Steering issue 1995 4wd 4Runner

[voiddweller]

Steering, wobbling, 4wd issue 1995 4wd 4Runner -UPDATED

I'm having a steering question, 4wd question and some front end wobbling at 55+mph. I'm really not that great with steering mechanics so I'm hoping someone can guide me in figuring out what it is.

Basically when driving down the road straight, if I turn left, the steering immediately responds to a left turn, however - a right turn from straight has about 2 inches of wheel play to the right turn before the truck actually starts turning right. I am also experiencing some front end vibration at speeds over 50mph. I got the tires balanced to hopefully solve the whobbling and haven't taken it out yet, but I'm not sure where that wheel play might be coming from and if it is something that needs to be fixed? I've been told by the guys at the stealership that these trucks had some play in the steering, just to make sure its aligned and balanced and it should be fine.. Thoughts?

Also Unrelated to the steering (I think) I just took it out into some really loose sand to test out the 4wd system. It works, kinda. If I go straight in L4 or H4 I hear some rough sounds coming from up front, however if I turn left or right at all, I hear really loud popping (like cv-joint popping).. It does not happen unless its in 4wd. Ideas? Could it be simply something that needs lubed, greased?

Edit: I got underneath the vehicle and upon inspection I located this bar that has a broken off bolt on a bracket with no head on the bolt, clean brake and the bracet is loose/hanging off. I can manipulate the rod back and forth with a little play in it. I am not sure what it is, but here's the pics - could this be attributing to the wobbling at 55+ mph?

 

[voiddweller]

updated with pics

updated with pics

 

[KidVermicious]

That's your sway bar, and no, it shouldn't be affecting your steering or causing your wobble. You could take that thing off completely and all you'd notice is a little more body roll when you turn hard.

To check for worn steering/alignment parts, jack each front wheel into the air one at a time and try and shake it - if you get wobble with your hands at 1200 and 600, that's generally a bad ball joint. Wobble with your hands at 300 and 900 is normally a bad tie rod end. Bad wheel bearings and worn a-arm bushings can also cause wobble and steering weirdness, and are also pretty easy to test for.

You can also lie underneath the truck while somebody turns the steering wheel and watch for parts moving when they shouldn't or not moving when they should. It's pretty obvious what does what when you get down there and look at the steering box and tie rod linkages, so if you're willing to get dirty your trouble shouldn't be hard to track down.

 

[voiddweller]

Thanks for the advice. I'll have the girlfriend turn the wheel for me while I'm under it and see what happens. All the linkages seem to have bushings. I've never worked on steering and suspension type things in the front end before, but I'm willing to try.

Should I assume any bushings with cracks need to be replaced?

I see grease gun inserts available on the ball joints and a few other places, should I go ahead and grease all that stuff with universal grease?

I watched a really good movie on ball joint replacement on youtube. With the right tools I think I might be able to do it, my limit so far is starters, alternators, brakes, rotors, drums, etc. With a Haynes manual I think I might be able to do tie rods and the like..

 

[KidVermicious]

If you can do brakes, you can do tie rod ends and ball joints.

A cracked bushing isn't necessarily bad, watch for play at the bushing as she turns the wheel.

 

[voiddweller]

Ok. I guess I am a bit worried about rusted/sized bolts after seeing that broken one on the sway bar bracket. I guess I could buy a blow torch or something to heat frozen ones and use some pb blaster. Having a 1 year old all the time makes working on the truck difficult.

 

[9494runner]

Yes definitely ball joints and tie rods, had a similar issue with my 94s steering and it randomly would drift in differing directions. Did the tie rods and ball joints when I redid my suspension; she now tracks true going 65, saying look ma no hands! (when she could) no play in the wheel; you also can adjust your bolt on the seeing box below the radiator overflow bottle but that will not do anything for you if your bjs, tie rods are shot

Pb blaster or liquid wrench those bolts a day or two before hit it every few hours. If you need heat you don't need a full torch, I have a little benzomatic from lowes that screws onto a yellow gas bottle for brazing. I also picked up a fireproof cloth that I use to cover anything I don't want to toast. Remember alot of heat is not kind to bolt strength

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

Front end

If you dont have a propane torch already , get a MAP torch, gets MUCH hotter , allows you heat some parts not possible with propane. Still most of the front end is so massive that sufficient heating is difficult, fortunately the bolts are huge too, should be able toget it apart without too much damage.

These IFS front ends are amazingly easy to work on; I like that there is no spring compressor required, takes much of the excitement out of front end work.
you can replace balljoints without removing the half shafts, don't skimp, go Beck Arnley or better. Overall, pulling these shafts is easier than the typical FWD vehicle.

