Spc upper control arms

[BrandonF]

I got rid of my SPCs because after less than 15k miles both sides ball joints were shot and the bushings had ripped apart. At that point i returned them for the defective bushings and sold the brand new set they exchanged them for. I have no regrets at all stepping up to the Icon UCAs, I had to semi-tub my firewall anyway for the 34s so the caster adjustment was a mute point for me. My alignment guy got my frontend within spec with the Icons.

Thanks for the reply. Would you happen to know if this issue has been resolved since then or if I should avoid the SPC UCA's altogether?

 

[curtperry]

Thanks for the reply. Would you happen to know if this issue has been resolved since then or if I should avoid the SPC UCA's altogether?

Seems like it's been resolved... See here

 

[sn0wrunner]

Thanks for the reply. Would you happen to know if this issue has been resolved since then or if I should avoid the SPC UCA's altogether?

Yeah they changed the bushing design a couple years ago. The SPC arms are great. Uniball style is definitely stronger. Nathan hit the nail on the head though, the travel is limited by the bump stops and length of the shocks. Not so much the control arms.

Also, the 2nd gen tacoma install is a bit easier, you don't have to press the adapter piece into the spindle after removing the ball joint like you do with our 3rd gen 4runners.

 

[K-Tanz]

x2. I have much more droop than I had before. Possibly more compression because I can put my tire into the top of my fender very easily haha.


Honestly the install is very simple. It will make alot more sense once you are looking at it and have all the parts. I used a 3jaw puller to remove the old balljoint and press in the new adapter. worked like a charm. I also used a socket (one that fit the balljoint cup, and a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter to center the rod in the socket as it was biting into the socket before and the adapter stopped that. Oh and my best piece of advice is to take off the old balljoint snap rings before you try and press the balljoint out...

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/102663750@N03/12278163125" title="IMG_4500 by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7339/12278163125_8650df2126_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_4500"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/102663750@N03/12278163795" title="IMG_4499 by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3775/12278163795_11c9e19d2d_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_4499"></a>

I know I'm resurrecting an old post here but I thought it better than starting a new thread. I am having a hell of a time pressing the ball joint out of the spindle and am almost to the point of pulling the spindle. I've got the 3 arm press and a ball joint press, I've used MAP gas, no dice. I don't see a snap ring anywhere and I'm concerned I'm missing it and that is causing my problems. Do you have a good photo of the snap ring? The previous owner out on Moog ubj's and I'm thinking maybe the moogs just don't have a snap ring?

 

[K-Tanz]

Scratch that. Turns out there is a clip holding the (remnants of) the boot in place that was covering the actual C clip . Fingers crossed I don't have to pull the spindle...

 

[TCMach]

Scratch that. Turns out there is a clip holding the (remnants of) the boot in place that was covering the actual C clip . Fingers crossed I don't have to pull the spindle...

Just saw your question sorry. Did you end up getting it out? The C-clip is a pain in the ass to find, even harder to get out once you've put 5 or 10 turns of a 3 jaw puller into compressing it between the joint and the spindle

 

[K-Tanz]

It did finally come out but it was an absolute bear. The 3 jaw puller was like a funny joke the ball joint spit out. I ended up with a ball joint press and 4wd ball joint adaptor from O'Reilly that ended up doing the trick. When I get to a real computer I'll post a photo for others cause I had kind of an elaborate setup with tow strap holding the spindle in place. The key was prying off all of the boot and finding that damn clip. Thanks for then reply though! Your clip suggestion saved me.

 

[K-Tanz]

I don't recommend the 3 jaw puller. There isn't a ton of material for the jaws to grab and mine kept slipping off the spindle. In this photo you can see the bit of boot left. Under this bit of boot THERE IS A RETAINING CLIP. It is made of hardened steel and if it isn't removed you may as well beat your head against a wall.

Instead I got a Ball Joint Press and "4wd Ball Joint Press Adaptor" from O'Reilly. The spindle makes it hard to get clearance but it can be done. In order to get it on I took a 4 1/2 inch cutoff wheel and cut the ball joint as close to the ball as possible so it is flush. Beware if you do this you have reached the point of no return. If you can't get the ball joint out you will now have to remove the spindle assembly as the vehicle is inoperable. I was to this point myself and even bought an impact gun to remove the 35 mil nut holding the hub on.

In order to get leverage on the spindle that is now flopping around because the ball joint is disconnected I secured it towards the front and rear of the vehicle with ratchet straps. I utilized a 36 inch breaker bar (Jack handle) to get leverage on the press.

This was a big ordeal and honestly more involved than I thought. Persistence paid off though and the spindles were able to remain attached to the vehicle.

 

[atalarico]

Just curious how everyone's SPC UCA's are holding up these days. I'm going to be in the market sooner or later, and after some research it sounds like I'm going to avoid a uniball design, and SPC seems to be the best ball joint style.

 

[JayRolla]

Just curious how everyone's SPC UCA's are holding up these days. I'm going to be in the market sooner or later, and after some research it sounds like I'm going to avoid a uniball design, and SPC seems to be the best ball joint style.

