Spc upper control arms

[November Sun]

I just bough the SPC UCAs and Toytec Boss kit. Plan to start the install one night this week. Got the parts last night, quality looks great but i'm a little intimidated by the install. Guess I need to rent some tools.Wish me luck.

Anyone know a trick to get the snap ring retainers in. I'm stuck, regular snap ring pliers aren't cutting it. I'd start a new thread but I haven't been around here long enough yet.

 

[nc-grayson]

Not to long really. I thought those issues where when people let them dry up. Well either way in my case SPC's need new ball joints every year also. I hope his dont start corroding that quick.

SPC is the only ball joint option. I had a ball joint loosen up in about a years time. Not happy with that. I installed new UBJ's and they have since been redesigned. Stronger wear spring to keep it tight even when worn and they now have grease zerks. Hoping they last this time. But so far not happy with them.

Any updates or input on this [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION]? I think I've read every UCA thread there is and I still cant decide on Icon's w/ the Uniball or SPC w/ the balljoint.

I'm not worried about the uniball's in the climate I live in....I can clean and lube regularly that's not the problem. My dilemma is the long term cost of the cheaper SPC's while replacing the ball joint annually, vs. the more expensive Icon's that just require a bit more maintenance.

Not to mention the more UCA threads I read the more contradictions I find. I'm 90% hwy DD and 10% mild offroading. I've read that uniball's aren't recommended for mostly street driving, and read other threads where folks say it's just fine.

Looking forward to your $0.02

 

[JayRolla]

Any updates or input on this [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION]? I think I've read every UCA thread there is and I still cant decide on Icon's w/ the Uniball or SPC w/ the balljoint.

I'm not worried about the uniball's in the climate I live in....I can clean and lube regularly that's not the problem. My dilemma is the long term cost of the cheaper SPC's while replacing the ball joint annually, vs. the more expensive Icon's that just require a bit more maintenance.

Not to mention the more UCA threads I read the more contradictions I find. I'm 90% hwy DD and 10% mild offroading. I've read that uniball's aren't recommended for mostly street driving, and read other threads where folks say it's just fine.

Looking forward to your $0.02

My brother has Icons on his 4th gen. I recommended them to match his Icon lift. He has to lube these things up every week even keeping them dry and on pavement. Any type of dirt, rain, snow he is cleaning and lubing them. They make awful bad sounds all the time and he was a little upset with me recommending Icons.

His Icons also gave him back 2* caster but also pushed the tire into the firewall causing more rubbing issues than if on stock control arms.

My SPC's after replacing ball joints are holding up well. They are a new and improved ball joint design with grease zerks for maintenance. They also have a newly designed spring to help keep them tight even after they wear.

What I love about the SPC's is you can fine tune them. I was having major rub issues at the pinch weld after installing them till I figured out they need to be pushed all the way forward. THis puts them in stock location. You lose caster but with good alignment you can still get 2* caster. I have zero pinchweld rub with 33's and people with 35's even clear the pinchweld without modifying it.

 

[nc-grayson]

My brother has Icons on his 4th gen. I recommended them to match his Icon lift. He has to lube these things up every week even keeping them dry and on pavement. Any type of dirt, rain, snow he is cleaning and lubing them. They make awful bad sounds all the time and he was a little upset with me recommending Icons.

His Icons also gave him back 2* caster but also pushed the tire into the firewall causing more rubbing issues than if on stock control arms.

My SPC's after replacing ball joints are holding up well. They are a new and improved ball joint design with grease zerks for maintenance. They also have a newly designed spring to help keep them tight even after they wear.

What I love about the SPC's is you can fine tune them. I was having major rub issues at the pinch weld after installing them till I figured out they need to be pushed all the way forward. THis puts them in stock location. You lose caster but with good alignment you can still get 2* caster. I have zero pinchweld rub with 33's and people with 35's even clear the pinchweld without modifying it.

Thanks [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION], I appreciate your speedy response. This is exactly what I was looking for. I originally *wanted* the icon's because I figured they'd pair up better with the front Icon 2.5s, but now I think most signs are pointing towards SPC being the better option for me.

To throw a wrench into the equation, with the *current* prices of SPC UCA's, they're not really that attractive.

For example I can get complete Icon stage 2 including Icon UCA's for around $2100. Or get stage 1 (exact same as stage 2 minus UCAs) plus the addition of SPC arms for around $1900.

Current pricing of the SPC arms on Amazon is literally at the highest it's ever been in 2 years of being sold on Amazon - $507. Individually the Icon's are about $715.

 

[JayRolla]

Thanks [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION], I appreciate your speedy response. This is exactly what I was looking for. I originally *wanted* the icon's because I figured they'd pair up better with the front Icon 2.5s, but now I think most signs are pointing towards SPC being the better option for me.

