Straightening steering wheel after alignment

tpirman

New member
Haven't posted in a while and am going to give back to the community here in a bit with some pictures of my new wheels and tires, but for now I need some help.

I just got a full alignment by a reputable shop. Alignment seems fine, but my steering wheel is about 1-2 inches right of center when I am on the freeway. I don't notice quite as much in the city since I'm turning more. I have taken my 4R back three times to the shop to complain of this but they said the alignment is perfect and that there is nothing they can do.

I trust them, but I am not going back once again to have them center my steering wheel. I also don't want to take it to another shop and pay more.

So, simple question: if we can assume the alignment is fine, is it possible for me to simply straighten the steering wheel myself by adjusting the tie rods? Or is this much more complicated than that?

Thanks for any info...
 
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You have several things to deal with here. If in fact you trust this reputable shop. I assume this is a lifted truck. If so, here are your scenarios.

1. The steering wheel is only off center when you are in the left lane because of the crowning of the road. Your alignment is fine. You have to hold your steering wheel to the right to stay straight.

2. Your reputable shop does not know how to complete an alignment. Centering the steering wheel is a part of this process. It is also possible that their machine has not been calibrated recently. If they have an appropriate Hunter machine that is less than 10 years old, calibration is a piece of cake.

To actually answer your question, you can center your steering wheel by adjusting both tie rods. You'll have to be very meticulous with your measurements, as they need to be dead even left and right. Otherwise, you'll change your toe settings.

But in reality, you should determine which scenario you're dealing with. You should not have do your own steering wheel centering.

Do you have the alignment specs available?
 
The alignment job is NOT complete until the steering wheel is centered. This is like taking your car in to get the fender fixed and they give it back to you fixed but in primer and expect you to paint it to complete the job. Centering a steering wheel is pretty darn hard without the proper tools. Ask me how I know. They are amateurs if they can't center the wheel.
 
first two replies to your post purdy much covered it, take it back cuz they didnt finish the job.
If you are driving down a straight flat road it should be very centered, track straight, and not veer under hard braking or acceleration.
 
I had the same issue after I had my Bilsteins installed. Rather than take it back to the shop, wait, and hope they got it right the second time, I just adjusted the tie rod ends myself. It was a long process, and it took 3 adjustments to get it perfect. You will need two big wrenches, a 19mm and a 17mm (I think). Look at the linkage to determine which way to turn each one for the desired result, then turn the appropriate one clockwise and the other counter-clockwise exactly the same amount. Make small adjustments, like 1/4 turn, road test, and re-adjust as needed. That said, I totally agree that the shop should have done it right the first time!
 
Thank you all for the replies. It's funny because sometimes it's seems fine but then it stands out a little more on the freeway. Maybe I am just too picky. I might end up trying to do it myself, doesn't seem too difficult, it will just take some time.

And yes, I do have the Bilstein 5100s on all 4 corners and set at 1.75 in the front, so a leveling lift.

Here are the specs. Does this shed any light?

photo-2_zps8020756a.jpg~original
 
I had the same exact problem! I bought new tires, and got an alignment done at my local Toyota dealer under warranty. The steering wheel was immediately off-center about 15-20degree left. (most likely do to shoddy workmanship from the Tech, who said the alignment was fine to begin with and it was road crown pulling the vehicle. The numbers came back out of spec when they did it).

I thought alignment was good, as it drove straight, but steering wheel was off. It didn't warrant me taking a couple hours from my life to have it fixed immediately.

I brought it back to the dealer during my 5,000 mile service and complained about the alignment. They proceeded to tell me my steering wheel was way out of spec about 15-20 degrees. No CRAP I told them.

They then told me that it couldn't have been like that from them, and that I must have hit something big, like a curb or snowbank or a huge bump. I told them I did not hit anything and it was like that from the first alignment. They then pretty much call me a liar, and if I wanted it fixed, I would have to pay them $60 for an alignment. I pretty much told him to go to hell.

I ended up getting it aligned by a buddy for $20 cash. Problem solved.

I was pretty pissed off by my experience at the Toyota Dealer that day. I don't appreciate (indirectly) being called a liar. If I'm wrong, I'm the first to admit it.

Sorry for the venting. :gun5:
 
Your shop screwed up.

It's very easy to have the steering wheel straight when on the rack and then it have it drive cockeyed.

