Still Overheating (Passed block test)

As Jeremy said, I'd suspect it is not OEM and while to the naked eye in a cursory glance it may look like such, it probably isn't. And the difference in pitch, thickness of the blades, etc. can make the difference. I helped a friend of my brother replace one in a Silverado a couple of years ago (with a Dorman I think) due to a crack in the base that attached to the water pump. Then his truck would run warmer than before (but didn't overheat). It turns out the Dorman's blades were about 3/8" shorter than OEM, and the pitch of the blade wasn't as great as the OEM, thus not moving as much air. $40 at the junkyard for a used OEM one and he was good to go. This may NOT be the problem, but it sounds like the fan cannot move enough air across the radiator and the clutch may be taxed to its limit.

To save yourself some money go to a junkyard (Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market) and find a fan from a 98. They may be compatible with other years (96-97, 99-02).

I take it before you broke the fan blade there wasn't an overheating problem.
 
Op, you have 37K on your timing belt and water pump to date. Obviously it's overheating now, but, was it overheating during the 37K?
What was the last thing you changed before it overheated?
 
The Full story on every time my truck has overheated:
2 years ago I was Wheeling and I crossed water and I broke a fan blade.
A week before this, I had crossed water that caused a misfire that went away after 10 minutes.
The engine was vibrating due to the broken fan blade and I thought it was a misfire like the week before.
I continued wheeling (moderate sand/gravel trails, normal temp).
I grossed some brush and it tore the rusty line to my rear heater.
My coolant drained and I overheated.
I filled it with river water and crimped the broken lines-got it to the trail head without getting too hot.

I did not overheat again for 7 months.
I was at a different trail in the mountains, heading up a steep (but not ridiculous) trailand I noticed it starting to get hot. I shut her down for 20 minutes, and finished the steep section- then wheeled the rest of the day on less steep sections with no overheating. Drove home an hour with no overheating.
***The caveat is that I had gone up this section before without overheating (for further clarification- it was 3 months before this episode, but still after the day the fan blade broke)
***To further complicate, when I did this trail without overheating, it may have been a much colder day with the heat on, which may make this "control" less definitive

I drove all summer and wheeled other places without over heating.
I went back to this trail in the fall and overheated in the exact same spot!!


After this, I decided not to wheel until further notice (Breaks my heart).
Which brings us to this summer and the first time I over heated when not wheeling!
I was in traffic with the AC on and I smelt coolant. Gauge was headed to the red and I got tout t check the overflow- to see it was bubbling and overflowing.

I drove for 2 weeks without the AC on and did not have a problem once.
Shortly after, I began to notice it getting hot at the end of my daily 45 minute commute- seemingly only when in traffic on hot days (after about 40 minutes of driving)

I am not sure if all of this info is relevant, but I wanted to share the full history. This covers every time I have overheated.
 
I went out and bought a temp gun last night. Where do you suggest that I take readings? I will go out and get readings under normal operating temperature, and then I will get readings next time it gets hot as well.

Also, while I'm keeping an eye on things...What kind of reading should I get, what would be normal?
 
I'd check top and bottom radiator hose. Don't know the temps but the bottom should be cooler than the top. I'm assuming. Not sure how the coolant system flows on these engines.
 
Last edited:
the1998sr5 said:
...

Also, while I'm keeping an eye on things...What kind of reading should I get, what would be normal?
Click to expand...

What kind of water temps did you say it reaches when it overheats? What are you reading them with?

The new radiator cap is 16lbs? :cowboy:
 
I just bought the temp gun last night, no readings yet.
I'll report back on this.

My radiator cap is from Toyota, I gave them my VIN and they gave me the cap so a assume it is the correct one, also brand new.
 
With an Extech temp gun (far from the best), 85 degrees with 75% humidity, AC on in F:

Upper hose: 175
Lower hose: 120
Overflow container: 115

It probably isn't your fan. Possibly an obstruction in the cooling system somewhere. You may want to have a shop with a machine flush the system.
 
the1998sr5 said:
I just bought the temp gun last night, no readings yet.
I'll report back on this.

My radiator cap is from Toyota, I gave them my VIN and they gave me the cap so a assume it is the correct one, also brand new.
Click to expand...

Not gun temps, radiator temps via something like torque or similar apps where it works in real time. Others may have different definitions of overheating but I'd say 210 and climbing is about it. What does yours measure at its peak?
 
I just drove around town, (No highway) mostly stop and go for 1/2 hr on my lunch break... I took two readings in 5 minute intervals (wasn't able to get it to overheat from the perspective of the needle on the dash gauge moving out of its sweet spot):
After 25 minutes:
top hose 204, bottom 175
After 30 minutes: top hose 198, bottom hose 180

This is with a gun from harbor freight. Not the most expensive one in the world- but should do the job!
 
