Steering knocking sound on rocks only

[ohwilliam]

Sounds like worn tie rods. Easy way to check: jack up the front end and grasp the tire at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. If the tire wiggles from side to side, it's the tie rods. From top to bottom, ball joints (lower).

So I jacked up the front end and at the 3/9 o'clock positions there was play on the drivers side, and none on the passenger side. At the 12/6 positions there was 0 play on both tires.

So I had my dad wiggle the tire while I searched for what was loose and this is exactly where the problem is. Also I had him wiggle the tire when I held on to the steering wheel and it felt like the same knocking sensation I described originally.

The red arrow is exactly where there is play when I pinch thru the boot. That same boot on the passenger side has no wiggle room.

 

[turbo8]

So I jacked up the front end and at the 3/9 o'clock positions there was play on the drivers side, and none on the passenger side. At the 12/6 positions there was 0 play on both tires.

So I had my dad wiggle the tire while I searched for what was loose and this is exactly where the problem is. Also I had him wiggle the tire when I held on to the steering wheel and it felt like the same knocking sensation I described originally.

The red arrow is exactly where there is play when I pinch thru the boot. That same boot on the passenger side has no wiggle room.

Well that is your inner tie rod which you're pointing to. Also to the right of the boot there is a big nut, behind that is the steering rack guide bushing, that might be allowing some play too.

 

[gamefreakgc]

The steering rack guide is more for play in the steering wheel, a bad one wouldn't allow the tire to move (since the rack is designed to allow the steering rack to move horizontally but not vertically).

That would be your inner tie rod. Very common for those to get loose. If bad, there's some really good write-ups on here on how to replace. You should probably do the other side too since you'll need an alignment once it's done and no sense in waiting for the other to have play and then spend money on a second alignment.

I've been told there are ways to take it off without even taking off the outer tie rod (the longer part of the steering that connects to the lower ball join on your wheel) but not quite sure how.

 

[ohwilliam]

I guess I better start saving my nickels. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[Kanoe]

It's easy to check and see if the slip joint is the issues as others have said. I know it is my issue. Does anyone know if the part from the earlier years is interchangeable with the later years? Nobody with an early 3rd gen, like 96-97, ever seems to have this issue so maybe those years got a more robust part that doesn't do this. I'm not too keen on welding that joint, but the longer I drive the truck the more I want to so I can get rid of that slop. Maybe I can replace it with a different part though and avoid the welding.

I mentioned this in my post on page 1. When looking at the intermediate shaft on my 96 I found I do not have the slip joint. Far as I can see, 96 to part way through 97 had a one piece shaft that is easy to distinguish as it is a smaller diameter. Hence no sloppy slip joint. Forgive me if I am mistaken on this, but I think that is correct.

I had to source steering parts from a mid 97 and older to be compatible with mine.

As I mentioned, pull off the plastic shield inside behind the brake. 3 out of 4 I have looked at in the wreckers have some play in the U-joints here. I could for sure feel this play in the wheel.

 

[absalom]

Tl;dr ... play in the inner tie rod is usually worn rod end or out of adjustment steering rack guide. Consult your FSM to see how to properly adjust these- though I believe it's 18 ft lbs and then back off a quarter turn. Inner tie rod ends are affordable if you go 3rd party.