steering rack replacement issues. need parts

[yotatake2]

I'm currently in the process of replacing my steering rack and murphy's law is right behind every corner of this swap. First of all my steering coupler is stuck on the spline of the old steering rack. I still haven't tried a pitman puller or press but if anybody has suggestions of how to get it off without using those, that would be great.
Secondly, my pressure line is toast. I know I'll need to buy a new one from autozone unless anyone has better suggestions. I also, however, managed to bend the last bit of hard line on the return line that connects directly to the rack. It's a couple inches of hard line with the fitting attached to it. I can't seem to find it anywhere. Any place that sells the return line just sells the long hard line with the soft lines at the ends, not that last bit of hard line with the fitting. Does anyone know where I could find that part, or would it just be cheaper to get it made?
thanks

 

[JayRolla]

I'm currently in the process of replacing my steering rack and murphy's law is right behind every corner of this swap. First of all my steering coupler is stuck on the spline of the old steering rack. I still haven't tried a pitman puller or press but if anybody has suggestions of how to get it off without using those, that would be great.
Secondly, my pressure line is toast. I know I'll need to buy a new one from autozone unless anyone has better suggestions. I also, however, managed to bend the last bit of hard line on the return line that connects directly to the rack. It's a couple inches of hard line with the fitting attached to it. I can't seem to find it anywhere. Any place that sells the return line just sells the long hard line with the soft lines at the ends, not that last bit of hard line with the fitting. Does anyone know where I could find that part, or would it just be cheaper to get it made?
thanks

When I did my rack I thought the couple was bolted on, just pulled the nut off and it was able to come off the spline? I cant remember but that was not that hard.

I also damaged my pressure line. They are expensive. Your looking at $200 or more at auto parts store and like $500 oem. Give or take. I actually got my line from a member parting out 4runners in the classified for like $75, im sure there are some in there now being parted out. You could also get the hard line from the classified. Good luck.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Try Napa for the pressure line. There's is about the same price as it is at Autozone or oreilleys (about $150). I don't know if their's is any better than the cheapo;s, but I know that the one I got from oreilley's is total crap.

 

[1985taylor1925]

Ive changed my rack three times, literally. Two remanufactured units (enormous waste of time and money) followed by my current Safari LTD rack. I had no idea the lines were that expensive! Im glad I didn't ruin mine in the process.

As mentioned, your best bet would be to get the line(s) from a salvaged truck. Im sure you could find them here on the classifieds. Theres always someone parting out a truck here.

As far as you steering coupler being stuck, I don't see why you would need anything more than penetrating oil and a hammer to get it off. Mine was stuck the first time I changed my rack, due to rust. Loosen the bolt, let penetrating oil soak in for a day, drop the rack down a bit to put pressure on that joint, and then use a flat head or whatever else you can fit up there and lightly tap up on the intermediate unit. Theres no reason it shouldn't come apart. I do think its important to have the rack loose with gravity pulling it down. That pressure in the joint will help the joint come apart. Just don't let the rack fall on you


Edit: When you do get to the step of screwing the lines into the new rack, go about it very carefully. Ive had some issues with the in line. I installed my new rack back in October. The return line went in no problem. I was basically able to screw it in by hand until it got snug, which is how it should be. The feed line on the other hand felt stiff the whole way going in. I unscrewed it and didn't see any issues with the threads on the line. I am hoping and praying that I didn't strip the threads in the brand new rack. I had to tighten that line several times after driving the truck as it was leaking. Its like it didn't want to to seat and seal properly like the return line did. After getting it tight, the truck was fine for several months. And then three weeks ago I pulled into my driveway with the pump whining, and all my power steering fluid drained out from that line. I re-tightened it, refilled the fluid, and its been fine since. But Im afraid it will continue to give me issues. Again, just make sure your threads are clean and be cautions when placing those lines. Make sure you tighten to the proper tq specs (don't remember what they are, but you can find them in the maintenance section here). And then run the truck and make sure the lines aren't leaking before put everything back together. Its a pain getting a wrench in place to tighten those lines once everything is back in place

 

[sterbenlicht]

If you're talking about the part I think you're talking about with the small piece of line that transfers over to your new rack that you bent, then it's supposed to be bent. It might help to have a picture, but unless you're sure you bent it even more, don't worry about it having an angle to it immediately after it exits the nut that threads into the rack.

