Stripped Front Diff. Hex Drain Bolt

[thegipper]

I wouldn't pound on it too hard, you don't want to crack the housing. If you're going to keep trying with the extractor, nuke the housing around the plug with a torch first. You definitely need heat to break it free.

I had to weld a hex socket in the plug to get it off. At first, I just put a small tack weld on two sides of it but the welds broke on the first attempt. I then put a hefty weld on either side and it still took a decent amount of force to break it free even after all of the heat from welding.

I just reused the modified plug but did use a new washer. I doubt I'll even need to change the front diff fluid again since I hardly ever drive it.

 

[weekendclimber]

Dammit. Add me to the list too.

Stripped my front drain bolt on the diff. Saw where a guy on YouTube bought a Irwin 7/16 screw extractor to get the bolt out. I cannot get the extractor deep enough in the stripped bolt to be able to turn. Is it safe to keep hammering it down till the extractor is fully seated in?

That YT guy was probably me. You might consider drilling it out a little bit to get that extractor in there a little farther. For sure, you'll want to get a new plug. I think some have even replaced it with a different plug from a GS 350 AWD that has a hex on it. I've not done this myself, so can't confirm that they are the same thread pitch, but the parts are 90341-24016 drain and 90341-18060 fill.

 

[Joshv4runner]

That YT guy was probably me. You might consider drilling it out a little bit to get that extractor in there a little farther. For sure, you'll want to get a new plug. I think some have even replaced it with a different plug from a GS 350 AWD that has a hex on it. I've not done this myself, so can't confirm that they are the same thread pitch, but the parts are 90341-24016 drain and 90341-18060 fill.

Yep that was you! I enjoyed that video. Very informative.

Will try those part #s. Doing a quick google search and found this ... A Front Diff Drain Plug that Doesn’t Suck – ADVENTURE TACO

 

[weekendclimber]

Yep that was you! I enjoyed that video. Very informative.

Will try those part #s. Doing a quick google search and found this ... A Front Diff Drain Plug that Doesn’t Suck – ADVENTURE TACO

That's awesome! Thanks for the confirmation that this part number works. I'm going to get one! :guitar2:

 

[rexassian]

Awesome! I've been searching for a replacement, got it ordered. Thanks

 

[Joshv4runner]

Awesome! I've been searching for a replacement, got it ordered. Thanks

Do it man! I ordered mine!lane:

 

[snydmax]

Put me on the list! Kept us from pulling the cvs and rebooting this week during a TBU, master cylinder, UBJ party

I’m gonna try heat, it’s not totally stripped yet... stopped once we saw it happening... so hopefully heat and a new bolt will get us there.


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[Devbot]

Put me on the list! Kept us from pulling the cvs and rebooting this week during a TBU, master cylinder, UBJ party

I’m gonna try heat, it’s not totally stripped yet... stopped once we saw it happening... so hopefully heat and a new bolt will get us there.


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I used a T50 torx and a f*ck ton of heat to get mine out. Completely chewed up the bolt so a new one would be needed, but it worked much better than a standard 10mm hex

 

[snydmax]

Good to know, will be sure to have a t50 in hand.
The not so bad news... passenger wheel bearing was showing signs of needing replaced soon, now I can have the parts when we go back for another shot at the cv’s


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[Smog-guy707]

Went to change the diff fluid on my new to me 4runner and it was so badly rounded off that a 10mm did not grab it at all

Here what I did

Hit it with a chisel and a hammer at an angle and shocked it loose. Then it came out by hand.

Got a new drain plug from Toyota before hand

No heat. Easy enough for anyone to do if you just hit it at the correct angle


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[Devbot]

That YT guy was probably me. You might consider drilling it out a little bit to get that extractor in there a little farther. For sure, you'll want to get a new plug. I think some have even replaced it with a different plug from a GS 350 AWD that has a hex on it. I've not done this myself, so can't confirm that they are the same thread pitch, but the parts are 90341-24016 drain and 90341-18060 fill.

Any confirmation that 18060 works for a fill plug?

 

[3bears]

........... I've not done this myself, so can't confirm that they are the same thread pitch, but the parts are 90341-24016 drain and 90341-18060 fill.

yes an old thread....but since I have a stubborn drain plug...before I beat the crap out of it...can anyone confirm that these will work...if so gonna order before I do the work and switch to this style

and this is where the info comes from https://adventuretaco.com/a-front-diff-drain-fill-plug-that-doesnt-suck/

and I watched timmys video and he does not mention ....unless I missed it Stripped Differential Drain Plug Removal - YouTube

 

[cl4Rk]

Any confirmation that 18060 works for a fill plug?

can anyone confirm that these will work

I can confirm (because I have these installed on my truck):

- Front diff fill plug: Lexus PN 9034118060
- Front diff drain plug: Lexus PN 9034124016

 

[fatherohenry]

The first time I changed my fluids I ran into this with the front diff drain plug - only plug I had trouble with. Read all the posts I could find, bought a 24" breaker bar and some allen head sockets but still nothing. Bought a 12mm allen impact socket thinking my DeWalt 20v 1/2" would do it for sure but no luck. I've tried PB. I've tried heat - sat there with the torch while I smoked a full cigarette, but nothing. Toyota wants $180 to "take a look".

