Squeak sound in cab from brake pedal

[G_Raw]

Anyone every get an exaggerated squeak sound from their brake pedal?

Basically when I go to press the brakes it sounds like a squeak ( not a hiss) that is very audible in the cab. It sounds like it is at the pedal to fire wall.

No ill affect on braking. Brake fluid is full with no loss.

99 4runner with 231 brake calipers.

I know we are all going to jump to brake booster but I don't want to go replacing that on a whim without verifying it. One they are a pain and two the expensive...

Let me know if you have experienced something similar and how you chased it down. Or even if you just have ideas.

 

[brillo_76]

I have had the clutch pedales squeak. Hit the joint with a little lubricating oil/grease see if it quiets up.

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[Bad Luck]

Anyone every get an exaggerated squeak sound from their brake pedal?

Basically when I go to press the brakes it sounds like a squeak ( not a hiss) that is very audible in the cab. It sounds like it is at the pedal to fire wall.

No ill affect on braking. Brake fluid is full with no loss.

99 4runner with 231 brake calipers.

I know we are all going to jump to brake booster but I don't want to go replacing that on a whim without verifying it. One they are a pain and two the expensive...

Let me know if you have experienced something similar and how you chased it down. Or even if you just have ideas.

Every vehicle I have dealt with that had a squeaky brake pedal was caused by the brake booster. 90% of those were caused by the master cylinder leaking a very small amount of fluid into the brake booster itself. Not enough to really be noticeable and it doesn't take much brake fluid in the booster to make it squeak. Most of them barely had enough brake fluid to be damp inside the brake booster. My recommendation is to replace booster and master.

EDIT: I'm a GM mechanic so I've only had this with GM vehicles. Never experienced it with either of my 4Runners, but I believe the same principles apply.

 

[HiLife]

I would hit part #47264a with a little oil to see if that helps. Oil the return spring contact ends too.
Another unlikely place for squeaks is the bushing #47101b. Make sure they aren't worn out or split, allowing metal to metal contact.
If these free fixes don't work, save up, cause you may have to change the master and/or booster.

 

[octanejunkie]

I have had the clutch pedales squeak. Hit the joint with a little lubricating oil/grease see if it quiets up.

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My clutch pedal squeaks 90% of the time, I'm getting used to it lol

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[Bad Luck]

My clutch pedal squeaks 90% of the time, I'm getting used to it lol

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Mine did too, but I replaced the torsional clutch spring with a linear spring and no more squeak! It's a little stiffer, but feels like any other manual I've driven. 10/10 would recommend and it was cheap to do.

 

[octanejunkie]

Mine did too, but I replaced the torsional clutch spring with a linear spring and no more squeak! It's a little stiffer, but feels like any other manual I've driven. 10/10 would recommend and it was cheap to do.

Did you follow the thread on the Yota forum for removing the torsional spring?

I already found the 70 lb spring at the hardware store...

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[G_Raw]

Already lubed spring and hinges and etc prior to posting. [MENTION=319302]Bad Luck[/MENTION]...I'm running a Chevy 1 ton master to account for the larger calipers :naughty:

That maybe my issue. I was thinking one of the boosters diaphragms might have a hole/leak...

 

[Bad Luck]

Did you follow the thread on the Yota forum for removing the torsional spring?

I already found the 70 lb spring at the hardware store...

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Very loosely lol I ended up pulling the entire clutch pedal assembly out and replacing the two plastic bushing for the pivot bolt as well. I disconnected the pedal from the master pushrod, removed the evap canister to make it easier to remove the master cylinder nuts, pulled the master out an inch, removed the bolt at the top of the clutch pedal assembly, then removed the clutch pedal assembly. Pry the weird torsion spring out, replace the bushings and lube them if you want to, then reinstall. The clutch spring goes from the groove on the pin that connects the master pushrod to the pedal up to a little tab on the instrument panel tie bar. Spring part number 90507-14030 $5 and bushings (requires 2) 90386-13007 $3/ea. I also ground off the tab on the pedal that the torsion spring used to make sure it wouldn’t interfere with the spring. If you need pics or have questions let me know.

 

[octanejunkie]

Very loosely lol I ended up pulling the entire clutch pedal assembly out and replacing the two plastic bushing for the pivot bolt as well.

Thanks for the part numbers, that was handy. I was considering pulling the evap cannister to drill the firewall for wiring so I can do all of this at the same time.

How's the.feel of the clutch pedal after the mod?

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[Bad Luck]

Thanks for the part numbers, that was handy. I was considering pulling the evap cannister to drill the firewall for wiring so I can do all of this at the same time.

How's the.feel of the clutch pedal after the mod?

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You're welcome! Clutch feels a little stiffer. Probably 10-15% increase in stiffness, but smooth all the way through. The torsion spring had worn the notch on the pedal arm and it was causing a weird notchy feeling along with the squeak. 10/10 would recommend.

 

[octanejunkie]

You're welcome! Clutch feels a little stiffer. Probably 10-15% increase in stiffness, but smooth all the way through. The torsion spring had worn the notch on the pedal arm and it was causing a weird notchy feeling along with the squeak. 10/10 would recommend.

I ordered the parts from my dealer yesterday and they are in today, so I might tackle this mod, and bleeding the clutch, this weekend in addition to drilling the firewall.

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