What the tech probably did was put it on the rack, put sensors on the wheels then go through the procedure of roll it back, roll it forward, steer left and steer right...then computer then tells them to center the wheel and install the brake application tool as well as the bit that hold the steering wheel straight--all with the vehicle off and never started. Why? Because a tech is only going to do what the computer tells him to do. Gone are the days of old-school mechanics who can diagnose etc.

What happens here is the steering wheel down to the box can have a bit of a "bind" to it...it looks fine on the rack but is cockeyed when driving. I'll explain more here in a bit.

I've done quite a few alignments and an old time guy showed me a little secret to getting the steering wheel perfect while driving by simply eliminating the "bind." It makes sense as back in the day the tolerances in steering boxes weren't like today's modern rack and pinions.

These steps I have used while using the newer laser alignment machines.

1. Vehicle on rack and OFF
2. Sensors on wheels installed perfectly and tight. Not absolutely perfect makes a difference.
3. Roll vehicle back
4. Roll vehicle forward
5. Turn steering wheel left and right as per computers instructions.
---Computer now says "Set steering wheel straight" and apply brake/steering wheel tool. Don't do this just yet.
6. Apply the tool that holds the brakes
7. Start vehicle and gently move steering wheel side to side to eliminate bind. Starting with 4-5" left/right motions and ending smaller and smaller. 99% of all alignment techs are not going to do this. Once it's centered perfectly, apply the steering wheel holder--tight--and shut off the vehicle.
8. After the adjustments have been made, jounce the suspension front and rear to eliminate any bind that could have been created. 99% of alignment techs aren't going to do this either. You will probably have the "perfect specs" fall out due to tiny amounts of bind than can be created.
9. Adjust to perfect and jounce again. This final time should have the specs return back to what they were, if not within .1 of what they were.
10. Double check tightness of all stop nuts etc. Check to ensure everything is still in spec.

Now you're done. I doing it this way, on a flat road, my steering wheel is perfectly level.

A slight crown dropping to the right (driving in right lane) , the wheel might be 1/2" to the left whereas a slight crown dropping to the left (driving in left lane) the wheel might be 1/2" right to compensate for the crown.

FWIW, back in the day (ex 1973-1987 Chevrolet trucks) you set the alignment specs, then went back to an adjustment sleeve and centered the steering wheel. Nowadays, it's exactly the opposite...set the steering wheel and adjust everything else around that.
 
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Wish I knew half of what you guys knew...

The consensus is that my shop screwed up or at least doesn't put enough thought/skill/time/whatever into doing an alignment.

I figured that I would try to fix it myself because if I screwed it up I'd have to pay for another alignment anyway, so I might as well try.

A 15mm and 22mm wrench later, I think I've gotten it fixed. It does take time and you have to take notes, but the hardest part is that I had to adjust, tighten everything back up and then test drive. I did that about 4 times. It wasn't that bad actually.

One thing I did was put blue tape on the bottom of my rig on each side next the tie rod. I then put an arrow on each pointing in opposite directions. That way I could make a change and say to myself "one turn in the direction of the arrow" or "one turn in the opposite direction of the arrow. That way I never lost where I was.

In my half-assed testing through my neighborhood I appear to have made it better. I will really know when I get out on the freeway but I didn't feel like doing that tonight.

I'll post back when I know more.
 
Wish I knew half of what you guys knew...

The consensus is that my shop screwed up or at least doesn't put enough thought/skill/time/whatever into doing an alignment.

I figured that I would try to fix it myself because if I screwed it up I'd have to pay for another alignment anyway, so I might as well try.

A 15mm and 22mm wrench later, I think I've gotten it fixed. It does take time and you have to take notes, but the hardest part is that I had to adjust, tighten everything back up and then test drive. I did that about 4 times. It wasn't that bad actually.

One thing I did was put blue tape on the bottom of my rig on each side next the tie rod. I then put an arrow on each pointing in opposite directions. That way I could make a change and say to myself "one turn in the direction of the arrow" or "one turn in the opposite direction of the arrow. That way I never lost where I was.

In my half-assed testing through my neighborhood I appear to have made it better. I will really know when I get out on the freeway but I didn't feel like doing that tonight.

I'll post back when I know more.

I'd be willing to bet cold hard cash that, althrough your steering wheel is now straight, your alignment specs (especially the toe in/out) are probably out of whack.

If you're going to leave as-is, keep an eye on the inside/outside edges of your front tires in the next 1000 miles. If your specs are out, you'll see and feel feathering.

