Steering wheel shake at 50 - 60 MPH.

Had this between 50-60 on my 21 pro. Got it balanced at dealer got better but still there. Reduced my tire psi from 33 to 32. Its about 95 percent gone. Some shakes is understandable due to offroad tire


Does anyone else feel a difference with different air pressure? I had been running 35-36 in search of fuel mileage and the shaking was pretty bad. Dropped it to around 33-34 with not much difference. I'll try the recommended 32 and see if that helps.


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I recently bought a 2021 ORPrem and have the same issue with a slight shake/shimmy around 60mph and it pulled right. The dealer delivered the vehicle with 55psi in the Dunlop tires and that’s what I think I didn’t notice it on the way home.
I bought it from a dealer 2hrs out of town so the selling dealer had me take it to a local dealer and they performed a balance and alignment. Alignment was actually slightly out too. It seemed fine on the way home but came back the following day. Took it back to the dealer I brought it from had the service manager drive it said it drove great… I then drove it with him to point out the issue and he saw what I meant. Basically he said it’s such a slight issue it would be hard to warranty unless it got worse, he recommended to do nothing and was going to research for a tsb…. Thoughts ?


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2021 TRD Pro

My 2021 TRD Pro was fine and had no vibration. Took it in for 5k miles service, the tires were rotated, and now i have a vibration right around 55-62 mph. Still on stock tires.
 
I recently bought a 2021 ORPrem and have the same issue with a slight shake/shimmy around 60mph and it pulled right. The dealer delivered the vehicle with 55psi in the Dunlop tires and that’s what I think I didn’t notice it on the way home.
I bought it from a dealer 2hrs out of town so the selling dealer had me take it to a local dealer and they performed a balance and alignment. Alignment was actually slightly out too. It seemed fine on the way home but came back the following day. Took it back to the dealer I brought it from had the service manager drive it said it drove great… I then drove it with him to point out the issue and he saw what I meant. Basically he said it’s such a slight issue it would be hard to warranty unless it got worse, he recommended to do nothing and was going to research for a tsb…. Thoughts ?


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I haven't noticed any vibrations on my 21 ORP, but just checked the stock Dunlop AT20 tires and they were also at 55 psi on mine. Thinking about lowering them down to 40-45 psi now though, but hope I don't get the vibrations. Not sure why the dealer would send the vehicle out with tires inflated higher than the max 51 psi listed on the tire itself.
 
I haven't noticed any vibrations on my 21 ORP, but just checked the stock Dunlop AT20 tires and they were also at 55 psi on mine. Thinking about lowering them down to 40-45 psi now though, but hope I don't get the vibrations. Not sure why the dealer would send the vehicle out with tires inflated higher than the max 51 psi listed on the tire itself.

Your tires should be 32-35 psi. They ship them stupid full for transit benefits.
 
Your tires should be 32-35 psi. They ship them stupid full for transit benefits.

Yeah after I posted that I started digging around and saw where they inflate them to 55 psi for shipping reasons. Honestly not even something I thought about, so glad I saw this thread on here. I ended up lowering them down last night to around 38 psi.
 
I haven't noticed any vibrations on my 21 ORP, but just checked the stock Dunlop AT20 tires and they were also at 55 psi on mine. Thinking about lowering them down to 40-45 psi now though, but hope I don't get the vibrations. Not sure why the dealer would send the vehicle out with tires inflated higher than the max 51 psi listed on the tire itself.


Bad or cheap gauge. The large diameter (3”) Slime gauges with the release valve button on the side will NOTORIOUSLY read low. Dangerously low. Smaller ones work fine and are in-line with digital meter readings.


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Rotate and re-tourque

I've had plenty of shake problems with several tire swaps over the years - in both 4th and 5th gen tires. With some tires - it's roadforce that fixes it. I had two times when several tires in brand new sets were so far out of spec that Nokia took them back and I eventually bought a set of Coopers, road force and Toyota tech balance - smooth as silk.

