Sprint Booster

I am very interested. I do not think the price is too crazy. But been spending a lot lately. Will likely do, maybe a Christmas present?!
 
Disclaimer: I have one installed and wish Toyota would have this installed with an OEM model.
I love the way it makes my T4R feel as far as throttle response.


Maybe you are actually driving differently because of the feel of response from the install and not the SprintBooster itself.

From their website:
How It Works

Sprint Booster modifies the signal between the accelerator pedal module and the electronic throttle body. This modified signal forces the throttle body to open 'more' than the stock signal at a given pedal position. In effect, the idle-to-full-throttle pedal travel is reduced. This makes your car 'feel' more powerful because a given pedal input produces greater throttle opening. This is especially evident in the low to mid rpm range where most cars spend their time on the street.

Sprint Booster simply modifies the throttle signal between the accelerator pedal and the throttle body. Big deal right? Keep in mind, this is the same concept as the 'throttle pulley' modification on cable based throttle systems - which was very popular in it's time. It doesn't add horsepower, but makes the throttle more sensitive and makes the car 'feel' faster.

graph.jpg

Thought I would add this video as it demonstrates how it works.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/D4EqQF61YLc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Currently experimenting with Red mode, but think green is the sweet spot.
 
Thought I would add this video as it demonstrates how it works.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/D4EqQF61YLc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Currently experimenting with Red mode, but think green is the sweet spot.


I find the red mode uncomfortable and annoying. Also passengers don't like it the kick downs are violent.
 
Well, I received mine tonight and decided to give it a try.

First, I may have screwed it up by not correctly following the instructions to leave the door open 5min w/the key "OFF". I had issues w/the CEL -- even when going back to stock. After screwing with it for a bit I'm finally (happily) back to stock.

I got the booster installed, and set the light to green. Went for a ride and the CEL came on and the truck coasted to a stop. I had to rip out the booster on the side of the road to get home.

The connectors aren't confidence inspiring. They don't fit with OE quality. There isn't a secure "snap" on either end -- at least not that I managed to find.

FWIW, this booster has two connectors and a short section of wire between them. One connector plugs into the pedal assy. The other plugs into the wiring harness. Allows you to avoid the (hot) heater core pipes.

Net: i'm back to stock and about to give up. Anybody have any words of encouragement/advice?
 
Well, I received mine tonight and decided to give it a try.

First, I may have screwed it up by not correctly following the instructions to leave the door open 5min w/the key "OFF". I had issues w/the CEL -- even when going back to stock. After screwing with it for a bit I'm finally (happily) back to stock.

I got the booster installed, and set the light to green. Went for a ride and the CEL came on and the truck coasted to a stop. I had to rip out the booster on the side of the road to get home.

The connectors aren't confidence inspiring. They don't fit with OE quality. There isn't a secure "snap" on either end -- at least not that I managed to find.

FWIW, this booster has two connectors and a short section of wire between them. One connector plugs into the pedal assy. The other plugs into the wiring harness. Allows you to avoid the (hot) heater core pipes.

Net: i'm back to stock and about to give up. Anybody have any words of encouragement/advice?

I just got one in the mail today. Going to install it tonight and will report back.
 
Well, I received mine tonight and decided to give it a try.

First, I may have screwed it up by not correctly following the instructions to leave the door open 5min w/the key "OFF". I had issues w/the CEL -- even when going back to stock. After screwing with it for a bit I'm finally (happily) back to stock.

I got the booster installed, and set the light to green. Went for a ride and the CEL came on and the truck coasted to a stop. I had to rip out the booster on the side of the road to get home.

The connectors aren't confidence inspiring. They don't fit with OE quality. There isn't a secure "snap" on either end -- at least not that I managed to find.

FWIW, this booster has two connectors and a short section of wire between them. One connector plugs into the pedal assy. The other plugs into the wiring harness. Allows you to avoid the (hot) heater core pipes.

Net: i'm back to stock and about to give up. Anybody have any words of encouragement/advice?

You may shoot [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] (resident Toyota Guru) a PM to find out if there is anything special you could do to reset your ECU.

On a side note, when I installed my SprintBooster, I followed the instructions to the letter & didn't have the first issue.
I could understand your dilemma if no instructions were sent.
Did your box have instructions in it?
 
I followed the instructions to the T and everything worked great. I had no ECU issues.

This is truly how the 5th gen should drive from the dealerships.


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You may shoot [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] (resident Toyota Guru) a PM to find out if there is anything special you could do to reset your ECU.

On a side note, when I installed my SprintBooster, I followed the instructions to the letter & didn't have the first issue.
I could understand your dilemma if no instructions were sent.
Did your box have instructions in it?

Yes, the box had instructions.

question for you guys: did the connectors snap into place securely with yours? Mine didn't feel nearly as secure as the stock plugs.

The CEL is probably operator error. I may try it again tomorrow. The question I have is: does the key need to be in the ignition, OFF, while the door is open for 5min? Or, can I just open the door for 5min?

for those of you without the booster, these questions will be pretty odd :)
 
Yes, the box had instructions.

question for you guys: did the connectors snap into place securely with yours? Mine didn't feel nearly as secure as the stock plugs.

