A plumbers propane torch. Heat the head of the hex cap bolt until it smokes. They try again. If you can get a monkey wrench on it, you may break it free quicker.
This sounds like a job for a torch as stated above.
Like I responded to [MENTION=78997]Drcoffee[/MENTION], I think the application of heat is a great idea to facilitate the removal of the plug. But, once the plug is stripped, you have to figure out a way to loosen the drain plug and the method we used is one of 3 I've heard that works.
Okay so what I did was to torch it, then used a chissel and hammer on the outer edge of the drain plug to rotate the plug. Then installed a new plug. $12.
You want all my secrets.
Also, when I bought the replacement drain plug from Toyota (PN# 90341-24014) the replacement DP is now a 10mm hex, to match the fill plug. So next time around I now only need one 10mm hex socket.
Why get a new plug, and go through all this again? Why not put back in your improved plug back in. I put my welded bolt plug back on. This plug design is not Toyota's crowning achievement in engineering. I did not want to go through all that hassle again. I had Intended on smearing some anitseize on the threads as well, but forgot.
It's not a secret anymore [MENTION=78997]Drcoffee[/MENTION]. A video will be coming out soon to a theatre near you mentioning your secret chisel and hammer technique.
You can try it, but quite sure it won't work.has anyone tried jb welding a hex socket on the drain plug? Stripped mine a couple of days ago during my long list of maintenance I’ve been doing. Was going to bug jb weld tomorrow and try it out.
The trick is to make sure the inside of the hex bolt is free of all debris and you use a good quality hex wrench that's the correct size.I am wondering if valve grinding compound or Vibra-Tite may help right out of the gate to keep the hex wrench from camming out?