The torch I used was propane, from a plumbing job I'd done. Is that somehow not hot enough? I assume the next step is to find a welder in Sacramento. I get the impression heat is the key. Would the chisel method be pointless since my impact won't even work?

EDIT: I just jacked it up to give me more room and used the jack handle with my breaker bar. It moved a bit but only because it was beginning to strip the bolt. Ugh.

 

[Devbot]

The first time I changed my fluids I ran into this with the front diff drain plug - only plug I had trouble with. Read all the posts I could find, bought a 24" breaker bar and some allen head sockets but still nothing. Bought a 12mm allen impact socket thinking my DeWalt 20v 1/2" would do it for sure but no luck. I've tried PB. I've tried heat - sat there with the torch while I smoked a full cigarette, but nothing. Toyota wants $180 to "take a look".

The torch I used was propane, from a plumbing job I'd done. Is that somehow not hot enough? I assume the next step is to find a welder in Sacramento. I get the impression heat is the key. Would the chisel method be pointless since my impact won't even work?

EDIT: I just jacked it up to give me more room and used the jack handle with my breaker bar. It moved a bit but only because it was beginning to strip the bolt. Ugh.

Ironically yes, it may not be hot enough. Propane actually doesn't burn that hot, believe it or not - and I too didn't have any luck with my trusty green bottle until I swapped it out for a tank of oxygen. O2 burns WAY hotter than propane, so it might be worth a shot - remember, there's a lot of steel and a ton of oil inside that can absorb any heat you blast it with. If it's beginning to strip I'd use a torx bit if you can still get away with it (they bite good but can assist in stripping if you're careless) or perhaps seize the opportunity and grab an extractor bit before taking another shot. They're not horribly common for hardware stores to carry so you might have to order one online, but they're worth their weight in gold to have around.

 

[fatherohenry]

Ironically yes, it may not be hot enough. Propane actually doesn't burn that hot, believe it or not - and I too didn't have any luck with my trusty green bottle until I swapped it out for a tank of oxygen. O2 burns WAY hotter than propane, so it might be worth a shot - remember, there's a lot of steel and a ton of oil inside that can absorb any heat you blast it with. If it's beginning to strip I'd use a torx bit if you can still get away with it (they bite good but can assist in stripping if you're careless) or perhaps seize the opportunity and grab an extractor bit before taking another shot. They're not horribly common for hardware stores to carry so you might have to order one online, but they're worth their weight in gold to have around.

I was having doubts about it getting hot enough between the propane and all the gear oil on the other side of the plug. I've heard extractors mentioned but paid little mind since my bolt wasn't stripped yet. Guess I'll do some more searching and order one. What really bums me out is I was excited to use the new Lexus drain plug with the hex bolt head instead of the allen.

 

[Devbot]

I was having doubts about it getting hot enough between the propane and all the gear oil on the other side of the plug. I've heard extractors mentioned but paid little mind since my bolt wasn't stripped yet. Guess I'll do some more searching and order one. What really bums me out is I was excited to use the new Lexus drain plug with the hex bolt head instead of the allen.

Fwiw it took me two afternoons to get those plugs out and I ended up trashing both of them in the process, and I'm just as far from the salt belt as you. It's just a god awful design, but hey - at least we're not a jeep and held together with nothing but allen heads. Even the pumpkins on my CJ are secured with them :wacko:

 

[DirtDrift]

The chisel is truly the safest and easiest way to remove it. It's a chronic problem with Toyota's, all generations, and all models that have the large hex drain plug on the front diff. I've literally removed a hundred or more with a chisel during my time as a Toyota tech. An air hammer chisel is preferable, but make sure it's one with a long stroke that hits hard. On the outside edge of the drain plug, make a notch in the drain plug with the chisel at a direct angle pointing towards the center of the plug (just like the notches on a clock). Take the end of the chisel and place it in the notch while angling your air hammer about 45 degrees. Lightly, start with very little trigger pull, lightly hammer the plug until it starts to turn. Once it starts to turn, try using your hex socket again and it should come loose. The objective is not to damage diff housing or the threads on the diff. Regardless of how good you feel about re-using the drain plug, do not do it. Buy a new plug.

 

[mtbtim]

I have yet to have to resort to the chisel. I've been successful at getting a few drain plugs out just from the application of heat from a propane torch. So far I'm batting 1000 with the propane torch method. You heat up around the plug and try to break it free with a moderate amount of force. If it doesn't budge, you apply more heat and try again. You keep repeating this cycle until the plug breaks free.

The reason why it gets stuck has something to do with the bond of that copper washer with the plug. The just get really locked onto each other.

I would consider the chisel more as a last resort than the first thing to go to. The mistake people make is they don't use enough patience with the heating process and they apply too much force to the allen plug and start to strip it. When you get it heated enough, it should break free pretty easily with no longer than a 12 inch ratchet or breaker bar. If you're getting onto that allen plug with a 2 foot breaker bar and putting your weight into it, you're using way too much force and you're going to strip it out.