The CEL is probably operator error. I may try it again tomorrow. The question I have is: does the key need to be in the ignition, OFF, while the door is open for 5min? Or, can I just open the door for 5min?

for those of you without the booster, these questions will be pretty odd :)

I did it a couple months ago, but if remember correctly I left the door open for five minutes, key in my pocket. Then, I installed the sprint booster and turned the car on. I pretty much just followed the instructions. Whatever it said in there, I would follow. Worked perfectly for me the first try. I haven't had any issues and I've had it installed for about two months. Taken it on road trips and to work and back every day.

The connectors didn't seem as secure as the OEM connectors for sure, but once installed it seemed like it was snug in place and I didn't question it. I did my best to tuck the wiring up and away from the pedals so there's no chance of me disconnecting it accidentally.
 
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Yes, the box had instructions.

question for you guys: did the connectors snap into place securely with yours? Mine didn't feel nearly as secure as the stock plugs.

The CEL is probably operator error. I may try it again tomorrow. The question I have is: does the key need to be in the ignition, OFF, while the door is open for 5min? Or, can I just open the door for 5min?

for those of you without the booster, these questions will be pretty odd :)

Good morning,
I just installed mine 10 minutes ago. I consider myself "not at all mechanically inclined." The entire process took about 10 minutes and half of that was waiting with the door open to begin.
Here is what I did.
1. Open drivers door and keep it open for a minimum of 5 minutes. I did not put the key in the ignition. it sat on the seat.

2. After 5-6 minutes I unclipped the OEM connector from the pedal. You need to push in the clip which is on the right side of the connector and pull up. It's in there securely so pull it with some strength. No need to unbolt anything. Just grab a headlamp and maybe some knee pads and get up in there!

3. I then connected the sprint booster as the directions said. Very straight forward and really only one way to do it. I have not tucked in wires yet. It's not to bad the way it sits now. The connectors felt solid to me.

I started up my truck, no CEL, put the sprint booster on the green setting and took a short 5 minute drive...


I have to say...IMO it is WELL worth the cost and it's a fantastic simple mod.
I'm used to driving cars that have a much quicker response to driver pedal input and this solves it! No more burying the gas pedal. The truck feels freaking great now! For those who drive their 4runner only and nothing else, maybe you're used to driving it with a heavier foot. But I drive my wife's 2015 highlander a bit and although it's not a sports car, it sure responds quicker than my truck and it takes a second to adapt. IMO the sprint booster will make the transition much more seamless. It's how the truck should've come from the factory. I could see maybe off road or in snow you may want to turn it off, but maybe not.
Again, this is a review after a very short test drive.
I have a road trip tomorrow so I'll report back after more use. Not interested in the red mode as of now. The green was enough pep to make me smile!
 
Yes, the box had instructions.

question for you guys: did the connectors snap into place securely with yours? Mine didn't feel nearly as secure as the stock plugs.

The CEL is probably operator error. I may try it again tomorrow. The question I have is: does the key need to be in the ignition, OFF, while the door is open for 5min? Or, can I just open the door for 5min?

for those of you without the booster, these questions will be pretty odd :)

Connectors were tight on mine. Did not snap IIRC, but tight.
No keys in ignition.
Be safe, leave door open for 6 minutes...time it!

You may want to do a ECU reset prior and remove your NEG battery cable for 4 hours, re-install battery cable, start your truck make a run down the street.

Then install your SprintBooster as per instructions.

At that point, it should be seamless!
 
Tried again.
Did the 10min thing
Plugged it in
Turned truck on. No cel. Sweet.
Tucked the wires, 7unplugged remote.
Looked at dash. Cel. Track control lights
Swore loudly.
Ripped it all out.

Maybe i shouldn't have removed remote cable while truck was running...
 
Tried again.
Did the 10min thing
Plugged it in
Turned truck on. No cel. Sweet.
Tucked the wires, 7unplugged remote.
Looked at dash. Cel. Track control lights&#55357;&#56866;
Swore loudly.
Ripped it all out.

Maybe i shouldn't have removed remote cable while truck was running...

I hate to say this, but issues seem to be operator error.
Everyone that has installed the SB here has not had any issues IIRC, only you.

Try it once more....

Did you reset the ECU by removing the NEG cable for 4 hours, then perform the install?

Once you have it set to desired setting, stop engine, remove keys & place on seat, unplug cable...easy peezy.

Try that, it will perform as intended.
 
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I installed mine today. Followed the directions and it took about 8 minutes. 5 minutes with the door open and 3 minutes for me to wedge myself under there and disconnect the cable. Couldn't have been more straight forward.

I test drove it under both red and green. Red is too harsh for me. I left it on green and it is an improved experience. I took the control cable off and I'm going to leave it like that.
 
I apologize for asking a 4th gen question but...Anyone have experience with it on an 03'. Shows year 04-09 for the 4th gen.


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