starting new motor

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grousehunter 61

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I have been working on my 93 toyota v6 and yesterday it was time to try and fire it up. It stumbled/ started and stopped, it would try to start but wouldn't stay running. Thinking it may be a fuel problem, I used starting fluid and sprayed it into the hose coming off the air intake, it then sprayed out the passenger side of the intake phellem. From where ???? I don't think I missed any lines or outlets. There is one outlet that loops back under the phellem and that is hooked up. Any ideas........
 
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I am stumped, this is my first time working on a Toyota and I am lost. I can take a chevy apart in my sleep, but this motor has me talking to myself. I don't know where to turn. I had it rebuilt by a very reputable motor builder, he has built motors for me before, he builds motors for racers, he himself is a A/fuel driver. The block was checked for cracks, it has a new crank, new pistons, new heads, new cams, new timing belt, new fuel injectors, new fuel pump, spark plugs, new fuel filter, I installed headers and a aftermarket air intake.

https://imgur.com/a/kU0Gu

The timing has been checked 3 times and it is correct, the mark on the harmonic balancer is on 0, the #1 piston is at top dead center, the cams line up with the marks on the cover,I turned the motor over two times and it came back lined up, both the cams and the harmonic balancer, the distributor is pointing to the #1 wire. I pulled the return fuel line and fuel is squirting out. It is possible that I have a couple of vacuum lines mixed up, but would that stop it from running? I am at my wits end, any help or suggestions would be more then appreciated. I have to much money in it to junk it and to much time to sell it.
 
I just finished putting my intake plenum back on my 1990. There's a rubber to steel line that attaches to the pass side with a 2 prong electrical connector right next to it. I'm new to Toyota too, else I might know what to call them. It connects with one of those hollow bolts for fluid (fuel?) to pass through, which, if you lose, you have to go back to the pick a part yard across town and hope you can find one...I found one...

That's the only thing I can think of.
 

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Just to be sure it's not something involving the air flow sensor, jump Fp to B+ in the diagnostics connector. That will cause the fuel pump to run whenever the key is ON, regardless of the airflow sensor. If the engine runs then, you can figure out what's wrong with the air flow sensor connections. If not, you know you need to look elsewhere.

Normally the fuel pump runs when the key is in the START position. Once the engine starts, the air flowing through the VAFM (air flow meter) holds a relay ON (the COR relay) which continues to keep the fuel pump running. If that circuit is not working, fuel will flow while you're cranking the engine, but the engine will die as soon as the key is released.
 
Bmerr98 yes that is a fuel line and the fitting is called a banjo fitting. I have checked them and all is right. Thank you for answering......

RonJR, you know you are talking greek to me. Is that the small box on the passenger side wheel well ? and are they marked or do I need a schematic. That sounds like what its doing, as long as the key is held in start, it fires, as soon as the key is released it stops. Now to be clear, sometimes it stops before the key is released. Ok fp to b+ I will try that.
 
Yeah, it's the small box on the passenger side. There should be a diagram of the terminals on the underside of the cover, once you pop it open. A paperclip works well for shorting the two terminals. The grease in the terminals is supposed to be there; just push the paperclip through it.

The whole idea of Toyota's interlocking the fuel pump with the air flow meter is for safety in a crash. If you crash and the engine stops, air will stop flowing through the meter, cutting off the fuel pump and preventing a possible fire. So, if the engine runs with the jumper in place, for safety's sake you'll not want to run long-term that way, but rather fix the underlying problem.
 
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OK I found the diagnostic box and found Fp and +b made no difference, still no start. I did find 3 wires that were not plugged in one is a blue on a black wire and I think it has 3 receptacles and a white one with 2 the third was a ground that came off the driver side fender well and was attached to the fender well, I attached it to the motor so it grounds the motor to the fender well and a small diode. The blue and white are on the wire in back of the motor on the driver side. Any ideas ????
 
I should have posted that the vehicle was running when I bought it, not good, but running. It had been over heated and spun #3 and #5 bearings, the heads were also warped. At idle it sounded great, as soon as you gave it a little gas it went to crap.
 
Its to late to check tonight but, is it possible that I have reversed the fuel lines, I know that there are two lines that go to the fuel tank, a pressure line and a return line for the over flow. If I reversed them would that give me the problem I am having??? I noticed tonight that if it sits for a couple of hours it will fire on first try and then dies, but it will not fire again until it sits for a while. I spent all last night in bed rebuilding the motor, going over each part trying to figure out what I did wrong, didn't think about the fuel lines.
 
I have checked and double checked, all vacuum lines are accounted for and in their proper place ( I think ) On the driver side fuel rail there is a regulator that lets the fuel out and back to the fuel tank, it has fuel squirting out when I pull the hose off and crank the motor, but not when its sitting idle. I found a few things that I had missed, the short hose that goes to the passenger side valve cover, that is now hooked up, the plug into the back of the alternator, thats hooked up. When I turn it over I can hear the air flow clicking, should it do that?? Any help is truly appreciated, I an getting to old for this crap.
 
I have given up, its on its way to a Toyota mechanic.I have tried everything I could think of, crossed two wires on the spark plugs, got a good back fire, held the coil wire while the neighbor turned the motor over, just about knocked me on my butt, held the flapper on the air intake open, nothing. Its getting fuel--air--spark and the timing is right on. I half to be missing something but I sure don't know what it could be. All ground wires are hooked up. I don't know about Toyota's but with a chevy if you have fuel-spark-air, you have a running vehicle.:ybrick:
 
Man, I hate to hear that. Hoping it's something simple and inexpensive you somehow overlooked. I like to do my own stunts too, but sometimes you're money ahead calling in a professional. Keep us posted.
 
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OK, the one thing I couldn't check was compression, the right side 120 +- the left side 30, something wrong, don't know if I bent a valve or they were not set right but we won't know until Monday when the mech gets back. I turned it over by hand and never felt any resistance that would indicate a bent valve, but all things are possible.
 
I talked to the mech and he said all the cylinders on the driver side were at 30, I couldn't have bent all the valves turning it over by hand. I am guessing the valves were set to tight by the motor builder, any ideas????
 
I'm about 99% confident that the 3vze V6 is a non-interference motor, meaning that you couldn't have bent the valves regardless of cam timing. Your thought that the exhaust valves are too tight is a possibility. You or your mechanic could check that by pulling the left valve cover, which fortunately is the one not buried under the plenum, so shouldn't be too hard to do.
 
Mech called, the engine builder messed up, the alignment pin in the left cam was left out, allowing the cam to turn or not to turn with the timing belt. He is reinstalling the cam and redoing the timing.
 
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