stock suspension
- Thread starter Footofgod
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If you want oem fitment, go to your local parts store and get replacement parts. You don't need anything high dollar for an oem type setup. I would however recommend some lift. If you're wanting to play on the trails and go off roading you will want some ground clearance. Some people will argue that lower is better, higher is better... it's all a matter of personal preference. But just about everyone who has an off roader will have at least some lift. 1-2" with slightly over sized tires would be a good starter.
Footofgod
New member
Lift doesn't give me any ground clearance though. I already have 31's and while I would like to go to 33's at some point, I don't see it happening soon. I would like an improved ride vs. OEM.
Hyde802
New member
Larger tires also help you roll over objects easier. And you can still fit 33s with a stock suspension. I would however, heavily invest in some armor.
As for the original question, brace your idler arm, besides that, as long as you grease everything regularly , should be fine.
Also might want to look into a IFS truss.
Edit: Another thought...Could do ball joint spacers then turn them back down to stock height. Will give you softer ride and a little more flex.
As for the original question, brace your idler arm, besides that, as long as you grease everything regularly , should be fine.
Also might want to look into a IFS truss.
Edit: Another thought...Could do ball joint spacers then turn them back down to stock height. Will give you softer ride and a little more flex.
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Footofgod
New member
Educate me please. What does either do to improve ride or upgrade suspension?
Why brace the idler arm?
What is a truss?
Hyde802
New member
The factory idler arms wear out quickly due to having poor bushings. The 3 options are keep replacing idler arms, get some 4Crawler brass bushing or get brace it, Like this one from NWOR. Or total chaos makes one for about $350.
Toyota Truck Steering Components, Steering Stabilizers, IFS Idler Truss, Torque Rod Bracket, Bushing Set, Sway Bar Disconnect (scrolly down)
The truss braces the rear part of the IFS subframe to stop it from tweaking.
LCengineering makes a weld in one, Sonoran Steel makes a bolt in one. If you ever have to remove the front diff, youll wish you had the bolt in one.
http://www.sonoransteel.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_11&products_id=25
Neither will improve the ride, they will just make it last longer.
Toyota Truck Steering Components, Steering Stabilizers, IFS Idler Truss, Torque Rod Bracket, Bushing Set, Sway Bar Disconnect (scrolly down)
The truss braces the rear part of the IFS subframe to stop it from tweaking.
LCengineering makes a weld in one, Sonoran Steel makes a bolt in one. If you ever have to remove the front diff, youll wish you had the bolt in one.
http://www.sonoransteel.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_11&products_id=25
Neither will improve the ride, they will just make it last longer.
BucknutBob
New member
Just curious why you think you won't gain any additional clearance with a lift? True, your rear axle won't change except with tires, but up front your diff is attached to the frame, so a 2" lift like OME gains you two inches of clearance under the front end. The rear axle, being solid, helps compensate by lifting as the tires go up, something the IFS doesn't do very well; therefore, the important thing is to get more room under the front. The taller lifts counteract these gains by lowering the components and adding a front crossmember, but not so with a simpler 2" lift. OME also goes to great pains to give their applications good ride quality, as well. Just food for thought.
It depends what you want to do with the truck. We wanted to make it more stable at speed and improve it's road manners. I did the following to our 1990 4runner V6 auto:
1)new ball joints(upper and lower)
2)rebush front control arms with urethane bushings
3)sway bar bushings and link bushings replaced with urethane
4)Sway-a-Way torsion bars 25mm
5)MOOG 225 rear coil springs
6)factory replacement shocks all round
7)motor and trans mounts replaced
8)rear lateral and control arm bushings replaced with urethane
9)steering stabilizer replaced with KYB unit
10)center steering link done by Toyota(recall)
11)cleaned and repacked front wheel bearings
12)new Michelin tires
This is all that comes to mind now, but I'm sure there is a bit more.
regards
1)new ball joints(upper and lower)
2)rebush front control arms with urethane bushings
3)sway bar bushings and link bushings replaced with urethane
4)Sway-a-Way torsion bars 25mm
5)MOOG 225 rear coil springs
6)factory replacement shocks all round
7)motor and trans mounts replaced
8)rear lateral and control arm bushings replaced with urethane
9)steering stabilizer replaced with KYB unit
10)center steering link done by Toyota(recall)
11)cleaned and repacked front wheel bearings
12)new Michelin tires
This is all that comes to mind now, but I'm sure there is a bit more.
regards
I've been pretty happy with the combination of KYB Gas-a-justs and Moog replacement coils for stock height replacement. The comfort factor could probably be a little better, but the handling is like night and day to the shocks that were on it (still original at 170k). Plus, it was pretty affordable. I don't really drive too extreme, but I take my rig on lots of washed out mountain trails and it does just fine. After 20k shocks seem to be holding up well.