As for the joint being stuck to the rack, just make sure the nut is removed, spray it down with some PB or whatever, let it soak a while, then get a short pry bar and a hammer and it should start to work its way off. They're stubborn, but it'll come off. It's easier to have the rack out of the truck completely to do it. Once it's off, try to clean up the splines inside that coupler with anything you can as well as the splines on the shaft. It'll make the job way easier when you're putting things back together if it'll slide on without fighting you. After you've gotten your new rack in and the lines attached, the last thing you want is another murphy's law situation where you can't get the coupler back together. Morale in the garage or driveway starts to drop significantly at times like that haha.

 

[yotatake2]

Ive changed my rack three times, literally. Two remanufactured units (enormous waste of time and money) followed by my current Safari LTD rack. I had no idea the lines were that expensive! Im glad I didn't ruin mine in the process.

As mentioned, your best bet would be to get the line(s) from a salvaged truck. Im sure you could find them here on the classifieds. Theres always someone parting out a truck here.

Thanks for all the help guys. Nissanh was kind enough to sell me his pressure line for a great price. I found the return outlet at the dealer for as reasonable a price as you can get from a stealership and I'm gunna try my hand at the coupler again on Wednesday.

Phil, i can't seem to find the safari steering rack on their website. It shows an ad for it there but when i click it, it doesn't redirect to anywhere. I looked around and found it runs about 550. I'm gunna stick with the BMA one for now cuz it's cheaper and I don't think i can return it anyway, but the Safari one is definitely worth looking into later on when I go long travel. Is it better than the factory one in any way?

thanks again!

 

[1985taylor1925]

Thanks for all the help guys. Nissanh was kind enough to sell me his pressure line for a great price. I found the return outlet at the dealer for as reasonable a price as you can get from a stealership and I'm gunna try my hand at the coupler again on Wednesday.

Phil, i can't seem to find the safari steering rack on their website. It shows an ad for it there but when i click it, it doesn't redirect to anywhere. I looked around and found it runs about 550. I'm gunna stick with the BMA one for now cuz it's cheaper and I don't think i can return it anyway, but the Safari one is definitely worth looking into later on when I go long travel. Is it better than the factory one in any way?

thanks again!

The Safari rack is built with metal bushings (I believe brass) as opposed to the nylon bushing in the oem rack. I believe the main cause of all the common issues with the oem rack are due to the nylon bushing wearing out. The tight tolerance is lost as the bushing wear out allowing too much slop in the rack. Safari basically claims their rack is stronger and will last longer. To order you just have to call them. And if you do, tell them youre a member of the forum, and ask for a discount. They initially told me the price was like 525. I ended up getting it for 475.

 

[yotatake2]

The Safari rack is built with metal bushings (I believe brass) as opposed to the nylon bushing in the oem rack. I believe the main cause of all the common issues with the oem rack are due to the nylon bushing wearing out. The tight tolerance is lost as the bushing wear out allowing too much slop in the rack. Safari basically claims their rack is stronger and will last longer. To order you just have to call them. And if you do, tell them youre a member of the forum, and ask for a discount. They initially told me the price was like 525. I ended up getting it for 475.

Sweet! thanks Phil. i hope they're still around by the time I can afford LT lol

 

[Brveagle]

My steering coupler was also seized on. Tried heat, tried pb blaster, tried a pry bar. NO luck.

Placed entire rack in my harbor freight press, and it popped out with a loud bang after a couple of pumps.

If you have a buddy with a press, make it happen and you'll be suprised how easy it is.

 

[yotatake2]

My steering coupler was also seized on. Tried heat, tried pb blaster, tried a pry bar. NO luck.

Placed entire rack in my harbor freight press, and it popped out with a loud bang after a couple of pumps.

If you have a buddy with a press, make it happen and you'll be suprised how easy it is.

Yup, that's exactly what i did . Luckily i used to work at a shop with that same harbor freight press. That thing is a piece of shit but it gets the job done haha. But i removed the whole gear assembly since i was replacing the rack anyway so it made it alot easier to deal with in the press.

I actually have another question for you guys. Everything is all buttoned up and in place but my steering actually feels worse than before. It feels like the truck want's to go anywhere but straight. I checked and adjusted the toe and it should be good now but the steering still feels very sloppy. I'm thinking its the rubber bushings in the new rack and i ordered a set of polyurethane ones to replace them, but should the rubber ones be that bad when they're brand new? I had my brother turn the wheel and i checked the rack and there's a good quarter inch of side to side play in the rack. Think the bushings will fix that?