Speaker replacement & Sub addition

[GearJunkie88]

The other day I posted something about upgrading my speakers. Since then several folks have PMed me with questions. I am happy to share what I learned and my opinions and it might be beneficial to share in a public forum rather than in a bunch of PMs. So here goes…

The stock sound (Entune Premium with Nav) was lousy… I give a grade of D. The main problem was that the highs and bass were ok, but there was nothing in the middle. I wanted to keep the Entune head unit because I kinda like it and a comparable aftermarket head unit with navigation was going to cost over $1500 after including all the steering wheel controls, XM satellite receiver, etc. My goal was to improve sound quality, retain factory functionality, and not hack-up all the wiring.

Shopping list:
Front speakers: Focal IS 690TOY: Focal IS 690TOY 6"x9" component speaker system designed to fit select Toyotas at Crutchfield.com – This includes 6x9 speakers the front door and 3.5” tweeters for the dash. The kit is designed for Toyota, includes mounting brackets, wiring harnesses, and is plug-and-play.

Rear Speakers: Polk DB651s:Polk Audio db651 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers — for 6-1/2" and 6-3/4" openings at Crutchfield.com – I probably didn’t need new speakers in the rear doors and the hatch door, but I figured I was in here doing all this, so I might as well put new speakers everywhere. Crutchfield says these won’t fit, but they do. You’ll need the Scosche SAT6 mounting brackets (Scosche SAT6 Speaker Mounting Brackets Install 5-1/4" or 6-1/2" speakers in select 1999-up vehicles at Crutchfield.com) and Metra 71-035LC wiring harnesses (Metra 71-035LC Speaker Wiring Harnesses For select 1992-up vehicles ? adapt new speakers to the factory wiring plugs at Crutchfield.com). I think Amazon calls these Metra 70-1761, but they look like the exact same part.

I also bought two 2-door kits and one bulk pack of Dynamat Xtreme.

I removed the front and rear door panels following these videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AB4l5y6Sa8&list=PLFuSO7p8sCy10Vk2DvJcxCy7xCidVhEXf&index=2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xfjJBh_KzM&index=3&list=PLFuSO7p8sCy10Vk2DvJcxCy7xCidVhEXf

I installed the Dynamat on the interior of the door (the back side of the metal that is outside the truck) and on the exterior (the part you see when you immediately take off the plastic door panel). One 2-door kit covers one door (inside and outside layers). So, both 2-door kits were used on the front doors. I did the same with the rear doors, using the bulk pack of Dynamat. These doors are smaller, so you’ll use less material. Reinstalling the door panels was tricky. I followed advice in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QiToWELpXk.

For the rear hatch, I removed the bolt that holds the pull-down strap then popped the panel free. Since these speakers are way in the back, I wasn’t as concerned with putting Dynamat everywhere, so I just put it on the inside (again, on the backside of the metal that is outside the truck). I didn’t bother unhooking all the wires and removing a bunch of metal panels. I had 2 full sheets of Dynamat left over because of this. I may go back and use the remaining material to coat the outside parts of the hatch. Replacing the rear hatch panel isn’t as tricky as the doors. It’s easiest to do with the hatch door closed.

At this point, the factory stereo with factory speakers sounded much better. Upgraded from a grade of D to C, maybe a C+.

I installed the Focal speakers in the front doors and dash. It was very easy. Just removed the existing speakers and the new ones fit right in place. I didn’t even need to use the extra wiring harnesses that came with the new speakers. The stereo sounded immensely better! Grade of B-… it was still missing the mid-range sounds I wanted, though. I probably could have lived with this.

The Polk DB651s with the Scosche SAT6 mounting brackets and Metra wiring harnesses went in the rear doors and rear hatch door. No problems. Note, I only had to purchase one package of Metra wiring harnesses because there was a pair of harnesses left over from the Focal kit. I don’t notice any appreciable difference with the rear speaker upgrade.

If I were to make a recommendation at this point, I’d recommend to buy one bulk pack of Dynamat (or whatever brand of sound deadener you prefer). Lay it on thick on the front doors, use less on the rear doors, and even less on the rear hatch door. Upgrade the front speakers… skip the rear speakers.

Next post… adding a compact sub.

 

[GearJunkie88]

Compact Sub Installation

Shopping list:
Subwoofer: Kenwood KSC-SW11:Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact powered subwoofer at Crutchfield.com -- I didn’t want to have to install an amp, line out converter, etc. so I purchased this sub based on reviews found on this forum. It fits nicely under the passenger seat.

Head unit wiring harness: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009UHKW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Head unit reverse wiring harness: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007KK2LK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

14 gauge wire (purchased at local auto shop)

Ring terminal, 16-14 gauge, 3/8” (purchased at local auto shop)

Bullet connectors, 16-14 gauge, male and female (purchased at local auto shop)

The sub install was kind of tricky and requires removing the head unit. I removed the head unit by following this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGCGholXwLk&index=1&list=PLFuSO7p8sCy10Vk2DvJcxCy7xCidVhEXf

In case you are wondering, this is what the backside of the head unit looks like. This is the Entune Premium with XM and Nav.

I loosely followed Antman’s write-up for installing a Sound Ordnance slim sub (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/92013-antmans-thread-24.html). The Kenwood sub has “bullet connectors” at the ends of the wires. Rather than cutting these off, I bought some bullet connectors and some extra 14-gauge wire.

Here’s what the bullet connectors on the Kenwood speaker wires look like:

The Kenwood sub requires a wire that runs to the positive terminal on the battery, just like in Antman’s thread. I put a bullet connector on one end of a 4” segment of wire and a 3/8” ring terminal on the other end. This hooks-up under the bolt on the battery cable. It’s the blue thing in the picture below. By the way – I actually connected this to the battery after everything else below was finished.