THe wheel bearing support the hub, The drive shafts when unlocked rotate in bronze bushings (inside the steering knuckle). Seeing the corrosion on your truck, since moving out west is no longer an option, you better R&R the grease in the bushings. There are at least three seals (depending on how you count oil seals versus dust seals and how far in to the diff you want to look) that might make sense to replace. All that stuff is available aftermarket

 

[voiddweller]

Well. I went out and inspected all the connections and bushings (Grease bushings?) I applied an ample amount of grease to all the fittings I could find with my grease gun, they all seemed to 'inflate' with grease. I guess they were empty? I didn't even realize the entire front end had grease outlets on it and what seems to be every connection. They have what looks like little springs around the bushings, when filled, they overflow the grease at the seams?

I have a little placard on my drivers side visor that has some grease identifier points for the drive shaft but nothing for the front end steering system. I haven't jacked up the front end yet to check the play on the tires, but hope to be able to after I get some free baby-less time this evening or tomorrow during baby nap time..

This is all new to me. I always had brand new trucks with sealed systems and took them for the dealer for maintenance..

I guess maybe the Haynes manual I ordered off Amazon will have some sort of diagram for the places to grease with the gun?

Sometime this week I'll be draining and replacing the 4wd, manual tran and rear end gear oil. I'm hoping the 4wd is just empty that's why its making noise..

This is the visor card.. are there any other locations that I am missing?

 

[KidVermicious]

Ok. I guess I am a bit worried about rusted/sized bolts after seeing that broken one on the sway bar bracket. I guess I could buy a blow torch or something to heat frozen ones and use some pb blaster. Having a 1 year old all the time makes working on the truck difficult.

Soak them in PB Blast every day for a couple days before you start, it'll make a huge difference.

 

[KidVermicious]

This is the visor card.. are there any other locations that I am missing?

That's not YOUR visor card, that one's for a solid axle truck, '84 or '85 .

Where you've got grease zerks depends entirely on what parts are on the truck. Some brands of ball joints and tie rod ends and such have zerks, and some don't. Look on the ball joints, look on the inner and outer tie rod ends, look on the pitman arm and idler arm. You'll have zerks in a couple different places on the driveshafts, and if you've upgraded your rear springs you might have zerks on the shackles. There will not be zerks on the control arm bushings.

 

[voiddweller]

Yeah I went out and found all the attachments and greased them up. Couldn't find much play in anything at all, however I haven't had time to jack the wheels up and do the 6/12 & 3/9 test.. Hopefully can do that sometime tomorrow when i do the plugs/wires.

 

[voiddweller]

That's your sway bar, and no, it shouldn't be affecting your steering or causing your wobble. You could take that thing off completely and all you'd notice is a little more body roll when you turn hard.

To check for worn steering/alignment parts, jack each front wheel into the air one at a time and try and shake it - if you get wobble with your hands at 1200 and 600, that's generally a bad ball joint. Wobble with your hands at 300 and 900 is normally a bad tie rod end. Bad wheel bearings and worn a-arm bushings can also cause wobble and steering weirdness, and are also pretty easy to test for.

How do I go about testing for wheel bearings and a warn a-arm?

 

[KidVermicious]

A arms are easy. Grab at the ball joints and push towards the front and rear of the truck. Watch and feel for play.

Wheel bearings are a little harder, because even a worn out wheel bearing won't have play if everything else is tight. I like to pull the hub and grab the spindle and wiggle it - if it moves and the steering knuckle doesn't, then it could be a bad bearing.

 

[voiddweller]

So just an update for those who were nice enough to help make suggestions of things going on with this new 2nd gen purchase I made. I figured I'd end up having to fix some things on it..

The steering wobble and free-play was the Pittman Arm and Idler Arm. There were some blown bushings as well. I got those replaced and now I'm steering with no free play in the wheel at all, and the wobbling is gone.

After I had had the clutch replaced at the mechanic when I got her home, I had noticed some coolant coming from the bell housing cover. I took it back up there and they tracked it down to the left rear head gasket.. Not a massive leak, very slow so I have a little time (I think) to make a choice on what I'll do with it. The mechanic (old family friend been in business for 40 years) said some stop leak will hold it off until I decide on what to do.

As far as the popping in 4wd while turning, but not in 2wd. That I found to be the CV joints. I am picking up two new ones and will be installing those tomorrow hopefully.

As far as the head gasket goes. That is way beyond my abilities. I am guessing the only options I have are to pay the high labor price and have it done professionally or just toss the extra money on top of it and throw in a rebuilt/reman engine. My thought is for 1000+ dollars a new gasket and the same old engine, OR throw another pile of money at it and have a new engine with 0 miles on it.. Any thoughts or ideas?

Thanks again for those who helped me get to the bottom of this stuff, its greatly appreciated.. Now all I have left is small things.. door locks, window slightly off-track, rear window switch replacement and removing the smoke odor from the previous owner (Gag).. Oh I also discovered that the spare tire holder under the rear end is broken off/missing.. So I'll need to do that also

 

[voiddweller]

Is there something I can do to fix the air conditioning making my ride sluggish when it's turned on?