!

I could be wrong but glancing at the write up you linked I think they are over complicating things. When I did my install I did not remove the lower arms at all. I'm not sure why you would. The only special tool you should need is a ball joint separator. I borrowed one from O'rielly in Mililani for free. I would follow the instal instructions provided by light racing/SPC.

 

[ARC]

This video makes it really simple, but keep in mind it would be for a 4th gen so there will be some variance.

25470 -25480- 25490 -Toyota Tacoma/Tundra Adjustable Upper Control Arms - Specialty Products Company - YouTube

 

[Menace Kustoms]

They do allow more wheel travel than stock with lifted suspension. The balljoints are immensely better than stock and allow that travel. I love mine.

 

[kammando808]

I could be wrong but glancing at the write up you linked I think they are over complicating things. When I did my install I did not remove the lower arms at all. I'm not sure why you would. The only special tool you should need is a ball joint separator. I borrowed one from O'rielly in Mililani for free. I would follow the instal instructions provided by light racing/SPC.

Yah I don't need to replace anything on my lca, I just found that link for some instructions on doing the ball joints

 

[kammando808]

Being that I don't have the tools you guys think this could get the job done? Or should I look for a more sturdy gear puller? Btw I found the link http://youtu.be/VumGrEOYSOc

TEKTON 5696 Gear Puller Set, 3-Piece
Amazon.com: TEKTON 5696 Gear Puller Set, 3-Piece: Home Improvement
Lisle 41970 Heavy Duty Pitman Arm Puller for Ford
Amazon.com: Lisle 41970 Heavy Duty Pitman Arm Puller for Ford: Automotive

 

[TCMach]

They do allow more wheel travel than stock with lifted suspension. The balljoints are immensely better than stock and allow that travel. I love mine.

x2. I have much more droop than I had before. Possibly more compression because I can put my tire into the top of my fender very easily haha.


Honestly the install is very simple. It will make alot more sense once you are looking at it and have all the parts. I used a 3jaw puller to remove the old balljoint and press in the new adapter. worked like a charm. I also used a socket (one that fit the balljoint cup, and a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter to center the rod in the socket as it was biting into the socket before and the adapter stopped that. Oh and my best piece of advice is to take off the old balljoint snap rings before you try and press the balljoint out...

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/102663750@N03/12278163125" title="IMG_4500 by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7339/12278163125_8650df2126_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_4500"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/102663750@N03/12278163795" title="IMG_4499 by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3775/12278163795_11c9e19d2d_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_4499"></a>

 

[ARC]

x2. I have much more droop than I had before. Possibly more compression because I can put my tire into the top of my fender very easily haha.


Honestly the install is very simple. It will make alot more sense once you are looking at it and have all the parts. I used a 3jaw puller to remove the old balljoint and press in the new adapter. worked like a charm. I also used a socket (one that fit the balljoint cup, and a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter to center the rod in the socket as it was biting into the socket before and the adapter stopped that. Oh and my best piece of advice is to take off the old balljoint snap rings before you try and press the balljoint out...

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/102663750@N03/12278163125" title="IMG_4500 by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7339/12278163125_8650df2126_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_4500"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/102663750@N03/12278163795" title="IMG_4499 by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3775/12278163795_11c9e19d2d_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_4499"></a>

The ball joints do allow for more travel than stock but do not expect them to be a "mid travel" arm like a Total chaos etc.

I used a pickle fork style tool to remove mine. It was very easy and they only cost like $10.

 

[TCMach]

The ball joints do allow for more travel than stock but do not expect them to be a "mid travel" arm like a Total chaos etc.

I used a pickle fork style tool to remove mine. It was very easy and they only cost like $10.

Oh yea they aren't uniballs or anything. But there is travel to be gained.

Really? I feel like there would be no way I could've gotten the balljoint out of the spindle with a pickle. Maybe it's the rust bond haha. FWIW I rented my tools from oreillys so it didn't cost me anything in the end. Can't bring myself to by tools I can rent even though buying one would probably be smarter in the long run haha

 

[ARC]

Oh yea they aren't uniballs or anything. But there is travel to be gained.

Really? I feel like there would be no way I could've gotten the balljoint out of the spindle with a pickle. Maybe it's the rust bond haha. FWIW I rented my tools from oreillys so it didn't cost me anything in the end. Can't bring myself to by tools I can rent even though buying one would probably be smarter in the long run haha

Probably rust had something to do with it. I did my install with less than 10k on the clock so wasn't an issue for me.

 

[kammando808]

I'm glad mines aren't rusted, I've actually got my passenger ball joint replaced not even a year ago, with that it shouldn't be too much of a problem removing, it just sucks because this is my only daily driver and having the time to get it done is crap. I already have a pickle fork and pitman arm puller, now I just have to get a 3 jaw puller.

 

[NateMob]

The ball joints do allow for more travel than stock but do not expect them to be a "mid travel" arm like a Total chaos etc.

I've run SPC UCAs as well as the Icon Uniball setup that I currently have. I don't think anyone here has run both styles other than myself so I'll tell my first hand experience.

SPC UCAs DO NOT LIMIT TRAVEL IN ANY FORM .

Not even on a "mid-travel" setup. Your up travel is still limited by the bumpstops there on the LCA, and your droop(down travel) WILL be limited by your coilover being fully extended and bottoming out. .

Not sure where random people get the notion that they do, usually the same people that think the SPC arms are using the factory upper ball joint.

 

[BrandonF]

I've run SPC UCAs as well as the Icon Uniball setup that I currently have. I don't think anyone here has run both styles other than myself so I'll tell my first hand experience.

SPC UCAs DO NOT LIMIT TRAVEL IN ANY FORM .

Not even on a "mid-travel" setup. Your up travel is still limited by the bumpstops there on the LCA, and your droop(down travel) WILL be limited by your coilover being fully extended and bottoming out. .

Not sure where random people get the notion that they do, usually the same people that think the SPC arms are using the factory upper ball joint.

Quoting a very old post here, but is there a reason you USED to be running the SPC's and are now running the icons?
I'm about to get the SPC's. I like their adjustability. My plan is to pull my front cams all the way in and push my rear cams all the way out to gain some extra firewall clearance. Then, take advantage of their wide adjustability to get my alignment where I want it. As far I'm concerned, this is only possible with UCA's that offer extra camber adjustment in addition to caster adjustment.

 

[NateMob]

Quoting a very old post here, but is there a reason you USED to be running the SPC's and are now running the icons?
I'm about to get the SPC's. I like their adjustability. My plan is to pull my front cams all the way in and push my rear cams all the way out to gain some extra firewall clearance. Then, take advantage of their wide adjustability to get my alignment where I want it. As far I'm concerned, this is only possible with UCA's that offer extra camber adjustment in addition to caster adjustment.

I got rid of my SPCs because after less than 15k miles both sides ball joints were shot and the bushings had ripped apart. At that point i returned them for the defective bushings and sold the brand new set they exchanged them for. I have no regrets at all stepping up to the Icon UCAs, I had to semi-tub my firewall anyway for the 34s so the caster adjustment was a mute point for me. My alignment guy got my frontend within spec with the Icons.