Straight Axel 4x4 instalation for 1997 4Runner

[CashTahoe]

Hello there,

I have a 1997 Toyota 4runner that I bought used. When I bought the truck it had been modified to a pre-runner setup in the front and the previous owner took out the 4x4. Besides the 4x4 taken out, the slip differential also seems to be taken out?

Other than the fact that the truck is no longer offroad capable, it is running great, and looks good too.

I want to re-instal a 4x4 in the truck and wanted to know if anyone has any good suggestions for what I should be looking for? Maybe a straight axle setup? Any feedback would be great. Would like to keep the budget below $1500 so any good suggestions would be awesome...

 

[KidVermicious]

Besides the 4x4 taken out, the slip differential also seems to be taken out?

Don't understand the question. The front differential IS the four wheel drive, are you talking about the transfer case?

Your previous owner probably pulled the 4wd because the CVs were in the way of his longtravel front suspension setup, and to save weight. It's plenty offroad capable right now, for sand bashing and light trails. The easiest way to add to that capability would be to put a locker in the rear. If you really need 4wd back, you're probably going to have to redo most of what the previous owner did. If he swapped the transmission for a 2wd unit without a transfer case, you'll need to find another transmission. Then you'll need a front driveshaft, front differential, CV shafts, and to figure out how to get those shafts past the coilovers, or uninstall that longtravel and go back to factory control arms.

Lotsa work. You'd do better to sell that truck to somebody who actually wants a prerunner setup, and buy a truck that has mods you actually want, next time.

 

[BucknutBob]

I would go along with KidV on this--it's a daunting task to change a 2WD to a 4WD. Also, there are people who would love a prerunner set-up, so that may be a second reason to keep it intact and sell as is, then put the profits into a 4x4. How much fabricating and wrench work are you willing or able to do, because $1500 is a tight budget for a full conversion, and nearly impossible if you have to pay for much labor. As much as you like this truck, I'd cut your losses and sell it outright, then look for a ready-built 4x4--there are PLENTY out there to choose from.

 

[renosauce]

what long travel kit does it have up front? what spindles are currently attched to it..take more pics and post em up...if its total chaos you can still run 4wd..just need to know whats missing. for under a grand you can get the long axle shafts and be up and running 4wd...
if not...i will buy that front suspension off you.

 

[fourwd1]

Really need more info. A solid axle swap may be a good solution, but only if the rest of the 4wd system is still intact.
If the PO removed it all for some crazy reason, what you have is a nice 2wd truck.

 

[CashTahoe]

Thank you everyone for your input! I really appreciate the feedback! I will take some photos of the current modifications and maybe someone has some good recommendations. It is running as a great 2wd truck but when it snows here in Tahoe it has the ability to get stuck in about 1' of snow spinning on just one tire.

 

[CashTahoe]

KidV- Thanks for the feedback. Putting a locker into the rear would be helpful. At the moment when I get stuck it just spins one tire. What do I need to do to have this done?

 

[4-Ripcord]

does.it.still.have.the.front.DIFF?

 

[Harleydoc]

Post up some pics of the front end and under the front so we can see what we working with

 

[BucknutBob]

KidV- Thanks for the feedback. Putting a locker into the rear would be helpful. At the moment when I get stuck it just spins one tire. What do I need to do to have this done?

It depends on what locker you get. Lighter-duty ones like the Lockright can be installed by a confident novice, with regular tools. More serious units like a Detroit require full differential disassembly, and specialty tools to measure the gaps and lash adjustments. For moderate wheeling, or rare hardcore runs, the lighter designs would probably be fine, and you could save a lot of money (both in parts and labor). Now, if you can afford it, a selectable locker is your best option, so you can shut off the locking function for slippery asphalt conditions--they're more expensive, and involve more to install, but they eliminate the quirks of full-time lockers (spinning tires on tight corners, drifting to the low side of the road on ice, etc.). It all depends on your intended use and your wallet.

 

[KidVermicious]

KidV- Thanks for the feedback. Putting a locker into the rear would be helpful. At the moment when I get stuck it just spins one tire. What do I need to do to have this done?

What Bob said. I'll add that if your greatest concern is snowy roads, a limited slip rear end would be ideal for you. A selectable locker always rocks, but is spendy. An automatic "lunchbox" locker you could install yourself would be the cheapest solution, but requires a compromise in how you drive the truck to compensate for the always-on locker.

A locker won't replace true 4wd though. The truck you have has been purpose-built for a very specific use. It's ideal for desert bashing, dune jumping, and going really fast on rough dirt and sand roads. To do that, the previous owner sacrificed some of it's utility in other areas, making it more like a sports car than a truck, and it sounds like what you want is a truck. I think you need to get over how "cool" it looks and sell it to somebody who wants a prerunner setup, and buy another truck with 4wd and mod it yourself to be exactly what YOU want. That'll be cheaper and easier to do with a stock truck than with the already-modified one you have now.

