Starter Problem

[MountainBrew]

I got in my car this morning to go to work and it started just fine. About 2 hours later I tried starting it again and I got nothing.
When I turn the key to on, the dash lights turn on like normal. I push the clutch in, turn the key to ignition, and I hear a click but no attempt to turn over. The car has done this a few times before but usually if I give it a minute it starts up again. I am assuming it is a burnt out starter motor, but I really don't know. Any thoughts? Good ways to pinpoint the issue?
Thanks!

Ben

 

[RAD4Runner]

When I turn the key to on, the dash lights turn on like normal. I push the clutch in, turn the key to ignition, and I hear a click but no attempt to turn over. The car has done this a few times before but usually if I give it a minute it starts up again.

I am assuming it is a burnt out starter motor, but I really don't know. Any thoughts?

Do not assume. Verify...

A problem well-stated is a problem almost -solved.
What truck? Model? Year?
The best tools for diagnosing a classic are our senses; Exactly what clicks and where? We cannot guess. You would have to listen, look, feel.

Quick way to narrow down where to look is try this to jump your starter solenoid.
Does it consistently allow you to crank? Report back, then we'll l talk

Good ways to pinpoint the issue?

BEST way to pinpoint the issue is start by understanding how the cranking system works.

 

[MountainBrew]

Oops. 1986 4runner sr5. The clicking was coming from the starter relay. Absolutely nothing from the starter. Did the bypass and still nothing. Found a really good condition starter at Yota Jim's for $25, popped it in and it fired right up!!

 

[RAD4Runner]

Cool!
Good to be able to narrow the problem down, huh?

Absolutely nothing from the starter. Did the bypass and still nothing.

Not even thunking of the starter solenoid? Must be the solenoid coil, then.

Now you have a good starter.


However...

Oops. 1986 4runner sr5

... you're not completely done, yet. 1986-188 22RE's have this wiring flaw. I suggest you also fix it before you fry the ST1 contacts of your ignition switch, or start getting the click-only, no-start issue again.
Flaw is explained and fixed here.

 

[RiFF RaFF]

I got in my car this morning to go to work and it started just fine. About 2 hours later I tried starting it again and I got nothing.
When I turn the key to on, the dash lights turn on like normal. I push the clutch in, turn the key to ignition, and I hear a click but no attempt to turn over. The car has done this a few times before but usually if I give it a minute it starts up again. I am assuming it is a burnt out starter motor, but I really don't know. Any thoughts? Good ways to pinpoint the issue?
Thanks!

Ben

Ben,

Mine does that occasionally. I just give it a few good taps with a big screw driver, and she starts right up again. I figure it's either that the starter is getting long in the tooth, or has been submerged in muddy water once too many times. I'm just too lazy to take it out, and check it. As long as she starts with the screw driver trick I'm happy!

:hail:

 

[Cartzo]

I second [MENTION=75331]RiFF RaFF[/MENTION]. Give it a few good smacks while the key is turned. If it starts up, your starter is bad.

 

[RAD4Runner]

Put up with No-Crank or Fix It

... If it starts up, your starter is bad.

Not necessarily.

It could be:

1. Starter solenoid contacts are bad, although starter motor is good, OR
2. You have mid-1986 to 1988 4Runner 22RE that has the starter relay wired improperly that Toyota even documented on its schematic (I'm surprised Toyota did not recall this). This causes too much voltage drop on wiring from battery, to cabin, to ignition switch ST1 contacts, back to engine compartment, to starter relay contacts and finally to starter solenoid coil. This means not enough power to overcome the spring resistance and any mechanical resistance of the solenoid plunger, preventing the plunger to actuate completely, and therefore preventing solenoid contacts from closing properly.
3. You have an auto transmission, meaning that the power required to energize the starter solenoid has to run over a long wire from battery, to cabin, to ST1 contacts of Ignition switch, back to engine compartment, and finally to solenoid coil. Same power loss issue as (2).
4. You have a manual transmission 4Runner without a starter relay (Early 1986 and earlier-see KidV's thread), meaning same long wire run and power loss issue, and ST1 contacts of your ignition switch have been fried/oxidized/pitted from repeatedly carrying the 12 amps needed to energize the starter solenoid.

Whacking the starter gives the solenoid plunger a much needed nudge toward closing its contacts completely and allowing starter to crank. Choices are: Keep on doing that for the life of the truck or fix it easily.

(1) Can be fixed inexpensively. See 4Crawler's website (here)
(2) Can be fixed during one's lunch break using a little bit of wiring supplies and a fuse. See my signature for explanation and fix. This same issue is also documented on 4crawler's page here.
(3) & (4) can be fixed by adding a starter relay as KidV did (search his thread).