My AT 20s were fine the first year, had a hell of time with a set of Hankook Winter Xs - finally found one waaaay out of spec and replaced - all fine. When I had my winters swapped back to the AT 20s - shake at 62-64. Thought it was all kinds of problems. Had them rebalanced, nothing changed. I rotated front to back and re-torqued to spec. Smooth as silk. It was tough getting the lug nuts off even with a 1/2 Dewalt corded impact. I've read elsewhere that too much torque can effect the rotors. I also think I may have one wheel, not quite right and when its on the front - shimmy. Road force fixed it for the winters, keeping it on the back worked in this situation but I do believe the right torque and tire pressure make a big difference. Kind of conjecture but I am "one with my vehicle" and that's my thoughts!

Elsewhere posted - the notorious front diff/axle problem - took 9 months and 5K to rectify - 2 front diffs and an axle but with the wheels balanced and torqued and the reportedly reconfigured front diff - she's like new and I'm finally loving it!
 
is replacing the needle bearing the only fix?

Hello - I've lurked here for a while, but this is my first post to the forum. I have been dealing with the exact same issue as everyone else has posted here.

My 4Runner is a 2016 Trail edition. Bone stock except for 2.5" lift, Method wheels and 285/70-17 BFG AT's.

I've tried the same things most others have tried to get rid of the steering wheel vibration - different tires (multiple brands and even different sizes, different tire pressures), different wheels, multple shops for alignment and tire balancing. Sometimes is seems to help for a little while and then it comes back.

Reading through the thread, it looks like several owners have eliminated the problem by replacing the driver's side needle bearing at the front diff. with a bushing from East Coast Gear Supply. I've done business with them before for another vehicle and their products and service were top notch. But it doesn't seem like a good idea to replace a needle bearing with a bushing. I'm not saying it's not a good fix - I just have some concerns. Has anyone found another solution to this problem? Like a properly sized needle bearing?
 
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I've had this issue for a few months and new tires are road force balance took care of 85% of the issue, but it still happens. I think I'm at the point where the next step is replacing the LCAs. Does anyone know who makes a KDSS compatible LCA? TC is the only company I've found so far, and I'm wondering if anyone has some experience with their Expedition Series LCAs? If they weren't quite so expensive I'd of jumped on it.
 
I've had this issue for a few months and new tires are road force balance took care of 85% of the issue, but it still happens. I think I'm at the point where the next step is replacing the LCAs. Does anyone know who makes a KDSS compatible LCA? TC is the only company I've found so far, and I'm wondering if anyone has some experience with their Expedition Series LCAs? If they weren't quite so expensive I'd of jumped on it.

Why do you think replacing the LCA's will solve the vibration issue?
 
ECGS bushing fixed it!

I wanted to post up my experience with replacing the driver-side front CV chaft needle bearing with the East Coast Gear Supply clamshell bushing

Link: TOYOTA 8" CLAMSHELL CV AXLE BUSHING

I ordered the bushing, seal and all the ECGS tools. Everything worked exactly like it was supposed to and exactly like the install videos show. Best part - after 2+ years of dealing with the front-end/steering wheel "shimmy", countless tire rebalancing, rotating and multiple sets of tires, that shake is finally completely GONE!
 
I wanted to post up my experience with replacing the driver-side front CV chaft needle bearing with the East Coast Gear Supply clamshell bushing

Link: TOYOTA 8" CLAMSHELL CV AXLE BUSHING

I ordered the bushing, seal and all the ECGS tools. Everything worked exactly like it was supposed to and exactly like the install videos show. Best part - after 2+ years of dealing with the front-end/steering wheel "shimmy", countless tire rebalancing, rotating and multiple sets of tires, that shake is finally completely GONE!

Just did this bushing install on our 2014 SR5. Not lifted and no groaning sound, but some shimmy. Given that we have 310K miles on the truck, ECGS suggested we do it as a precautionary measure. Paid my local Mechanic $200 to install and change the lube. I’ll be driving it next week.
 
Just did this bushing install on our 2014 SR5. Not lifted and no groaning sound, but some shimmy. Given that we have 310K miles on the truck, ECGS suggested we do it as a precautionary measure. Paid my local Mechanic $200 to install and change the lube. I’ll be driving it next week.

update on your experience?
 

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