Steering wheel and car shake

Duke562

New member
92k miles 2011 sr5 ,
[email protected]
Rear toytec 2.
Spc uppers

New tie rods , rotors and pads, and end links

If I firmly press the brake pedal it shakes the wheel and you can feel a large vibration (it might be in my head but it feels more driver side )

Any ideas ,
I haven't checked under to see the lower control arm bushings if maybe that's it
 
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92k miles 2011 sr5 ,
[email protected]
Rear toytec 2.
Spc uppers

New tie rods , rotors and pads, and end links

If I firmly press the brake pedal it shakes the wheel and you can feel a large vibration (it might be in my head but it feels more driver side )

Any ideas ,
I haven't checked under to see the lower control arm bushings if maybe that's it

Sounds like the rotors are warped.
 
Wheel bearings?

Also, just because the rotors are new doesn't mean they are true. You may have to put them on a lathe for a "light" resurfacing.
 
Did it shake before you did all this work? If it did, is it worse or better or no change. A little more information would be helpful. Sounds like a warped rotor but you would really feel that in the brake pedal.
 
I am with you guys on the rotors as well. Very typical of a slightly warped rotor when applying pressure.
 
I started know anything it when I put the spider TraX wheel spacers on I since remove the wheel spacers hoping that the shake would go away but it still is there I don't necessarily feel it in the pedal pedal the steering column and vehicle. Also the tires are true and balanced
 
Last edited:
Been down that path, having the toe in adjusted to max (.15IIRC) on both sides seems to have cured my highway speed and braking vibration.

My initial troubleshooting was exactly the path outlined above, some of it helped but nothing close to the toe settings.

I have not this adjustment for more then a few hundred miles so I can not comment on tire wear only to say " My alignment is still within Toyota Specs"
 
Like others have said....rotors. We had this same exact issue with our Tundra. Changed the pads and the vibration was still happening. Then changed the rotors and everything was smooth sailing
 
before you install the new rotors the hub assy must be cleaned wire brushed rust removed etc.... any crap on the hub will cause this problem.


If for some reason the calipers/brake pads are binding this will also do this. calipers should slide with not too much force. pads should pop in with no tools .. cal slide pins require a pink silicone slide pin brake grease not a petroleum based grease.
 
What brand pads and rotors did you install (cheap rotors and pads can sometimes result in premature "warping"), did you also follow the "bed-in" instructions regarding the correct procedure on breaking the pads in? Failure to do so may have "warped" the rotors prematurely and will require new pads and turning the rotors.
 
I cannot
remember what brand but I got the "oem" equivalent at
Pep boys for pads And rotors

What's the procedure for breaking in the pads ?
 
I cannot
remember what brand but I got the "oem" equivalent at
Pep boys for pads And rotors

What's the procedure for breaking in the pads ?

when installing new rotors they must be washed with some de greasing solvent. I use low odor mineral spirits. I also use some 220 sand paper and sand down/scratch the rotor surface in a circular direction. creates small scratches that help seat the pads quickly. wipe off the rotor after the sanding with the solvent so its clean.

then you do light braking for like 30 times ... too hard braking when first installed creates hot spots then the distortions..

I was impressed with my 2016 ,,, brake rotors did have these circular scratches on the rotor surface.
 
Worth replacing rotors ? Also the rear rotors have never been replaced since 60k that I know of (when I purchased )


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