Steering Rack going out?

Qlaloo

New member
So just a heads up I'm a complete rookie when it comes to diagnosing problems on my 4R, it's my first vehicle and I'm learning as I go so bear with me. But thanks to the forums I've learned a lot! Thanks Everyone! I love this truck to death but I'm running into a problem just when I think I have everything fixed on it.

Background info: 2005 SR5 4WD V6 4Runner 181k+mi

I'm having a problem where every time I'm driving and hit a small bump on the road my steering wheel gives a jerk to the left. I've read some places that this is called "bump steer" sometimes, but I'm not 100% sure if that is my situation.
This becomes worse when I drive straight on dirt and gravel roads and I take my hands off the wheel and let the Runner roll and the steering wheel just turns off to the left turning the wheels as well. The steering wheel also has a loose feeling every time when I turn left but turning right feels as it should.
I know its not the tie rods or tires because I have just replaced both of them, new tie rods and new General Grabber AT2 tires. I've also just had my alignment done at a local shop recently so I don't think alignments the problem. Something I did find weird was when I jacked up the drivers side to check for play in ball joints and wheel bearings I didn't feel any play at all. But when I went to check for play in tie rods (3 & 9 position) my wheel was able to fully turn with such little amount of force as well as the steering wheel while the steering wheel was locked with the key out of the ignition.

Could it be that my steering rack is going out?

Thanks any help is appreciated
 
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This could be a lot of things. Rack and pinion , steering column joint, ball joints or bushings. movement of the steering spindle would cause a bump in your steering. Try to isolate it to which side and I do this by running over the reflectors in the road with my left side and then the right side. I try to see if there is a jump or different sound. You can also pull and pry each connection point on all the arms. We just need some more info
But it amazes me when alignment guys can't find the problem. People go in to fix things and they don't even tell you if things are wonky. Sad that they really don't try to check the things they are adjusting
 
So I ran over some of the reflectors on the road today like you recommended on both sides but I wasn't getting the same feedback that I get when I go over gravel roads or roads with a lot of grooves and bumps in them. I know for sure it's the front drivers side because when I turn the steering left it feels so loose and unresponsive. But if it were the ball joints wouldn't I be able to feel the play in it when I checked moving the wheel in the 12 & 6 position?

I'm off from work tomorrow so I'll try to film a video and post it on here so you can get an idea of what's going on.
 
For $20-30 you can get a front shop to do a complete inspection - they will tell you parts needed and any damage incurred. Well worth it if need a parts list and quote info for checking prices at other shops.

I'm doing mine a little while...
 
So I ran over some of the reflectors on the road today like you recommended on both sides but I wasn't getting the same feedback that I get when I go over gravel roads or roads with a lot of grooves and bumps in them. I know for sure it's the front drivers side because when I turn the steering left it feels so loose and unresponsive. But if it were the ball joints wouldn't I be able to feel the play in it when I checked moving the wheel in the 12 & 6 position?

I'm off from work tomorrow so I'll try to film a video and post it on here so you can get an idea of what's going on.

12-6 would check more if the wheel bearing is bad. 3-6 would check your inner outer tie rods. Are any of the ball joint boots blown? Upper ball joint try shaking the top of the spindle with no wheel. Use a or bar to check bottom. Pry bar the shock tower to each side of the uca and frame to lca bushing too.
 
12-6 would check more if the wheel bearing is bad. 3-6 would check your inner outer tie rods. Are any of the ball joint boots blown? Upper ball joint try shaking the top of the spindle with no wheel. Use a or bar to check bottom. Pry bar the shock tower to each side of the uca and frame to lca bushing too.

I'll give this a try first thing tomorrow and get back to you on it.
 
For $20-30 you can get a front shop to do a complete inspection - they will tell you parts needed and any damage incurred. Well worth it if need a parts list and quote info for checking prices at other shops.

I'm doing mine a little while...

Thanks for the info! If I can't figure it out I'll have to bring it in to get it checked out, since the alignment shop can't figure things out.
 
I literally just replaced my lower ball joints ( 20 minutes ago) because I had done the tie rods and was still having issues from the front drivers side. The passenger LBJ was OK, but the drivers was shot. After doing the 12 + 6 wheel shake it felt tight. After I got the old one out it moved in and out almost a half an inch, but there wasn't much side to side play. It was almost scary to drive down our windy hill. When turning to the right it was kinda dangerous. That's what started the replacing stuff. Tie rods helped some, but not as much as I thought they would. Feels great now though.
 
You can also pull and pry each connection point on all the arms.
1c.jpg
 
Yea the boot on the ball joint is bad on driver side, but that wouldn't be the problem would it?

I would start there because you have to replace that anyways. IF there isn't a smooth motion in the ball joint then it doesn't have to have any play. it will jerk just like a loose one. you can take it off and see and replace the boot. But if it is bad your gonna take it apart again.
 
can't really tell from the video. Try to check the play in that u joint by holding the upper shaft and the other hand on the lower joint. turn one side and see if the other side moves smoothly. Jiggle one side and see if it jiggles the same way on the other side. there should be no play in that joint because the shock is absorbed by the rag joint inside.
 
Okay I think it might be a wheel bearing. Something weird that happens is when I turn sharp left like making a U-turn my ABS kicks on and stops me for a little. I read that this is symptoms of a bad wheel bearing. Also I'm getting the "wwwrrrrr" noise when going left on a road, my guess is thats from all the weight from being on that side of the 4runner? Could my driver side wheel bearing be the cause of my problems?
[MENTION=2243]truckhigh[/MENTION]
 
Okay I think it might be a wheel bearing. Something weird that happens is when I turn sharp left like making a U-turn my ABS kicks on and stops me for a little. I read that this is symptoms of a bad wheel bearing. Also I'm getting the "wwwrrrrr" noise when going left on a road, my guess is thats from all the weight from being on that side of the 4runner? Could my driver side wheel bearing be the cause of my problems?
[MENTION=2243]truckhigh[/MENTION]

Ever solve??
 
Ever solve??


So my problem was alignment issues and an uncentered steering rack. So everything was out of wack. Wheel bearings weren’t the issue. And I ended up unplugging my traction control underneath the hood so it wouldn’t kick on all the time.
 
So my problem was alignment issues and an uncentered steering rack. So everything was out of wack. Wheel bearings weren’t the issue. And I ended up unplugging my traction control underneath the hood so it wouldn’t kick on all the time.

An unfettered steering rack? Do you mean bushings went out?
 

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