To throw a wrench into the equation, with the *current* prices of SPC UCA's, they're not really that attractive.

For example I can get complete Icon stage 2 including Icon UCA's for around $2100. Or get stage 1 (exact same as stage 2 minus UCAs) plus the addition of SPC arms for around $1900.

Current pricing of the SPC arms on Amazon is literally at the highest it's ever been in 2 years of being sold on Amazon - $507. Individually the Icon's are about $715.

Yeah I went SPC because I got them at the low time low. $370 at my door.

My brother kind of wishes he went SPC but he does like the sexy factor of his ICONs.

These help with keeping them clean. But issue is you have to remove them when they need lubed and they are taped on.
ICON Tubular UCA Uniball Cover Cap Kit

 

[nc-grayson]

Yeah I went SPC because I got them at the low time low. $370 at my door.

My brother kind of wishes he went SPC but he does like the sexy factor of his ICONs.

These help with keeping them clean. But issue is you have to remove them when they need lubed and they are taped on.
ICON Tubular UCA Uniball Cover Cap Kit

Thanks again!!!

 

[fourfive]

My SPC's after replacing ball joints are holding up well. They are a new and improved ball joint design with grease zerks for maintenance. They also have a newly designed spring to help keep them tight even after they wear.

I didnt know this, thanks for the info. Im still on my original ball joints that seem to be doing fine with about 25k but good info for when it's time to replace them.

 

[Clayton74]

Resurrecting I know, but I'm not really seeing my question answered anywhere. Question is this, I can tell the uniball designed UCAs have a much narrower profile. The SPCs look wider like almost close to the stock profile. Right now, I'm rubbing on the front and rear of my stock UCA when I'm turning. I'm not so worried about correcting alignment issues (I'm 90% offroad) but I do need to make sure they have added clearance from stock so I'm not rubbing on them when I turn. Can anyone that's had a set in their hands comment?

Thank you!

 

[OU4x4]

i'm running 285s and easily clear the arms without my spacers on.

 

[JayRolla]

My 285's rubbed quite a bit but clear the SPCs with a lot of space. I also ran some 305s and no issues. They have a lot more clearance than stock, pretty much the same as uniball setups.

 

[Clayton74]

Thanks for the speedy feedback. My 35x12.5's are leaving my stock control arms polished to a mirror finish

 

[JayRolla]

Thanks for the speedy feedback. My 35x12.5's are leaving my stock control arms polished to a mirror finish

Those SPC's will help you clear that firewall also if needed.

 

[rkntoy]

I gained a bit over .25"

 

[Clayton74]

Those SPC's will help you clear that firewall also if needed.

I think my hammer already got that squared away Guess I'm off to order some SPCs

 

[HiluxSurf SSR-G]

Hi,

How can you tell if the SPC UBJ has loosened up? I still have the old no-zerk option but haven't checked the UBJ.

Thanks.

SPC is the only ball joint option. I had a ball joint loosen up in about a years time. Not happy with that. I installed new UBJ's and they have since been redesigned. Stronger wear spring to keep it tight even when worn and they now have grease zerks. Hoping they last this time. But so far not happy with them.

 

[JayRolla]

Hi,

How can you tell if the SPC UBJ has loosened up? I still have the old no-zerk option but haven't checked the UBJ.

Thanks.

I could literally just rock the joint back and forth and see/feel it was loose. Even the alignment tech could show me the movement just grabbing it. Usually a crow bar is needed to find the movement.

 

[HiluxSurf SSR-G]

Are the SPC UCAs and UBJs still US-made? Bought mine in 2015 and the box said it was Made in the USA

 

[ShaunStiffler]

My 285's rubbed quite a bit but clear the SPCs with a lot of space. I also ran some 305s and no issues. They have a lot more clearance than stock, pretty much the same as uniball setups.

Hey guys, I'm about to dive into some mods and was looking for a little advice. Going with Bilstein 6112/5100 and SAW 1.5". Front may be set as high as 2.5. I plan on following the lift with some new shoes. Leaning towards something in the 255/80/17 range since i think that will better suit my driving (mostly city/highway, lite off-road/trail). My main questions are: Do you think I'll need to get UCAs for tire fitment of sizes in the 33" range? At what lift heights is a diff drop needed to protect CVs? Thanks in advance!

 

[ShaunStiffler]

Any word on bump stop kits and sway bay drops would be helpful too. I've never lifted before so I'm not sure what all needs to be done to ensure proper ride. Thanks again.

 

[Rimcrew]

Do you think I'll need to get UCAs for tire fitment of sizes in the 33" range?

I run 255-75-17 BFG KM's on my stock height '99 and there is no rubbing of the stock UCA's. I'm not sure if a lift would change that, but you should be ok.

At what lift heights is a diff drop needed to protect CVs? Thanks in advance!

I've always heard anything three inches and above needs the drop.