Stripped Front Diff. Hex Drain Bolt

josh.bunch

josh.bunch

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The title says it all. I started at the rear diff replacing all fluids with Amsoil Severe Gear Synthetic Oil. That went fine. Next was the transfer case, all well there too. Next I removed the skid plate to get to the front differential. I started with the fill bolt and it was a B!TCH to get loose with a 10mm wrench. I PB Blasted them both. I went for the drain bolt next and it was even more of a booger. Eventually I thought I got it loose but turns out I stripped the bad boy.

If i put the hex wrench in there and hit it with a hammer I can still catch the threads a little bit. Im on my way to the dealer to get a replacement bolt. In the mean time...How do I get the stripped bolt out?

I soaked again in PB Blaster and will do again before I go to bed and in the morning. Any tools, techniques, or advice will be heralded. Thanks...

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I wouldn't go beating on it.. It may work, but at the same time it may do more damage. Probably your best bet would be to just weld a nut onto the bolt and then try to loosen it. It that doesn't work, then your forced into beating and banging on it OR just say F it, rig up a pump and just pump the fluid out the other hole.
 
I did something very similar with my motorcycle and drain bolt for the oil pan. Here are some tips that might help you get it out.

First thing is don't try to force it out, it will only strip the bolt further and make it harder. You need to ease it out. I am guessing the bolt is made of some soft aluminum and is just stuck. Spray the heck out of it with some PB Blaster or something similar. Get a hex nut that is one size larger than the 10mm. Don't use a hex key, use an actual hex drive with a socket, works way better. I used a hammer and had to "punch" the larger hex socket in using a hammer. It wedged itself nicely and I was able to break it free that way. It wedged itself in so nicely that I couldn't get the hex socket out after wards. Small price to pay to get to removed.

Remember, once you have that socket wedged in there to ease it free. Don't pound or force it to much. If that method doesn't work get a 10mm socket and JB Weld or weld the socket in there.

Both methods cost you a socket but better than having a stripped drain plug.
 
Welding a nut to it usually will put enough heat to it to break it loose. I've never had the drain plug get me, but it seems that I almost always have to weld a nut to the damn fill plug.
 
That is a 12mm hex if I remember correctly. I had to buy a 12mm hex key, cut it with an abrasive saw then place it in my 12mm 6-point socket.

Even with a perfect fit, and perfect angle, with a nice big 1/2" ratchet... IT STRIPPED. I just said F-it and left it.

I may try the pump method. Sounds easy enough... haha.
 
Had similar thing happen to my filler plug. I said screw it and took it to my local mechanic and he got it off for me free of charge. I bet if you have a small town place to go to, they will do they same.
 
take a chisel and a hammer and notch the side of the plug and then hammer the notch to bust it open i had the same problem we tried everything and only this worked, use it as a last resort tho
 
This may sound a little extreme.
If you can get enough of a bite with the wrench. Hit it with an impact wrench. Alternate short bursts from loosen then tighten and repeat.
 
that is a living nightmare. thanks for the reminder to self to spray a lubricant on bolts before attempting.
 
Thanks for all the reply's. I think I'll try the chisel method first and if all else fails I'll weld a socket on it and get it that way.

The way it finally stripped it was when I gently tapped in the wrench with a hammer to make sure it was all the way in there and then put my jack under it to make the SOB move. It moved but not the way I intended.

I can't try this til Saturday/Sunday bc the dealership didn't have this part in stock. They ordered it but it will not arrive until Saturday. I'll be sure to let you know how it turns out.
 
Baja Runner said:
That is a 12mm hex if I remember correctly. I had to buy a 12mm hex key, cut it with an abrasive saw then place it in my 12mm 6-point socket.

Even with a perfect fit, and perfect angle, with a nice big 1/2" ratchet... IT STRIPPED. I just said F-it and left it.

I may try the pump method. Sounds easy enough... haha.
Click to expand...

I heard some of them were 12mm too while reading up on this but mine is definintley 10mm. The 12mm hex wouldn't find and the 10mm fit like a glove.

I don't know why they didn't make these a 24mm bolt like on the rear diff and transfer case. That's much to easy I guess.
 
yep one of toyota's many dumb ideas couldn't make it with a bolt head or one where it just takes a 3/8'' ratchet
 
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oh well ,looks like you should just buy a new diff with a locker and 4.88 gears, hehehe j/k

good luck man, there's not much else to do beside do what others suggested.

hammer a hex socket bit in there and back it out, then try heat, then just weld the hex socket in there, beyond that it's the same as any suck bolt, for bad for man, i hate it when it goes down like this, you thinking 20 min job and im done, next thing you know 3 days later because of a stuck bolt....not fun..best of luck!
 
I had the same thing happen as well, ended up getting it out with an impact after hammering the bit in there. Thankfully, the replacement from Toyota was a bolt head, so it shouldn't happen again.
 
IanB said:
I had the same thing happen as well, ended up getting it out with an impact after hammering the bit in there. Thankfully, the replacement from Toyota was a bolt head, so it shouldn't happen again.
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I bought a new one too and it was hex just like the old one. Wonder why we got different things...
 
Nelsonmd said:
I bought a new one too and it was hex just like the old one. Wonder why we got different things...
Click to expand...

Now you've got me 2nd guessing myself, it actually may have been another hex, but a 10mm instead of the 12mm that was stock (and took forever to find a set with a 12mm hex in it). Good catch, it was different than what was stock though.
 
That front diff is an absolute pain. I do it every year and have nothing good to say about either bolt. This year I am going to put it on stands so I can pull down on the breaker bar with more leverage, What in the world is the rational for hex bolts on that? Something you could use a good socket on would be vastly superior
 
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