Stealership quote

jstim

jstim

New member
So I looked at getting a quote from the Stealership today. They told me 650 to change the rear main seal, and another 550 to change the gasket on the oil pan.

I think we all know better than this, but I can't believe they had the nerve to tell me that, on this model they can't take the oil pan off while doing the rear main seal. It sounds like garbage, and as we all know it is. As far as I can tell it looks like that would make it a lot easier to do it.

I want everyone's thoughts on this. The only benefits of them doing it is a 12 month/ 1 year warranty on their work.

What do you think?
 
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The differential is in the way. It's a pain in the ass.

Likely, it's one or the other leaking and not both. When one leaks people tend to mistake that both are leaking. $650 for the rear main job isn't bad for dealership rates. Figure $100 an hour.

At home, with or without air tools, I doubt you could tear it all apart and have it back together in 6 hours. Your time is probably easier replaced versus $100 an hour though like most of us.

I don't think they are bluffing on you. At $1200 for 2 gaskets repaired though, I'd just get a new damn longblock for $1800 with a warranty and throw that in. Beauty of these trucks. One expensive repair is like the equivalent of a new engine practically.
 
99Runnr said:
The differential is in the way. It's a pain in the ass.



Likely, it's one or the other leaking and not both. When one leaks people tend to mistake that both are leaking. $650 for the rear main job isn't bad for dealership rates. Figure $100 an hour.



At home, with or without air tools, I doubt you could tear it all apart and have it back together in 6 hours. Your time is probably easier replaced versus $100 an hour though like most of us.



I don't think they are bluffing on you. At $1200 for 2 gaskets repaired though, I'd just get a new damn longblock for $1800 with a warranty and throw that in. Beauty of these trucks. One expensive repair is like the equivalent of a new engine practically.
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I'm with [MENTION=132328]99Runnr[/MENTION] on this. Your post reminded me of changing the oil pan gaskets on the 1st Gen Honda Pilots (Isuzu Rodeo clone). You basically had to drop the front end. Even though it paid around 10 hours, we'd all find ourselves very busy and unavailable when those things came in to the shop! It was just a PITA. When I was crawling under my rig yesterday I noticed the similarities of having the front diff in the way. It's a lot of work. Some of the simplest repairs require tremendous effort. With typical dealer rates anywhere from $100-$135/HR and the complexity of the work, it sounds about right. A rear main seal leak should be fairly obvious. Have that done and make sure that area and around the oil pan is well cleaned. Keep an eye on it. You might get lucky and not need to deal with the pan. I don't mean to be a Debby Downer, but unless you're up for some serious fumbling around in your driveway for a weekend I'd just get it done. Or get that long block, call some friends and have a really fun weekend!
 
That's the prices you will pay at a dealership, they base their quotes off of flat rate times. If you don't have the tools and the know how to do it yourself your kinda stuck. My suggestion is to find a independent shop that deals with Toyotas a lot and go through them. Usually their hourly rates are lower and they don't always go by flat rate so you might get it all done a lot cheaper.
 
I've seen many mechanics mistaken leaking valve covers as rear main seal. Clean everything up and find the leak before paying out.
 
Yeah, there is a lot of work involved with both jobs. Not the kind of work, I as a mechanic, look forward to doing.

Years ago when we started seeing GM LS series motor come in with leaking pans and rear main seals, we used to try to clean, test drive, and check to verify which was the cause. We finally wasted enough of our time and got enough of them wrong and said "f***-it, they both get replaced!" Haven't had any issues since. If the customer doesn't like the quote and doesn't go for the repair, fine with us. At least I know I won't have an upset customer and wind up doing work for free/cheaper.
 
My valve covers gaskets are leaking so badly right now it's made it all the way to the oil pan. I'm not sure why I didn't ad that observation to my previous post. I must've had still had visions of my installed winch bumper and winch in my mind... [emoji848]
 
jstim said:
So I looked at getting a quote from the Stealership today. They told me 650 to change the rear main seal, and another 550 to change the gasket on the oil pan.

I think we all know better than this, but I can't believe they had the nerve to tell me that, on this model they can't take the oil pan off while doing the rear main seal. It sounds like garbage, and as we all know it is. As far as I can tell it looks like that would make it a lot easier to do it.

I want everyone's thoughts on this. The only benefits of them doing it is a 12 month/ 1 year warranty on their work.

What do you think?
Click to expand...

I think the dealership has a lot of overhead and pays their technicians well so it is always going to cost a lot for repairs in a dealership. But any high quality shop will cost a lot, although maybe not as much. 12 month=1 year! Most good shops give a warranty!
 
