Speedo and Odo not working, check engine, VSC, ABS, and Ebrake lights on.

TN4runner05

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I know this has been asked several times on here, but I am having trouble finding a solution. It seems that most find a solution, but do not post it. On my way to work this morning I noticed my speedometer and odometer wasn't working. Also the check engine, VSC, ABS, and Ebrake lights were all on. The rest of the gauges (tach,gas,temp) are still working. I also put it in 4wd and it worked too. It almost seems like the Car does not recognize that it is running, but rather it think it is just in the on position. If someone could help me with this I would be forever grateful.

A little background. It is an 05 4wd 4.0L Sport. I recently had brakes and rotors replaced, belt, spark plugs and installed a new stereo. It is also about 15 degree F in Tennessee right now.

I have done a little reading on the zero point calibration, but I do not see anyone that had the speedo issue trying this. Should I give it a shot? I am currently studying for my CPA exam so I do not have time to tinker around with the rig, plus its cold!
 
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I am thinking that is where I will start. Would a dead speed sensor cause the other warning lights mentioned to come on? VSC, ABS and Ebrake?
 
I'm having the same problem. Picked up a new abs brake control module off eBay and popped that in. Unfortuneltly that Dosent fix anything. Maybe I'll try a speed sensor next. Anyone else figure something out?
 
I know this has been asked several times on here, but I am having trouble finding a solution. It seems that most find a solution, but do not post it. On my way to work this morning I noticed my speedometer and odometer wasn't working. Also the check engine, VSC, ABS, and Ebrake lights were all on. The rest of the gauges (tach,gas,temp) are still working. I also put it in 4wd and it worked too. It almost seems like the Car does not recognize that it is running, but rather it think it is just in the on position. If someone could help me with this I would be forever grateful.

A little background. It is an 05 4wd 4.0L Sport. I recently had brakes and rotors replaced, belt, spark plugs and installed a new stereo. It is also about 15 degree F in Tennessee right now.

I have done a little reading on the zero point calibration, but I do not see anyone that had the speedo issue trying this. Should I give it a shot? I am currently studying for my CPA exam so I do not have time to tinker around with the rig, plus its cold!

Have you pulled the codes?


For the ABS & Brake lights:
You need to perform a bleeding of the brakes (start on the rear passenger wheel, then rear driver, then front passenger, then front driver. Instructions included below. (ABS lights will remain on if you have damaged sensors/wiring).

Additionally, my speedo went out on me over the weekend. I did a re-calibration and my speedo started working again.

BLEEDING

NOTICE:

Wash off brake fluid immediately if it comes into contact with a painted surface.
If the brake pedal is depressed with the reservoir cap removed, then brake fluid will spatter.

HINT:

If any work is done on the brake system or if air in the brake lines is suspected, bleed the air from the system.
When bleeding, keep the amount of the fluid between the Min. and Max. lines on the reservoir.

FILL RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID Fluid: SAE J1703 or FMVSS NO. 116 DOT3
BLEED BRAKE BOOSTER W/ACCUMULATOR PUMP ASSEMBLY HINT: Perform this step only if the brake booster with accumulator pump assembly is removed and/or installed.

(a) Turn the ignition switch off, depress the brake pedal 20 times or more , and release the pressure from the accumulator.
(b) Fully depress the brake pedal 10 times .
(c) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and start the brake booster pump.
(d) Make sure the pump operates for 8 to 14 seconds .
If the pump does not operate as specified, repeat steps (a) to (c) and recheck the operating time.



BLEED BRAKE LINE

(a) Front brake line
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait until the pump motor has stopped.
(2) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(3) Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
(4) At the point when the fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal.
Torque: 11 Nm (112 kgf/cm, 8 ft. lbs.)
(5) Repeat (3) and (4) until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
(6) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the other brake line.



(b) Rear brake line
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and depress the brake pedal.
(2) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(3) Loosen the bleeder plug and release air.

HINT: Brake fluid is sent through the pump, so keep the brake pedal depressed until the air is completely bled out.

(4) When the air is completely bled out of the brake fluid through the bleeder plug, tighten the bleeder plug.
Torque: 11 Nm (112 kgf/cm, 8 ft. lbs.)
(5) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the other brake line.



BLEED MASTER CYLINDER SOLENOID HINT: Perform this step only if the master cylinder solenoid is removed and/or installed.

(a) Connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3.
(b) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
(c) Select "ACTIVE TEST" mode on the intelligent tester.
(d) Connect the vinyl tube to the rear brake caliper.
(e) Loosen the bleeder plug.
(f) Select "SRMF & SRMR" to drive the solenoids and bleed air from the rear brake caliper.

NOTICE: Do not depress the brake pedal.

HINT:

Brake fluid is sent through the pump.
To protect the solenoids, the intelligent tester turns OFF automatically 2 seconds after every solenoid has been turned ON.

(g) Repeat step (f) until all the air in the brake fluid is bled out.
(h) When the air is completely bled out of the brake fluid through the bleeder plug, tighten the bleeder plug.
Torque: 11 Nm (112 kgf/cm, 8 ft. lbs.)
(i) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the other brake line.
(j) Turn the ignition switch off.
(k) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
(l) Clear DTC.

CHECK FLUID LEVEL IN RESERVOIR
 

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