 

[JohnsD90]

It also looks like it has the 01+ taco front end

 

[Gerdo]

It may be hard to do a solid front axle for $1500. But if you find some good parts for cheap, it can be done. Especially if you sell off the long travel front suspension.

Look at this kit Tacoma Lift Kits | Toyota, Suzuki Samurai, and Jeep Off Road Parts

If the transfer case was taken out then you are into more costs. You should be able to find stock parts at a junk yard.

 

[CashTahoe]

What Bob said. I'll add that if your greatest concern is snowy roads, a limited slip rear end would be ideal for you. A selectable locker always rocks, but is spendy. An automatic "lunchbox" locker you could install yourself would be the cheapest solution, but requires a compromise in how you drive the truck to compensate for the always-on locker.

A locker won't replace true 4wd though. The truck you have has been purpose-built for a very specific use. It's ideal for desert bashing, dune jumping, and going really fast on rough dirt and sand roads. To do that, the previous owner sacrificed some of it's utility in other areas, making it more like a sports car than a truck, and it sounds like what you want is a truck. I think you need to get over how "cool" it looks and sell it to somebody who wants a prerunner setup, and buy another truck with 4wd and mod it yourself to be exactly what YOU want. That'll be cheaper and easier to do with a stock truck than with the already-modified one you have now.

Hey KidVermicious:
Thanks for your follow up. I was looking at slip differentials and I found the link below. Does this look like a good buy for my purposes? I think you understood correctly that I am just looking for a bit more traction on slippery surfaces and potentially going up dirt hills without relying on a single wheel spinning. With the locker setup, are the two back tires always spinning or can you turn it on or off?

Everyone on this forum is awesome for your great support! Thanks....

96-02 Toyota 4Runner Limited Slip Differentials from Powertrax at Andy's Auto Sport

 

[t4r4life]

i'll trade you my 4WD parts for your long travel parts.

 

[KidVermicious]

Hey KidVermicious:
Thanks for your follow up. I was looking at slip differentials and I found the link below. Does this look like a good buy for my purposes? I think you understood correctly that I am just looking for a bit more traction on slippery surfaces and potentially going up dirt hills without relying on a single wheel spinning. With the locker setup, are the two back tires always spinning or can you turn it on or off?

Everyone on this forum is awesome for your great support! Thanks....

96-02 Toyota 4Runner Limited Slip Differentials from Powertrax at Andy's Auto Sport

There's three ways to lock up your rear differential. The cheapest solution is to install a spool or weld the spider gears, which makes the differential not a differential any more. You'll always have power to both rear wheels, and you'll go through tires like crazy. Or you can spring for a selectable locker like an ARB or E-locker, which you can turn on and off with a switch. Or you can compromise on what's called an "automatic" locker. These are torque sensitive and only engage when a certain amount of torque is applied at the differential. At very light throttle levels, it acts like an open differential, and locks up when you give it more than a little gas. Some automatic lockers are fairly inexpensive and can be installed in your driveway, others are burlier and require a trained differential mechanic to install properly.

For your purposes, those are all overkill though. I think you're right that you want a limited slip. These work through either a gearing arrangement or clutchpacks to steal some power from a spinning wheel and transfer it to the other, but they never lock up solidly, hence "limited" slip. The one you linked is not a true limited-slip I don't think - try googling "Detroit TrueTrac". It's what I run in my front differential, and I chose it because it's not a clutch-type limited slip, so I don't need to worry about gear oil additive or rebuilding when the clutch packs wear out.

 

[BucknutBob]

With the locker setup, are the two back tires always spinning or can you turn it on or off?

I think KidV may have missed your new question--with lockers, there are two types, selectable and always-on. Units like the ARB and factory E-locker can be switched on and off as desired, using either air or electric. These are preferable for the reasons previously mentioned. With those like Detroit, Grizzly, etc., the locker is always on, although they are designed to disengage briefly when cornering on dry pavement. The problem with these is that on slippery surfaces, there isn't enough friction for the tires to make the locker disengage, so one tire tends to spin around tight corners, and on side-slopes, they can slowly work you to the low side. With practice, you can learn to compensate for these tendencies, allowing for maximum traction whenever you need it (I rarely use 4WD on trails, because the locker keeps me rolling, even over fairly rough terrain).

EDIT: Okay, so Kid was typing his reply at the same time I was doing mine...oops!

 

[fourwd1]

Detroit TruTrac is a decent locker, full Detroit is even stronger (but more $)
But ARBs rule, and are only a little more $ than full Detroit.