So I'm sure it's not the valve covers. I have gotten in and looked around and am not seeing anything that says obvious leak from the valve covers. I cleaned it up 2 or 3 times and I'm still hard pressed to tell. I figured from looking at it the oil pan would come out fairly easily once the engine/trans were separated.
I was hoping to find a cool mom and pop automotive shop around here. But where I have found myself in Oklahoma, there isn't any skill, much less work ethic. So trying to find a skilled laborer here is unreal. Asked at all the parts stores, I got the name of a single guy. I may look into it, they said he runs about 35 an hour. My only fear is it will get put back together and not torqued to spec.

I really would like to stay with the original engine as long as I can just to see how long it will go, but where are you guys getting your long blocks from?

Or does anyone know of any high quality shops in Southern Ok, or Wichita Falls, TX area?
 
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jstim said:
So I'm sure it's not the valve covers. I have gotten in and looked around and am not seeing anything that says obvious leak from the valve covers. I cleaned it up 2 or 3 times and I'm still hard pressed to tell. I figured from looking at it the oil pan would come out fairly easily once the engine/trans were separated.
I was hoping to find a cool mom and pop automotive shop around here. But where I have found myself in Oklahoma, there isn't any skill, much less work ethic. So trying to find a skilled laborer here is unreal. Asked at all the parts stores, I got the name of a single guy. I may look into it, they said he runs about 35 an hour. My only fear is it will get put back together and not torqued to spec.

I really would like to stay with the original engine as long as I can just to see how long it will go, but where are you guys getting your long blocks from?

Or does anyone know of any high quality shops in Southern Ok, or Wichita Falls, TX area?
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Have you tried using Yelp to search for a mechanic or shop in your area? People leave feedback and reviews on their experience so you can find a shop that gets excellent reviews and avoid the ones that get poor reviews. Yelp is a great resource for finding good businesses, restaurants, etc.
 
I just yanked a motor with 243K on it and the rear main seal was bone dry. Do the oil pan first and it'll probably stop leaking
 
mtbtim said:
Have you tried using Yelp to search for a mechanic or shop in your area? People leave feedback and reviews on their experience so you can find a shop that gets excellent reviews and avoid the ones that get poor reviews. Yelp is a great resource for finding good businesses, restaurants, etc.
Click to expand...

Yeah I use Yelp for lots when I'm in a new area. There isn't anyone who gets any even decent reviews. It's unfortunate.
 
99Runnr said:
The differential is in the way. It's a pain in the ass.

Likely, it's one or the other leaking and not both. When one leaks people tend to mistake that both are leaking. $650 for the rear main job isn't bad for dealership rates. Figure $100 an hour.

At home, with or without air tools, I doubt you could tear it all apart and have it back together in 6 hours. Your time is probably easier replaced versus $100 an hour though like most of us.

I don't think they are bluffing on you. At $1200 for 2 gaskets repaired though, I'd just get a new damn longblock for $1800 with a warranty and throw that in. Beauty of these trucks. One expensive repair is like the equivalent of a new engine practically.
Click to expand...

Where are these long blocks you speak of?
 
joshespdx said:
My valve covers gaskets are leaking so badly right now it's made it all the way to the oil pan. I'm not sure why I didn't ad that observation to my previous post. I must've had still had visions of my installed winch bumper and winch in my mind... [emoji848]
Click to expand...

Well, here's a good tutorial for you to follow in case you want to fix your leaky valve covers. [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I made the video. We decided to make our own when we found the ones already in existence lacking the detail we would have liked to have.

Enjoy!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/N5fAXAuGozI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
I don't think you should knock the dealership prices unless you can do it yourself cheaper, as others have said.

If they quoted you $600 for valve cover gaskets, that's one thing... but with the rear main.. you have to pull the freaking engine or the tranny. That isn't some small job.
 
This is my advice to you. Go to O'r or what ever you have in your area. Pik up some brake clean and go to town cleaning the hell out of everything! Then while you are there get a oil base trace dye. Run it for a day. Then go looking for all the leaks with the black light kit they also sell. They are like 12 bucks. The dye is around 9.99

They you will know what the big leaks are and go from there. If it is only valve cover gaskets you can do that your self at home. They are easy. Well I say that but I like to turn wrenches at home but really it is not that bad at all.

Good luck.

Blue
 
In my limited experience, I have found that small town dealers are less likely to be crooks and more likely to be responsive and responsible. Unlike in the big city, they have to see their customers at the grocery store and the local bar.
 
Both are pain the ass jobs, rear main involves pulling the trans, and oil pan invloves dropping the front diff and CV's. That's removal and replacement of half the drivetrain in itself, that's hy it's expensive. Time.
 
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