SPC is the only ball joint option. I had a ball joint loosen up in about a years time. Not happy with that. I installed new UBJ's and they have since been redesigned. Stronger wear spring to keep it tight even when worn and they now have grease zerks. Hoping they last this time. But so far not happy with them.

 

[atalarico]

SPC is the only ball joint option. I had a ball joint loosen up in about a years time. Not happy with that. I installed new UBJ's and they have since been redesigned. Stronger wear spring to keep it tight even when worn and they now have grease zerks. Hoping they last this time. But so far not happy with them.

Dang, that's too bad. Thanks for the insight! Maybe by the time I'm ready to actually pull the trigger on these they their design will be a bit more long lasting. I'm avoiding the uniball ones since I live in a climate with corrosive de-icing chemicals, sand, rocks, etc, and I'd rather not service them every year.

 

[JayRolla]

Dang, that's too bad. Thanks for the insight! Maybe by the time I'm ready to actually pull the trigger on these they their design will be a bit more long lasting. I'm avoiding the uniball ones since I live in a climate with corrosive de-icing chemicals, sand, rocks, etc, and I'd rather not service them every year.

I live down the road if you still in Denver. My brother runs uniballs. They can start to squeak if you dont keep them greased. Its real easy and you do it every oil change. Just have to hit them with some of this Super Lube Grease | Polyurethane Bushing Grease | Chassis Grease | 902

 

[atalarico]

I live down the road if you still in Denver. My brother runs uniballs. They can start to squeak if you dont keep them greased. Its real easy and you do it every oil change. Just have to hit them with some of this Super Lube Grease | Polyurethane Bushing Grease | Chassis Grease | 902

Ugh...my memory is the ****ing worst. I'm sorry. I keep forgetting that.

Annnnnyway, so, it sounds like with regular maintenance the uniballs do well here? Huh. I was reading people had to replace them once a year due to corrosion and dirt and what not, even with those top-caps. How long has he had them?

 

[JayRolla]

Ugh...my memory is the ****ing worst. I'm sorry. I keep forgetting that.

Annnnnyway, so, it sounds like with regular maintenance the uniballs do well here? Huh. I was reading people had to replace them once a year due to corrosion and dirt and what not, even with those top-caps. How long has he had them?

Not to long really. I thought those issues where when people let them dry up. Well either way in my case SPC's need new ball joints every year also. I hope his dont start corroding that quick.

 

[OU4x4]

i'm going on one year with the spcs and so far so good.
the boot has held up well and getting back to factory spec on alignment has help my tires

 

[Kotrin]

My 2 cents

I had a set of SPC's in my Tacoma and my 5th Gen 4Runner. They were the newer style and had each for over a year and 20k miles on both rigs. Never experienced the issues you guys talk about. I've read a lot about this before and during my purchase and almost made me go to Total Chaos but decided not to. Should I have switched, it's hard to say.

It seemed from what I kept reading and talking to people who live in my area didn't seem to have the problems that were continuously being described. I do know that I would have preferred to go Icon, but its was almost twice the price to get a setup and I couldn't personally afford it at the time. If I had to purchase a new upper control arm I wouldn't hesitate to buy a SPC.

I do know that I'm saving for when my Toytec goes *cough* bad *cough* to get a Icon setup for better on my body and ride. My ride is nice, but research is proving Icon would be the smoothest route to go...come on lottery! (doesn't play it but could hope a family member would win!)

 

[Scramble]

Ugh...my memory is the ****ing worst. I'm sorry. I keep forgetting that.

Annnnnyway, so, it sounds like with regular maintenance the uniballs do well here? Huh. I was reading people had to replace them once a year due to corrosion and dirt and what not, even with those top-caps. How long has he had them?

I hit the All-Pro uniballs with teflon lube spray every few weeks, no big deal, they're right there out in the open. I've had mine for a year & I'm not replacing them anytime soon. I wouldn't have bought them if I had to replace them once a year, I'm not that much of a mechanic.

 

[fourfive]

Just curious how everyone's SPC UCA's are holding up these days. I'm going to be in the market sooner or later, and after some research it sounds like I'm going to avoid a uniball design, and SPC seems to be the best ball joint style.

My spc ucas have been on for a little less than 2 years and i havent had any issues with them. I prefer spc bc of the adjustability which is also why i prefer having threaded coilovers instead of the notched bilsteins.

As long as i have a competent alignment tech, the spc allows me to get my alignment within factory specs. I put 315s on about a year ago and was able to adjust my uca to avoid rubbing the rear front wheel well with daily driving. I gave up a little caster to do that but havent noticed much difference with the drive quality with the decreased caster. The few times i had to contact SPC their customer service has always been great.

 

[atalarico]

Good responses, all. I might still go with the SPCs if they're holding up well for people, but I'm glad to hear uniballs don't fall apart as easily as I've been lead to believe. Whoooo knows what I'll do in a couple months! [emoji3]

 

[November Sun]

I just bough the SPC UCAs and Toytec Boss kit. Plan to start the install one night this week. Got the parts last night, quality looks great but i'm a little intimidated by the install. Guess I need to rent some tools.Wish me luck.