That seems too hot. I'm yet to see my 4Runner climb above 180* (that's with a 160* thermostat though for the supercharger) at that's at the temp sensor which is on the engine. That means your engine is hitting 200+ almost constantly if the radiator hoses are that hot.

There's something bigger and more crucial going on here. You wouldn't also happen to have access to a bluetooth code reader and have a smartphone or a scangauge would you? Torque app works great since it lets you view data taken from the major sensors in the engine.
 
the1998sr5 said:
I just drove around town, (No highway) mostly stop and go for 1/2 hr on my lunch break... I took two readings in 5 minute intervals (wasn't able to get it to overheat from the perspective of the needle on the dash gauge moving out of its sweet spot):
After 25 minutes:
top hose 204, bottom 175
After 30 minutes: top hose 198, bottom hose 180

This is with a gun from harbor freight. Not the most expensive one in the world- but should do the job!
Click to expand...
I have never checked with a temp gun, but I would guess those are normal, to be expected temps. at least the top number.

I would suspect the bottom to be a bit lower than that. indicating that you are in fact removing heat from the coolant.
I still say its an airflow issue.

gamefreakgc said:
That seems too hot. I'm yet to see my 4Runner climb above 180* (that's with a 160* thermostat though for the supercharger) at that's at the temp sensor which is on the engine. That means your engine is hitting 200+ almost constantly if the radiator hoses are that hot.

There's something bigger and more crucial going on here. You wouldn't also happen to have access to a bluetooth code reader and have a smartphone or a scangauge would you? Torque app works great since it lets you view data taken from the major sensors in the engine.
Click to expand...
a coolant temp right around 200 degrees is normal.
 
If I can get a code reader for a decent price (heard a lot about scanguage) I'm willing to do so. I do not own one now. I have a smartphone, but it is on its last leg (really cant download apps- long story).

Another forum member mentioned my trans could be heating up my radiator. Most people I've spoken to say that's a long shot- but where could I aim my temp gun to get a good reading on internal trans temp?

Also, one other forum member suggested my heater control valve (boy wouldn't that be convenient- its right on top of the firewall!)
Does anyone have input on whether its worth replacing?
 
I filled it with river water and crimped the broken lines-got it to the trail head without getting too hot
Click to expand...

This could be part of the problem. River water isn't clean. Most is also high in mineral content and even heat cycling it for a bit could cause mineral build up in coolant channels.

After everything you've replaced it's a long shot, but could contribute to the problem.
 
the1998sr5 said:
If I can get a code reader for a decent price (heard a lot about scanguage) I'm willing to do so. I do not own one now. I have a smartphone, but it is on its last leg (really cant download apps- long story).

Another forum member mentioned my trans could be heating up my radiator. Most people I've spoken to say that's a long shot- but where could I aim my temp gun to get a good reading on internal trans temp?

Also, one other forum member suggested my heater control valve (boy wouldn't that be convenient- its right on top of the firewall!)
Does anyone have input on whether its worth replacing?
Click to expand...

I just ordered my ScangeGuage2 from Advanced Auto Parts for 111.19... used a discount code and got $48 off. free ship and no tax.

"Save 30% off all orders in addition to rebates with code TRT30" - from google

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...rans&utm_campaign=shipped&utm_content=general
 
My thoughts:
1) After you got the new radiator fixed, may be some sludge/dirt got circulated and may have clogged the top openings in the core

2) Is your AC condenser air ways are clogged? Did you blast high pressure water from inside of the engine to outside to clean any derbies? (Cover your alternator with a plastic bag and do it when the engine is cold. Also apply water 90 degrees to the cooling fins)

3) May be the fan inside the water pump came loose from the axle and is not pumping water at the proper rate. (did you use an OEM water pump)

4) Remove the thermostat and run and see how it goes. Again is your thermostat OEM, and new? Mine is about 15 years old and still good.
 
Thanks.

My thermostat is brand new and OEM.
Although I did not blast my AC condenser or my Radiator, they both look clean. I can see right through the condenser.
 
I use the ScanGage II, and I like it a lot. I have mine set to display fuel economy, IAT, water temp, and voltage, and it's a lot nicer to see real readings instead of just a meaningless mark on a gage. It's also nice to be able to instantly read a code, so I know if it's something I need to deal with immediately, or something that isn't a big deal.

Just to add some data, my readings (from the ECU) fluctuate between 184 and 188 degrees. No higher, and no lower once its warmed up. It's worth noting that the resolution of the reading is 2 degrees. You never see odd numbers. Same with IAT.
 
I love my Scangauge as well. I like being able to get pretty accurate current data instantaneously. For having a 99 I get to see my ATF temp as well.

I get both odd and even number readings.

Post your coolant (ECT) temp when you can.

The coolant isn't being cooled enough through the radiator. Is it because the radiator despite being new is clogged or is the fan and/or its accessories not working correctly? That is what needs to be answered.
 
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