I ran this wire through the firewall. You can see it in the picture below – it’s the yellow wire going through the rubber gasket. To get this wire through the rubber gasket, I used a box cutter to cut a very small hole and inserted the wire. I followed Antman’s directions and this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C40P7nqVglo&index=8&list=PLFuSO7p8sCy10Vk2DvJcxCy7xCidVhEXf. I wrapped some split loom around this wire because I didn’t want it getting burned, rubbed, accidentally cut, etc…

I brought the wire through the firewall, down the driver’s side kick panel, under the driver’s side step molding, under the carpet that is beneath the driver’s seat (removed the driver’s seat for this – see Antman’s thread), through the center console (see Antman’s thread for removing the center console), under the passenger seat carpet that is beneath the passenger seat (removed the passenger seat for this – see Antman’s thread). I used the mounting bracket that came with the sub to lift it a bit off the heater tube that runs under the passenger seat.

This is what it all looks like when the seat is put back in place.

And here’s a picture of what it looks like from a higher angle – as if you were sitting in rear seat. You can’t see the sub at all.

The Kenwood is able to use high-level speaker connections to the sub. Rather than hacking-up the factory wiring harness (FWH), I purchased a wiring harness (WH -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009UHKW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and reverse wiring harness (RWH -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007KK2LK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). There are 2 connectors in each package. The 10-pin connector has the front speaker wires and some others for power connections. The 6-pin connector has the rear speaker wires.

I read somewhere on this forum that if I used the connector for the rear speakers, I would lose the functionality of the head unit lights. So, I didn’t use it. I only used the 10-pin connector.

I connected the WH and RWH wires together using butt connectors. You can see them in the photo below – they are the blue and red things in the center of the picture. I connected yellow to yellow (12V battery constant), black to black (ground), black/white to black/white (factory amp ground, I don’t think this is actually used), blue/white to blue/white (factory amp remote turn-on, I don’t think this is actually used), orange to orange (illumination dimmer), orange/white (illum dimmer), orange/black (illum dimmer ground), and brown (mute, I don’t think this is used).

For the red wire (12V ignition switched), I spliced in the “power control” wire from the sub using a bullet connector. This will serve as the remote turn-on for the amp.

For the white (left front speaker +), white/black (left front speaker -), grey (right front speaker +), and gray/black (right front speaker -) wires, I spliced in the speaker wires from the sub. Again, I used bullet connectors to connect a bit of extra wire (it’s a red and red/black wire) from the Kenwood-supplied wires and butt connectors to connect the wires to the WH and RWH. Plug the reverse wiring harness into the head unit. Plug the factory wiring harness into the wiring harness.

Hook up the sub ground wire to one of the bolts on the seat (like in Antman’s thread).

By not cutting any of the wires on the factory wiring harness or the sub, removing this whole setup will be easy if I ever decide to sell something to upgrade (e.g., sell the sub for a different one) or sell the truck and keep the speakers.

Sound check – it was great. I give it a grade of A. The mids are there now. The little sub does a lot more than I thought it would. No… it won’t make cars next to you jealous or mad… it’s not that loud/obnoxious. My recommendation at this point: after doing the Dynamat and front speakers (in the previous post), add a compact sub. I still say to skip the rear speakers, but add a little Dyanamat back there just to help the factory speakers sound a little better.

 

[justwoody1]

Thanks for the write up. I've been debating on doing this.

 

[Rogue_Runner77]

Great Write up! Thanks! gives me the confidence to tackle this project!

 

[mcarey86]

Great thread. Definitely like those front speakers.

 

[Spokanesteve]

Great write-up - much appreciated!

Cheers, Steve.

 

[4RunnerINprogress]

My build is going to be similar and will be soon once all my parts come in....great thread!

 

[headpaneer]

This is beautiful. Thanks for taking the time to detail this process so thoroughly. Going to move this mod up on my priority list! :rockon:

 

[denim]

GearJunkie88 - great post.

I just had Hushmat installed in my 2017 TRD Off Road. It was installed in all of the doors, floors, rear hatch, rear quarters, and rear half of roof (I have the moonroof and so Hushmat was not installed in that area). The center console was left alone.

The results were right in line for what I was hoping for. I have an app on my phone called Decibel X - it's a free db reader and I have no idea as to its accuracy - my previous vehicle was a 2012 VW Touareg and at 70mph it registered around 88 db. When I use this app it bounces quite a bit so my readings below are given in a range.

Before Hushmat = 86-89db 70mph with no radio and no AC.
After Hushmat = 80-83db 70 mph with no radio and no AC

It is a very noticeable difference in road noise when driving. For those reading this decibel readings are non-linear - I read online (so it must be right - ha) that a reduction of 6db would give you the perception of it being 34% more quite - that sounds about right to me.

As for the stock radio head unit - I like it - it's Entune and does what I want it to do. I was going to purchase an OEM Audio + system after reading the reviews. Then I had the Hushmat installed and suddenly the stock sound didn't sound so terrible anymore. Once I read this thread I decided not to buy the OEM Audio + system and have ordered Focal ISS690 front speakers - the advisor at Crutch said this was the same speaker as the 690TOY without the perfect fit for the tweeter. All in on the Focal is $189 - it was on sale with $100 off so it made my decision easier. I will be installing the Focal speakers this week and then I'll let my ears determine if I need the sub or an amp for my listening preferences.

There is a wealth of knowledge on this site - one thing I can say for certain is that if you plan to upgrade your sound system invest a bit more by installing a sound control product either before or during the audio upgrade process - you'll get much more out of your investment.

As for this thread - GearJunkie88 and Antman - thanks for taking the time to share your experiences and knowledge.