If you start to notice any abnormal wear, get it fixed asap and put the feathered tires on the rear. Once abnormal wear on tires starts, it's hard to get them to wear correctly again. Putting the tires on the rear can help flatten them out as they won't be involved in "steering duty" for a while.
 
I woke and drove my 4R and got worried that I screwed something up, so instead of trying to figure it out, I found my best tool, my credit card, and went to another shop, one that I've used before and that doesn't mess around.

Good thing I did because they said my alignment was pretty bad, so whatever I did fixed the steering wheel but screwed up a bunch of other stuff.

Just drove it home through the city and on the freeway and now it's great. Not only feels better (tighter) but tracks better and the steering wheel is centered.

Lesson learned; let the pros do their job and use some of my hard earned money to pay them for it.

You guys were right, as always. Thanks for all the help!
 
Had this problem when stealership did aligment took it back 4 times and they always said it was fine nothing wrong. Took it to a local mechanic who fixed right away. Took bill to dealership and go reimbursement.
 
I woke and drove my 4R and got worried that I screwed something up, so instead of trying to figure it out, I found my best tool, my credit card, and went to another shop, one that I've used before and that doesn't mess around.

Good thing I did because they said my alignment was pretty bad, so whatever I did fixed the steering wheel but screwed up a bunch of other stuff.

Just drove it home through the city and on the freeway and now it's great. Not only feels better (tighter) but tracks better and the steering wheel is centered.

Lesson learned; let the pros do their job and use some of my hard earned money to pay them for it.

You guys were right, as always. Thanks for all the help!

I have been dealing with this same issue. I brought in the truck for an alignment. The steering wheel was slightly off centered to the left so I was sure an alignment would fix that... well I took it back three times to the same shop.

1st time: they said they were not aware the steering wheel was off centered.
2nd time: I told them it was off centered. They switched the two wheels around up front and said I needed new tires, that it was a torque thing.
3rd time: I said you have to perform the TSB procedure of adjusting both tierod ends and equal but opposite amount of times... they looked at me like i was an alien... They re-did the alignment and it got better but was still off.

I am not going back a 4th time. I'll try to adjust it myself or find a competent mechanic who can do the job right the first time.

I refuse to pay people to aggravate me.
 
I had the same issue after I had my Bilsteins installed. Rather than take it back to the shop, wait, and hope they got it right the second time, I just adjusted the tie rod ends myself. It was a long process, and it took 3 adjustments to get it perfect. You will need two big wrenches, a 19mm and a 17mm (I think). Look at the linkage to determine which way to turn each one for the desired result, then turn the appropriate one clockwise and the other counter-clockwise exactly the same amount. Make small adjustments, like 1/4 turn, road test, and re-adjust as needed. That said, I totally agree that the shop should have done it right the first time!

This description is spot on. It sounds like the tech rushed through and didn't bother to verify the steering wheel was centered. This why I do alignments myself in the garage with simple toe and camber gauges and get perfect results, I got tired of their lack of attention to detail/laziness. The tech messed up and they will/should fix it free of charge, you shouldn't have to waste your time due to their error. Good luck.
 
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Lucky for me know the guys & I sit in the seat & hold it while their adjusting . Always have to remind them that right caster is higher due to lift !
 
As previously posted, my steering wheel is off centered. It is not due to the road or tires. It's definitely with the wheel just being off centered. The alignment specs are fine. After two unsuccessful visits to the same incompetent alignment shop, I am looking for a fix.

Is it as simple as just unbolting the steering wheel, adjusting it to the right, and re-tightening as in this post?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/engin...essories/5984-woodgrain-steering-wheel-2.html

I am curious if its this simple. I'd rather do that than pay for another alignment at another shop and have them adjust the steering components.

Thanks.
 
As previously posted, my steering wheel is off centered. It is not due to the road or tires. It's definitely with the wheel just being off centered. The alignment specs are fine. After two unsuccessful visits to the same incompetent alignment shop, I am looking for a fix.

Is it as simple as just unbolting the steering wheel, adjusting it to the right, and re-tightening as in this post?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/engin...essories/5984-woodgrain-steering-wheel-2.html

I am curious if its this simple. I'd rather do that than pay for another alignment at another shop and have them adjust the steering components.

Thanks.
no, don't pull the wheel. the centering adjustment is made at the TRE's.
 

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